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HANDY GUIDE 

TO THE 

Southeastern States 




INCLUDING 



FLORIDA 

GEORGIA,rHs CAROLINAS 
#/yF GULr COAST 



I RAND, McNALLY & COMPANY, Publishers. 



Sk I Seaboard Air Line 
■ ■■■ ■■■ BETWEEN THE 

-" South 




o 

U d 
(Oi 



U 

X 
I- 



Choice of Routes 



E. St. John, H. W. B. Glover, T. J. Anderson, 

Vice Pres't. Traffic Manager. Gen'l Pass'r A^. 

GENERAL OFFICES. PORTSMOUTH, VA. 



5? 

, -I 

oz 

(/)0 , 



Plant S ystem 



PERFECT 

PASSENGER 

SERVICE 



REACHING MOST 
IMPORTANT POINTS IN 



Alabama, Florida, 

South Carolina, Cuba, and 
Georgia, Nova Scotia 




THE THREE GREAT FLORIDA WEST COAST HOTELS 

OWNED AND OPERATED BY THE PLANT SYSTEM. 

Literature on Florida and Cuba mailed on application. 

B. W. WRENN, 

Passenger Traffic Manager, 

SAVANNAH, GA, 



-^THE OXFORD^ 



.WASHINGTON, D. C, 



and Ncw?ork*Ayt:N.W. H. P. MARSHALL & CO., PrOpS. 




EUROPEAN plan: ROOMS $1.00 PER DAY AND UPWARDS. 
AMERICAN plan: $2.50 PER DAY AND UPWARDS. 



The most centrally located and liberally managed hotel in the city. 

This Hotel has recently been thoroughly renovated and refitted; is centrally 
located, but one square from the United States Treasury, two squares from the 
White House, and exceedingly convenient and accessible to the business and 
shopping part of the city, depots, and steamboat landings, and also all the 
Government Buildings, by three lines of street cars passing the door. 



H. P. MARSHALL & CO., Proprietors. 



: Hotel Vendome ^ 




Pennsylvania Ave., 

^ orner Third Street, N. 



W. 



WASHINGTON, D. C. 



The central location of this new hotel, directly opposite the 
Government's beautiful Botanical Gardens, and about midway be- 
tween the two railroad stations, makes it especially desirable for 
permanent or transient visitors to Washington. From it all public 
buildings and points of interest are conveniently accessible. 

It is fully equipped with the latest appliances, including an 
electric elevator, steam heat, electric lighting, improved fire escapes, 
etc. The interior decorations and furniture are of the newest 
designs, and its cuisine is tmsurpassed, " 

It is conducted upon both American and European plans, and 
our prices have been arranged to conform to the times. 

AMERICAN plan: 

$2.00 to $3.00 Per Day. 

EUROPEAN plan: 

$1.00 Per Day and Upward. 
ROBERT P. EMERSON. 



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opposite i^^y^ YORK 



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European Plan. 

Rooms $i per Day and Upward. 



In a modest and unobtrusive way there 
are few better conducted hotels in the 
metropolis than the St. Denis. 

The great popularity it has acquired 
can readily be traced to its unique 
location, its homelike atmosphere, the 
peculiar excellence of its cuisine and 
service, and its very moderate prices. 

WILLIAM TAYLOR & SON. 



Rand, McNally & Co.'s 
HANDY GUIDE 

TO THE 

Southeastern States 



INCLUDING 

if-, u 
>X FLORIDA 

GEORGIA, THE CAROLINAS, AND 
THE GULF COAST. 



WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. 




CHICAGO ANTTWEW YORK: 
Rand, McNally & Company, Publishers. 

1896. 



WHEN IN NEW YORK 



STOP AT THE 



WESTMINSTER 
HOTEL 

SIXTEENTH STREET AND IRVING PLACE 

(one block east of union square.) 




SITUATED IN THE HEART OF THE SHOPPING AND AMUSE- 
MENT DISTRICTS, ONLY ONE BLOCK FROM BROADWAY 
AT UNION SQUARE, IN THE QUIET, ARISTOCRATIC 
NEIGHBORHOOD OF GRAMERCY PARK. 

"a HOTEL OF ESTABLISHED REPUTATION, WITH A CUISINE OF 
NOTED EXCELLENCE. UNDER LIBERAL MANAGEMENT." 

AMERICAN PLAN. 

RATES FROM $3.50 PER DAY UPWARD. 

E. N. ANABLE, Proprietor. 



Copyright, 1895, by Rand, McNally & Co. 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES 7 

Route i.— Clyde Line, New York to Charleston and Florida 7 

The City of Charleston lo 

Railways out of Charleston; Summerville 14 

Clyde Line Steamships, Charleston to Jacksonville 15 

Route 2.— Ocean Steamship Line to Savannah 17 

Railroad Routes from Savannah 21 

ROUTE 3.— Mallory Lines to Florida and Texas *... 22 

Route 4.— Brunswick to Fernandma, through the Sounds... '.. 26 

Route 5.— Cromwell Line to New Orleans 30 

ROUTE 6.— Boston, Providence, and Baltimore to the South 30 

Route 7.— Old Dominion Line, New York to Norfolk 31 

Route 8.— " Bay Line " Route, Baltimore and Norfolk 35 

Route 9.— Washington and Norfolk steamboats 36 

RAILROAD ROUTES EAST OF THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS 37 

Route 10.— Cape Charles Route to Norfolk 37 

Route h. — Routes from Norfolk or Portsinouth 37 

Route 12.— Seaboard Air Line 40 

Route 12a.— Raleigh to Greensboro 42 

Route 13. — Atlantic Coast Line 43 

Route 13a.— To Goldsboro and Wilmington; Wilmington 44 

Wilson to Florence, S. C 46 

Route 13b. — Florence to Augusta, Atlanta, and Macon.. 46 

Florence to Jacksonville and New Orleans,. 40 

Route 13c.— To Beaufort and Port Royal 49 

Route 13d. — Waycross to Jacksonville 51 

Route 136.— Waycross to Montgomery, etc 51 

Route 14. — New Florida Short Line 53 

Route 15.— Southern Railway, Piedmont Air Line 55 

Route 15a.— Salisbury to Asheville and Morristown 59 

Salisbury to Atlanta 66 

Route 16.— The Shenandoah Valley Route 70 

Hagerstown to Roanoke .. 70 

Crab-tree Falls and the Natural Bridge 75 

Route i6a.— Norfolk to Roanoke. 77 

Roanoke to Bristol, Tenn 79 

Bristol to Chattanooga 80 

WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES 86 

Through Routes from Chicago and St. Louis to Florida and 

New Orleans... 86 

A Sketch of the Civil War in the West 86 

Route 17.— Jellico Route 91 

Route 18.— Queen & Crescent Line to Chattanooga 92 

Route 19.— Lookout Mountain Route 93 

Route 20.— Memphis to Chattanooga 96 

Chattanooga, Chickamauga, and Lookout Mountain 100 

The Chattanooga Campaign of 1863 106 

Missionary Ridge and Chickamauga Park no 

(3) 



4 CONTENTS. 

PAGE 
RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM CHATTANOOGA 113 

Route 21.— Chattanooga to Savannah 113 

Sherman's Atlanta Campaign 115 

The City of Atlanta 119 

Railroads at Atlanta 121 

Sherman's March to the Sea 124 

■ Route 22.— Southern Railway, Chattanooga to Brunswick, Ga 125 

Route 23. — Suwannee River or Tifton Route _ - 128 

Route 24.— Atlanta to Birmingham, Memphis, and Greenville, Miss. 129 

Route 25.— Atlanta to New Orleans 130 

Route 26.— Chattanooga to Central Alabama 130 

FLORIDA - -- 133 

Jacksonville and the St. Johns River 133 

The City of Jacksonville. 133 

The St. Jolins River. 139 

The East Coast of Florida 152 

Jacksonville to St. Augustine 152 

History of St. Augustine . 153 

Places of Interest in St. Augustine 160 

St. Augustine to Bay Biscayne 171 

South Florida 185 

The Tampa District 195 

The Florida Keys and Cuba 199 

The Pinellas Peninsula 201 

The Lake District 206 

Jacksonville to Cedar Keys 211 

Suwannee Valley and West Florida 213 

ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST..... 220 

Route 27.— Queen & Crescent Line, Chattanooga to New Orleans and 

Shreveport 220 

Route 28.— Louisville & Nashville Railroad to Mobile and New Orleans 224 

The Battle of Nashville 225 

Louisville & Nashville Route , 228 

Route 29.— Mobile & Ohio Railroad 236 

Route 30.— Illinois Central Railroad, Chicago and St. Louis to New 

Orleans 238 

Route 31.— Yazoo Route 241 

Route 32.— Kansas City and Memphis to Florida 242 



A PREFATORY NOTE. 



This volume, of the series of Rand, McNally & Co.'s American 
guide books, deals with the southeastern part of the United States, 
ifrom Virginia and Tennessee to the Mississippi River, with especial 
attention to Florida. This is a region not only of great industrial 
and social attractiveness and of constantly increasing prosperity, but 
having a climate, and the means for health and pleasure, which 
induce a large and steadily enlarging migration from the North in 
winter. To its mountainous northern borders, on the other hand, 
the citizens of towns upon the coast and lowlands resort in summer 
to escape the heat, or to renew their health at the springs that 
abound along the Blue Ridge and Alleghanian ranges. 

The editor has considered this region by following its main 
through lines of transportation, first — for convenience sake — the 
ocean routes between the Northern and Southern seaports, and then 
the inland routes, proceeding from east to west. He has endeavored 
to describe the most noteworthy features of scener)^ industries, sport, 
and history along each of these lines, succinctly, accurately, and 
impartially, and by cross-references back and forth to complete the 
account of every district without needless repetition. As the wants 
of the pleasure traveler and health seeker have been especially in 
view, the most attention has been paid to places w^hither such 
travelers resort for amusement or benefit, and care has been taken 
to present them in the most candid and helpful light, saying little or 
nothing about that which is deemed worth little attention. Certain 
places or objects of particular importance or interest have been 
noted in black-faced type, and those of less importance in italics. A 
similar custom has been followed in regard to hotels, and here the 
editor has been very careful, preferring to err upon the safe side, if at 
all. The rates given for hotels are the lowest terms by the day. In 
all the larger hotels superior accommodations by the day would 
cost more, but everywhere cheaper terms may be made by the week 
or month. 

No attempt has been made to give the running time of railroad 
trains or steamboats, for which local time tables must be consulted. 

It is, perhaps, needless to add that nothing herein has been 
written or paid for as a disguised advertisement; but the attention 
of readers is called to the proper advertisements accompanying the 
text, which contain additional information as to several excellent 
routes of travel and places of entertainment. 



(5) 



T HE SHOREHAM , Washington, D. C 

American and European Plans. 



ABSOLUTELY FIREPROOF. 




Within five minutes' walk of the Executive Mansion, Treasur}/ 
War, Navy, and State Departments. 

JOHN T. DEVINE. 



I. 

OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 



Route 1.— Clyde Line, New York to Charleston and 

Florida. 

The great ocean steamships of the Clyde Steamship Company 
nake trips thrice a week in winter, and twice a week in summer, 
oetween New York and Jacksonville, Fla. , calling at Charleston, S. C. 
The fleet consists of the "Algonquin," "Iroquois," "Comanche," 
Cherokee," " Seminole," " Yemassee," and " Delaware." The three 
first named are the largest and finest. All are fitted with every mod- 
ern improvement, electric lights and bells, bath-rooms, and smoking- 
i-ooms. There is a plentiful amount of deck-rooni and an unusual 
capacity of inclosed saloons, so that the voyage can be made under 
the most pleasant circumstances. All first-class tickets include berth 
knd meals, and the table is admirably supplied. Second-cabin (or 
intermediate) and steerage accommodations are also provided at 
reduced rates. The steamers leave New York (Monday, Wednesday, 
Friday, 3.00 p. m.) from Pier 29, East River, under the Brooklyn 
Bridge (Franklin Sq. station. El. Ry.), and reach Charleston (600 m.) 
in about fifty hours, and Jacksonville twenty-four to twenty-eight 
hours later. Returning steamers leave Jacksonville twice a week 
(Sunday, Thursday) in summer, and tri-weekly (Sunday, Tuesday, 
Thursday) in winter, at high tide. They stop at Charleston several 
hours on the next morning, and usually reach New York late in the 
evening of the second succeeding day. Through tickets are sold 
from New York and New England cities to all points in the South 
and Southwest, and round-trip tickets at a reduced rate. 

The Voyage begins with the passage down New York harbor 
to The Narrows, where the Staten Island shore, with Fort Wads- 
worth on the right, and the shore of South Brooklyn, with Fort 

cn 



8 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

Hamilton on the left, approach one another and separate the Upper 
from the Lower Bay. 

The round, brown fort in the water on the left of The Narrows 
is Fort Lafayette, built in 1812, and famous as a military prison 
during the Civil War. As the expanse of the Lower Bay spreads 
right and left, the long row of hotels and amusement places of 
South Beach is seen on the Staten Island shore, and on the left 
the houses of the Gravesend and Bath Beach shores. The two 
small islands ahead are devoted to quarantine patients treated for 
contagious diseases, and far beyond is seen the shore of New 
Jersey. The course sweeps slowly to the left until the open ocean 
becomes visible, and the ship passes out past Sandy Hook, with 
the pleasure villages of Coney Island, Brighton, and Manhattan 
beaches in plain view on the left. Steering outside of Scotland 
lightship, near w^here the international yacht races are run, the 
prow is pointed" south , and all the evening the passenger is amused 
by the brilliantly lighted New Jersey shore, from Long Branch 
down past Asbury Park, almost to Barnegat. In the morning the 
ship is out of sight of land and headed for Cape Hatteras, whose 
lighthouse and low shore are sighted at dusk. Glimpses are 
caught next day of the Carolina coast, the lighthouses at Cape 
Lookout (entrance to New Berne, N. C.), and Cape Fear (near 
Wilmington, N. C), and, if circumstances and the tide are favor- 
able, the bar off Charleston harbor is reached in time to croPS it and 
make a safe trip up the tortuous channel to the city before dark; 
otherwise the ship anchors until daylight. 

Charleston Harbor. — The steamer follows carefully the excavated 
passage through the dangerous bar, nineteen feet deep at mean high 
tide, between the stone jetties that reach out from the shores, and, by 
directing the tidal currents, help to keep the channel clear from shifting 
sands and silt. The shore on the right (north) is Sullivan's Island, 
and is dotted with summer residences, hotels, and bathing places, 
forming farther westward the village of Moultrieville. The southern 
shore is formed by the sand dunes of Moi-ris Island. Here the Con- 
federate troops, during the Civil War, erected batteries and fortifica- 
tions, notably Fort Wagner, just south of the jetty on the left, and 
Battery Gregg, opposite Fort Sumter, from which they were driven- 
during the summer of 1863 by the Federal soldiers. But Sullivan's 
Island has had quite as lively a history. A palmetto fort, styled 
Sullivan, on the western end of the island, was attacked by Clinton's 
troops in 1776 with no success, as the spongy palmetto wood resisted 
the cannon-balls. The fort was afterward rebuilt in more formal 
style, named after Col. William Moultrie, who had commanded it at the 
battle, and was garrisoned until the hostilities of i860; this Fort Moul- 



OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 9 

trie now appears on the right, amid clustering white houses, as a low, 
red wall partly hidden by gleaming sand dunes. The voyager should 
next turn his attention to Fort Sumter, a short distance ahead on 
the left. This famous fortress, where the first shot at the country's 
flag was fired by the Secessionists of 1861 , is founded ujDon an artificial 
island, composed of rocks mainly brought from the North as ballast 
in cotton ships. In 1846 the foundations were barely above the water, 
land at the beginning of the Civil War the brick walls, 40 feet high 
land 8 feet thick, were scarcely completed. At present, turf -covered 
j earthworks round up from the salient angles of the walls, which 
have been rebuilt, but only a few guns peer from between them. 
One of these elevations bears a lighthouse, and another the keeper's 
cottage, but there is no garrison. 

Maj. Robert Anderson was in charge of the Charleston defenses 
in i860, and had made repeated requests to Congress for their proper 
Irenewal, but they were unheeded; and hearing the threats of seces- 
sion at Charleston, he spiked the guns of Fort Moultrie and secretly 
j moved his garrison to the stronger fortress. Fort Sumter. The steamer 
'"Star of the West," sent to reinforce Fort Sumter, was driven back 
by the batteries on Morris Island, which had been promptly erected 
by Charlestonians after Anderson's change of base, and from Fort 
Moultrie, then in the hands of the Confederates. Anderson consid- 
ered this firing at a vessel bearing the United vStates flag an act of 
war, and was much angered by it, but was obliged by his orders 
from the War Department to refrain from replying to the shots, and 
from preventing the erection of battery after battery around his posi^ 
tion. Several States were hovering on the edge of secession, and it 
was decided by those which had already thrown themselves out of 
the Union, to conclude matters by subduing Fort Sumter, whose 
commander had pluckily refused to surrender his force. At last, 
hearing that two ships were trying to cross the bar in order to aid it, 
firing was commenced from the Confederate batteries, which con- 
tinued until the fort was nearly demolished, and the garrison, almost 
starved out, but not seriously injured by the bombardment, was com- 
pelled to evacuate the fort (April 14, 1861), and was permitted to sail 
for New York, carrying the flag with them. The War of Secession 
broke out instantly, and the Confederates occupied the fort until it 
was further knocked to pieces (1863) by Gillmore's volleys. 

Beyond Sumter, a long point reaches out from James Island, on 
the south, terminating in an old earthwork (Fort Johnston) now 
occupied by the quarantine station. This point was fortified in 
early Colonial times, and its officer had a royal commission to stop all 
vessels upon which he suspected dangerous diseases. It was the 
office and store yard of the engineers who built Fort Sumter, and 
later formed a part of the Confederate works. Opposite it, on the 
northern shore, and nearer the city, a point of the mainland juts 



10 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

out, with the village of Mount Pleasant, and a little beyond it is 
Shute's Folly Island, the site of Castle Pinckney, a circular brick 
Revolutionary fort, the top of which is in ruins, and which is partly 
hidden by small houses. One can now see distinctly the foremost 
houses of the city, the graceful steeples of St. Michael's and St. 
Philip's churches, and at the right the noble Custom House of white 
marble, like a symmetrical Roman-Corinthian temple, that dominates 
the shore line. 

Excursions About the Harbor. — A steamer plies between Charles- 
ton and Sullivan's Island several times a day, stopping at Fort Sum- 
ter, Moultrie ville, and Mount Pleasant, the latter being summer- 
resorts and bathing-places on the north shore of the bay. In winter 
steamboats furnish regular transportation to Magnolia Gardens, a 
few miles above Charleston on Ashley River. These gardens, the 
ancient home of the Drayton family, are noted for their live oaks, 
loaded with trailing moss {Tzllandsia, which is not a true moss, in 
any sense of the word, but is an epiphytic member of the pineapple 
family), several being so large that seven persons can barely encircle 
each tree with outstretched arms. But the gardens are still more 
renowned for their gigantic camellia trees, and for the masses of 
azaleas of every tint, the bushes being often twenty-five feet 
through, that blaze along the walks. Ashley Hill, the home of Com- 
modore Gillam, a naval hero of the Revolution, is between the gar- 
dens and the city; and above them are many places of great roman- 
tic and historical interest, mentioned as near Summerville (p. 14), 
a pleasure resort (22 m. north by rail). 

The City of Charleston. 

Situation and History. — The city of Charleston (pop., 55,000; 
Charleston Hotel, special rates; St. Charles, $3; Osceola, $2; New 
Pavilion, $1.50) is the largest city in South Carolina, and one of 
the most important seaports of the Southern coast. It occupies a pen- 
insula lying nearly north and south between Cooper River, on the 
east, and Ashley River, on the west, which join to form the harbor. 

English colonists, coming from Port Royal, started a settlement on 
Ashley River in 1670, but 1680 found them in their present situation, 
on what was then called Oyster Point. The new town was named in 
honor of Charles II. By 1690 a number of Huguenots had joined the 
colony, and subsequent arrivals from other nations swelled their num- 
bers. The Charlestonians flourished and repelled a combined attack 
of Spanish and French in 1706, one by Sir Henry Clinton and Sir \ 
Peter Parker in 1776, and another by General Prevost three years 
later, but the place was finally captured by Clinton in 1780, only to be 
evacuated by the British troops in 1782. 

Charleston has always been proud of the fact that it was never 
taken during the Civil War. The federal Admiral Dupont tried 



The South Carolina 



& Georgia Railroad 




IS THE 

SHORTEST AND QUICKEST 

ROUTE BETWEEN 



CHARLESTON 



and 



Atlanta 



Spartanburg, Saluda, Hendersonville, Hot Springs 
(N. C), Walhalla, Waterloo, Weavers, Shelby, 
Tryon, Flat Rock, Asheville, Greenville, Seneca, 
Marion, Rutherfordton, Blacksburg, Chattanooga, 
New Orleans, St. Louis, Cincinnati, Marietta, 
Montgomery, Nashville, Chicago, Kansas City. 

DO\JBL.E BETWEEN 

T-xTT-TT v> Augusta, Charleston, 

^ Columbia, Aiken, and 

TRHINS Summerville. 



The only Southern Line operating 

WAGNER PALACE, BUFFET SLEEPING, and 

DRAWING-ROOM CARS. 

L. A. EMERSON, Traffic Manager. 



OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 11 

to pass the batteries at the entrance to the harbor (1863), but the mon- 
itor " Weehawken," leading the fleet, got entangled among the 
obstructions scattered about the channel, became a target for the 
enemy's batteries, and after some hard fighting the fleet was with- 
drawn by Dupont, the " Keokuk " afterward sinking in an inlet. 

Capture of the Charleston Forts. — Gen. Q. A. Gillmore was 
assigned to the command of the National Department of the South 
(June, 1S63), and devised a plan for using land forces to sub- 
due Fort Wagner while the monitors attacked Sumter. A masked 
battery w^as erected on Folly Island south of Morris Island. 
Dupont, who had prevented the Confederates from further for- 
tification of Morris Island, was superseded by Admiral Dahlgren. 
When all was prepared, several military excursions were made 
inland to divert the attention of the Charlestonians, and on July 
13, 1863, a strong force crossed the channel between Folly and 
Morris islands before dawn, and captured the powerful outworks on 
the southern end of the latter. At the same time the masked bat- 
teries began to speak, and Dahlgren and Gillmore bombarded Fort 
Wagner effectively, but repeated assaults failed to take it. The 
young Colonel Shaw was killed in this fight, and buried with con- 
tempt by the garrison in a trench beneath the dead of the colored 
regiment he had commanded. Finally Gillmore settled down to a siege 
of the forts. A 200-pound Parrott gun, the "swamp angel," was 
placed on piles in a marsh between Morris and James islands, and 
(August 17th) another attack was made on the various forts, which 
resulted in their evacuation. Sumter was knocked to pieces, and 
Gillmore occasionally bombarded Charleston, until nearly the end of 
the year, but as no fleet appeared to take possession of the city, which 
was no longer of any strategic importance, he ceased his cannonade. 
On February 18, 1865, the Confederate commander at Charleston, 
hearing of Sherman's capture of Columbia, fired all the public property 
and withdrew from the city. The next da}^ Gillmore's troops raised 
the national flag over Fort Sumter, and the city was surrendered. 
The fire, which had become a dangerous conflagration, was quickly 
put out by the Federals and negroes, and Charleston was placed 
under martial law. 

Streets and Objects of Interest. — Charleston is laid out in square 
blocks of considerable regularity, the cross streets extending from 
river to river, and the longer streets running at right angles to them. 
The commercial side of the city is the eastern, facing the harbor and 
Cooper River; and the steamer landings are near the lower end of 
the water front, midway between the custom house and the Battery; 
the Union railroad station is in the northeastern part of the city, 
about one mile from the Battery. Horse-cars connect these landing 
places with all parts of the town. The principal cross street is Broad, 



13 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

which stretches across the peninsula about one-third mile above its 
southern extremity. It terminates east at Bay Street, which extends 
along the harbor front in the rear of the wharves, and is principally 
devoted to commercial offices and the wholesale trade. The southern 
extremity of Bay Street forms the Battery, which was the site of the 
colonial fortifications of the city, and also of guns erected during the 
Civil War. It is now bounded by a broad sea wall which forms a 
favorite promenade looking out upon the magnificent harbor. 

The lower end of the sea wall terminates in the Battery, or White 
Point Garden, a public park facing Ashley River shaded by live oaks 
and palms, and traversed by white shell paths, along which seats are 
placed. A statue of a Continental soldier in the peculiar uniform of 
the Carolina troops, erected in memory of the militiamen who died 
during the Revolution in defense of Fort Moultrie; a bronze bust of 
Wm. Gillmore Simms, the novelist and poet (i 806-1 870), and a round 
tower, composed of blocks of phosphate, a mineral fertilizer and one 
of the most valuable products of the State, ornament this pleasant 
park which was known of old as " White Point." 

Skirting the Battery, and occupying the old narrow streets north- 
ward to Broad, are grouped the most magnificent as well as the 
quaintest of Charleston's houses, some new homes shouldering the 
simple but large buildings that have survived bombardment, cyclone, 
and earthquake. 

These older houses all stand with their ends to the street, the wall 
rising abruptly from the narrow sidewalk, thus securing a sunny 
exposure, and, at the same time, a considerable privacy for the wide 
galleries that rise to the eaves and look out upon the garden that 
separates each house from its neighbor. "Because of this method 
of building, the entrances, which, without knowing better, we would 
take to be the front doors, in reahty admit the members of each 
household either to the end of the lower porch or into the garden,_the 
true main doorway being on the side of the house." These spacious 
gardens between the houses give this part of Charleston a peculiarly 
charming effect, sunny glimpses of masses of brilliant flowers 
constantly attracting the glance through the ornamental iron gates 
in old brick walls or dense hedges. Trees of crepe myrtle, loaded 
with gay pink flowers, lean over the tops of the walls, and the heads 
of palms, fig-trees, and bananas occasionally appear, while rose vines 
climb to the eaves of the piazzas. A remarkable example of such a 
garden can be seen on Legare Street, at the house originally built 
by George Edwards, who had his initials wrought into the curved 
iron railings about his door. Another wilderness of trees and plants 
covers the graves in St. MichaeVs churchyard. This noted and 
interesting church stands at the corner of Broad and Meeting streets, 
a white stuccoed building of good Colonial architecture. It was 



OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 13 

built in 1752 and suffered severely during the various catastrophes 
that have befallen the city, but has recently been repaired without 
change of its original form. The old square pews remain, and one 
by the central aisle is preserved just as it was when Washington 
listened to a service there. A custodian tells how cannon-balls came 
through the chancel window and under the altar — cannon-balls sent" 
from the throat of the " swamp angel " hidden in the pines during 
the siege of Charleston; and how the walls were cracked, the steeple 
turned half way around, and the floor torn up by the earthquake in 
1886. The sweet-toned bells, that chime from the steeple, have had 
a varied history and many travels. St. Philip's Church, like St. 
Michael's, Episcopal, " has the third building in which the congrega- 
tion has worshiped, but it copies the second one destroyed in 1835." 
There is a true story of a slave lad having climbed the steeple of St. 
Philip's to put out a fire, and being set free by his master as a 
reward. Its churchyard contains the grave of John C. Calhoun. 
Another interesting church is that of the old Huguenot congregation. 

St. Michael's Church is on the southeast corner of Broad and Meet- 
ing streets, which may be considered the social center of the city. 
Diagonally opposite is the County Court House, and on the north- 
east corner the City Hall, partly surrounded by Washington Park, 
which contains a granite obelisk erected to the memory of the men 
of the South Carolina Light Infantry w^ho were slain in those battles 
of the Civil War noted on its base; and a statue of that great English 
friend of the colonists, William Pitt. A short distance below, on 
Broad Stveet,isth.e P til? tic Library (founded in 1748), rich in old- 
fashioned books and curious documents, as well as in modern works, 
and supplied with a good reading-room. Street-cars run north on 
Meeting Street to the railway station and upper parts of the city. 
Next west of Meeting Street, and parallel, is King Street, where are 
the principal retail shops, hotels, and restaurants. Street-cars run 
upon it from the Battery to the northern suburbs. By taking these 
cars to the northern end of the line, or the green cars on East Bay 
Street, and changing to a suburban line at the terminus, one may 
ride five miles into the country and return for 20 cents. 

Magnolia Cemetery, three miles north of the City Hall (street-cars 
so labeled, 10 cents), should be visited on account of its rich semi- 
tropical vegetation. 

An open space between King and Meeting streets, one-fourth 
mile north of the City Hall, is Marion Square, on the northern side 
of which is a castellated stone building, the Citadel, long occupied 
by a military school. A statue of the South Carolina orator and pub- 
licist, John C. Calhoun (1782-1850), whose teachings ultimately led 



14 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

to this State taking the lead in the doctrine of " State rights" and 
secession from the Union, stands at the other end of the square. 

Just north of the Custom House is the City Market, occupying a 
series of long buildings extending from Bay to Meeting streets, and 
one of the most picturesque sights of the city. Flowers from the 
great rose gardens near the city are always prominent. Old darkies 
sit in their little pens guarding small portions of produce carefully 
displayed in shallow baskets woven of wire-grass and palmetto, 
which form the most interesting of souvenirs to tourists. Outside 
of the market, on top of the low walls across the way, sit numerous 
black, red-necked turkey buzzards {Cat/iartes cmra), and the smaller 
carrion crows {Catharista atratus). The market sheds terminate 
on Meeting Street in a large, imposing office building called Market 
Hall. 

The Charleston Hotel (special rates), on Meeting Street between 
Hayne and Pinckney streets, is an imposing structure, with two- 
storied balconies, which has been recently renovated and elaborately 
furnished and decorated. It is first-class in all appointments, has 
sunny rooms on three sides, and a breezy front, since the building 
faces the west, whence comes the pleasantest winds of summer. 
The St. Charles Hotel, corner Meeting and Hazel streets, is also a 
house of excellent reputation. 

Railways out of Charleston ; Summerville. 

(i) To Floroice and northward. Atlantic Coast Line (Route 13). 

(2) To Augusta, Columbia, Atlanta, and northwest. The S. 
C. & Ga. Rd. pursues a westerly course through the phosphate- 
producing region, crossing the headwaters of the Edisto River. 
This is one of the oldest railways in the United States ; it runs 
through a long-settled and popjilous part of the State, full of remi- 
niscences of Marion's exploits in Revolutionary days and of desultory 
fighting during the early, and again during the later, period of the 
Civil War. There are, however, extensive areas of pine forest, con- 
taining many small hotels and village boarding-houses patronized by 
invalids seeking relief in the dry, salubrious, balsam-scented air of 
this equable district. The foremost of these resorts is at Summer- 
ville (pop., 5,000, 22 m. from Charleston), where is situated the 
Pine-Forest /;z;z($4) and several lesser hotels. 

The In7i is a large new house among the pines, built and fur- 
nished with every modern convenience, and open in winter as a 



THE 



Pine forest Inn 

iA£INTER RESORX 

SUMMERVILLE, S. C. 



On the South Carolina & Georgia 
Railroad, twenty-two miles from 
Charleston, standing upon a .^j, 
plateau of sixty acres, beautifully 
wooded with pines and live oaks. 



4 



Electric lights, steam heat, and 
open fireplaces, hydraulic elevator, 
milk supply from our own herd of 
Jerseys, artesian water from the 
celebrated Pinehurst farm, billiards, 
bowling alley, tennis court, etc. 



The Transient Rates 



Address, 



Are ^4.00 to 35.00 per day. 

Weekly rates, according to location of room, 

will be quoted on application. 



W. B. LE HEW, Manager, Summerville, S.C. 
or F. W. WAGENER & CO., Owners, Charleston, S. C. 



OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 15 

health and pleasure resort. Summerville is a well-regulated village 
with churches, schools, lighted streets, good drainage, etc., and 
the locality has received the highest medical commendation. 
The means of amusement are various; shooting for quail, wild 
turkeys, etc., is good, and fox-hunts are a feature of the 
(neighborhood. The historical interest is very great. Four miles 
distant are the picturesque ruins of the old Dorchester fort, 
built of shell-rock on a high bluff overlooking Ashley River, which 
is known to have been standing since 1719. An ancient church 
stands near it. The Old White Church near by, now in ruins, 
was built in 1696. Goose Creek Church, built in 1711 (i m. from 
Otranto), and St. Andrew's, in 1706, are quaint structures still well 
preserved, the former having the royal arms of Great Britain and the 
coats of arms of various neighboring families emblazoned on the 
walls. The Oaks, near Goose Creek Church (St. James), graphically 
described in one of Gillmore Simm's novels, Ingleside, and several 
! other old plantations, will interest the visitor. Middle ton Place, 
noted for its lawn and stately terraces, has remained in the same 
family since the Revolution, and " contains the tomb of Arthur Mid- 
dleton,"one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence. Dray- 
ton Hall, a spacious and imposing brick residence built in 1740, and 
used by Cornwallis in 1780, hais been the property of the present 
family since 1671. Yeaman's Hall is another ancient property orig- 
inally the residen'^e of Landgrave Smith, Colonial Governor of South 
Carolina. It has secret underground passages to the river, and a 
secret chamber where prisoners and treasures have been safely con- 
cealed through the Revolutionary and recent wars. There are sev- 
eral extensive phosphate mines in the immediate neighborhood. 

At Branch ville a branch diverges to Columbia; and at Denmark 
is crossed the Florida Short Line (Route 14). The road now rises upon 
the healthful watershed between the Savannah and Edisto rivers, 
passes Aiken (p. 47), and then crosses the Savannah at Hamburg 
into Augusta (p. 47). 

(3) To Savannah. Atlantic Coast Line (Route 13). 

Clyde Line Steamships Charleston to Jacksonville. 

The ship leaves Charleston about noon, reverses the scenery of the 
harbor (p. 8), steams quietly down the coast, and reaches the bar 
of the St. Johns River at dawn. Here, if the tide is not right, the 
ship anchors until the water is deep enough to allow safe passage over 
the treacherous bar. The voyager will hardly imagine that a broad 
river breaks the coastline here, for the river turns in such a manner 
that one sees its farther bank across its current, apparently closing the 
real entrance. As the ship crosses the bar a white strip of sand, 
crowned with scrubby pines, gleams on the left. It is the low outer 



16 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

shore of Florida, and the little village clustered around the toot of the 
tall, red lighthouse is Mayport, said to be the best place for enjoying ; 
the luscious pompano. Burnside Beach is just below; and twenty- 
miles farther south is Pablo Beach, the sea-bathing resort off 
Jacksonville. 

History. — In 1562, Coligni, the admiral of the French navy underj.' 
Charles IX, and the leader of the Huguenots, sent a Huguenot colony 
under Ribault to America, which entered the St. Johns on the ist day 
of May. They named the stream the River of May, and placed a 
pillar engraved with the fleur-de-lis near its mouth. Two years later 
Laudonniere, with another party of colonists, built Fort Caroline, 
named in honor of Charles IX, on the south side of the river, imme- 
diately above St. Johns Bluff, five miles up the stream. In 1565 this 
fort was captured by Spaniards from St. Augustine, led by Menendez, 
and a terrible massacre ensued. The Spaniards repaired Fort Caro- 
line, renamed it San Mateo, and built two fortifications on opposite 
sides of the mouth of the St. Johns. A Frenchman, de Gourgues, 
came, in 1568, to avenge the murder of the Huguenots, and, with 
the help of the Indians, captured all the forts, killed the garrisons, 
and razed San Mateo to the ground. About 1737, Oglethorpe, the 
English governor of Georgia, planned a small fortification, called Fort 
George, on an island at the entrance of the St. Johns. 

The twenty-five miles from the bar to Jacksonville are very 
slowly traversed by the steamer. Although the river is broad and 
lake-like in some places, its muddy waters conceal many shoals, and 
a local pilot directs the ship's movements. St. Johns Bluff, on the 
left, above Mayport, is the highest land (40 ft.) of the region, the usual 
shores being merely banks of white sand that project far out under 
the water, as is evidenced by extensive flooded patches of green and 
purple marsh-grass. Herons and wild clucks rush out of these patches 
as the ship passes, and it is said that the largest alligators used to 
frequent this part of the river. About halfway to Jacksonville, on 
the right bank, lies New Berlin, rather the largest of the little villages 
that have been seen peeping from the forest, which is overtopped by a 
few feather-duster cabbage palms. Seines and boats proclaim one 
occupation of the inhabitants of this curious land, as the orange 
groves indicate another. At last, after many twists and turns, the „J 
ship is slowly fastened to the end of the wharf at Jacksonville, which; 
is at the foot of Hogan Street, one block from the central part of Bay 
Street, the princi^Dal thoroughfare, Avlicre electric cars run to all parts 
of the city. 




AN AVENUE OF PALMS ON THE LOWER ST. JOHN'S. 



OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 17 

Route 2.— Ocean Steanisliii) Line to Savannah. 

The Ocean Steamship Company sustains lines of first-class pas- 
senger steamers between Savannah, Ga. , and New York, Boston, and 
Philadelphia, which form a long popular north-and-south route. 

From New York steamers leave three times a week (Tuesday, 
Thursday. Saturday, 3.00 p. m.) from new piers 34 and 35, North 
River, foot of Spring and Canal streets, reached by street-cars, and 
within a quarter of a mile of nearly all the Sound steamboats. The 
time to Savannah is about fifty hours, and no stops are made. North- 
ward-bound steamers leave Savannah tri-weekly (Sunday, Tuesday, 
Friday, as the tide serves). The fleet includes such vessels as: "Kan- 
sas City," 4,000 tons; "City of Birmingham," "City of Augusta," 
"City of Savannah," and "Nacoochee," each 3,000 tons; they are 
of steel, with water-tight compartments, and provided with all " that 
would conduce to the comfort, security, and ease of the traveler." 
The saloons are completely finished in hardwood, the upholstery, 
hangings, and carpetings harmonizing in coloring and design. The 
staterooms contain two roomy berths each and are lighted by elec- 
tricity, as is the whole ship. A berth in one of the staterooms is 
included in each first-class ticket; and a person may reserve a whole 
stateroom to himself, when the ship is not crowded, by an extra pay- 
ment of $10. Meals are included in the fare. Tickets are sold and 
baggage is checked through by this line, from Boston, New York, 
and Philadelphia, to all points in the Southeastern States. Four kinds 
of tickets are sold: First-class (one way), excursion (round-trip at re- 
duced rates), intermediate (second cabin), and steerage. 

From Boston, via Philadelphia. — The steamships " Tallahassee," 
"Chattahoochee," and " Gate City" leave Boston every five days, 
according to schedule, and arrive at Philadelphia on the second day 
following at 4.00 a. m. , and sail the same day at 6. 00 p. m. for Savannah. 
On their north -bound voyages these steamers go direct to Boston. 

The Voyage from New York to Savannah gives two days at sea. 
Leaving New York at 3.00 p. m. , Sandy Hook is left behind before dark, 
and the lights of the watering-places along the New Jersey coast 
sparkle in plain view until bedtime. Glimpses are caught the next 
day of lighthouses at Hatteras and perhaps at Cape Fear (Wilming- 
ton, N. C), whence a direct course is laid for the entrance to 

Savannah River. — This river is the boundary between Georgia 
and South Carolina, and expands at its mouth into Tybee Roads, 



18 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

north of which is the island of Hilton Head and the bay of Port 
Ro3'al (Route 13c). The southern shore of Tybee Roads and the 
lower river is formed by a series of low islands, separated by 
marshy channels often navigable; the outermost of these is 
Tybee, formerly among the most celebrated for the production of 
the sea-island cotton, which rendered many of these low detach- 
ments of the coast lands extremely valuable. Cotton culture was 
undertaken by the earliest settlers along this coast, but amounted to 
nothing until after the close of the "War for Independence. Sea- 
island or long-staple cotton began to be grown on the Georgia islands 
in 17S6, but the first successful crop was raised here on Hilton Head 
in 1790. The invention of the cotton-gin, followed by an immediate 
influx of slaves, gave such an impulse to this industry that, in 1807, 
the crop of the United States amounted to 48,000,000 pounds, 20,000 
pounds of which was exported. 

Early History. — Into this river sailed, in February, 1732, Gen. 
James Edward Oglethorpe, with 116 colonists, planning to found there 
a refuge for English insolvent debtors and persons fleeing from relig- 
ious persecution. The colony received letters-patent from George II, 
and was named after him. The Creek Indians, who inhabited all that 
part of the country, welcomed the newcomers and ceded to them 
Yamacraw Bluff, the site of the present city— high ground on the 
southern bank, eighteen miles from the mouth of the river. The 
colony was wisely managed and prospered, so that when, in 1776, 
Georgia was adrnitted to the Federal Union as one of the original 
thirteen States, she had 70,000 population, and Savannah was 
alreadv an important seaport. In 1776 a British naval attack was 
repulsed, but in 1778 the English gained possession of the city, 
and held it in spite of a vigorous effort for its recovery, made 
some months later, by a combined force of Americans and French- 
men, the latter under D'Estaing, and including a fiery young 
PoHsh officer, Count Casimir Pulaski, who lost his life, and Avhose 
name has been identified with the locality ever since. It was not 
until the close of the Revolutionary War that the British were 
expelled. After the gaining of peace, Georgia was much troubled 
by Indian border-wars, but Savannah, although repeatedly devas- 
tated by fires, grew rapidly, and was chartered in 1789. 

Savannah (pop., 60,500; DeSoto, $4; Pulaski, $3.50; Screven, 
$2.50) is laid out with great regularity and in an interesting man- 
ner. A narrow, low space along the riverside is occupied by the 
wharves and cotton warehouses, rice mills, and vast cotton presses, 
which form one of the sights of the city. Behind these commercial 
establishments the edge of the bluff rises so steeply that few of the 
north and south streets come down to the river edge, most of them 




o 

'73 

7^ 




^^^mKB^^- i^K^M M 





Short Vacations 
For Busy People 




700 MILES 

OF OCEAN TRAVEL 



PROVIDED you have a few days to rest and change the physical 
atmosphere of your Hfe, and invest in real recreation, can a more 
delightful and valuable journey be conceived than the excursion 
by the Old Dominion Line to Fortress Monroe? Skirting the Atlantic 
Coast south from New York, it gives an ideal sojourn on the sea. 

A MODEL VACATION TRIP. 

If you have seventy -two hours and $16 or $17 at your disposal, you can embark 
on the handsome and magnificently fitted steamers of this line, di'ink in for thirty- 
six hours the invigorating breath of Old Ocean, and spend the other half of the 
vacation at the charming Vhginia seaside resorts of either Old Point Comfort or 
Virginia Beach. 

PERENNIAL OLD POINT COMFORT. 

The favored coast on which these two resorts are situated is remarkable for its 
possession of a delightful temperature and climate all the year round, but perhaps 
they are appreciated in fullest measure in the winter. Then they shine by contrast 
with other snow-bound regions. The famous and palatial Hygeia Hotel at Fortress 
Monroe is the hostelry which furnishes the tourist with a home during his stay on 
this excursion ; or, if he select Virginia Beach, the Princess Anne Hotel. Fortress 
Monroe is a fascinating point for the traveler. The fort is the largest in the United 
States and one of the fashionable features of the excursion is a visit to it during 
guard-mount. The beach is a rarely beautiful one, stretching back from the great 
hotel in graceful, sinuous carves, and packed so hard that it makes a perfect 
equestrian track; while at Virginia Beach there are no less than sixty miles of such 
wonderful shore line. 

When it is said that the charge of $16 or $17 includes all the expenses of travel 
and the stay at these splendid hotels, the rare chance offered in these special excur- 
sions of the Old Dominion Line will be easily appreciated. 

BACK THROUGH CHESAPEAKE BAY. 

If one wishes to vary the return, tickets can be obtained, allowing the equally 
delightful experience of coming through Chesapeake Bay — the home of the oyster, 
canvasback, and terrapin — to Washington, and thence by rail to New York. 

For full particulars of these and other not less charming trips, addi^ess 

Old Dominion Steamship Co., 



Pier 26 N. R., NEW YORK, 



W. L, GUILLAUDEU, Vice-Pres't and Traffic Manager, 



OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 19 

stopping at Bay Street, which runs along the brow of the bluff, and 
is the principal business street. On it are the city hall, custom house, 
banks, etc. It terminates at each end in East and West Broad .streets, 
which run back from the river and form the sides, so to speak, of the 
quadrangle of the city. Midway between these two, and parallel with 
them, is Bull Street y the "fashionable promenade," a walk along 
which displays most of the city's points of public interest. It is crossed 
near Bay Street by Congress and Broughton streets, on which are the 
best retail stores. Half a mile back (south) from Bay Street is the 
broad cross-street, Liberty Street, with the De Soto Hotel at the cor- 
ner of Bull Street; the Cen. R. R. of Ga.'s station at the western end 
(West Broad Street), and the Coast-Line's station at the other extrem- 
ity (East Broad Street). 

This city early became the home of wealthy merchants and 
planters, who erected stately and elegant homes; and these old- 
fashioned houses, grown picturesque through age. facing streets 
shaded by fine old oaks and palms, and surrounded by gardens pro- 
fuse with shrubbery and flowers, lend an air of old-time elegance to 
Savannah, dear to its people and very attractive to a stranger. The 
great amount of shade has given the name "Forest City" to the 
town, and the warm climate gives to it a semi-tropical variety very 
lasting and beautiful. This feature is enhanced by the small parks 
which stand at street intersections every 200 yards throughout all 
the older part of the city. All of these little parks are pretty, and 
some of them are specially noteworthy. Johnson Square is on Bull 
Street, between Congress and Broughton, and contains a Doric obe- 
lisk commemorative of Gen. Nathaniel Greene, commander of the 
Southern army during the Revolution; it was erected in 1829. Pul- 
aski Hotel and Christ Church face the square. The next up Bull 
vStreet comes Wright Square, containing the County Court House and 
the Gordon statue. Two blocks west of it is Telfair Place, facing 
which are Trinity Church and the Telfair Academy, the latter con- 
taining a notable collection of casts, many good paintings, and interest- 
ing historical objects, which are open to visitors. Walking south to 
Broad Street, turn east to Bull Street, at the corner of which are the 
Independent- Presbyterian Church and the old Chatham Academy. 
Just south, on Bull Street, is Chippewa Square, at the northeast corner 
of which is the Savannah Theater, the oldest in the United States; 
and one block east of this is an old cemetery worth notice. A short 
distance south of the old cemetery is Liberty Street and the Roman 
Catholic Cathedral and Convent of St. Vincent de Paul. A block 
west, at the corner of Liberty and Bull streets, is the new De Soto 
Hotel, a lofty, handsome building of brick and stone, furnished and 
conducted in a modern and first-class manner, and largely patron- 
ized by winter residents from the North. The southern face of the 
hotel looks out upon Madison Square, in which is a statue-monu- 

3 



20 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TES. 

ment to Sergeant Jasper, the hero of Fort Moultrie, representing 
him in the historical act of planting the fallen flag upon the ramparts. 
Next south, on Bull Street, is Monterey Square, with a spirited statue 
of CoitJit Pulaski. This monument, which rises on the spot where 
Pulaski fell in 1779, is a marble shaft, fifty-five feet high, surmounted 
by a statue of Liberty displaying the national flag; its foundations 
were laid by Lafayette in 1825. One square farther brings us to 
Forsyth Park, at the entrance to which is Hodgso7i Hall, containing 
the rooms, library, and museum ot the Georgia Historical Society. 
Forsyth Park contains thirty acres, is filled with trees of a great 
variety, and a vast number of flowers and flowering shrubs; it has a 
fountain copied from, that on the Place de la Concord, Paris, and is 
justly regarded as one of the most beautiful parks in the country; 
south of it expands a large, o^^n parade-ground, containing a mon- 
ument to slain Confederate soldiers, surmounted by an equestrian 
statue of Gen. R. E. Lee. 

Suburban excursions of great interest may be made at Savannah. 
Fine level roads, paved with crushed shells, extend from the city in 
every direction. The most interesting is southward to Bonaventure 
Cemetery, Thunderbolt, and the Isle of Hope, which can be also 
reached by electric cars. The avenues of Bonaventure Cemetery 
are shaded by long lines of ancient live-oaks, thickly hung with the 
graybeard moss that lends a grandly funereal aspect to the place, 
and makes this graveyard one of the most remarkable and interest- 
ing in the South. Some distance beyond is Thunderbolt, a water- 
side picnic place and pleasure resort (boating and fishing) renowned 
for its sea-food dinners. The Isle of Hope, still farther on, is the 
summer residence of many citizens. In another direction is The 
Hei'mitage, an old-time plantation well worth seeing. 

The story of Savannah in the Civil War is interesting. During 
the first months of the conflict it was open or inefficiently blockaded, 
so that the port was of great value to the Confederacy for the export 
of cotton and the import of munitions of war and merchandise. 
It was defended by Fort Pulaski, on a small island at the mouth of 
the river, and by Fort McAllister and other modern batteries nearer 
the city. Port Royal, S. C, was captured in October, 1861 (p. — ), 
and, late in November, Commodore Du Pont took possession of Big 
Tybee and other islands, whence Fort Pulaski, planted on Cockspur 
Island, could be easily bombarded. This fort had been erected by 
the Government many years before at a cost of $1,000,000, and was 
fully garrisoned. Exploration of the waterways disclosed a passage 
by which the gunboats made their way around the islands to the 
rear of the fort. Meanwhile heavy batteries had been erected on 
Tybee Island, and by February, 1862, the river was completely 
blockaded. - In April, Fort Pulaski was bombarded, and in two days 
had been so battered as to be no longer tenable, and was surrendered. 



OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 31 

(It has since been restored to 'an effective condition.) This enabled 
the Union forces to seal the harbor; but they could not reach the 
city itself, which did not fall into Federal hands until the latter part 
of December, 1864, when Sherman's army approached it from the 
northwest (Route 21). The defenses checked the advance, but a 
division passed on and captured Fort McAllister by assault. This 
opened communication with the blockading fleet, and a few days 
later Sherman nearly invested the city, which was then evacuated by 
the Confederates. On December 21st the Union troops marched 
in, and the next day General Sherman wrote to President Lincoln: 
" I beg to present you as a Christmas gift the city of Savannah, with 
150 heavy guns and plenty of ammunition; also about 125,000 bales 
of cotton." 

Railroad Routes from Savannah. 

(i) To Charleston. Atlantic Coast Line (Route 13). 

(2) To Columbia and northward. Florida Short Line (Route 14). 

(3) To Augusta, Macon, and Atlanta. This is the old Central 
Railroad' of Georgia route, with certain alternatives. The line passes 
northwest to Mil I en (79 m.), where it divides, one branch proceeding 
north fifty-three miles through Waynesboro to Augusta (p. 47), 
whence the same line continues northwest to Atlanta (p. 119); the 
other branch continues west, 112 miles, through the Middle Georgia 
pine woods, via Oconee (springs) and Gordon (branch line to Mil led ge- 
ville, the former State capital), to Macon (p. 122), whence there is 
choice of two routes to Atlanta: {a) Central Railroad of Georgia 
(Route 21), or {b) Southern Railway (Route 22). Distance to Atlanta, 
via Augusta, 303 miles; via Macon, 294 miles. 

(4) To Aniericiis, Ga., Mo7itgomery, Ala., and west. — The Cen- 
tral of Georgia and allied railroads form a line directly west, through 
Lyons, Mount Vernon, Cordele (intersection of Georgia Southern Rd.), 
and Americus (125 m.) to Montgomery, Ala., and westward via Meri- 
dian, Miss. Americus (pop., 10,000; Windsor, $3; Allen, $2; Watts, 
$2) is a flourishing market and manufacturing town, with roads to 
Columbus, Macon, Albany, and further connections. It is in the 
midst of the fruit country, and is a cotton market. A few miles 
north is Andersonville, made forever infamous by the frightful prison 
pens kept there during the Civil War. 

(5) To New Orleans, (a) Plant System (continuation of Route 13, 

: Atlantic Coast Line), via Waycross, Thomasville, Pensacola, and 
Flomaton (Route 28). Distance Savannah to New Orleans 673 miles. 

I (b) Central Railroad of Georgia, to Montgomery, Ala. (see above 
and Route 28); distance 661 miles. 



22 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

(6) To Jacksonville: (a) Florida Short Line (Route 14), via 
Everett; distance, 139 miles, (d) Plant System, via Waycross; dis- 
tance, 172 miles. 

Route 3.— Mallory Lines to Florida and Texas. 

The New York & Texas Steamship Company (Mallory Lines) 
maintains an excellent service of eleven iron steamships between 
New York and Brunswick, Ga., Fernandina and Key West, Fla., and 
Galveston, Tex. The company's fleet includes the "Concho," 4,500 
tons; "Leona," 3,700; "Nueces," 3,700; "Comal," 3,200; "Lampasas," 
3,200; "Alamo," 3,200, and several others of less size. These are 
built and equipped with all modern devices for safety, comfort, 
and enjoyment, and the table service has an especially high reputa- 
tion. First-class and steerage tickets are sold, and through and 
round-trip tickets to all prominent points in Florida, Texas, the 
Southwest, California, Mexico, and Cuba. The fare includes a berth 
in a stateroom, and a first-class stateroom may usually be reserved by 
payment of one fare and a half. The steerage is comfortable and 
liberally managed. The piers of this company, in New York, are 
Nos. 20 and 21, East River, adjoining Fulton Ferry, easily reached 
by street-cars, the elevated railroad (Fulton Street station), and the 
Fulton Ferry from Brooklyn. 

For Key West, Fla., and Galveston, Tex., steamers leave New 
York, during the winter-half of the year, three times a week (Tues- 
day, Thursday, and Saturday. 3.00 p. m.), and twice a week (Wednes- 
day and Saturday) in summer. Returning, steamers leave Galveston 
same days. The time to Galveston direct is six to seven days. Sat- 
urday's steamer, all the year round (Wednesday's from Galveston) 
touches at Kejy West, four days from New York. (For the Florida 
Keys and Key West, see p. 199.) 

The Georgia-Florida service (to Brunswick and Fernandina) is 
maintained by weekly sailings from New York every Friday at 3.00 
p. m. the year round, except when business warrants a service semi- 
weekly (Tuesday and Friday). Returning, the steamers leave Fer- 
nandina on Tuesday and Brunswick on Friday. The time is about 
sixty hours from New York to Brunswick, where the vSteamer calls, 
transacts her business, and then proceeds to Fernandina (p. 29). If- 
close connection be made, Jacksonville may be reached from New 
York in seventy hours. 



Mallory Steamship [^ms 

(NEW YORK &, TEXAS STEAMSHIP CO.) 

For TEXAS, GEORGIA, and FLORIDA. 

Eleven Iron Steamships, aggregating 33,200 Tons. 



Concho 

Leona 

Nueces 

Comal 

Lampasas 

Alamo 

San IMarcos ... 

Colorado 

Rio Grande .... 
State of Texas • • 
City of San Antonio 




TONNAGE. 



4,000 Tons 

3,700 " 

3,700 ** 

3,200 •* 

3,200 ** 

3,200 *• 

3,000 " 

3,000 ** 

2,700 *• 

1,800 " 

1,700 *' 



From NEW YORK, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday. 

A Delightful Six Days' Voyage by Sea, to Galveston, Texas, 

THENCE BY RAIL TO 

ALL POINTS IN THE STATE OF TEXAS, 

MEXICO CITY AND POINTS IN MEXICO, AND TO DENVER, 
COLORADO SPRINGS, SALT LAKE CITY, ETC. 

ALSO TO 

SAN FRANCISCO, SAN?DIEGO, LOS ANGELES, 

AND ALL CALIFORNIA WINTER RESORTS. 

FLORIDA-VIA BRUNSWICK, GA.-TO JACKSONVILLE. 
ST. AUGUSTINE, TAMPA, ETC. 

(New York to Jacksonville in about SEVENTY hours.) 

Straight and Round-Trip Tickets issued to all points in Texas, Colorado, 
Utah, Arizona, California, Mexico, etc., Georgia, Florida, etc. 

Excellent Passenger Accommodations... No Overcrowding. 

The number of passengers on the Mallory Line steamers is limited to the 
seating capacity of the saloon. All passengers served at one sitting. 

State-rooms contain two berths and a sofa, and are arranged for two passen- 
gers. Soace for sea-trunks under lower berths. 

The passage rates include meals and berths on the steamer as well as the 
cost of transportation. 

Our 64-Page "Handbook of Routes" Mailed Free. 

C. H. MALLORY & CO., General Agents, 

Pier 20, East River, New York. 



OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 23 

Brunswick (pop., 8,000; Oglethorpe, $3.50; Ocean, $2) is one of the 
most interesting of the Southern seaports. It is situated upon a small 
peninsula between two of the four tidal rivers which empty into St. 
Simon's Sound in the rear of St. Simon's and Jekyll islands. As the 
inlet between these islands will admit vessels of nine feet draught, 
the commercial possibilities of the harbor are extensive, and 
the port conducts a large business in the export of lumber, naval 
stores, and phosphates, especially to South American ports. The last 
cargo of slaves imported into the United States was landed here. 

As a temporary residence, especially in winter and spring, 
Brunswick has many attractions. It is one of the oldest settlements 
on the coast, having been founded by Oglethorpe's colonists soon 
after Savannah. The town is divided into square blocks by very 
broad, straight streets, and the older parts are shaded by aged live- 
oaks which in many places form a moss-draped arch of dense ever- 
green foliage extending for several blocks. Hanover Park is filled 
with magnificent oaks, interspersed with palmettos andcedars. Many 
fine old homes, in the midst of large gardens, give an appearance of 
settled domesticity, very welcome to a stranger. Persons with weak 
lungs find the local climate beneficial, while the comparatively dry 
and usually sunny and balm}' air is a constant pleassure to the winter 
visitor, and tempers the heat of summer, when the seashore at Bruns- 
wick is sought by persons from the interior of the State. Good roads 
penetrate the pine woods in every direction, and the shooting is excel- 
lent throughout the neighborhood. Deer, wild turkeys, and quail are 
the leading items in the list, but foxes, squirrels, hares, and the vari- 
ous shore and water birds are numerous. The list of JisJies of this 
coast includes mullet, trout, blackfish, drum, bass, sheepshead, whit- 
ing, and flounder, and many boatmen make a business of fishing 
in the sounds and rivers, and send the catch to inland markets. 
Visitors fond of fishing can therefore get suitable boats and experi- 
enced guidance, and be sure of excellent sport in this direction. 
Sailboats and steam-launches may be hired for exploration of the 
very interesting waterways that lead back among the sea islands. 

Steamboats run intermittently between Savannah and Brunswick, 
and a person having the time (two days) and inclination would find 
the trip well worth the making. Shorter trips may be made daily by 
regular steamboats, one of which runs between Brunswick and 
Darien via St. Simon's Mills, returning the same day. Darien is a 
quaint old port at the mouth of the Altamaha, one of the earliest set- 
tlements in the State. Another line runs up the Satilla River to 
Burnt Fort, returning the next day. This is a trip for sportsmen. 

The Oglethorpe, at Brunswick, is one of the largest and most 
prominent hotels in the South. It covers a slight elevation overlook- 



24 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TE S. 

ing the harbor, within a moment's walk of the railway and steamboat 
stations and the principal shops. The building is of brick, three 
stories in height, with a frontage of 267 feet, along the whole length 
of which runs a wide porch, and with wings reaching back 140 feet at 
each end. Towers and peaked roofs give a pleasing aspect to the struc- 
ture. The center of the building is occupied by a spacious, marble- 
floored rotunda, opening at the rear upon a second broad porch, which 
is the favorite afternoon lounging-place of guests. All of the furni- 
ture and fittings of this hotel are elegant and comfortable, and there 
is little choice among the rooms so far as situation is concerned. The 
lighting is by electricity, water is supplied from an artesian well, and 
the provision against bad drainage or fire seems to be complete. 

Of the Sea Islands near New Brunswick, St. Simon's, Jekyll, 
and Cumberland are the most important. Of these the nearest is 
St. Simon's. This island is 12 miles long, north and south, from 
Altamaha Sound to St. Simon's Inlet, and 7 miles wide. One of the 
earliest settlements in the State was made upon it, and in the period 
before the Civil War it embraced extensive cotton plantations. The 
first American sea-island cotton seen in Liverpool came from here 
(1786), a sample raised from Bahama seed. The island still has a 
considerable population devoted to lumbering, farming, and fishing; 
but is reputed principally as a summer seashore resort. A steamboat 
runs twice a day, during the summer, to the hotel landing (8 m. ; 
fare, 25 cents), leaving Brunswick at 9.00 a.m. and 2.00 p. m. (extra trip 
9.00 p. m. Saturday); and all the year round a small mail-boat makes a 
daily trip to St. Simon's Mills, on the western shore. The hotel 
landing is at the southern end of the island, where the lighthouse 
stands upon the site of Oglethorpe's primitive fortification called St. 
Simon's Fort or King's Retreat. This lighthouse is a stone tower, 
bearing a revolving red and white light, flashing alternately at inter- 
vals of two minutes and visible sixteen miles. Between it and the pier 
are picnic grounds, a small hotel (Ocean View, $2), and a row of small 
plain cottages known as the " AVaycross Colony." The amusement 
of the place is found in fishing and in hunting for green turtles, 
which come upon the beach to deposit their egg's. St. Simon's Hotel 
($3) is on the hard ocean beach, on the farther (eastern) side of the 
island, and is reached by tramway (fare, 10 cents). It is a large 
wooden building of modern construction, and has extensive bathing 
houses, and a well -furnished livery stable. ' The immediate neighbor- 
hood offers no other amusement than walking, bathing, and hunting 
for turtles; but the northern part of the island is full of picturesque 
as well as historical interest. 



OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 25 

History and Antiquities. — Oglethorpe had landed at Savannah in 
1733 (p. 18) and claimed for his colony an extensive region south- 
ward. In 1736 he returned from a visit to England with 150 High- 
land soldiers and a number of heavy cannon, and built at the northern 
end of St. Simon's Island a very strong fort protecting a settlement of 
colonists called Frederica, on a bluff overlooking the Altamaha, where 
he himself set up the only home he ever had in Georgia. He also 
erected earthworks for batteries at the southern extremity of the 
island (Fort St. Simon or King's Retreat), commanding the inlet there, 
and then connected the two places by a road along the inner side of 
the island. Two years later he attempted a fruitless attack upon 
Florida, then held by the Spaniards, and made other aggressive 
movements. In 1742 the Spaniards resolved to check these threaten- 
ing acts, and if possible expel the English from " Georgia," which 
Spain claimed as far as the Savannah River. They gathered from 
Cuba and Florida a fleet and sailed from St. Augustine, entering St. 
Simon's Sound in July with 36 vessels and 3,000 land troops. Ogle- 
thorpe, forewarned, was ready upon the island, but had a force of 
less than 1,000, including Indians, since South Carolina had denied 
him aid. His batteries at St. Simon's Fort were successfully passed 
by the enemy, whereupon he spiked their useless guns and retreated 
to Frederica. The Spaniards followed and annoyed him by frequent 
attacks, always repulsed, while he waited in vain for reinforcements 
from South Carolina. Then he retaliated by a night attack upon the 
enemy, but failed to surprise or dislodge them. By a ruse he led 
them to believe that a British fleet was soon expected; whereupon 
they marched again to attack Frederica, but were ambushed in the 
forest and were largely killed or captured. Those who could, re- 
treated in confusion, and, boarding their ships, hastened to St. Augus- 
tine, which they believed in danger, only to find that they had been 
outgeneraled by Oglethorpe. The place of their slaughter is still 
called " Bloody Marsh;" and the Spaniards never tried again to take 
possession of Georgia, which, in 1763, was formally declared British ter- 
ritory to St. Mary's River, the present southern boundary of the State. 

Delightful Excursions may' be made to Frederica and vari- 
ous places of interest in the neighborhood. A shell road, well 
maintained, runs from the St. Simon's Hotel northward— the same 
one which Oglethorpe built in 1736 — and passes close to Bloody 
Marsh (2 m.). Of Frederica nothing now remains except the 
old British fort and the ruins of a magazine or storehouse, of 
which the first and second stories are still standing. Both buildings 
are composed of "tabby," a concrete of shells, lime, and sand, for 
which the materials were abundant, and which soon hardens into the 
firmness of rock; probably the knowledge of tabby was a relic of 
information picked up by Oglethorpe in Queen Anne's wars against 
the Turks, for it is a common building material in Morocco. The 



26 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

fort and the ' ' magazine " are a quarter of a mile apart and connected 
by a subterranean way. 

Breastworks defended the land approaches on all sides, out- 
side of which may still be seen several ancient tombs, in which 
Spaniards have been buried — presumably officers to whom the 
British gave Christian burial. These interesting colonial relics are 
slowly falling to ruin, and it is greatly to be desired that some 
public-spirited person should institute measures for their preser- 
vation. A few hundred yards from the old fort is the Church, in 
the midst of a group of magnificent oaks, where John Wesley, not 
yet a Methodist, preached to Oglethorpe's Highlanders while their, 
sentinels scanned the sea against Spanish men-of-war, and watched 
the Sound in fear of Indian raiders. A small, new building has 
taken the place of the original Church-of-England edifice, but it 
stands upon the same spot, surrounded by the old churchyard in 
which lie the bodies of several generations of Kings and Butlers. 
These Butlers had owned Butler' s Island, close by, for a cen- 
tury, and when Fanny Kemble, the tragedienne, married into the 
family, it was thither that she went as a bride. Following the 
original military road northeastward, the traveler presently reaches 
Ca7inon's Point, where the ruins of a long-famous plantation 
house form a point of view for a landscape of exceeding beauty. 
Near by still stands a hut in which Aaron Burr is said to have 
hidden for some time during his wanderings in the South in 1805-7, 
plotting an overturn of the Government. An olive-grove of 
360 trees, and the stump of the oak that supplied a bow- 
sprit to the United States Frigate "Independence," are also 
pointed out to visitors. From Frederica the drive may continue 
eastward along hard, level roads, and beneath the entwined arms 
of moss-laden live-oaks to the Coitper Place, a celebrated colonial 
residence on an inlet named Black Banks, where the best fishing 
is to be had. The road then returns southward, near the ocean 
side of the island, through forest arches, opening here and there 
into glades or a view of the sea. These forests still supply a 
great quantity of timber, which is cut by several mills, one of 
which uses nothing but cypress logs. No cotton and little tobacco 
is now cultivated. 

Route 4.— Brunswick to Fernandina through the 

Sounds. 

A very pleasant divergence from any of several rail routes 
between the North and Florida may be made by taking the comfort- 
able boats of the Brunswick & Florida Steamboat Company between 
Brunswick and Fernandina. These leave Brunswick at 8.co a. m. , and 
reach Fernandina at 12.30 noon; returning, leave Fernandina at i.oo 
p. m., and reach Brunswick at 5.30 p. m., making train connections 
at both ends, and such stops as are required. 



OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 37 

The route, southbound, crosses Brunswick harbor, leaving St. 
Simon's Island and inlet on the left, and turns south into a narrow 
tidal passage, called Jekyll Creek, along the inner shore of Jekyll 
Island. This is a densely-forested island, about the size of St. 
Simon's, reaching from St. Simon's Inlet south to St. Andrew's 
Sound. It was formerly more or less occupied, but lately has been 
left wild, and a few years ago became the property of the Jekyll 
Club, an association of wealthy gentlemen who wish to make the 
island a recreation ground and game-preserve. They have erected a 
luxurious club-house near the steamboat landing, made a fine drive 
around the island and hard roads in various directions, have stocked 
it with hundreds of deer and thousands of game birds, including 
foreign pheasants, and made every provision for out-door enjoyment 
and in-door comfort. The grounds are not open to the public. 

Cumberland Island is next south of Jekyll Island, from which it 
is separated by St. Andrew's Sound, whence Cumberland River fur- 
nishes an inland passage southward to St. Mary's River. 

This large island was formerly of very great value, not only on 
account of its timber and fish, but for its extensive plantations of 
cotton. It is still somewhat inhabited, and the steamer makes three 
stops — Cumberland, Cabin Bluff, and Dungeness — when occasion 
calls. The first landing is for the summer resort in the northern 
part of the island, which surrounds the Cumberland Island Hotel 
($2.50). This is situated in the midst of beautiful woods, midway 
between the river and the ocean beach, with both of which the hotel 
and cottages are connected by tramways. A special steamer makes 
a daily trip between Brunswick and this place, which is a favorite 
resort of Georgians. Dungeness, near the southern extremity of 
the island, is the name of a plantation connected with the early and 
interesting history of the locality. 

Oglethorpe landed on this island, among his early explorations, 
named it after the Duke of Cumberland, and built a battery called 
Fort Andrew on the southwest side. The island remained unoccu- 
pied, however, and at the close of the Revolution the State gave it 
to Gen. Nathaniel Greene, as a testimonial to his services in the 
South, including Little Cumberland, the island to the north of it, 
which now bears a powerful lighthouse. He took possession of it 
and built the mansion styled Dunge^iess, but died almost immedi- 
ately afterward (1785). His widow maintained the plantation, 
cotton growing having been profitably begun on the sea-islands. As 
a tutor for her children she emplo^^ed a Connecticut schoolmaster, 



28 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

Eli Whitney, who there invented the cotton-gin, which enormously 
increased the cultivation of cotton, but proportionately enlarged the 
demand for laborers, and caused an immense importation of slaves 
during the next ten years, with its ultimate sad results. In 1814, 
Gen. Charles Henry (Light Horse Harry) Lee was severely wounded 
by a mob in Baltimore and went to the West Indies to recover his 
health. The attempt failed, and in 1818 he returned to the United 
States. Halting at Dungeness, he was overtaken by a relapse, died, 
and w^as buried, and his grave still remains there. The daughter of 
Mrs. Greene inherited the property, from whom it descended to the 
Nightingales of Brunswick. The house was carefully protected from 
harm during the Civil War by the troops of both sides, a national 
garrison holding the island after 1862; but some years later the 
mansion was burned. The estate was then bought by Andrew 
Carnegie, the Pittsburg ironmaster, who has rebuilt the house as_ a 
great granite castle. ' During the Civil War a battery was built at its 
southern end, but no fight of consequence occurred. 

Passing out of Cumberland Sound, and across the mouth of St. 
Mary's River, the steamer enters the narrow arm of the sea 
between Amelia Island, on the left, and Tiger Island, on the 
right, called North Amelia River, and soon reaches the railway 
wharf at the new town of Fernandina. This inlet turns west and 
ccmnects with St. Mary's River; southward it communicates through 
Kingsley's Creek, navigable for light-draught boats, with Nassau 
Sound, ten miles south, w^hence small boats can find their way 
through to the St. Johns River, making possible a continuous inland 
passage for light-draught boats (with trifling breaks near Wilming- 
ton, N. C.) from New York to Jacksonville. 

Sport Along Shore. — ' ' In going south (in November) the yachts- 
man will pass large and numerous flocks of bay-snipe on all the 
marshes south of Charleston. These marshes are muddy islands and 
of a peculiar nature. On the surface, when dry, they are firm 
enough for walking, but their shores are unfathomable ooze, beneath 
which a man would sink at once out of sight. . . Curlew, willet, 
marlin, all varieties down to the tiny ox-eye, and in immense flocks, 
frequent these islands, where they seem to find food without stint. 
To stool them you can set out your decoys in the thin grass, and 
make a stand near by from reeds or bushes. They are quite wary, 
however. . . These marshes are honey-combed wnth the burrows 
of the fiddler-crab and mussels grown on their surface in soft mounds 
of earth. They are covered by very high tides, and are always more 
or less damp. The bay-snipe, however, do not seem to winter here. 
They leave a small proportion of their members, but the main body 
goes farther south, possibly beyond the equator. There are no such 
m^^riads as the Northern flight would require, and they grow fewer 
and fewer as the season advances, till in March they are almost 



OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 29 

scarce. Let the sportsman take his toll from them while he can; 
stopping amid the lonesomeness of these islands, where it is certain 
death to pass a summer (?), and where he may sail tens of miles with- 
out seeing a man, white or black. Let him try the deep holes along- 
side of bluffs, or where two creeks meet, for sheepshead, using for 
bait the Southern prawn, that gigantic shrimp, with its body six 
inches long and its feelers ten; and if he can catch no fish and misses 
the birds, let him rejoice in knowing that there are millions of both 
in Florida." — R. B. Roosevelt, Florida and Game IVatcr-Birds. 

Fernandina (pop., 4,000; Eginont, $3.50; 'Strathmore, $2.50) is 
chiefly interesting to sportsmen and as a seaport. The town is 
on the landward side of Amelia Island, and its pretty harbor is con- 
sidered the finest on the coast south of Chesapeake Bay, and was 
well known to the early explorers; but no permanent settlement 
was made until 1S08. In 1818 the place fell into the hands of a 
filibuster named McGregor, and was made the headquarters of 
piratical forays upon Spanish commerce. When this was ended 
the town faded, but slowly advanced after Florida came into the 
L^nion in 1821, encouraged by the building there of Fort Clinch, 
a really powerful work on high ground at the northern end of 
Amelia Island, flanked by water-batteries and outworks. 

This fort was not garrisoned, though fully armed, and at the 
outbreak of the Rebellion was seized by the Confederates, who 
valued the harbor as a refuge for blockade-runners. In 1S61 a 
Confederate prize-vessel was run ashore and destroyed by a National 
cruiser. The town then had about 2,000 inhabitants. In February, 
1862, a Federal fleet, under Dupont, came from Port Royal to attack 
this point. On its approach the fort and town were hastily evacuated. 
Only one vessel, the " Ottawa," in that state of the tide, was able to 
reach the town at once, with Commander Percival Drayton in charge. 
As he passed Fort Clinch a boat's crew was sent ashore to hoist 
the American flag as a signal to the fleet. A white flag was displayed 
at Fernandina, but shots were fired at the " Ottawa," and a raifway 
train drawn by two engines was discovered just moving off. It was 
naturally supposed to contain troops, and an exciting chase ensued, 
as th^ track was, for some four miles, within range of the river. The 
"Ottawa" endeavored to disable the engines with her large-rifled 
gun, but the train had the advantage of speed, and eventually 
left the gunboat behind, escaping across the bridge. A steamer, 
the " Darlington," crowded with refugees, was less fortunate, being 
captured by the " Ottawa's " boats. The occupation of Fernandina 
restored to Federal control the whole of the sea-coast of Georgia, 
and afforded a convenient base of operations against Jacksonville 
and St. Augustine. — Norton. Handbook of Florida. 

The city at present is busy as a port, since it is the center of 



30 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

the lumber trade of Florida, and exports large quantities of phos- 
phates. There are extensive wharves and elevators. The streets 
are wide, shady, covered with shell paving, and lighted by electricity. 
The climate is singularly equable. Opportunities for interesting 
yachting and canoeing are equaled by few, if any, places on the 
Southern coast, and excellent sport with gun and rod can be had the 
year round. Interesting excursio7is ma}^ be made to Fort Clinch, and 
to the " old town " (i i^ m.), beyond which is the lighthouse. Amelia 
Beach, t\ie ocean shore of the island, is thirteen miles long — pure 
white sand, almost as hard as asphalt, . at low tide, and famous 
throughout the South. 

The Florida Central & Peninsular Railroad extends from Fernan- 
dina southeast to Cedar Keys. At Yulee (12 m. inland) it is inter- 
sected by the Florida Short Line, where passengers change for Jack- 
sonville, thirty-six miles from Fernandina. 

Route 5.— Cromwell Line to New Orleans. 

The Cromwell Steamship Company run large iron steamers, hav- 
ing full passenger accommodations, between New York and New 
Orleans, direct, sailing from Pier 9, North River, New York, every 
Saturday, and from the foot of Toulouse Street, New Orleans, every 
Wednesday. Through tickets are sold to interior points north and 
west of New Orleans, and to California and Mexico. As New 
Orleans is hardly within the limits of the present book, a more par- 
ticular description is not called for here. 

Koute 6.— Boston, Providence, and Baltimore to the 

Soutli. 

The Merchants' & Miners' Transportation Company runs lines 
of large and commodious steamers from northern to southern ports, 
with through tickets to interior points in Georgia, Florida, and Ala- 
bama, as follows: 

(i) Boston to Baltimore, via Norfolk and Newport News, tri- 
weekly (Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, 2.00 p. m.), from Battery 
Wharf. The interesting scenes of Boston Harbor are in view before 
dark, and the next day a delightful run is made through the land- 
locked waters of Vineyard Sound, whence a straight course is laid for 
the "Capes of Virginia." The time from Boston to Baltimore is 
about three days, including stops of several hours at Norfolk and 



OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 31 

Newport News (p. 32). The steamer leaving Boston on Saturday 
connects at Baltimore with the steamier to Savannah. Steamers 
leave Baltimore for Boston, via Norfolk, June i to Sept. 30, Tuesday 
and Thursday at 4.00 p. m. ; Sunday at 10.00 a. m. ; Oct. i to May 31, 
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 2.00 j). m. 

(2) Providence, R. I., to Baltimore. — Steamers leave Providence 
for Baltimore, via Norfolk, Newport News, and West Point, every 
Wednesday and Saturday, 6.00 p. m. Returning, leave Baltimore 
every Monday and Friday, 2.00 p. m. 

(3) Baltimore to Savannah (p. iS). — Leave Baltimore tri-weekly 
(Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, 3.00 p. m.), stopping at Norfolk. 
The time is about three days. Returning, steamers leave Savannah 
same days, at high tide; time to Boston, six days. 

Route 7.— Old Dominion Line, New York to Norfolk. 

The Old Dominion Steamship Company runs daily lines of steam- 
ers between New York, Norfolk, Newport News, Old Point Comfort, 
Richmond, and West Point, Va. The favorite boats are the "James- 
town" and "Yorktown," 3,000 tons each, and the "Roanoke" and 
"Guyandotte," 2,400 tons each. All these are modern, fast, well- 
appointed, and well-manned screw-steamships, capable of per- 
forming a first-class ocean service. They leave New York from Pier 
26, North River, foot of Beach Street, and the general office of the 
company is on the pier. The steamers to Norfolk, Old Point, and 
Newport News depart five times a week, omitting Friday and Sun- 
day; those to Richmond, direct, on Monday, Wednesday, and Sat- 
urday; and those to West Point, direct, on Tuesday, Thursday, and 
Saturday, always at 3.00 p. m., except on Saturdays, at 4.00 p. m. 

The voyage begins by a daylight run down New York harbor, 
and Sandy Hook is left behind long before nightfall. The early 
morning finds the ship out of sight of land, but by breakfast time the 
lighthouses on the Virginia coast rise upon the horizon, and soon the 
vessel is heading into the broad entrance to Chesapeake Bay, between 
Cape Charles on the right and Cape Henry on the left; the Cape 
Charles lighthouse is en Smith's Island, but Cape Henry light stands 
upon the mainland, and the course is nearer the latter. Passing inside 
the capes, the expanse of Chesapeake Bay stretches northward, on 
the right, and the wooded shore of Princess Anne County, Virginia, 
on the left, guides the eye up to the mouth of the James River, which 



32 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN STATES. 

debouches through the narrows formed by Sewall Point on the south 
and Old Point Comfort on the north. The steamer steers toward the 
latter, past the dismantled island-fort Wool, on the ripraps (known as 
Fort Calhoun until the secession of the Southern States, whereby 
Calhoun became a traitor), and lands passengers on the Government 
pier, close to the Hygeia Hotel and Fortress Monroe. 

Old Point Comfort has been so called since the earliest coloniza- 
tion of Virginia (1606), but it is only a spit of sand almost wholl}^ 
occupied by the greatest of American fortifications — Fort Monroe. 
This is open to visitors, and ought to be inspected b^ everyone who 
has the opportunity; it always contains a large garrison, and is the 
seat of the Artillery School of the Army, where officers are given a 
post-graduate course of training in the theory and practice of gun- 
ner3^ and the science of fortification. There is usually a warship or 
two in the harbor to add further martial interest to the scene. The 
beauty of the situation and the extreme salubrity of the climate, 
especially in the trying months of spring, caused the erection here, 
long ago, of a great luxurious hotel, The Hygeia ($4), and more 
recently of a second. Chamberlain's ($5). A third hotel. The Sher- 
wood ($2), stands opposite the entrance to the fort. These hostelries, 
the climate, the bathing, military attractions, and easy accessibility, 
have combined to form one of the most charming and fashionable 
all-the-year-round watering places on the continent. There is daily 
communication with Baltimore, Washington, and Norfolk by water, 
and with the rest of the world by rail. The C. & O. Ry. has a termi- 
nal station on the mainland, a mile from Old Point, and runs through 
trains up the " peninsula of Virginia" — made memorable by McClel- 
lan's campaigns of 1863 — to Richmond and Gordonsville, Va., where 
it joins its main line from Washington to Cincinnati. The first station 
on this line is Hampton (Barnes, $2), the site of a National Ceme- 
tery and Soldiers' Home, and of a National Indian Training School. 
There is also an electric tramway from Old Point Comfort to Hamp- 
ton ( 5 cents), and from Hampton onward a few miles (10 cents) to 

Newport News {Hotel Warwick, $4; Point Breeze Hotel, special 
rates), the tide-water terminus of the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway, 
and a port of call for several lines of steamers; it has an extensive dry 
dock, vast coal pockets, grain elevators, and other facilities for com- 
merce, and possesses a ship-building yard in which several United 
States cruisers have been built, or are now building. 



Midway 'tr North and South. 

AN IDEAL WATERING PLACE. 




^^ 



afFOLDPoIrf 



HARRISON PHOEBUS, 

FOUNDER 



F.N.PIKE, 

MANAGER. 



100 V^F^DS FRO/A ^(^ 



OPEN ALL THE YEAR 



OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 38 

The Hotel Warwick is a well-appointed structure, open the year 
round, much frequented, especially in spring, by health and pleasure 
jeekers. The fishing and fall shooting is very good in this neighbor- 
tiood. In front of it, in the expanse of James River called Hampton 
Roads, the " Monitor " defeated the " Merrimac "(March 9, 1862), rev- 
pi utionizing naval warfare; and here, in 1863, McClellan assembled 
lis vast Army of the Potomac. The quaint name of this place comes 
Prom an incident of 1608, when John Smith's colony at Jamestown, 
starved and disheartened, had set out to return to England, but here 
received notice that Christopher Newport's ships were coming to 
:heir relief. 

Norfolk (pop., 40,000; New Atlantic $3; St. James, $3; Nor- 
folk, $2). Crossing Hampton Roads, the estuary of the James 
River, passing Craney Island (see below), and entering Elizabeth 
[River, thp steamer reaches Norfolk about twenty hours from New 
York. The wharf is at Lambert's Point, whence street-cars run to 
the hotels and all parts of the city. Norfolk is one of the oldest 
towns in the country, and is well worth a few hours' examinatior 
Its streets and water front, including old Fort Norfolk, built in iSi 
and old Fort Nelson opposite, are picturesque, and the newer parts 01 
the city show many fine residences. There is an extremely interest- 
ing Colonial (1730) church {St. PauTs) and churchyard, and the 
market should be visited. While the city has an extensive ship- 
ping-trade in lumber, coal, peanuts, oysters, fresh fruit, and early 
vegetables sent to Northern markets, its most valuable export is 
cotton, of v/hich it ships an amount next to Savannah; and the visitor 
should see the huge hydraulic cotton presses in which the bales are 
compressed to a third or fourth of their bulk in preparation for ship- 
ment. The neighborhood offers many interesting excursions, the 
principal one of which is to Virginia Beach, on the shore of the 
Atlantic, twenty miles east (reached in forty-five minutes several 
times daily in summer), where there is a large first-class hotel, the 
Princess An7ie ($3.50), and another, the Ocean Shore Park ($2.50), 
and every facility for surf-bathing and seaside enjoyment. Another 
older and very delightful resort, nearer Norfolk, is Ocean View 
(special rates) on the shore of Chesapeake Bay, reached by electric 
cars (seven minutes). The boating and fishing are excellent here; 
bathing in the comparatively quiet, but purely salt, water of the bay 
is abundantly provided for, and there is every provision, both for 
those who reside for long periods at the newly-fitted hotel, and for 
the large number who come out of town for a single day at the shore. 



34 G Ulni£ TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TE S. 

Portsmouth (pop., 15,000; St. Elmo, European plan) is on the 
opposite side of Elizabeth River, and connected with Norfolk by a 
ferry. It has the U. S. Marine Hospital — a conspicuous pillared 
edifice in an extensive grove, open to visitors, on the river bank — 
old Fort Nelson, and the Norfolk, or " Gosport'' Navy Yard, the 
largest and one of the oldest in the United States, a short walk from 
the ferry and free to visitors. Electric cars run from Portsmouth to 
Port Norfolk, to connect with the Atlantic & Danville and Norfolk 
& Carolina railways. 

In 1775, the Earl of Dunmore, then governor of Virginia, enraged 
at his subjects for having put into practice the plans proposed by the 
Virginia convention, and the organization of the militia, declared 
martial law, promised freedom to all slaves who should join him, 
and proceeded to lay waste the country about the Elizabeth River. 
The patriots rose against him, and courageously defeated his forces in 
twent3^-five minutes, at Great Bridge, a fortilied passage of the 
Uzabeth near the Dismal Swamp (December 9, 1775). Lord Dunmore 

reated to his fleet of war vessels in Norfolk harbor, but could pro- 
;e no provisions from the town, and was so annoyed by patriot shots, 
lat he bombarded the town (January i, 1776) ancl burned most of it. 
The Virginia militia removed the people, and the next month burned 
the remainder of the town that it might afford nothing to the British. 
Dunmore ravaged the coast, and then built a stockaded fort on 
Gwyne's Island, from which he was driven by the militia, and finally, 
after more destruction, went entirely away. 

On the I St of June, 1813, a British fleet under Admiral Warren 
entered the Chesapeake and attacked Norfolk, which was defended by 
Forts Norfolk and Nelson, on opposite sides of the Elizabeth River, 
the small forts. Tar and Barbour, and fortifications on Craney Island, 
five miles below the city. The frigate ' ' Constellation " and a flotilla of 
gunboats defended the water approaches. A British frigate, ' ' Junon," 
lay about three miles from the rest of the fleet, and one dark morn- 
ing (June 20, 1813) several gunboats surprised her and were only 
repulsed when two other British vessels came to her assistance. 
Immediately the royalist fleet moved into Hampton Roads and 
attempted, by a land force and barges, to capture Craney Island, 
but a terrible" cannonading sent the attacking troops back to their 
ships, and the Norfolk navy yard and the ' ' Constellation " were saved. 
The navy yard contained a great deal of valuable military property 
when the Civil War opened. On April 16, 1861, boats were sunk by 
the Confederates in the channel of Elizabeth River to prevent the 
Union vessels from getting out. The Federal Government, hearing 
of this, sent orders for the proper defense and care of the navy 5^ard, 
but Commodore McCauley was dilatory in following instructions. 
Two days later a Confederate commander prepared to seize the 
navy yard. The workmen and southern -born ofiicers deserted to 
the Confederacy and McCauley scuttled all of the ships except the 



New Atlantic Hotel 



NORFOLK, VIRGINIA. 



R. S. DODSON, Proprietor. 
R. A. DODSON, Manager. 



Especial 

Attention 

of 

Tourists 

and 

Invalids 

is called 

to the 

Fine 

Climate 

of 

Norfolk 



m 
m 
m 



Wf. 



w?. 



w<?. 



Wp. 



Wf. 



Wf. 






Five Stairways 

Three Iron Fire Escapes 

Accommodations for 

1,000 Guests 

^/ 
/|\ 

Electric Lights 

throughout the Hotel, 

Electric Bells, Elevators, 

Hot and Cold Baths 






Liberal Arrangements made 

with families and parties 

by the week or month. 

Rates per day, 

32.50 to 34 



OCEAN STEAMSHIP ROUTES. 85 

"Cumberland." The slowly sinking ships were burned by Captain 
Paulding (Nat.), who had just arrived and who also set fire to other 
inflammable property in the navy yard on land, seeing that he could 
not protect it with his small number of troops. The Confederates, 
upon the withdrawal of the Union troops, entered the yard and saved 
a great share of the property, afterward raising the "Merrimac" 
and " Plymouth," forming them into iron-clads. The insurgents also 
took possession of Norfolk and Portsmouth, but were forced to sur- 
render them May lo, 1862, blowing up the ram " Merrimac" with a 
slow match, as they retreated. 

To Richmond and West Point. — The Old Dominion Company's 
steamers from New York to Richmond pass up the James River, no 
miles above Old Point, and thus give the passengers an excellent view 
of this winding river, whose banks have witnessed so long and 
interesting a chapter in American history. The old site of Janies- 
tozvn (42 m. above Old Point), Capt. John Smith's first settlement 
(1607), is pointed out. City Poiiit (78 m.), the headquarters of 
Grant's campaigns against Richmond, and the landing for Peters- 
burg (p, 43), twelve miles distant by rail, and many other places 
and battle-grounds made familiar by the Civil War are seen. The 
time from New York to Richmond is about thirty-four hours. 

For steamer " Pocahontas," between Norfolk and Richmond, see 
p. 40. 

The Old Dominion steamers to West Point sail up the York 
River, passing close by Yorktown, where the surrender of Cornwallis 
(October 19, 1781) decided the War of the Revolution, and where a 
second great conflict took place during the peninsular campaign of 
the Civil War. West Point (pop., 2,000; Terminal, $2.50) is at the 
head of the inlet called York River, and is the northern tidewater 
terminus of the Southern Railway. The line thence, sixty-five 
miles through the famous Chickahominy swamps, is part of the 
great combination of Southern railroads, formerly known as the 
Richmond & Danville, and since 1893 as the Southern Railway. 
Steamers on the Mattaponi River make two trips a week between 
West Point and Walkerton. 

Route 8.— "Bay Line "Route, Baltimore and Norfolk. 

The large and splendidly furnished steamboats of the Bay Line 
(Baltimore Steam Packet Company), long noted for the fine meals 
served, leave Baltimore every evening, except Sunda}^ (Canton Dock, 
B. & O. Rd., 6.30 p. m.; Union Dock, Penn. Rd., 7.00 p. m.), 



36 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TES. 

in connection with the arrival of designated trains from the north, 
which run directly to the steamer landing, and arrive at Old Point 
Comfort and Norfolk early the next morning. Through tickets are 
issued to all principal points in the South. Northward-bound steam- 
ers leave Norfolk every evening at 6.30, and Old Point Comfort 
at 7.30, reaching Baltimore at 7.00 a. m. 

Route 9.— TVashington and Norfolk Steamlboats. 

1. Night Line. — A steamer of the Norfolk & Washington (D. C.) 
Steamboat Company leaves Washington (7th Street AVharf , 7th Street 
electric cars) every day at 7.00 p. m. , reaching Old Point Comfort at 6.30 
a. m. next day, and Norfolk at 7.30. Returning, leaves Norfolk 6.10 
p. m. ; Old Point, 7.30 p. m., and arrives in Washington at 6.30 a. m. 
In summer the scenery of the Potomac, near Washington and Mount 
Vernon, and that of Hampton Roads, are both visible. 

2. Day Line. — The new steamer ' ' Newport News " leaves Wash, 
ington Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday at 8.00 a. m., and, 
returning, leaves Norfolk Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 7,45 
p. m. , and Sunday at 8.00 p. m. , giving a daylight trip on the Potomac 
River which is an interesting and enjoyable experience. 

This steamer passes in full view of all the historical points in the 
history of our country, such as Alexandria, Fort Foote, Fort Wash- 
ington, Mount Vernon, the home and resting-place of Washington ; 
Indian Head, now used as the proving-ground for heavy ordnance by 
the Government ; Evansport, Acquia Creek, and Mathias Point, on 
the Virginia shore, where heavy batteries were erected by the Con- 
federate army during the late war ; Wakefield, the birthplace of 
Washington, and Point Lookout, on the Maryland shore, used as a 
prison for Confederate prisoners of war. Both night and day steamers 
connect at Norfolk with all early trains for Virginia Beach and Ocean 
View and the South. 



II. 

RAILROAD ROUTES EAST OF THE 
ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. 



Route lO.— Cape Charles Route to Norfolk. 

This line, with through cars from New York by the Pennsylvania 
Rd., leaves the trunk-line (Pennsylvania Rd.) at Wilmington, Del., 
and turns southward. It passes through Dover, the capital of 
Delaware, and then on through the peach-growing districts of 
Southern Delaware and the "Eastern Shore" of Virginia. This 
peninsula (Accomac), between Chesapeake Bay and the Atlantic, was 
one of the earlier-settled districts of the United States, and retains 
many picturesque relics of former times. At King's Ferry a branch 
road diverges to Chrisfield, a famous oystering region on the bay. 
The lower part of the peninsula is highly attractive to sportsmen, 
and much frequented by them and by summer sea-shore resi- 
dents. The railroad terminates at Cape Charles (95 m.), near the 
extremity of the northern of the two capes of Virginia, where a 
steamer is waiting for the ferriage to Old Point Comfort (two hours) 
and Norfolk (three hours). The steamers are models of comfort and 
luxury, and elegant meals are served aboard of them. The landing at 
Old Point is at the Government Pier, and at Norfolk at the principal 
wharf, close to the Portsmouth ferry and railway stations. Through 
tickets are issued by this pleasant route between Northeastern cities 
and all principal Southern points. (For Norfolk and connections 
southward, see p. 33.) 

Route 11. —Routes from Norfolk or Portsmouth. 

I. Down the North Carolina Coast. — The Norfolk & Southern 
Railroad extends south from Norfolk along the coasts of Albemarle 
and Pamlico sounds in North Carolina, and manages numerous 

(37) 



38 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

steamboats plying upon those inland waters which offer remarkable 
attractions to the sportsman. AtSnowden (31 m.) conveyances are 
taken for Currituck Sound, ioxnoM^ for duck-shooting; at Elizabeth 
City (45 m.) connection is made with a good steamer (sailing Mon- 
day, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, 6.00 p. m.) for Roanoke and 
New Berne (see below); and at Edeiiton, with steamers to Roanoke 
River and Windsor (daily) ; Scuppernong River (Monday and Friday) ; 
Chowan River (Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday), and to Salmon 
Creek (Wednesday). Albemarle Sound (fresh water) is here crossed 
by a ferry, when the train proceeds to Belhaven, where a steamer 
departs (Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday mornings) for Washing- 
ton and various landings on Pamlico River and Sound. 

Currituck Sound may also be reached by water from Norfolk, by 
ascending the south branch of Elizabeth River (15 m.), through the 
edge of the Dismal Swamp (p. 77), passing through the Albemarle 
Canal (8 m.) and then along a narrow, tortuous watercourse (15 
m.)to the head of the sound. Irregular steamboats make the trip, 
which is of especial interest to sportsmen in the wildfowling season. 
These inland routes offer an unusual and pleasant route not only 
to New Berne, Beaufort, and Morehead City, but also to Wibniiig- 
ton, N. C. , since connection is made at New Berne with the Wilming- 
ton, New Berne & Norfolk Railroad to and from that city, Kinston, 
Goldsboro, etc. 

New Berne (pop., 8,000; Albert, $2; Chattawkwa, $2) is a quaint 
old town, engaged in trade and fisheries, and showing inany 
of the beauties characteristic of all the Southern seaports. It was 
the scene of stirring events in the early part of the Civil War (p. 39), 
when it and Beaufort were precious to the Confederates as ports for 
blockade-runners, for which the intricacies of these sounds formed an 
excellent refuge. New Berne is at the head of sea-going navigation 
on Neuse River, the outlet of which is through Pamlico at either Ocra- 
coke or Hatteras inlets, to the northward, or by Core and Bogue sounds 
and the inlets south of Cape Lookout. On the mainland, thirty-five 
miles southeast of New Berne, near the outlet of these last-named 
sounds, are the two towns Beaufort and Morehead City, separated 
by narrow bays from each other and from the outer ocean beaches. 
Beaufort (pop., 2,500; Davis, $2) is a beautiful old town, where 
fishing, duck-shooting, and boating can be greatly enjoyed. More- 
head is mainly a summer resort, wdth facilities for surf-bathing and 



ROUTES EAST OP ALLEGHANY MOUNTALNS. 39 

seaside amusements, and having several hotels frequented by fami- 
lies from the interior of the State, of which the principal one is 
The Athmtic{%i.^o). 

Historical. — Some of the earliest and most adventurous history of 
the United States attaches to these waters and shores, and especially to 
Roanoke Island, which, lying in the tidal narrows between Albemarle 
and Pamlico sounds, occupies a strategic position. Here the various 
expeditions sent out from England by Sir Walter Raleigh, between 
1584 and 15S8, to the coast he named " Virginia," made their head- 
quarters, and attempted settlements which w^ere soon withdrawn. 
When, later, colonies were planted along the James River, this, region 
came to be included and was frequently visited, and one may therefore 
say that these sounds have been inhabited, by white men for 250 
years. The island had small interest for the public, however, until 
the War of Secession brought it again into public view. Its strategic 
value as a coast defense was early perceived; and it was strongly for- 
tified by the Confederates in the hope of preserving these safe 
inland waters as refuges for blockade-runners. In February, 1862, a 
large fleet of National gunboats, commanded by Com. L. M. Golds- 
borough, convoying transports loaded with troops under Gen. A. E. 
Burnside, sailed through Hatteras Inlet and assembled in Croatan 
Sound, north of the island. It was defended by a flotilla of small 
gunboats (Confederate), which were soon disposed of, by Fort Bar- 
tow, a strong work at the northern end of the island, and by a forti- 
fied camp in the center of the island. The gunboats reduced the 
flotilla and Fort Bartow to silence, and troops were landed who, after 
a slow and severe fight, captured all the land-works and made pris- 
oners of the garrison. The loss of this island was very serious to the 
Confederates. The flotilla fled up Pamlico Sound, but was caught 
and destroyed, and land batteries near Elizabeth City were captured. 
This was the first Union operation in North Carolina. (For the sequel 
see p. 44.) 

2. Norfolk & Carolina Rd. — From Norfolk and Portsmouth, via 
Suffolk, for Kelford, Tarboro, and Rocky Mount {connection for Atlan- 
tic Coast Line), and Washington, Plymouth, Kinston, and New Berne. 
This penetrates the turpentine-producing pineries of Eastern North 
Carolina, and reaches many coast points. 

It also penetrates the great vegetable and fruit raising;, or 
"truck" district, which now yields a very important part of the 
revenue of the State. 

"The best district is around New Berne, where there are 8,000 
acres planted in strawberries, asparagus, green peas, cabbages, 
beans, kale, turnips, Irish potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants, 
radishes, etc. During the shipping season the railroad has run 
from one to three trains a day from this district, and two steamers 



40 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

have made five trips a week laden with the produce. It is said, 
as a result of careful calculation, that this New Berne section 
realized $750,000 from its produce in 1891, and the farmers netted 
$500,000. Wilmington, Elizabeth City, and Goldsboro are other large 
shipping points for other districts". — Julian Ralph, In Harper's 
Magazine, January, 1895. 

3. Atlantic & Danville Rd. — A direct line to Danville, Va, 

(p. 58), 205 miles across the southern tier of counties, given up 
mainly to tobacco growing, but showing large tracts of level, 
uncultivated land, covered with sparse pine-woods. The principal 
stations are Suffolk and Belfield (junction with Atlantic Coast 
Line). Through connections are made at Danville. 

4. To Richmond, Lynchburg, and Roanoke, Va. — Norfolk & 
Western Rd. (See Route i6a.) 

5. To Richmond by River, — The Virginia Navigation Company 
runs the large, new, and handsome steamer " Pocahontas" between 
Norfolk and Richmond, leaving Norfolk on Tuesday, Thursday, and 
Saturday, and Richmond on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 
7.00 a. m., and reaching each destination at 5.00 p. m. This steamer 
calls at Fortress Monroe, Newport News, and all the river land- 
ings, and offers a very comfortable and interesting journey. 

For the Old Do7nzmon Lme to Rzckmo?id, see p. 35. 

Route 12.— Seaboard Air Line. 

The Seaboard Air Line is a route from Washington and from 
Norfolk, via Raleigh, N. C, to Atlanta, Ga. It claims to be the short- 
est through-car line between Washington and Atlanta. Through 
tickets are sold between New York and Atlanta, and points west 
and south, all rail, or via sea to Norfolk; and solid vestibuled trains 
run between both northern terminals and Atlanta. 

From Washington the course is via the Atlantic Coast Line 
(Route 13) to Weldon, N. C. From Norfolk (Portsmouth) the train runs 
southwest through Franklin (connection with steamers on Chowan, 
Blackwater, and Roanoke rivers, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday) 
to Weldon (p. 44). Here the train is consolidated with that from 
Washington, and proceeds southwest toward Raleigh, passing Little- 
ton {Panacea Springs, Bon Air, and other hotels, $1.50 to $2) and 
Henderson, whence a branch runs to Durham (p. 42) and connects 
through to Greensboro. 

Raleigh (pop., 15,000; The Park, $3; Yarborough, $2.50; Central, 



ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTALNS. 41 

$2) is the capital of North Carolina, and occupies high ground 
(alt., 316 feet) among the sources of the Neuse River, selected in 
1 791 for its central and healthful situation. 

This city is one in which the people feel great local pride. In 
the center of the town stands the State House, surrounded by 
Union Square, whence shaded streets lead to pleasant residence 
quarters and well-built business ■ streets. Raleigh's business is 
principally in naval stores, tobacco, agricultural "implements, and 
country merchandise. There are three cotton mills, a car works, 
and several machine shops and widely-known candy factories. The 
town is noted for its educational institutions, comprising St. Marfs 
College, in the midst of large grounds; the Shaw University 
(colored); a College of Agricultural and Mechanic Arts, supported by 
the State, and the State Geological Museum, in which the remark- 
able mineral wealth of the State is fully displayed. The State 
Prison and State Insane Asylum are also here. 

Southward from. Raleigh the Seaboard Air Line traverses a gen- 
eral agricultural and tobacco-growing region to Sanford (junction 
with C. F. & Y. V. Rd. to Wilmington), and thence a more forested 
and sandy region, producing mainly lumber, ties, and naval 
stores. In the midst of these high, dry "pine barrens" (70 m. from Ral- 
eigh) has recently sprung up, around the railway company's new 
Piney Woods Hotel ($3), a village called Sout/iei'n Pines, devoted 
to healthseekers and winter tourists. The locality has an altitude of 
600 feet, and the sanitar}^ advantages characterizing these long-leaf 
pine uplands from here to Middle Georgia. At Hamlet, a few miles 
farther, the road crosses lines to Wilmington, N. C, and Florence, 
S. C.,and turns west to Monroe. This is a town of 3,000 population 
(Stewart, $2), whence a branch of the Seaboard Air Line proceeds 
west to Charlotte (p. 66), Lincolnton, and Rutherf ordton , at the base 
of the Blue Ridge, in the midst of a region of small summer resorts 
described under Route 15. From Monroe the through line turns 
southward through the beautiful uplands of South Carolina, where 
Tarleton raided and Marion resisted in i779-'Si, passing C//^;'^- /"<:';' (rail- 
road north to Asheville), Greenwood (branch to Augusta, Ga.), and 
Abbeville, S. C. This is the region through which Sherman's legions 
swept, almost without opposition, after they had left Columbia, in 
February, 1865 ; and at Cheraw, a few miles south of Hamlet and 
Wadesboro, they found great quantities of military and private stores, 
which had been sent there for safe-keeping at the arsenal ; but 
nothing was safe in " S^cessia" that spring, and everything of mili- 



42 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

tary value, including many things good to eat and drink, were 
destroyed. The route then crosses the Savannah River into Georgia, 
and passing through Elberton to Athens {^o^., 10,000; Commercial, 
$2.50; Palmer, special rates; Victoria, $2.50), a pleasant old town and 
the seat of the State University, whence the course is west (75 m.) to 
Atlanta (p. 119). Distance, Washington to Atlanta, 729 miles. 

Route 12a — Raleigh to Greensboro. 

This is an old road through the heart of the vState. As far as Gary 
it runs beside the Seaboard Air Line, then turns west to Durham 
(pop., 8,500; Carolina, $2.50). This is in the midst of the best tobacco- 
growing region of the State, and has an important tobacco market and 
factories, of which the principal are Blackall's and Duke's, making cig- 
arettes and smoking tobacco. There are also large woolen factories 
and turpentine interests. Three railroads from the north converge 
here. A few miles west is Hillsboro (pop., 2,000; Ococoneechee, $2), 
near which is the State University, among beautiful hills; and the road 
terminates at Greensboro (82 m. from Raleigh), where connections are 
made with the Piedmont Air Line and many mountain resorts. 

Historical. — This part of the State witnessed the closing scenes 
of the Rebellion. When Sherman, having captured Savannah, 
Columbia, and Charleston (spring, 1865), led his army northward, 
driving before him all opposition, the scattered forces of the Confed- 
erates concentrated into the Army of North Carolina, commanded by 
Gen. Joseph E. Johnston. Sherman marched with great rapidity to 
Fa^^etteville (p. 46), having cavalry skirmishes on the way, and 
destroying the arsenal and military stores at that place. His left 
wing, sweeping forward under Slocum, came up with Hardee (Conf.), 
who had escaped from Savannah and was entrenched with 20,000 men 
at Averasboro, twenty-five miles northeast of Fayette ville. At first 
the Confederates repulsed the National troops, but next day, after a 
furious battle in the swamps, Hardee was forced out of his works and 
retreated in the night (March 16) toward Smithfield, where J. E. 
Johnston then lay with the whole army. Sherman moved on toward 
Goldsboro, feeling secure, when he was unexpectedly attacked by 
Johnston, who had stealthily moved his whole army forward. The 
Federal troops were scattered, unwarned, and floundered in muddy 
roads and swampy woods (March 19) about Bentonville, on the Neuse 
River, twenty miles west of Goldsboro. They rallied, and both sides 
fought with desperate energy all day, for each army realized that its 
fate rested upon the result ; and many of Sherman's men regarded 
this as the most furious and doubtful battle of the whole history of 
Sherman's army. Darkness closed the conflict, and during the night 
Sherman's troops were reinforced by concentration. The next day 




.f" 



1^0 UTES EAST OF ALLEGHA N V MO UN TA INS. 43 

(March 20) the battle was renewed and waged all day, but by evening 
the armies of Scofield, from Wilmington, and of Cox, from New Berne, 
had united with Sherman, who had also flanked the Confedsrates. 
Learning this, Johnston hastily fled to Smithfield and gathered his 
30,000 men into entrenchments, while Sherman halted his legions at 
Goldsboro until April loth, when he moved against the enemy. His 
approach was cautious, but he was pressing Johnston vigorously 
backward, when the tidings of Lee's surrender at Appomattox was 
brought. Johnston was then at Durham, and, on April 14th, opened 
negotiations to surrender his army. The two commanders met on 
April 17th at Durham, but Johnston would not accept the terms given 
by Grant to Lee without a concession which Sherman could only 
refer to Washington. The Government refused it, and sent Grant to 
Durham, who announced that unless the original terms proposed by 
Sherman were accepted within twenty -four hours, an attack would 
follow, and a surrender of all the troops in the Department of the 
Carolinas was at once made (April 26) by General Johnston. Nothing 
remained of the " Confederacy " except a few loose fragments in the 
southwest, which were speedily gathered in. 

Route 13.— Atlantic Coast Line. 

This is a long-established railway route, by which sleeping-cars 
are run between New York and Aiken, Augusta, Atlanta, Macon, 
Savannah, Charleston, Jacksonville, St. Augustine, and Tampa, 

via Washington and Richmond. This line has the merit of speed, 
regularity, and an equipment and discipline of long standing, and is 
the route of the solid vestibuled train known as the " New York and 
Florida Special." Through tickets can be obtained between New 
England and New York and all Southern and Southwestern points. 

From Washington (Pennsylvania Railroad station, Pennsylvania 
Avenue and Sixth Street) trains cross the Potomac (Long Bridge) to 
Alexandria, and go thence through Fredericksburg, on the Rappa- 
hannock River, to Richmond, Va. ; but it does not fall within the pur- 
pose of the present book to describe this part of the country in detail. 
Richmond is well worth a tourist's visit; and a new hotel. The Jeff- 
erson ($5), is now open. It is a seven-story, handsome building, on 
Main Street at the corner of Jefferson, is modern and beautiful in all 
respects, and will be equal to the best of the Southern hotels. After 
the State House has been visited, the remainder of the time can be 
profitably spent in driving through the historic and beautiful suburbs. 
Leaving Richmond the train crosses the James and Belle Isle, and 
runs south to Petersburg (pop., 24,000). 

This interesting old city, now prosperous as a center of iron- 



44 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

working and the manufacture of chewing-tobacco, chiefly for export, 
was almost destroyed by the Civil War, whose closing and bloodiest 
scenes were enacted during the long sieges and bombardment of its 
fortifications in 1864 and 1865. It is an easy matter to reach " the 
crater "and other places of special historical interest, and to go 
thence (12 m.) to the James River and visit the scenes in the neigh- 
borhood of City Point, and Bermuda Hundred, etc. , the center of 
Grant's extensive operations. The Norfolk & Western Railway 
(Route 1 6a) runs east and west from here. 

From Petersburg the Coast Line runs nearly due south, crossing 
the A. & D. Rd. (p. 40) at Bellfield to Weldon (pop., 1,500; Atlantic 
Coast Line, $3), a market town and railway center just within the 
boundary of North Carolina, whence lines diverge to Norfolk, 
Raleigh (97 m.), and the coast towns. 

This railroad was of vast importance to the Confederates as a 
source of supplies for the armies defending Richmond and Peters- 
burg, and during the final campaigns strenuous efforts were made by 
the Union commanders to destroy it. An attempt in force in June, 
1864, failed, but three months later a large section of the track north 
of Weldon was captured and torn up. 

The line continues south through a flat country, nearly covered 
with pine woods, from which great quantities of turpentine and 
resin are obtained. Halifax (the provincial capital before North 
Carolina became a State), Enfield, and Rocky Mount are the principal 
stations. At South Rocky Mount is a railway restaurant. 

Route 13a. — To Goldsboro and Wilmington ; Wilmington. 

At Wilson the main line of the Wilmington & Weldon Rd. strikes 
straight south (24 m.) to Goldsboro (pop. , 4,500; Hennon, $2.50), a 
market town and railway crossing on Neuse River, with roads west 
to Smithfield and Raleigh, and east to Kinston and New Berne. 
It was a point of military importance early in the Civil War and 
again at its close, as described on the preceding page. 

North Carolina was very reluctant to secede from the Union, but 
was forced out by the pressure of South Carolina and Virginia. The 
sentiment that favored secession, however, was principally in these 
coast counties, and the ports were quickly fortified. In 1861 Pamlico 
Sound and its ports were taken possession of by the Union navy 
(p. 39), and troops were landed who held the coast. The force was 
small, however, and during 1862 the Confederates made repeated 
efforts to overcome it. One very sharp engagement took place at 
Washington in September. The Federal general, J. G. Foster, having 
been reinforced, became aggressive. In December, 1862, he marched 



ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. 45 

on Goldsboro, meeting steady opposition, especially at Kinston, 
where (December 14th) a force of 6,000 rebels was defeated. He him- 
self was repulsed at Goldsboro, and returned to New Berne, but he 
was successful in inflicting great losses on the enemy and capturing 
many prisoners. In March, Gen. D. H. Hill (Confederate) retaliated 
by attacking the Union positions, and severe battles were fought at 
New Berne and Washington, but in April he was forced to retreat. 
This was followed by expeditions in various directions inland, which 
soon placed the whole region under Federal control. (See also p. 42.) 

South of Goldsboro the line pursues a direct course down the level 
wooded valley of the northeastern branch of Cape Fear River to 
Wilmington. This city (pop., 21,000; Orton, $3.50; Purcell) is 
one of the oldest (dating from 1733), and now the most important, 
in North Carolina. It is twenty-five miles from the sea, at the head 
of the deep inlet receiving Cape Fear River and several smaller 
streams, and protected by Smith's Island, the seaward extremity of 
which is Cape Fear. The city is well laid out and has some fine old 
residences, but not much else to attract the tourist save as an im- 
portant shipping port for lumber (pitch-pine), naval stores, produce, 
and cotton (202,270 bales exported 1894-5). It was of great impor- 
tance to the Confederacy as a port for blockade-runners, and was 
retained longer than any other seaport by reason of the strength of 
its fortifications, especially Fort Fisher, at the mouth of the river, 
which was not reduced until a very powerful naval expedition, accom- 
panied by land forces, was directed against it at the end of 1864. A 
heavy bombardment from the vessels preceded an attempt to 
destroy the water-side works by exploding close to them an old hulk 
loaded with 430,000 pounds of powder, which did little damage. 
Two weeks later a very carefully planned combined assault was 
made by both ships and land troops, and the fort was taken after a 
desperate resistance. The fall of Wilmington, the last seaport of the 
Confederates, speedily followed. These old forts, Wrightsville 
(hotels) and the Island Beach Z/"*?/^/ (surf -bathing, etc.), are reached 
by a daily excursion steamer from the city. Wilmington has a 
delightful winter climate. 

Railroads radiate from Wilmington: 

(i) North to New Berjie (Route 11). 

(2) North to Goldsboro, Raleigh, and west (Route 13a). 

(3) Northwest to Fayetteville and Greensboro (C. F. & Y. V. Rd). 

(4) Northwest by Carolina Central Railway and Seaboard Air 

Line to Hamlet, Charlotte, and Columbia, 



46 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

(5) 'V^ est to Florence and Columbia, S. C. This, with No. 2, forms 
an alternative north-and-south route of the Atlantic Coast Line, 
whose general offices are in Wilmington. 

Coast Line (resumed). — Wilson to Florence, S. C. 

From Wilson (p. 44) the through line proceeds southwest through 
Selma (crossing of railroad between Raleigh and Goldsboro) and 
Smithfield, along the course of Sherman's advance in 1865 (p. 43), to 
Fayetteville (pop., 4,500; Lafayette, $2.50; Overbaugh, $2). This 
is a brisk town on Cape Fear River, dealing in farming supplies and 
naval stores. Here crosses the C. F. & Y. V. Ry. from Wilmington 
to Greensboro, and a branch of the same leads southwest to Ben- 
netsville and onward into Central South Carolina. The town for- 
merly contained a United States arsenal, w^hich w^as conveniently 
stocked with arms and ammunition by Buchanan's disloyal Secre- 
tary of War, Floyd, in preparation for its seizure by the seces- 
sionists in 1861, and which was destroyed by Sherman in 1865. 
At Pembroke the Carolina Central Rd., from Wilmington to Ham- 
let, is crossed, beyond which the train soon enters South Caro- 
lina, crosses the Pee Dee River, and reaches Florence (pop., 5,000; 
Central, $2.50), a local cotton market and railway junction, whence 
lines radiate to all parts of the State. The principal of these is 

Route 13b.— Florence to Augusta, Atlanta, and Macon. 

This route proceeds from Florence west through Sumter (pop. , 
6,000; Snares, $2), a railway center, cotton market, and winter resort. 
A railway continues straight west (43 m.) to Columbia (p. 54), and is 
the most direct route to Camden (pop., 4,000; Hobkirk Inn, special 
rates; DeKalb, $2) by the way of Camden Junction (12 m. west of Sum- 
ter), and north twenty-six miles on the S. C. & Ga. Rd. This is a 
winter resort of high local repute as a healthful and pleasant place, 
having an unusually favorable climate for invalids, and excellent 
hotels. It can also be reached by the Seaboard Air Line from Har- 
mony, or the Piedmont Air Line from Blacksburg. 

From Sumter the Coast Line proceeds south of west across the 
middle of the State to Aiken and Augusta (via Denmark), and thence 
to Macon and Atlanta. The country all along this line is much 
the same — moderately elevated, sandy, largely covered with forests 
of pine interspersed with small oaks, and having a dry, moderate. 



kOUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. Al 

equable climate, healthful at all seasons, and in winter of great value 
to invalids, especially those with pulmonary weakness, on account 
of its mildness and the dryness and restorative quality of the air. 
Good sport for the gun is obtainable in the autumn almost anywhere. 
Historically, it is full of reminiscences of the Revolutionary cam- 
paigns of Cornwallis, Greene, and Marion; and the eastern part was 
swept by Sherman's troops in 1865. Tw^enty miles southwest the 
Santee River is crossed at Rimini, and twenty -four miles farther is 
Orangeburg, the junction of a line from Charleston to Columbia, 
and the scene of a battle, in February, 1865, in which Sherman's 
troops drove the Confederates out of their intrenchments and back 
toward Charleston. The place was important to the Union com- 
mander only because it severed the railroad connection between the 
Confederate forces at Charleston and Columbia; and consequently 
this railroad and all the cotton and military property of the place 
were destroyed. The Florida Short Line is then crossed at Denmark, 
forty miles beyond which is Aiken. 

Aiken is 520 feet above the sea, in the midst of pine woods grow- 
ing in almost pure sand, and in a dry, bracing, and beneficial climate 
remarkable for the proportion of sunny days. The principal recrea- 
tions are driving, shooting (deer and game-birds), and fox-hunting with 
hounds. The leading hotels are the Highland Park ($4) and Park 
Avejiiie ($3); the former, in the midst of very large grounds, has its 
own livery service, dairy-farm, etc., and is modern and luxurious in 
every respect. Lesser hotels are the West View, Busch, and York ($2 
each); boarding-houses are numerous. Aiken is also reached from the 
north and west via the Southern Railway, and directly from the 
south and southwest via Augusta. 

Augusta (pop., 50,000; Bon Air, $5; Arlington, $3; Planters, $2.50) 
stretches for three or four miles along the right bank of the Savannah, 
250 miles above its mouth, and is the center of one of the most popu- 
lous, prosperous, and attractive districts of the South. Its streets are 
very broad, straight, and well shaded; its business houses long estab- 
lished and well housed, and its residences costly and attractive. The 
principal thoroughfare is Broad Street, 165 feet wide and three miles 
long, paved wnth asphalt, ornamented by the Confederate Monument, 
and having the trunk-line of electric cars with ramifications to all 
parts of the city and suburbs. Greene Street, two squares south and 
parallel, is the principal residence street; it is 168 feet wide, has two 
paved roadways divided by a central line of parks, and magnificent, 
shade trees along its whole length. The climate is dry, so that the 



4B G UTDE TO SO U THE A S TERM S TA TE S. 

heat of summer is not so debilitating as on the coast, and in winter 
is sunny, with frequent frosts and occasional light snow — as health- 
ful as possible. The pure and abundant water supply comes from 
the upper Savannah River. 

Augusta was founded \ij Oglethorpe and is one of the oldest 
towns in the South. During the Revolution it was seized by the 
British, and in 1781 was held by Lieut. -Col. Brown, a very cruel Tory, 
whom the Patriots were anxious to capture. The garrison was 
invested (May 20) by Pickens, Lee, and Clarke, who next day cap- 
tured Fort Galphin twelve miles below the city. Brown refused to 
surrender for a long time, and was besieged until at last, hearing 
that a great assault was to be made, he gave up the city. During 
the Civil War it was a depot of supplies, centering about the U. S. 
Arsenal (established there in 1831) and clothing factories, and when 
Sherman entered Georgia, in 1865, it was heavily garrisoned; but he 
avoided it (p. 109) and left it to fall by its own weight. Since the 
war it has grown as a trading center, has become an extensive cotton 
market, where the crop of thirty-five counties (200,000 bales) is 
received and baled in huge presses for export. The water-power of 
the Savannah is very great, and has been made available by a lately 
completed canal, built by the city at a cost of $2,000,000; it is 7 miles 
long, 150 feet wide, and 14 deep, and pays well. This has promoted 
manufacturing in various directions, chiefly of cotton goods, thirteen 
or more cotton mills now producing more unbleached cotton goods than 
any other city in the country — about $10,000,000 worth annually. 

The suburbs afford delightful drives and pleasure resorts. Of 
these the principal is Summerville Heights, three miles west (electric 
cars), where a hilltop (alt., 750 ft.) among the pines was chosen long 
ago as a site for a U. S. Arsenal and small military post. Here dwell 
many citizens, and there are numerous hotels and boarding-houses 
resorted to, especially in winter, by a large company of healthseekers 
and pleasure travelers from both north and south. The principal 
house. Hotel Bon Air, is a very large, handsome, and well-appointed 
hotel, furnished and conducted in the best manner for the accommo- 
dation of this special and exacting class of clients. The water used 
is supplied from a great spring, and resembles the Poland water. 
The winter climate is that of Central California, without the piercing 
winds of the Pacific Coast. (Compare Aiken, p. 47.) 

Railways radiate from Augusta as follows: 
(i) North to Andersojt, Greenville, and Seneca (Route 14). 

(2) Northeast to Columbia. Sleeping-car to Charlotte and con- 
nections northward via Southern Railway (Route 14). 

(3) Eastward to Florence. Atlantic Coast Line (Route 13). 

(4) Southeastward to Charleston (p. 14). 

(5) Southeastward to Beaufort (Route 13c). 

(6) Southward to Savannah (p. 21). 



ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. 49 

(7) South westward to Gibson, Wrightsville, etc. 

(8) Westward to Macon and Atlanta. — This is the continuation of 
the Coast Line route, with through sleeping-cars between New York 
and Atlanta and Macon. It runs west to Catnak, where the line 
diverges to Millcdgeville (formerly capital of Georgia, and once 
the seat of Jefferson Davis' government), and thence to Macon (p. 122). 
The route to Atlanta is via Madison, and passes along the old line 
of the Georgia Railroad, through an agricultural region, swept by- 
Sherman's *' March to the Sea," in November, 1864, The stations in 
the suburbs of Atlanta stand upon the ground over which most of 
the fighting was done in the capture of the city — the field of the 
"Battle of Atlanta" (p. 118). The distance from Washington to 
Atlanta by this route is 740 miles. Tickets are also sold by this route 
to New Orleans, over Routes 25 and 28 from Atlanta. The distance 
from Washington to Macon this way is 695 miles; to Atlanta, 741 miles. 

Atlantic Coast Line (resumed).— Florence to Jacksonville and 
New Orleans. 

Turning somewhat southward from Florence, the Coast Line 
passes through an agricultural region exhibiting many relics of the 
old-time plantation regime, 102 miles to Charleston (p. 10). On this 
journey Black River is crossed at Kingstree, and a few miles farther 
the railroad from Sumter to Georgetown, a seaport at the mouth of 
the Black. (Georgetown is also reached twice a week by steamboats 
from Cojtway, the terminus of a branch of the Coast Line from 
Chadburn, a station eleven miles west of Wilmington, on the road to 
Florence.) A little farther the train crosses the Santee River, and 
near Macbeth, thirty-five miles north of Charleston, spans the Santee 
Canal, which permits boat navigation from the upper Santee into 
Cooper River. 

Charleston to Savannah is the next stage (102 m.), through a 
level coast-country, marshy, cut by many muddy rivers and inlets, 
and showing forests of moss-draped oak and cypress. At Yemassee, 
on the Salkehatchie River, the railroad from Augusta to Beaufort and 
Port Royal (25 m. south) is crossed. 

Route 13c.— To Beaufort and Port Royal. 

This southern end of the coast of South Carolina is deeply indented 
by two navigable inlets. The northernmost is St. Helena Sound, 
receiving the Edisto and other rivers, and, some distance southward. 



50 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

Port Royal Sound. Between the two is an archipelago of very fertile 
islands, producing cotton, rice, and sugar cane abundantly, and the 
site of the earliest civilization in the State. The outermost of these 
is Hilton Head Island, which became famous in the Civil War (see 
below), and before that was noted as the place where sea-island 
cotton was first grown as a successful crop (1790). Beaufort (pop. , 
4,000) is a quaint, old-fashioned, and delightful seaport, resorted to 
by a fashionable Southern company in summer, who find excellent 
accommodations in the Sea Island Hotel ($3) and Hotel Albemarle 
(special rates). 

The Spaniards had sailed up this coast as early as 1520 and left 
the name St. Helena, now given to the largest island. In 1562 the 
French explorer Ribault, coming north from Florida with a party of 
Huguenots, entered the sound, which they named Port Royal, where 
they built a fort called Charlesfort, about six miles away from what is 
now Beaufort, After many troubles, however, the colonists deserted 
the place and returned to France. Another colony (English), led by 
Colonel Sayles (1670), was started on Beaufort Island in Port Royal 
Sound, but they, too, left it and founded Charleston (p. 10). Still 
another British attempt was made in 1682, but the Spaniards accused 
the settlers of urging the Indians to war against them and caused the 
colony's removal. That the islands were eventually settled, however, 
appears from the fact that Major Gardiner, in 1779, tried to capture 
Port Royal Island for the British, but was repulsed by volunteers 
headed by General Moultrie. 

In 1 861 a fleet of fifty Federal vessels, commanded by DuPont, 
was sent to subdue Port Royal, which had been fortified by the Con- 
federates. A frightful storm scattered the fleet, but it was reunited 
at the bar ten miles out from the entrance to Port Royal Sound. Two 
earthworks protected this entrance, Fort Walker on Hilton Head, 
south, and Fort Beauregard on St. Helena's Island, on the north, 
each garrisoned by South Carolina troops. A column of ten vessels 
revolved in a long ellipse past Hilton Head, delivering broadsides at 
Fort Walker, which answered bravely. Several gunboats and two 
frigates then went in closer and shelled the fort until the garrison 
fled across Hilton Head. Meanwhile Fort Beauregard had been 
evacuated by its garrison, and the four vessels, which had been 
attacking it, drove the slight Confederate flotilla, Tatnall's " mosquito 
fleet," into shallow water. The Federal troops took possession of 
and repaired the two forts, and formed a stronghold in South Carolina, 
from which they were not afterward ejected, forming an important 
naval base and point for frequent expeditions. 

For Savannah, Ga., see p. 18. 

From Savannah to Waycross the Coast Line Route (here a 
part of the Plant System) follows a route through sandy pine woods. 



ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTALNS. 5l 

where the soil is poor and cultivation scanty, crossing, at Jessiip, 
the line to Brunswick. 

Way cross (pop., 5,500; Phoenix, $2) is a mere railway town, 
whence lines lead eastward to Brunswick, southward into Florida, 
and westward into Alabama. 

Route 13d. — Waycross to Jacksonville. 

The railroad strikes due south, through level pine woods, and 
reaches Jacksonville (p. 133), 172 miles from Savannah and 1,014 
miles from New York. For continuations in Florida see p. 139 et seq. 

Route 13c.— Waycross to Montgomery, etc. 

This is the line of the B. & W. Rd. proceeding due west across the 
pine region, devoted principally to lumbering industries, 112 miles 
to Albany, intersecting at Tifton (Route 23). Albany (pop.. 6,500; 
Albany Inn, $2.50; Mayo, $2) is a flourishing market town, in the midst 
of cottonfields and peach orchards in the valley of Flint River, whence 
lines diverge westward and northward, via Americus and Columbus, 
and southward to Thomasville and Western Florida. Continuing 
westward, the route crosses the Chattahoochee River into Alabama 
at Eufaula, and proceeds directly to Montgomery, distant 315 miles 
from Waycross and 1,253 miles from New York. Thence connections 
are made for New Orleans, Jackson, and Vicksburg, Miss. 

Waycross to New Orleans.— Resuming the course of the Coast 
Line (Plant System) route, the country west of Waycross is low, flat, 
covered with pines, Spanish bayonet (yucca), and palmetto scrub, 
and sparsely inhabited. At Dupont the lines of the Plant System 
diverge southward into Western Florida and to Palatka, and atVal- 
dosta the Georgia Southern Rd. is crossed. The first important sta- 
tion is Thomasville (104 m.; pop., 6,000). This is one of the most 
celebrated and successful of the pine-woods winter resorts, situated 
on a dry, sandy ridge among the evergreen trees, and having a 
genial climate, especially beneficial to persons of weak lungs or throat, 
together with social privileges and opportunities for out-door sport, 
especially fox-hunting and shooting to an unusual degree. There- 
fore, in addition to the annual influx of winter guests, many families 
of wealth from distant parts of the country are making a permanent 
residence there. The altitude is 248 feet. 

The two leading hotels are the Piney Woods and the Mitchell 
House. Each has rooms for 300 or more guests ($4) and all the ap- 



52 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

pointments and service of first-class hotels, including spacious "sun 
parlors." Smaller hotels and boarding-houses are numerous. The 
shooting is good in the neighborhood. Thomasville is also reached 
from the north by the Louisville & Nashville system, via Montgom- 
ery, and by the various lines concentrating at Macon (p. 122), and 
thence southward via Albany. The Plant System of railways con- 
nects it directly with Florida by way of Tifton, and the Alabama 
Midland Ry. forms a short line to Montgomery and a direct con- 
nection with the L. & N. system of railways to the northwest. 

Continuing, the Coast Line passes Bainbridge Jc. (L. & N. Rd.), 
follows Flint River into Florida, crosses the Appalachicola River 
at Chattahoochee (where east-bound passengers change for Talla- 
hassee and all parts of Florida), and follows the line of the Louisville 
& Nashville Rd. (Route 28) past De Fumak Springs to Pensacola. 
on the western side of Escambia Bay. 

Pensacola (pop. , 16,000; Hotel Escambia, $3.50; Merchant's, $2.50) 
is a remarkable seaport, with a remarkable history. It is the best 
harbor on the Gulf Coast, and has been fought over by four or five 
governments. The city itself has little to interest the traveler, but 
there is much in the bay and its neighborhood. It is as a seaport 
and coast-defense station that the town has grown and continues to 
grow, in spite of the unhealthiness of its situation and exposure, in 
particular, to yellow fever. Several navigable rivers enter here or 
near here, down which are floated rafts and barges of lumber, prin- 
cipally pitch pine of the very best quality, and ships come for it from 
all parts of the world, the exports amounting to 150,000,000 feet a 
year. Railroads bring coal from the mines in Northern Alabama, the 
shipments of which are now large and steadily increasing. Fish, 
fruit, cotton, and early vegetables also form important elements in 
the commerce of the port. 

Pensacola Bay, its history, ajtd sights are of great interest. 
Discovered by the Spaniards in 15 16, visited by De Soto about 
1536, and occupied by them in 1696, it became an object of attack 
by the French, who captured its fort (San Carlos) in 1719 and 
held it until 1722. The town was then built at the southern 
extremity of Santa Rosa Island, the long strip of sand beach which 
separates the three-pronged bay from the ocean. It came into 
Spanish hands again, but was abandoned in 1754. When the 
English took possession of Florida (by treaty) in 1763, they built 
a fort and stationed a garrison on the present site of the town, 
and held it until the country was returned to Spain (1781). In 1814 
the United States and Britain were again at war, and Andrew 
Jackson was in command in the South. The Spanish allowed the 



kOUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. 5S 

English to land in the town and garrison the forts at the entrance 
to the harbor. Jackson gathered an army as soon as he could, 
and by a brisk movement and sharp fight drove the English away 
and punished the Spaniards. Three years later Pensacola became 
a part of the United States, which immediately established a 
navy yard on the western shore, near the mouth of the bay, and 
rebuilt the old fortifications — Fort Pickens on the southern 
extremity of the Santa Rosa Island, Fort McRae on the opposite 
side of the inlet, and Battery Barancas, facing the entrance chan- 
nel and protecting the navy yard. There were very few men in 
these forts when Florida seceded in 1861, and the navy yard was 
unprotected; but the same tactics were practiced as with Fort 
Sumter, and reinforcements held back until it was too late to save 
the navy yard from the local Confederates, or any forts, except 
Pickens, into which the Federal commander, Lieut. A. J. Slemner, 
had retired with his small force, obstinately refusing all overtures 
toward its surrender. He held it until April 12th, when reinforce- 
ments were received. Meanwhile the Confederates had fortified 
the western shore, where Braxton Bragg (afterward prominent at 
Chattanooga) commanded 8,000 troops. Occasional bombardments 
followed, and on May 8, 1862, the Confederates abandoned their 
works and went to Mobile, doing their best to destroy the navy 
yard and other public works, but only partly succeeding. The 
fort remained in the hands of the Government, but the navy yard 
was not rebuilt, and probably will not be. It is tenanted by only 
a small number of officers and workmen, and only small garri- 
sons are maintained at Forts Barancas and Pickens. The tour of 
this harbor, and a visit to these old forts, the navy yard, and the 
picturesque sea-shore villages and fishing places, is one of the 
pleasantest experiences of Southern travel, and may be made by 
steamboats daily. 

From Pensacola to New Orleans the road makes its way north 
to Flomaton, and thence (L. & N. Rd., Route 28) to Mobile and 
along the Gulf Coast to the "Crescent City" — 1,505 miles from 
New York by this route. 

Route 14.— New Florida Short Line. 

This is the route of the Southern Ry. and Fla. Cen. & Pen. Rd., 
via Everett. It has through sleeping-cars between New York 
and Tampa, Fla., via Jacksonville and St. Augustine, and a through 
coach between Washington and Jacksonville. Through tickets 
between Northeastern cities and all points in Florida. Distance, 
Washington to Jacksonville, 771 miles. ^ 

This route is from New York to WasJmigton, via Pennsylvania 
Railroad. Leaving Washington (same station), the Southern Railway 



54 GUIDE to SOUttiEA^TkkN. STATES. 

(Route 15) is followed to Charlotte, S. C, and thence to Columbia, 
via Chester. 

Columbia (pop., 15,000; Grand Central, $2.50; Jerome, $2.50; 
Wright's, $2.50; Nelson's, $2) is the capital of South Carolina and 
pleasantly situated upon a hilltop. It was laid out, over one hundred 
years ago, in a quadrangle of streets of great breadth, finely shaded, 
many having an avenue of trees down the center. It has a healthful, 
agreeable climate, good water, adequate drainage, electric lights, 
and street cars, and is flourishing as a cotton market, trading center, 
and manufacturing town. The recent completion of a large water- 
power canal has given a great impetus to the manufacturing of 
cotton, which will be largely increased in the near future. There 
are also several railway and other machine shops of growing 
importance. Railroads lead east, via Florence; north to Greensboro 
and Spartanburg (Southern Ry.); northwest to Greenville and the 
mountains; west to Atlanta, via Athens; southwest to Augusta (South- 
ern Ry.); south to Savannah and Beaufort (Florida Short Line), and 
southeast to Orangeburg and Charleston. 

Columbia, as the capital (since 1796), and a healthful, prosperous 
place, early attracted men of wealth, and many old families remain, 
occupying beautiful ancestral homes which escaped the conflagration 
of 1865. The State House is a marble renaissance building, founded 
in 1849, which thus far has cost $4,000,000, but will not be finished or 
satisfactory, architecturally, until its present, low and plain roof is 
replaced by a dome or some sort of superstructure. The surrounding 
grounds are beautifully ornamented. At the . right of the main 
entrance stands the unique Palmetto Momiment — a bronze pal- 
metto tree, erected in memory of the men of the local Palmetto Regi- 
ment, who fell in the Mexican War (1846); at the left, a monument to 
Washington; and in front, the tall shaft of the Confederate Soldiers' 
Monument. The State Insane Asylum and the Penitentiary are here; 
and among educational institutions are the South Carolina College, 
Presbyterian College and Theological School, two seminaries for 
women, and two for colored students. Arsenal Hill (alt., about 350 
ft.) gives the best view. 

Columbia has had a large share in the political history of the 
United States. Here, in 1832 , the Nullification Ordinance was passed, 
and its logical successor, the Secession Ordinance (December 20, 
i860), which began the overt movement toward disunion and precip- 
itated the Civil War. The city was not seriously threatened in that 
war until after the fall of Savannah, when, in February, 1865, Sher- 
man led the Federal army through the Carolinas to join Grant in 
Virginia. The Confederates, imagining that Augusta and Charleston 
would be attacked, withdrew their support to those cities, leaving but 
a slight garrison, under Wade Hampton, in Columbia, which was 



ROUTES EA ST OF ALLEGHAN V A/0 UN TAINS. 55 

surprised when Sherman suddenly appeared at its gates. This force 
fled at once (February 9th), the Nationals having successfully crossed 
Congaree and Saluda rivers, in spite of burned bridges. Hampton, 
before leaving Columbia, set fire to the cotton in the city, and the fire 
spread until, despite the efforts of the conquering army, the greater 
part of the city was burned to the ground. All the railroads near 
Charleston, several great foundries, an arsenal, and the place where 
Confederate paper money was made, were wholly destroyed. 

South from Columbia the line proceeds through Denmark (p. 46) 
and Fairfax (P., R. & A. Rd.), crossing Savannah River at Garnett, to 
Savannah (p. 19). Southward from Savannah the train follows the 
"short line" (33 m.), via Everett, as close to the coast as is prac- 
ticable, through a wooded region. At Burroughs, the Sav. & Fla. 
W. Rd. and the Ogeechee River are crossed. Darien Junction is the 
point of change for Sapelo Sound, Inverness Island, and Darien 
(p. 24). At Barrington the Altamaha River is crossed, and, just 
beyond, at Everett, the S. Ry. to Brunswick (20 m., p. 23). A little 
farther, the Bruns. & West. Rd. and Little Saltilla River are crossed; 
at Woodbine, the Saltilla River; and, soon after, Florida is entered by 
crossing the St. Mary's River, a short distance beyond which is Yulee, 
the junction with the railroad from Fernandina to Cedar Keys, 
sixteen miles south of which the train enters the Union Station in 
Jacksonville. 

Route 15.— Piedmont Air L*ine (Southern Ry.)« 

This route is the direct line along the eastern (or southern) base of 
the Appalachian Mountains, and is a very interesting one. The scen- 
ery and quaint appearance of Southern rural life increases as the 
journey advances, so that the traveler will do well to leave Washing- 
ton at night, so as to have the last half of the journey by daylight. 

The train first crosses the Long Bridge to Alexandria, and thence 
to Manassas, the scene of the first great conflict of the Civil War, 
known in the North as the battle of Bull Run (July 21, 1861). 

The Confederate army under Beauregard, having about 30,000 men, 
met the Federal forces, commanded by McDowell, of nearly equal 
strength, and disastrously defeated them, a large part of the Union 
army fleeing back to Washington in a disorganized rout. The Con- 
federates did not pursue, however. On August 29th and 30th of the 
next year the armies of Lee (Conf.) and Pope (Union) fought a second 
battle, upon nearly the same ground, though each occupied the posi- 
tion of the other in the first fight. This second battle of Manassas 
was again a victory for the Confederate forces, but one by which they 
profited very little. The battlefield is some distance from the station, 



56 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

and the vicinity of the station, which was almost constantly the 
scene of army operations from 1861 to '64, exhibits little to remind 
passengers of those times. The same is true of the immediate vicin- 
ity of Culpeper Court House (69 m.), although the neighborhood 
of that strategic point became famous in the War of the Revolution 
and was the locality of almost incessant fighting and maneuvering 
during the Civil War. It was especially prominent during the cam- 
paign of Meade against Lee in 1863, after the repulse of the Confed- 
erates at Gettysburg and their retreat into Virginia. The Rappa- 
hannock River is crossed some miles before reaching Culpeper, and 
twelve miles beyond that station the train crosses the Rapidan, or 
Rapid Ann, as it was originally and properly spelled. This is a deep, 
swift stream, running between hilly wooded banks; and it became, in 
a general way, a strong line of defense against the Northern army 
and remained so until the spring of 1864, when Grant took command 
of the Army of the Potomac and prepared to attack Lee's defenses. 
It was only a few miles below here that he crossed the river, early in 
May, and began that seven days of frightful Battles of the Wilder- 
ness which terminated with the bloody victory of Spottsylvania. 

The next point of importance is Charlottesville (pop., 6,000; Albe- 
marle, $2.50; Parrot's, $2.50), a flourishing agricultural town and 
junction with the C. & O. Ry. (p. 74), by which the Natural Bridge 
and The Grottoes (p. 73) may be reached within an hour or two. 
The surrounding country is highly productive and especially noted 
for fruit. The finest apples (Albemarle pippins) for the export trade 
are raised here, and great quantities of grapes, most of which are 
made into red wines of various grades. A new hotel, the Jefferson 
Park ($2.50), has just been opened as a summer resort, a mile from 
town, with which it is connected by electric cars. 

Albemarle County has played an important part in Virginia's his- 
tory, and has been the home of many influential families, of which 
the most famous was that of Thomas Jefferson, whose estate, Monti- 
cello, is four miles west of the city. The farm is no longer in posses- 
sion of the descendants of the family, but the stately mansion and 
many relics of Jefferson's time survive. The writer of the Declara- 
tion of Independence, and ex-President of the United States, is buried 
near his former home, in a small private cemetery, where his grave 
is marked by a granite obelisk, nearly ruined by eager relic-hunters. 
Monticello is visible from a long distance, and itself commands a 
remarkably beautiful and extensive landscape. 

The University of Virginia is another object of great and univer- 
sal interest at Charlottesville. It occupies varied and beautiful 
grounds at the edge of the village, and consists of an assemblage of 
buildings which for quaintness of architectural design are unequaled 
in this country, resembling more our idea of what might have been 
a Greek school than an American one. The stately dome-crowned 



ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. 57 

central building was designed by Jefferson to be an exact copy of the 
Athenian Parthenon. This institution was one of the principal uni- 
versities of the land before the war, and since then has maintained 
its place as the leading educational institution of the South. It has 
graduated many distinguished men, and has upon its corps of pro- 
fessors the narnes of several of world-wide reputation in their spe- 
cialties of learning. It is no more than a comfortable walk to the 
University from the railway station ; and a stroll about the grounds, 
on shaded paths, between winding walls and hedges, and the magnifi- 
cent views across the hills to be gained from them, wall well repay 
the exertion. 

Continuing the journey from Charlottesville, the passenger is 
carried through a hilly, agricultural region, affording interesting 
views from the car windows, and with a constantly increasing 
approach to the mountains, until he arrives at the valley of James 
River and enters its principal town. 

Lynchburg (pop., 20,000; Hotel Carroll, $3) is a city a century 
old, on the southern bank of the James at the point where it breaks 
through the Blue Ridge. The passage of the river is between abrupt, 
steeply sloping cliffs, and the gorge furnishes a great amount of water- 
power. It is in consequence of this, chiefly, that a town has grown 
here which has now become a manufacturing point and railway 
center of importance. 

Lynchburg was settled more than a century ago by Irish and 
Scotch people — among others by a Quaker family named Lynch. 
One of the sons set up a ferry, which by and by attracted so many 
people that, in 1786, a town was established, and the name changed 
from Lynch's Ferry to Lynchburg; it was Col. Charles Lynch, a 
brother of the founder, and an officer in the Continental army, who, 
by his summary punishment of marauders , gave us the term ' ' Lynch 
law." In Revolutionary times, this old county (Campbell) was 
among the most important centers of civilization in Virginia, and an 
object of especial attack by Tarleton and other British captains. 
Beginning as a marketing and milling center, Lynchburg was 
soon connected with prominent points in all directions, and has been 
from an early day a wholesale supplying point for an exceedingly 
wide range of the mountain country. Its population is largely employed 
in the iron furnaces, foundries, machine shops, and nail mills, or in the 
many great tobacco factories and warehouses. In addition to these, 
however, factories exist for making woolen cloth, grinding sumac, 
shaping wood-work, and for many other purposes. 

The power for these factories is largely obtained from a great 
dam controlling the river-water just above the city, which cost $120,- 
000, and feeds a great canal. The Judith dam, three miles higher, 
cost $80,000, and there are manv others of the most substantial 
character along this upper part of the James and its tributaries. 



58 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

Lynchburg has long been the home of many families possessed 
of unusual wealth, and her residence streets, rising in terraces on 
the hillside, show an extraordinary number of fine houses. Many 
are in the most modern style, yet now and then one meets with a 
charming old-time mansion. From high points splendid pictures are 
visible. Go to the top of the hill on Madison Street, and look south- 
westward at the ever magnificent Peaks of Otter. Few scenes in 
America equal that ! 

Lynchburg is the center of many railways elsewhere described, 
(i) Norfolk & Western east to Norfolk (p. 33) and west to 
Roanoke (p. 78), where it connects with Route 16. 

(2) Chesapeake & Ohio, via the old R. & A. Rd. (p. 74), east to 
Richmond, along the James River, and west to Natural Bridge, 
Lexingtojt, and the mountain resorts of West Virginia. 

(3) Norfolk & Western, south to Durham and Raleigh, N. C. 
Lynchburg to Danville (66 m.) forms the next stage of the 

Piedmont Air Line, across a sparsely populated region, with numer- 
ous streams coming down to the James from the hills. Danville 
(pop., 12,000 ; Burton, $3) is devoted chiefly to the sale and manu- 
facture of tobacco, to which the neighboring country is chiefly 
devoted. The river crossed here is the Dan, and this point is the 
head of its navigable part, to which fact the town owes its growth 
at this point. Danville has a delightful summer climate, and 
receives many visitors at that season. The Buffalo Lithia Sprvtgs 
are a short distance east ; a railway near to the foot of the mountains 
opens a pleasant summer region. 

A direct route from Baltimore to Danville should be mentioned 
here. Steamers of the York River Line (Baltimore, Chesapeake & 
Richmond Steamboat Co.) leave Baltimore (Pier 19, Light Street) 
daily, except Sunday, at 5.00 p. m. (calling on alternate days at York- 
town and Gloucester Point), and arrive at West Point, Va. (p. 35), 
next morning. Thence passengers proceed to Richmond, and over 
the old R. & D. Rd. (now Southern Ry.) to Danville, passing Amelia 
Court House, Burkeville, Keysville, etc., a level, wooded region 
identified with the closing scenes of the Civil War; Jefferson Davis' 
last attempt at a " government " was at Danville (March, 1865). 

At Danville the Piedmont Air Line leaves Virginia and proceeds 
southwest through North Carolina. The first large station is 

Greensboro (pop., 3,500; Benbow, $2.50; McAdoo, $2.50); it is a 
lively market town, and is growing into a favorite summer residence 
for families from the seacoast. Several railways diverge here. 

(i) To Raleigh, Goldsboro, and New Berne (Routes 11, 12). 



ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. 59 

(2) To Sandford, Fayetteville, and Wilmington (Routes 12, 13). 

(3) To Winston-Salem and Roanoke (Route 16). 

(4) To Mt. Airy, a mining village at the foot of the Blue Ridge, 
about to be connected by a short railway with the Cripple Creek 
mining region (p. 6g), 

(5) To Wilkesboro. This branch follows up the Yadkin River 
nearly to its source in the Blue Ridge, and forms an approach to the 
Roan Mountain, Blowing Rock, and Roaring Gap districts, reached 
by stages from Wilkesboro. At Winston-Salem (Phenix, $2) a road 
diverges (27 m.) to Mocksville, a local summer resort; and another 
continues northward to Roanoke. This is the region where the dark 
chewing-tobacco is grown. The center of the industry is at Winston, 
where there are forty factories of plug. 

Salisbury (pop., 5,000; Mt. Vernon, $2; St. James, $2) is the 
next notable point beyond Greensboro. It was the scene of some 
severe encounters with Tarleton's raiders in 1780, but obtained its 
principal notoriety as the site, during the Civil War, of one of the 
most dreadful of the prison-pens in which Federal soldiers were con- 
fined; this prison was wholly swept away by Stoneman's cavalry, in 
April, 1865. Salisbury is the point of departure for the pleasure 
resorts of the mountains in Western North Carolina and Eastern 
Tennessee, forming 

Route 15a.— Salisbury to Asheville and Morristowno 

Western North Carolina is a region of the highest mountains 
east of the Rockies. Forty-three summits there exceed 6,000 feet in 
altitude, the highest, Mt. Mitchell, reaching 6,688 feet; nearly a 
hundred others approach or exceed 5 ,000 feet. All are wooded to, and 
over, their very crests, and in general they present rounded outlines, 
and offer no great difficulty of ascent beyond the thickness of the 
forests; but in some places the ledges descend in gigantic steps or 
break away into vertical precipices hundreds of feet high. It has 
long been called "the land of the sky." The geographical situation, 
altitude, coniferous balsamic forests, and rapid drainage, unite to 
make the region not only exceedingly healthful, but extraordinarily 
pleasant as a place of residence. Its altitude renders it comparatively 
cool in summer and attracts the people of the coasts and lowlands of 
the Southern States, who flock thither in summer, and have built up 
several flourishing communities; while the southerly situation, tem- 

6 



60 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TE S. 

pering the cold, and the altitude and prevailing westerly winds, form 
conditions very grateful to Northerners seeking a milder climate in 
winter. Western North Carolina, favored all the year round, has 
therefore grown into great prosperity, especially in the valleys of the 
Swannanoa and French Broad rivers, which open a pathwa}^ for 
travel across the ranges and make Asheville and the most populous 
resorts easily accessible from both east and west. The principal 
approach to Asheville from the east is (i) by the Western North 
Carolina division of the Southern Railway from Salisbury, which 
passes on down the French Broad to Morristown, Tenn. (p. 82), 
making (2) the approach from the west. Another approach (3) is by 
the branch^of the Southern Railw^ay from Spartanburg, and_^a fourth 
is from the South by the way of Murphy. 

(i) Salisbury to Asheville. — The first hour's ride from Salisbury 
west is through a rolling, farming country. The first station of note 
is Statesville, county seat of Iredell and intersection of a branch 
which runs straight south to Charlotte (p. 66) and north to Taylors- 
ville. The Strohecker Barium Springs are five miles distant. A 
few miles beyond Statesville the train crosses the beautiful Catawba 
River, which sweeps placidly between high and wooded banks. 
This river, named after the Indian tribe that lived in its upper valley, 
and which, in turn, gives its name to a native grape, rises in the Blue 
Ridge and flows nearly 300 miles southeasterly into South Carolina, 
where it changes its name to the Wateree and joins with the Con- 
garee to form the Santee. The next station of account is Hickory, 
at the intersection of the Chester & Lenoir Railroad. It is an old-time 
village (pop., 3,000) among the first foothills of the Blue Ridge, which 
here begin to grow plainly into view ahead. Near the station 
stands the new Hickory I?in{%2.so), a modern brick building, lighted 
by gas and electricity, and well furnished for 150 guests. The 
Catawba Springs Hotel ($2), six miles distant, can accommodate 
400 guests; several good boarding-houses can be found in or near 
Hickory, where the railway station is 1,175 f&et above the sea. 

In past days, when travel was by stages, the old Hickory Tavern 
was one of the landmarks of Western North Carolina, since it was a 
relay station at the forking of mountain roads. The new hotels are 
not only the center of a region which is very charming for summer 
rambling, but in the autumn are a favorite resort of sportsmen, since 
the shooting there, especially for quails, is excellent. Gold is washed 
from the bars all along this part of the Catawba Valley. 



ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. 61 

Lenoir is a small county town fifteen miles north of Hickory, at the 
terminus of the C. & L. Rd., and the point of departure by hack 
(22 m.) up the Yadkin Valley to Blowitig Rock Springs, a popular 
mountain resort on the northern slope of Grandfather Mountain, 
taking its name from a precipice giving a superb view. Here are 
several rural hotels, of which the largest are the Skyland, Wautauga, 
Blowing Rock, Fairview, and Green Park, each $1.50 to $2 a day. 
The surroundings are characteristic of the lofty and primitive moun- 
tain country, and the fishing is excellent. Within a few miles are 
Roan Mountain (p. 80), Cranberry, Linville (Esceola Inn, $2.50), 
Piedmont Springs, Elkville, and the summering places reached from 
Wilkesboro. 

The first station west of Hickory is Connelly Springs ($2); and 
then comes Morgantoti, the county seat of Burke, containing the 
State Hospital for the Insane and Wilberforce College (Episcopal). 
All of these larger towns are prosperous country markets, especially 
for orchard-fruits and leaf-tobacco. 

Glen Alpine Springs, fifteen miles southward by hack, is a hotel 
(150 guests, $2) on South Mountain, beside springs of saline chalybe- 
ate water. Piedmont Springs is twenty miles northward, and various 
summer boarding-houses exist in the neighborhood. 

The road now begins to ascend the mountains and becomes steep 
and circuitous, seeking a practicable grade up the valley of the 
Swannanoa, one of the sources of the Catawba. Marion and Old Fort 
have small summer hotels. At the latter, w^here Mount Mitchell is 
grandly in view northward, among a host of brother summits of 
the Blue Ridge, the road begins to slant steeply up the sides of the 
hills, first on one side and then on the other of the Swannanoa, 
curving its way around the heads of the side-ravines, and once or 
twice turning backward in great loops. 

This is one of the most interesting pieces of railway engineering 
and one of the v/ildest and most attractive bits of mountain scenery 
m the United States. The builders were Northern engineers, who 
qualified themselves, by this experience, for some very serious railway 
mountaineering, a few years later, in the Far West; the labor they 
employed was almost entirely convict, whose prison-pens were at 
the head of one of the valleys, where the remains of them are still 
visible. It was hard work and hard fare, but it seemed to the pres- 
ent writer, who witnessed the construction he is now describing, a 
far happier condition than to be shut in between stone walls and to 
labor daily in crowded rooms, or, worse yet, to idle in a loathsome 
cell. The evils of the system of farming out convict-labor are not 
felt by the individual felon so much as by society in general. A 
tunnel, 1,800 feet long, carries the train through the summit ridge of 
Swannanoa Gap (alt., 2,500 ft.), whence the rivulets flow westward 



62 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

into the French Broad. Every station here has a small or large 
summer hotel. A few moments later the train reaches the populous 
center of the mountain region at Asheville. 

Asheville (pop., 13,000). Hotels: Battery Pa7'k,%\\ Kenilworth 
Inn (Biltmore), $5 ; Oakland Heights, $4 ; Swanna7toa, $2.50 to $3 ; 
Oaks, Glen Rock, and others, %2 ; also many boarding-houses, %b to 
$10 per week. 

Asheville is a town of long standing, and the capital of that 
Buncombe County to which the representative made a famous 
speech from the floor of Congress, the irrelevancy of which he 
excused by the plea that he was "talking to Buncombe." It has 
been a summer resort for Southern people for half a century, but 
was never heard of, beyond a few coast families, until " Christian 
Reid " of Salisbury wrote her novel, " The Land of the Sky," which 
dealt with the experiences of a summer party here. After the Civil 
War Northern people began to learn of its value as a winter residence 
for persons with weak lungs, and its fame increased when the Western 
North Carolina Railroad rendered the place easily accessible ; but 
in 1880 its population was only 2,000, and there were none but 
small local hotels. The city occupies a hilly site, having a general 
elevation of about 2,600 feet and affording wide and beautiful out- 
looks in all directions, but especially toward the south and west, 
where the Blue Ridge and the Smoky mountains form parallel 
ranges of shapely turquoise-colored peaks. The central part of the 
city is one and one-half miles from the railway station, but hacks (25 
cents) and electric street-cars (5 cents) connect them , and the latter reach 
all the hotels. Lines of electric cars run from Court House Square 
to all parts of the city, and far among the surrounding hills. The 
Doubleday, Camp Patton, and Mountford Avenue lines are particu- 
larly recommended to casual visitors, as giving not only an excellent 
idea of this pretty mountain city, but disclosing the wonderful beauty 
of the surrounding scenery. Many very interesting places are within 
walking distance, and roads or paths ascend all of the peaks in the 
region, including Mitchell, Pisgah, Craggy, Caesar's Head, etc. 
Gouche's Peak (3 m.) and Elk Mountain (5 m.) are among the nearest. 
Good roads for driving lead to and through " Biltmore " (p. 63), down 
the Swannanoa and to Hickory Nut Gap (11 m. southeast), where the 
falls and Chinmey Rock are among the special features of the pictur- 
esque gorge by which the French Broad cuts through the Blue Ridge. 

The highest point in town is an elevation called Battery Porter, 
where earthworks were built and guns planted during the Civil War; 



ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTALNS. 63 

when desultory warfare was constantly in progress among these moun- 
tains, where the North had nearly as man}^ sympathizers as the 
South, and guerrilla raids were common. This is the site of the 
Battery Park Hotel, a Queen Anne edifice having a frontage of 
300 feet and a depth of 175 feet, and surrounded by a cultivated 
park. " The main hall, fitted up in hardwood, its old, high-recessed 
lire-place, with quaint brass andirons, and spruce logs ablaze with 
cheerful flame, announces at once a homelike and cordial house in 
which a summer can be most delightfully spent. Elevator and grand 
staircase carry the guests to the many elegant suites and apartments, 
where private bath rooms, electric lights, etc., give the house more 
than usual recommendations." 

Another very fine hotel is Keiiilworth Imi, at Biltmore Station, 
between Asheville and " Biltmore," the princely property of George 
Vanderbilt. Its architecture is highly picturesque, and its appomt- 
ments are of the most modern character, the windows overlooking 
the French Broad Valley in one direction and that of the young 
Swannanoa in the other. Its site is the center of a large park on the 
southern slope of Beaumont Mountain, and pure w^ater is furnished 
from wells bored deep into the rock. The Winyah Sanitarium, Oaks, 
and Oakland Heights are good hotels in the city; the Swaimaiioa 
the business man's stopping-place, is the oldest hotel in town, is near 
the public square, and is the only one that has no bar. The Glen 
Rock is at the railway station. Many boarding-houses exist at 
cheaper rates than the hotels. The city is well supplied wnth stores; 
the markets are varied and good; police, fire, water, and telephone 
service are well maintained; educational facilities are extensive; 
ministers of the gospel and physicians are numerous, and there is 
every provision for making the residence of a tourist or invalid 
pleasant and profitable at any season of the year. 

Biltmore is the name chosen by George W. Vanderbilt, the 
youngest son of the late Wm. H. Vanderbilt of New York, for the 
magnificent property which he has acquired just southeast of Ashe- 
ville, upon an eminence overlooking the valley of the French Broad. 
This estate embraces 180 square miles, and includes some thirty-five 
miles of scientifically -made roads. A recent description says: 

"He may hunt in his game preserve of 20,000 acres, through 
which hundreds of deer will roam, or may fish in well-stocked streams, 
which are his, from the tiny spring on the mountain-top until they 
merge into the French Broad. His private nurseries, from which 
several million choice trees, plants, and shrubs are transplanted each 
year, are the largest in the world, and a railroad has been built from 
Asheville to his chateau (3 m.).. . . It is estimated that it will cost 
about $6,000,000 to develop fully his plans. The residence is 300 by 
192 feet, with long-walled courts and stables in addition, yet a part of 
the general structure. It is built of stone. . . . Sunken gardens 
and greenhouses, on which fortunes have been spent; a tennis-court. 



64 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

whose huge retaining-wall, i6 feet thick and 40 feet high, is one of 
the finest pieces of masonry in this country; a bowling-green, 200 feet 
wide and 700 feet long, entirely surrounded by a hand-carved granite 
balustrade, and innumerable other features, form a tout ensemble 
which surpasses anything ever dreamed of heretofore in America. 
. . . The young millionaire is not at all exclusive or selfish with his 
belongings, but permits visitors to drive through his grounds and 
inspect his residence, under reasonable conditions." 

(2) From the South to Asheville, via Spartanburg. — Travel to 
Western North Carolina, from the Southern coast, Charleston, 
Savannah, and Florida, finds its direct course through Augusta, 
Ga. , or Columbia, S. C. , to Spartanburg (p. 69), whence a railroad 
runs directly north to Asheville. 

Tryoji, N. C, is the first station north of Spartanburg of interest 
to tourists. Here, at the foot of South Mountain, is Oak Hall Hotel 
(75 guests, $2); and this is the station for Hotel Lynn (80 guests, $2), 
two miles distant; the Chevalier House, in Columbus, five miles 
distant, and Skyuka Inn ($3), which stands out prominently, on an 
elevation 3,000 feet above the sea level, overlooking Pacolet Valley 
on the south and Green River Valley to the north. The house is a 
new one, equipped with all modern conveniences. 

Tryon stands in the midst of notable scenery and is inhabited 
principally by health-seekers from every part of the Union. Abrupt 
mountains curve about it to the north, while the landscape southward 
lies open to the sun and warm winds. Snow is rare, although the 
altitude is 1,500 feet; frosts are of short continuance. Quail-shooting 
and trout-fishing attract the sportsman, and horseback-riding is 
enjoyed by everybody. Saluda and Flat Rock (Flat Rock Inn, $2), 
a few miles beyond Tryon, are similar resorts, each having many 
hotels and boarding-houses; and then comes Hendersonville (pop., 
1,200), in the midst of the Blue Ridge (alt., 2,600 feet), long noted 
as an agreeable residence either in winter or in summer. The 
village is the capital of Henderson County, has a complete sewer- 
age and public-water system, street railw^ays, an academy, bank, 
newspaper, and opera house, and a large number of comfortable 
hotels and boarding-houses. The principal hotel is Dun Crag- 
gan Inn, a large modern structure with every comfort. A long 
drive will carry one to The Pinnacle, a summit (alt., 3,832 ft.) com- 
manding a remarkably extensive view; or to Csesar's Head (26 m. ; 
alt. of hotel at the summit, 3,118 ft.). Nearer are Hickory Nut 
Gap, Chimney Rock, Bald Knob (the scene of Mrs. Burnett's 
"Esmeralda;" alt., 3,863 ft.), and other interesting places. These 
are also reached by the Seaboard Air Line from Rutherfordton. 

(3) From the West to Asheville (via Morristown, p. 65). 

(4) From Atlanta to Asheville, via Murphy.— This is a route 
without through cars or close connections, but passing through the 



ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. 65 

exceedingly picturesque valley between the Blue Ridge and Great 
Smoky mountains. The M. & N. Ga. Rd. (p. 84) is followed from 
Atlanta as far as Blue Ridge Junction, where a branch is taken 
(26 m.) to Murphy, N. C. (Drummer's House, $2), a rural village 
where the passenger changes to a train of the S. Ry. 

This branch line, 120 miles long, between Murphy and Asheville, 
is a daring piece of railway engineering, making its way up the wild 
gorges of the Nantahala and other headwaters of the Little Ten- 
nessee, over the highest railway divide east of the Rockies, 2,645 fee-:, 
and down through a maze of ravines to the level of the FrenCi.i 
Broad, The scenery is romantically wild, and the mountains and 
streams form an almost uninjured field for the hunter and angler. 
Bears, deer, and wild turkeys remain numerous in the forests, and 
trout in the streams, whose sands also yield gold and gems, which , how- 
ever, are perhaps the least valuable of the mineral resources of the 
district. Every hamlet opens boarding-houses during the summer, 
and at several places large hotels are sustained, as at Andrews, 
Bryson City, Dillsboro (Springs Hotel), and Waynesville. IVay^ies- 
vitle is on the divide, at the base of Balsam Mountain, and in a region 
of rare loveliness. It is the capital of Cherokee County, profits by a 
fine water-power (Hiawassee River), and is surrounded by tobacco 
and vegetable farms of unusual fertility. Half a mile from this 
station, and well up upon the mountain slope, are the Haywood 
White Sulphur Springs. 

Asheville to Knoxville. — The railway along the French Broad, 
connecting Asheville with the Tennessee railways at Morristown, 
was the pioneer into this region. It is only lately, however, that it 
has become an avenue of through traffic, as under present arrange- 
ments. Continuous trains now run this way between Washington 
and Chattanooga, via Salisbury, as heretofore explained, in addition 
to the local service; also through sleeping-cars from Cincinnati and 
Louisville, From the station at Asheville the train bound west 
proceeds at once to the valley of the French Broad, a wide, rapid 
stream winding between lofty banks, wooded for the most part, and 
here and there breaking into rocky bluffs, while charming views of 
the distant mountains are constantly presented. Forty miles of this 
brings the traveler to Hot Springs, just before the river-valley nar- 
rows into the gorge by which it passes through the Smoky range. 
Here is situated the immense Mountain Park Hotel (500 guests; $3 
to $5), one of the most fashionable resorts in the region; and three 
lesser hotels, Rutland Cottage, Loretta Hall, and Stone House, 
charging $2 a day. All are close by the station. 

These hot springs have been famous for a century for their efficacy 



66 G UlDE TO SO UTHEA S TERN S TA TES. 

in relieving rheumatism and gout. In the admirably-equipped bath- 
house there are sixteen separate pools, lined and floored with polished 
marble. Into each of them the pure hot water pours directly from 
the rocks beneath. Every bath has its own dressing and resting 
room. The waters possess the same qualities as the baths at Ems 
and Wiesbaden, Germany, and the Hot Springs of Arkansas. There 
are also in the hotel large marble bathing-pools and porcelain tubs, into 
which the water is pumped directly from the springs. ' ' Patients 
may be assured of as systematic and scientific treatment by the 
attendant physicians as can be had in any of the large cities, under 
whose direction the various Roman, sulphur, hot, and electric baths 
and massage are ably administered. There are dozens of beautiful 
drives to points of interest, any one of which can be made in comfor^t 
in one of the buck-boards with which the hotel livery is well supplied; 
or on horseback, if one prefers." A good local road map may be 
obtained at the hotels. 

Paint Rock, six miles beyond Hot Springs, is a hamlet adjacent 
to a bold and lofty precipice, upon which the pioneers found figures 
painted by the Indians. Beyond this point the mountains diminish, 
the river meadows grow narrower, and the current becomes quiet. A 
farming and grazing region takes the place of the rough and forested 
heights, which now present the serene beauty imparted to the moun- 
tains by distance, and the traveler perceives and enjoys that placid 
loveliness in river and landscape which has long made the valley of 
the French Broad regarded as one of the gems of American scenery. 
Near Newport the river is crossed and seen for the last time and, a 
few miles farther on, the train reaches Morristown, whence it proceeds 
to Knoxville over the Southern Railway. (See Route i6, p. 82.) 

Route 15 (resumed). — Salisbury to Atlanta. 

Resuming the Southern Railway from Salisbury, fifty miles far- 
ther, through a beautiful country, brings the traveler to Charlotte 
(pop., 19,000; Central, $2; Buford, $2), an interesting and beautiful 
town with a large trade, and extensive interests in manufactures and 
the varied mines of the neighboring mountains, where gold is 
obtained, among baser metals, in considerable quantities. The 
Government had a branch mint and coined gold money here before 
the discovery of gold in California, and it also had a large and 
valuable arsenal, which was seized by the Confederates, who formed 
Charlotte into an important depot of supplies, destroyed by Stone- 
man in 1865. Charlotte is growing rapidly and bids fair to be one of 
the leading manufacturing cities of the South. It now has, beside: 



ROUTES EAST OF A LLEGHAN V A/0 UNTAINS. 67 

several lesser works, five cotton mills with improved machinery, two 
cloth mills, oil mills, phosphate works, and a flourishing mercantile 
business. 

An early and highly creditable historical incident is the passage 
here, by alocal convention (June, 1775), of the "Mecklenburg Declara- 
tion of Independence," whereby independence from British rule 
over the North American colonies was declared, and an arrangement 
for a free local government was provided. This antedated by some 
thirteen months the general "Declaration" promulgated at Phila- 
delphia, July 4, 1776, and was the first public expression of the kind. 

Railways diverge here as follows: 

(i) North to Statesville and Western North Carolina (p. 60). 

(2) Southeast to Wilmington. (See Route 12.) 

(3) West to the foot of the Blue Ridge, reaching Lincolnton 
(Lithia Springs, $2), Shelby and Cleveland Sulphur Springs ($2), 
Rutherfordto7i (Iso-Thermal, $2), and Marion on the Western North 
Carolina Railroad. 

(4) To Columbia, S. C. (See Route 14.) 

The next stage, Charlotte to Spartanburg, S. C. (76 m.), is of the 
same interesting character, in point of scenery, as before — fertile 
valleys, clear streams, quaint farms and villages, and a nearer 
approach to the mountains. Gastonia, where the railroad from Ches- 
ter to Lenoir (p. 61) is crossed, and Blacksburg (pop., 1,500; Chero- 
kee Inn, $2. 50) on Broad River, at the State line, are summering points; 
from the latter a line goes north to Shelby and its neighboring springs. 
Two small stations near by recall brilliant exploits in Revolutionary 
history — King's Mountain (summer hotels) and Cowpens. 

Lord Cornwallis, the British commander in the South, who had 
been ravaging North Carolina, intended to march with his main 
force through Charlotte, SalislDury, and Hillsboro, and crush out 
the Whigs there, who were treating the numerous Tories with great 
severity. Tarleton was sent up the Catawba River, and Major 
Ferguson went off westward along the foot of the mountains, crossing 
the Broad River with a ruffianly command of some 1,500 men, con- 
sisting largely of Tories. Grover is the station for the battlefield of 
King's Mountain, five miles southeast of the town. Here the hastily 
collected patriot militia fell upon his encampment among the gravel 
hills, killed Ferguson, captured many prisoners and arms, and utterly 
dissipated the remainder. In 181 5 a rude headstone of dark slate 
rock was erected here, and still remains, as a monument to the 
memory of four patriots from Lincoln County, North Carolina, w^ho, 
as an inscription states, fell there on the 7th of October, 1780, 
"fighting in defense of America." Another inscription on the 
stones states that Colonel Ferguson was defeated and killed at this 
place ; but as a matter of fact, he was killed 150 yards from that 



68 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

spot and buried 300 yards north of the montiment at the 
head of a deep ravine. On the hundredth anniversary of the battle, 
a monument was placed at the other end of the battle ground, 
having a cubical base eighteen feet square, crowned by a small 
pyramid with a truncated top, two and one-half feet square. 
Several inscriptions are cut into marble slabs on the different faces 
of the monument, one stating that here the British forces, com- 
manded by Col. Patrick Ferguson, were met and totally defeated 
by the American officers and their heroic followers from Virginia, 
the Carolinas, and Tennessee. Another side gives the names of 
those who Avere killed on the ground in the defense of civil liberty, in 
the order of their rank. A third inscription declares that ' ' Here the 
tide of battle turned in favor of the American colonies." On the 
western face is inscribed, "In memory of the patriotic Americans 
who participated in the battle of King's Mountain, this monument is 
erected by their grateful descendants." Cornwallis reached Salis- 
bury, where the Whigs were hostile, but, hearing of this disaster 
to this chief supporter, turned back to South Carolina (Oct. 27, 
17S0), through a country in which patriots were continually organiz- 
ing to resist any oppression. At the King's Mountain battle, ten 
of the murdering Tories who had raided the Carolinas were 
captured and hanged, and when Cornwallis complained to Greene 
and threatened to retaliate, that General returned a list of fifty 
patriots who had been hanged by Cornw^allis and officers high in his 
command. 

From his camp, eastward of the Pedee, Greene sent General 
Morgan across the Broad River to operate on the British left and rear. 
Observing this, says Lossing, Cornwallis left his camp at Winnsboro 
and pushed northward between the Broad and Catawba rivers for 
the purpose of interposing his force between Greene and Morgan. 
Against the latter he had detached General Tarleton with about 
1,000 troops. Morgan was aware of this, and, after one retreat, took 
his stand at "The Cowpens," thirty miles west of King's Mountain, 
choosing rather to pick out a battle ground than to be overtaken 
in ffight. Of his men, 400 were placed in battle array on a rising 
ground, the same number of sharpshooters defended the approaches 
to the camp, and cavalr}^ w^as hidden in the woods. A furious battle 
ensued. In a skillful movement, in the form of a feigned retreat, 
Morgan turned so suddenly upon his pursuers, who believed the 
victory was secured to them, that they wavered. Seeing this the 
cavalry charged upon them, and the hidden reserve broke cover and 
made a successful charge upon Tarleton 's horsemen. The British 
were completely routed, and were pursued about tw^ehty miles. 

After this battle, Morgan was joined by General Greene after he 
had crossed the Catawba, and the two led their troops across country 
into Virginia, Cornwallis following them as fast as he could, but 
being constantly delayed by the streams which intersected his route, 
and which were constantly flooding immediatel}^ after the passage of 
the Americans; at last the British general gave up the chase and 
returned to camp at Hillsboro. On March i, 1781, Greene returned 



ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTALNS. 69 

cautiously into North Carolina with 5,000 troops, and two weeks later 
encountered Cornwallis at Guilford Court House, five miles from the 
present Greensboro, w^here a terrible battle was fought. Greene dis- 
posed his troops in three lines, some distance behind each other; 
supported by heavy cannonading, the British right, under Leslie, 
scattered the first and second lines, and, with the assistance of Col- 
onel Webster and the left, so demolished the third line of the Amer- 
icans that Greene ordered a retreat and retired, but left Cornwallis' 
troops in so badly shattered a condition that he could not pursue the 
patriots. It was this battle that induced Lord Fox to move in the 
English Parliament that the ministers conclude the American War. 
Spartanburg (pop, , 6,000; Spartanburg Inn, $2) is largely engaged 
in iron and gold mining, and is growing as a summer resort; Chero- 
kee Springs ($2) is seven miles distant, and Glenn Springs ($2) 
ten miles southeast by railway, via Becca Junction. Here crosses 
the railroad from Columbia to Hendersonville (p. 64) and Asheville, 
and another road leads to Greenwood and Augusta, Ga. Green- 
ville (37 m. west, pop., 9,000 ; Exchange; Mansion House, $2) is the 
terminus of two roads southward to Columbia and Augusta. Paris 
Mottntain (Altamont, $2.50) is an elevated resort, seven miles dis- 
tant, and Caesar's Head (p. 64) is fourteen miles from Marietta, the 
terminus of a short railroad north. The next station of note is Seneca, 
on the sources of the Savannah River, which we cross into Georgia at 
Madison. North of Seneca, at the end of a short railroad, is WalJialla 
(Bieman, Norman Park, $2), among the foothills of the Chattooga 
Mountains, where many families make their summer home. Small 
mountain villages follow, and fine distant views are obtained from the 
heights now tortuously traversed. At Toccoa are several small sum- 
mer hotels, and every opportunity for open-air enjoyment among the 
wild hills. Toccoa Falls (2 m.) is a bold cataract, 185 feet high, in the 
midst of romantic surroundings. Next comes Mount Airy, the highest 
point ( 1 , 590 feet) between Charlotte and Atlanta, and one of the favorite 
summer residences of Northern Georgia (Mount Airy Inn, $2; Wilcox 
Cottage, $2), A railroad extends from the next station, Corjielia^ 
twenty-one miles northeast along a romantic valley to Tallulah Falls 
(Cliff, $2.50; Grand View, $2, and others), becoming noted as a sum- 
mering place. The falls are in the deep gorge of the Tallulah, a trib- 
utary of the Savannah, descending from Standing Indian, a peak of 
the Blue Ridge (Nantahala Mountains), from whose western slopes 
the Hiawassee and Little Tennessee rivers take their rise. The 
water falls in a series of beautiful cascades an almost vertical distance 
of 400 feet. Other canons, cascades, and mountains in this region, 



70 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

added to its fine climate and picturesque population, combine to 
make this district one of the most beautiful and interesting in the 
United States. From Lula a branch goes south to Athens (p. 42). 
A few miles farther brings us into the highly cultivated valley of the 
Chattahoochee River, of which the central town is Gamesville (pop., 
5,000; Hunt, $2.50; Arlington, $2), for many years after the war the 
home of General Longstreet. It is a growing summer resort. In the 
mountains north is a gold-bearing region, around Dahlonega 
(22 m.), where once a United States Mint existed, and where profit- 
able hydraulic operations are still carried on. Mineral springs 
abound. From Gainesville the road follows the Chattahoochee south- 
ward, past many prosperous villages, to Atlanta, 648 miles from Wash- 
ington via Charlotte, and 873 miles via Asheville and Chattanooga. 
(For the continuation of this route to Florida, see Route 22.) 

Route 16.— The Slienancloali Valley Route. 

This route is not excelled for beauty of scenery by any between 
the North and South, since it follows the "Great Valley," between 
the Blue Ridge and the Alleghanies, from Central Pennsylvania, 
through Southwest Virginia and Eastern Tennessee, to Chattanooga. 
It properly begins (i) at Hagerstown, Md. (N. & W. Rd.), but through 
cars from New York (via B. & O. Rd.) enter upon it at Shenandoah 
Junction; distance from New York to Chattanooga, 900 miles; to 
Atlanta, 1,052 miles; also (2) it may begin at Norfolk (Route i6a, p. 
77). These two approaches join at Roanoke, Va. 

Hagerstown to Roanoke. 

Hagerstown (pop., 12,000; Hamilton, $2.50; Baldwi-n, $2.50) is a 
flourishing market town, connected with the North by the Cumber- 
land Valley Railroad, and with Baltimore by the Western Maryland 
Railroad. The neighborhood is interesting in its early history, and 
full of reminders of the Civil War, the great battles Antietam, 
Sharpsburg, and Gettysburg having occurred within a few miles, and 
innumerable skirmishes. From Hagerstown the line stretches south- 
ward, through Antietam, crosses the Potomac, and enters West Vir- 
ginia at Shepherdstown, where Lee crossed into Pennsylvania, July, 
1863. A few miles south is Shenandoah Junction, at the intersection 
of the trunk line of the B. & O. Rd. Here the through cars from New 
York and Philadelphia, via Baltimore, Washington, and Harper's 
Ferry, enter upon the Shenandoah Route, which now proceeds south- 



• • • • 



Shenandoah Valley I^oute 



BETWEEN 



THE NORTH 
AND SOUTH 



APPLY FOR ALL INFORMATION 
AT THE OFFICES OF THE 



Norfolk & 
Western R. R. 



• • • # 



RO UTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MO UN TAINS. 71 

ward along the base of South Mountain (the Blue Ridge), of which 
Loudoun Heights is the most prominent summit. Charleslow7i, 
W. Va., is the first important station. 

Here crosses the B. & O. Rd.'s Harper's Ferry & Valley branch 
from Harper's Ferry, which traverses the valley to Winchester, and 
then proceeds southward up the Shenandoah River to Strasburg and 
Staunton (p. 74), passing (near to) in succession the well-known water- 
ing places Rock-Enon and Capon Springs, Shenandoah Alum and 
Orkney Springs, and Rawley Springs. This was the only valley 
line before the Civil War, and witnessed the hardest battles of the 
campaigns of 1862 and 1864. 

This part of the country is rich in historical associations. Near 
Shenandoah Junction lived. Horatio Gates, Charles Lee, and Adam 
Stephen— Continental general officers. Charlestown has had its share 
of the principal episodes in local history. Hither came Braddock's 
boastful army, and hence it crept back to safety. Here John Brown 
"of Ossawatomie" was tried and hanged, after the fight at Harper's 
Ferry. This way (1862) came the first Union troops that entered the 
Valley of Virginia, and every road liere was the scene of often-re- 
newed fighting, beginning with the "demonstration" made by "Stone- 
wall" Jackson (Conf.) immediately after the battle of Winchester 
(September 19, 1864). Later, Sheridan (Fed.) and Jubal Early (Conf.) 
sparred at each other over this ground. Early having great success at 
first, but finally driven back. Within a few miles is Harewood House, 
the home of George Washington's elder brother Samuel. It was 
built under the superintendence of Washington himself, and still 
stands unchanged— a valuable example of the architecture of its time. 
President James Madison was married in it; and there Louis Phillipe 
and his two ducal brothers, Montpensier and Beaujelaix, were enter- 
tained as became princes. The face of the country waxes hilly as we 
proceed close to the foot of the Blue Ridge. Berryville, upon the 
ancient turnpike through Snicker's Gap to Winchester, is an interest- 
ing center to the student of history. Banks (Fed.) took possession of 
the place as early in the Civil War as 1861, following the road from 
Harper's Ferry to Winchester. In 1864, when Early was retreating 
from his Maryland campaign, loaded with plunder, here occurred a 
starp fight; subsequently, Sheridan made this point a center of exten- 
sive operations, and, on September 3, 1864, by a mutual surprise, a 
battle was precipitated in the afternoon between a large Confederate 
force and the Federal Eighth Corps, which ceased only when it w^as 
too dark to see. The region is full of colonial mementos also, some 
of which are visible from the cars. A mile or two beyond Boyce, for 
instance, we observe, off at the right, a stone house of old-fashioned 
style, which has been known for a century as " Saratoga," because 
built by Hessian prisoners captured with Burgoyne. Then comes 
White Post, a station in the center of that vast estate where Lord 
Fairfax built himself a country house, of no great size or elegance, 
called "Greenway Court," and, with the open, lavish hospitality char- 
acteristic of rich frontiersmen > he made it the scene of revelry and 



72 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

rough, hilarious sports, such as were enjoyed by the carousing, fox- 
hunting generation in which he lived. Here he dwelt when his former 
protege, Washington, had successfully prosecuted the War for Inde- 
pendence, and the deliverance of the colonies had been achieved. 

Near Riverton, where the old " Manassas Branch of the Virginia 
Midland Railway" crosses, the Shejiandoah River is first seen — a 
stream as attractive as the suggestions of its name lead us to antici- 
pate. The long, lofty mountain, isolated and fine in outline, which 
stands in the center of the valley ahead on the right, is Massanuttefi 
Mountain, and it is divided lengthwise by an interior trough-like 
depression filled with a curious people and redolent of quaint stories. 
The* proper Shenandoah River and Valley lie beyond (west of) that 
mountain, but this railway passes east of it through Page Valley. 
The village of Front Royal, two miles from the station, is 150 years 
old, and was formerly celebrated as the principal place of making 
the old-fashioned strong "Virginia wagons" used for heavy freighting 
over the mountains, and by emigrants going to the new West._ 

Here occurred some exceedingly interesting incidents during the 
Civil War, in one of which a mere handful of Confederate cavalry, 
under a boyish commander, dashed into the village, captured the 
provost-guard, and made off with it successfully, though two whole 
regiments of bewildered Federals were at hand to protect the place. 
The guerrilla Ashby (whose home was up in the Blue Ridge, not far 
away) was hovering about here much of the time, while Jackson 
enacted his series of victories in this district; and, onMay 22, 1864, here 
took place one of the most disgraceful routs Union soldiers ever were 
ashamed of, four companies of Flournoy's Virginians attacking a 
thousand or so of Bank's army, entrenched on Guard Hill, with such 
impetuosity as to scare them in utter confusion from their works, with 
great loss of life, stores, and artillery. These disasters were requited 
later in the same year, however, when Sheridan, driving back Early, 
fought so stubbornly along this very limestone ridge which the rail- 
way track follows, and ended the campaign by the victory at Cedar 
Creek, five miles west of Front Royal, which has been made the theme 
of the famous poem and painting, " Sheridan's Ride." 

Luray and the Grottoes. — Luray(pop., 1,400; Mansion Inn, $2; 
Laurence, $2; Rust, $2; free omnibuses) is a rustic village in the 
midst of beautiful scenery and a charming summer climate. Its 
principal attraction is the series of Caverns of Luray, one and one- 
half miles from the station, which rank among the most extensive 
and interesting caves, fitted for public view, in the world. Admis- 
sion, during the day, $1 ; after 6.00 p. m., $1.50; for parties of 
less than six jDcrsons an extra charge of $2 (for the party) is made 
for turning on the electric lights. The cave is easily entered by a 
short tunnel in the hillside; is dry, so that no protection to the cloth- 
ing is needed; is traversed by board-walks, stairways, and bridges; is 









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THE NATURAL BRIDGE, LOOKING UP STREAM. 



^?^;':^-'JA)fi-ff!' 




The Hotel Laurance, Luray, 

Page County, Virg-inia. 

*^T* HIS is an all-the-year-round hotel, situated on the highest point in town and 
(0) the nearest to the Caverns. Since the burning of the famous Luray 
^^ Inn, November, i8gi (which has not yet been rebuilt), The Laurance has been 
recognized by the traveling public as the leading house in town, and though 
no way pretentious, is very comfortable, homelike, and cheerful, and just the 
place for tourists en route to break their journey and rest over night. Pure 
water. Lithia water is hauled fresh every day for use of guests from a 
mountain spring of immense volume, and so, with all modern plumbing in the 
house, our sanitary condition is excellent. Visitors stopping at The Laurance 
make no mistake. A good livery is connected with the house and our facilities 
for transferring visitors to and from the Caverns are equal to any emergency. 
The Laurance is a favorite of the Wheelmen and has the recognition of the 
L. A.W. Association, has been running ten years, and stands upon its merits. So 
stop at The Laurance and you will be pleased. Rates, $2.00 per day; $10.00 
per week. 

JOSEPH PARKINSON, 
^ Owner and Manager. 



ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. 73 

lighted throughout by electricity, and visitors are furnished with intel- 
ligent guides who have given names to every feature. Everyone 
is strongly recommended to visit these caves, since the experience is 
instructive as well as highly enjoyable. 

Many accounts of the caves have been written, one of which, 
very complete and based upon explorations and illustrations made 
by The Century Magazine in 1882, forms a chapter in Ernest Inger- 
soll's " Country Cousins" (Harper & Bros., New York, 1884, $2.25). 
The caves consist of a labyrinth of subterranean chambers, passages, 
ravines, and stream-beds, filled with column-like stalagmites, curious 
excrescences of lime-formed rock upon the floor and walls, and with 
hanging stalactites, largely of a thin, flat form resembling curtains 
or heavy cloths hung corner-wise, and slender and strangely twisted 
and distorted pendants, translucent and often richly colored. The 
stoppage between the morning and evening trains is sufficient to 
allow a good view of these caverns, though the vicinity of the village 
invites one to many pleasant excursions. Among other trips, one 
may go (9 m.) to the top of Stony Maiu Mountain (alt., 4,031 ft.), 
where a "camp" of log-houses offers a place of rude but comfortable 
entertainment, with unlimited scenery, and shooting and fishing in 
their season. 

From Luray southward the train runs up the Page Valley, past 
Swift Run Gap in the Blue Ridge, through which came the first white 
explorers of these western valleys, and w^here were some of the 
liveliest cavalry operations of the Civil War. Port Republic was 
the scene of the frightful battle of June 10, 1862, in which Jackson 
defeated the Union army, under Shields, and began to recover the 
whole valley for the Confederates. Cross Keys, another battle-point, 
is near by, and the peak at this northern extremity of Massanutten 
Mountain w^as an important Confederate signal-station throughout 
all the valley campaigns. Along this part of the line great quantities 
of iron ore are produced, and extensive blast-furnaces are seen. The 
region also yields manganese, marble, copper, kaolin, ochre, fire-clay, 
and other valuable minerals, besides the timber products of the high- 
lands, of which tan -bark is an important item. At Luray is the 
largest tannery in Virginia, employing over 400 men. 

Grottoes {Grottoes, $3) is the station for Weyer's Caves, half a 
mile to the westward. These are a series of caverns very similar to 
those of Luray in general features, but having individual interest 
sufficient to make a visit to them well worth while. They are pre- 
pared with walks, a service of electric lights, guides, etc., for comfort- 
able inspection, and are now officially known as the " Grottoes of the 
Shenandoah." Admission, same as at Luray. 



n GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

The chambers are larger than those at Luray, giving a more satis- 
factory perspective view of their contents, and other special peculi- 
arities are noticeable. These caves have been known for more than a 
century, and were enthusiastically described, in his "Notes on' Vir- 
ginia," by Thomas Jefferson, and by " Porte Crayon," in Harper's 
Magazine for 1854, It may be added that many lesser caverns are 
known throughout this limestone region, and that their peculiarly 
interesting drapery-like characteristics are duplicated in the cele- 
brated caves of Hungary, and in those near Manitou Springs, Colo., 
at the base of Pike's Peak. 

Basic City (Hotel Brandon, $3), just below Grottoes, is at the 
intersection of the C. & O. Ry., and was formerly called Waynesboro 
Junction. A small town has recently grown up here around some 
great iron-works making steel by the basic process. The favorable 
situation, with reference to transportation, coal, coke, iron ore, and 
the materials for mixing with it in smelting, is likely to ca^jise this 
part of the valley to grow. steadily as an iron smelting and general 
manufacturing district. 

The Chesapeake & Ohio Railway extends from Washington and 
Newport News (p. 32) to Cincinnati and Louisville. Its Washington 
line passes through the center of Virginia, over many of the battle- 
fields of the Civil War, to Gordonsville, where it is joined by the line 
from the ocean terminal, via Richmond, and then turns west, through 
Charlottesville and the Blue Ridge, to the crossing of the Shenandoah 
Valley at Waynesboro, one mile west of Basic City. Waynesboro 
(pop., 1,000 ; Hotel Brunswick, $2.50) is the seat of a military college, 
and the scene of a notable defeat of Early's Confederate army by 
Union troops under Custer in March, 1865. Staicnton is a more 
important towm, twelve miles west, noted for its wealth and large 
seminaries for girls. It is near the southern terminus (at Lexington) 
of the B. & O. Rd. from Harper's Ferry (p. 71). West from Staun- 
ton, the main line of the C. & O. Ry. continues over the Alleghanies 
by a route which is not only exceedingly picturesque, but passes 
through the historic " Virginia Springs." The principal watering- 
places along its line, or adjacent to it, are Rockbridge and Variety 
Springs ; Warm, Hot, and Healing Springs near Clifton Forge ; White 
Sulphur Spring Sy^.^i'Co. Red Sulphur, Salt Sulphur, Old Sweet, and 
Fort Springs near by. The line then descends the Kanawha Valley, 
through the coal regions, to Charlesto7t, W. Va.; reaches the Ohio 
River at Ashland, Ky., and passes thence to Cincimiati along the 
south bank of the Ohio. Another line extends from Ashland, through 
Lexington and Frankfort, Ky., to Louisville. This road also oper- 
ates the former Richmond & Alleghany Railroad, an exceedingly 
picturesque route between Richmond and Clifton Forge, which fol- 
lows the James River to its source, and passes through Lynchburg, 
Balcony Falls, Natural Bridge, and Lexington. 

Lexington is a town which Southern people are fond of calling 




BLUEFIELD INN, Bluefield, W. Va. 




MAPLE SHADE INN, Pulaski, Va 



••• 



Norfolk & Western R. R. 

Virginia and Ohio Line 

Best Route 



BETWEEN 



OHIO, INDIANA, 
ILLINOIS 



AND 



VIRGINIA AND 
THE GAROLINAS 



.9: 



ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. 75 

the "Athens of Virginia," because of its intellectual society and 
regard for books. This arises from the fact that since its foundation 
it has been a school town, and has the celebrated Military Institute, 
where •' Stonewall" Jackson was a teacher and many Confederate 
officers were educated. Older than this is the Washington and 
Lee College, established previous to the Revolutionary War. It was 
fostered by Washington. Lexington was occupied by Federal troops 
during the war, but after its close both institutions were revived. 
In 1865 General R. E. Lee became President of the college, and 
remained there until his death (October, 1870). He is buried in a 
mausoleum at the rear of the college chapel, beneath a remarkably 
beautiful recumbent monument, and Jackson's grave is in the neigh- 
boring cemetery. Several other persons of wide reputation live or 
have lived in Lexington. It is the southern terminus of the B. & O. 
Rd. from Harper's Ferry (p. 71). 

Crab-Tree Falls and the Natural Bridge. 

Though the vicinity of Waynesboro is a w^ell-cultivated farming 
and grazing region, the face of the country southward soon becomes 
too rough for farming, and the scene from the car windows is an 
ever-varying panorama of rugged hills and deep ravines. 

Almost the only signs of human occupation are small log cabins, 
whose occupants earn a scanty living by chopping logs, gathering 
tan-bark and sumac leaves, and in hunting, fishing, and feeble farm- 
ing. The hills we are passing across — a tangled series of folds 
belonging to the Blue Ridge — are called the Big Levees, and are 
dominated eastwardly by the Humpback Mountains. Their drainage 
forms the uppermost source of the Shenandoah. The streams which 
go to make it up are countless, prattling down every green hollow. 
Now and then a pretty cascade is seen, like the Cypress Falls oppo- 
site Riverside, leaping fierce and white out of the wooded precipice 
into a deep and quiet pool. The greatest of all cataracts in the 
Virginia mountains, however, is the Crab-Tree Falls, reached by 
the old turnpike from Vesuvius to Montebello and the Tye River 
Valley east of the Blue Ridge. Sheridan once passed a large part of 
his army across the mountains by this road. At the very summit, 
from among the topmost crags of Pinnacle Peak, one of the highest 
in Virginia, comes the Crab-Tree to descend 3,000 feet in a horizontal 
distance of 2,000 feet, forming "a series of cascades athwart the 
face of the rock, over which the water shimmers in waves of beauty, 
like veils of lace trailed over glistening steel." It is possible to reach 
the foot of these falls and climb to their top, for any one who wishes 
an adventurous undertaking, with camp life and sport with the rod 
as a part of the reward. 

Through the gaps of the hills wonderful landscapes open out 
from the car windows — far views southward and westward into the 
richly blue folds of the mountains ; but chiefly our eyes are held by 



76 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

green dells, the romantic river, and the captivating bits of ruined 
canal. This is a region in which the mining and manufacture of iron 
has been pursued for a century, and recently an industrial town has 
been founded at j5?/^«« Vista {,Buena Vista Hotel, %2. so), iorty-tssfo 
miles south of Basic City, with mines, iron furnaces, steel works (by 
the basic process), paper mills, and other factories. At Lock Laird, 
just beyond, the C. & O. Ry. (p. 74) is crossed, and then comes the 
station for the Natural Bridge, which is two and one-half miles 
northwest by hack (round trip, $1), along an elevated road, giving 
fine views of the James River and many mountains. The Appledore 
and Pavilion hotels ($3.50) and their cottages occupy a "park" near 
the Bridge, which is a natural arch of limestone spanning a stream 
gorge and connecting two of the many lofty hills. The height of 
the arch is 150 feet, of the whole bridge 215 feet; width, 100 feet ; 
span, 90 feet. As to its origin, it appears to be simply the remaining 
part of the roof of a former water tunnel, the remainder of which has 
caved in and been washed awa3^ This simple explanation, however, 
while disposing of some foolish rhapsody, does not detract from the 
beauty or grandeur of the scene of which it is the central part, and 
there is probably no more thoroughly satisfactory "natural curiosity" 
in the country. In addition the neighborhood affords excellent 
opportunities for riding, fishing, mountain climbing, and other out- 
door amusements in a healthful climate. 

The lawns are cleared around the head of a shallow ravine, the 
extreme upper point of which is occupied by an enormous mineral 
spring and fish basin. Down the ravine from the spring goes a well- 
graded pathway, which quickly disappears in the woods standing 
along the tumbling cascades of a brook that traverses the estate until 
it has descended into a lovely glen. A step forward and the bridge 
is before us ! 

The first impression is the lasting one — its majesty! It stands 
alone. There is nothing to distract the eye. The first point of view 
is at sufficient distance, and somewhat above the level of the founda- 
tion. Solid walls of rock and curtaining foliage guide the vision 
straight to the narrows where the arch springs colossal from side to 
side. Whatever question may arise as to its origin, there is nothing 
hidden or mysterious in its appearance. The material of the walls is 
the material of the bridge. Its piers are braced against the moun- 
tains, its enormous keystone bears down with a weight which holds 
all the rest immovable, yet which does not look ponderous. Every 
part is exposed to our view at a glance, and all parts are so propor- 
tionate to one another and to their surroundings — so simple and com- 
parable to the human structures with which we are familiar, that the 



ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. Tl 

effect upon our minds is not to stun, but to satisfy completely our 
sense of the beauty of curve and upright, grace and strength, drawn 
upon a magnificent scale. Crossing the torrent upon a foot bridge, 
we wander up the creek a mile or more, past Hemlock Island; past the 
cave where saltpetre was procured for making powder, in 1812, and 
again during the Confederate struggle, and even penetrate the low 
portal within which a " lost" river murmurs and echoes to our ears 
its unseen history, as it plunges through the dark recesses of its 
subterranean course; and the farther we go the more rugged, thickly 
wooded, and charmingly untamed is the gulch. 

The glen above the bridge extends for a mile to Lace Water Falls, 
where Cedar Creek leaps 100 feet from the upper level. This glen 
was probably once an immense cave. The path follows the stream 
or is cut into the rocks that form its bank. The bridge seen from 
this (the upper) side is imposing, and its magnitude is perhaps more 
striking; but on the whole it is not so effective, regarded as an 
object by itself, as when studied from below.* 

Southward from Natural Bridge the line follows the windings of 
the James past Buchanan (the C. & O. Ry. is seen on the other side 
of the river), crosses a wild mountain ridge, and descends rapidly to a 
junction with the Norfolk & Western's line from Norfolk at Roanoke. 

Route i6a. — Norfolk to Roanoke. 

This is the old main line (257 m.) of the Norfolk & Western Rail- 
road, an historic road crossing Southern Virginia over ground which 
witnessed the bloodiest closing scenes of the Civil War. Suffolk 
(23 m. from Norfolk; pop., 2,000; Commercial $2) is a village on the 
western edge of the Great Dismal Swamp, where arrangem.ents can 
be made for a trip by boat to Lake Drummond, in the center of the 
swamp — the scene of Thomas Moore's pathetic poem. An abso- 
lutely straight piece of track, laid through a dead level of sandy pine 
and oak scrub, takes the train to Petersburg (p. 43), where connec- 
tion is made for Richmond, and south by the Atlantic Coast Line. 
West of Petersburg the land improves and becomes replete with 
military associations. Burkeville, the first station of consequence, 
and in the midst of a fertile region, is the junction of the Richmond 
& Danville Railroad. 

Every station and roadway along this part of the line has some 
heroic war story to tell — Sailor's Creek, Fort Gregg, Five Forks, 
where the Confederacy made its final fight, and Cumberland 
Church, where, in a sharp skirmish, the Federal forces suffered 
their last repulse. Just beyond Cumberland Church is the High 
Bridge (i m. long), spanning a depression rich in corn and tobacco. 

* Condensed from Shenaiidoah and Beyond, by Ernest Ingersoll. Published 
by the Norfolk & Western Ry., 1884. 



78 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

The latter crop is the staple production of the region. Here a 
serenely beautiful landscape is spread before and beneath the eye, 
its horizon formed by the varied outlines of the distant and always 
admirable Blue Ridge. In this vale, now so sunny and peaceful, 
happened one of the most impulsive cavalry fights of the war, where 
horses dashed breast to breast, and saber clashed against saber, in 
the fury of hand-to-hand conflict — an unnecessary battle, for Lee 
surrendered within a few hours. 

Near Farinville, the center of this fine agricultural region, stand 
Hampden Sidney College and the Presbyterian Union Theological 
Seminary, besides a popular watering place called the Farmville 
Lithia Springs. Pamplin's Depot is noted for its factories of red clay 
pipes, and not far beyond is Appomattox station, near that world- 
renowned court house where (April 9, 1865) Lee's rebellious army of 
" tattered uniforms but bright muskets " surrendered its flags to the 
unbroken Union. A little farther the train emerges from the hills upon 
the banks of James River, and follows its picturesque bendings into 
Lynchburg (p. 57), where connection is made with the Piedmont Air 
Line. Beyond Lynchburg the train passes westward through beau- 
tiful hills at the base of the Blue Ridge. Liberty is an old town 
celebrated for tobacco and for several flourishing academies for 
young men and women. A newer part of it is called Bedford City. 
Here the Peaks of Otter, the highest points of the Blue Ridge 
in Virginia, are conspicuous and beautiful at the right. The 
hotel close to the top of the sharpest of their twin summits can be 
seen. The excursion (6 m. by private conveyance) is one of great 
enjoyment, and views of wonderful beauty are obtained from the 
road and from the peaks, of which the southwest one has an altitude 
of 3,875 feet, and the other (Flattop) of 4,001 fe»t. Blue Ridge 
Springs and Coy iter's Springs, lively summer resorts with mineral ( 
waters, are passed, and the train reaches Roanoke. 

Roanoke (pop., 20,000; Roa?ioke, $3 to $5; Ponce de Leon, $2.50; 
St. James, $2) is an enterprising industrial city which has grown 
up here since the completion, in 1882, of the Shen. Valley Ry., and 
its junction with the N. & W. Rd., by reason of the manufactures 
which the proximity of iron and coal, other minerals and valuable 
earths, timber, tan bark, fruit (the canning industry is important 
throughout all this part of the State), and the central position of the 
place as to railroads, have made a profitable investment to their 
promoters. A large business in supplying goods at wholesale to the 
surrounding country followed, and the healthful and beautiful situ- 
ation attracted and kept a population. Three iron furnaces, a rolling 
mill, a, bridge-building shop, and the railway machine shops, are the 
largest concerns, but many lesser factories employ many men. An 
important local railway, the Roanoke Southern, now a part of the 



ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. 79 

Norfolk & Western System, extends southward to Winston-Salem, 
giving a short line to the South Atlantic Coast, via Greensboro. 

Roanoke to Bristol, Tenn. 

The journey from Roanoke to Bristol (i 5 1 m.) is all the way through 
stately and beautiful mountains, and past a series of small towns, 
many of which have an industrial importance, or are of old repute as 
summer resorts. Salem (pop., 2,000; Hotel Duval, Salem House, 
each $2.50) has Roanoke College, an iron furnace, brick yards, and 
other factories; Roanoke Red Sulphur Springs ($2.50) is ten miles 
distant by stage. Shawsville is the station for Alleghany Springs 
($2.50), three and one-half miles by stage, and Crockett Arsenic-Li thia 
Springs ($2. 50), seven miles by stage, Christiaiisburg (pop., 1,500; 
Judkins House, $1.50) has near it Motitgomery White Sulphur 
Springs (I3), Yellow Sulphur Springs (I2.50), three and one- 
half miles by stage, and Blacksburg (3 m.; Cherokee Inn, $2.50, the 
site of the Virginia Agricultural College). At Radford {^a^iorA Inn, 
$2. 50) a manufacturing and railway town is rising at the crossing of 
New River (the upper course of the Great Kanawha). Westward, 
down New River, goes a line to the Pocahontas " Flattop " coal and 
coke regions, where it divides, one line passing northward through 
West Virginia and Kentucky to Columbus, Ohio, and the other down 
the Clinch River Valley to Cumberland Gap, and thence connecting 
through to Knoxville and Louisville. Fifteen miles west of Radford 
is Eggleston's Sulphur Springs (I2), whence a rough road goes 
back to the untutored heights (4,400 feet) about Alountain Lake (or 
Salt Pond), near the summit of the Alleghanies, a wild, beautiful, 
Alpine region (also reached from Blacksburg), with a fair hotel. 
Pulaski {Maple Shade Inn, $3; Hotel Pulaski, $2) is another energetic 
manufacturing center, developing out of an old market town, 
in a beautiful situation. A branch railroad leads southward into the 
Cripple Creek mining district, where various ores of iron, zinc, lead, 
and other valuable products of mine and forest are obtained, and 
many furnaces and other factories of raw material are springing up. 
Pulaski Alum Springs are eight miles distant by hack. Max Meadows 
Inn (special rates) is similar, and is the center of large cattle-grazing 
interests. Wytheville (pop., 4,000; Boyd's, $2; Fourth Avenue Hotel, 
$2; boarding-houses). The village, one-half mile from the station, 
has long been a famous summer resort, and is coming to be a winter 
refuge on account of the mild and healthful climate. It is a pleasant 



80 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

old town, where some noted people have dwelt, and is steadily improv- 
ing. Near by are many mineral springs, and Sharon Alum Springs 
are only eighteen miles distant, Marion is a market town, with woolen 
factories and the State Insane Asylum; and at Glade Springs are 
extensive horse-breeding farms and the medicinal Seven Springs. 
Eight miles north (by a branch) are the gypsum beds and saline wells 
of Saltville, which yield 10,000,000 tons of salt annually. 

Saltville was an important objective point for the Federal cavalry 
attack upon this region, in the early spring of 1864, wnth the special 
purpose of destroying the railroad and certain sources of Confederate 
army supplies. It began with a march up New River by Crook (one 
of whose* commanders was Rutherford B. Hayes), and a frightful 
battle on the slope of Cloyd's Mountain, near Christian sburg. The 
Confederates were driven from their entrenchments, and the railway, 
bridges, and military stores at and near Newbern were destroyed. 
While Crook was operating along New River in this destructive man- 
ner, another cavalry force, under Averill, was sent to work all the 
ruin it could along this more western part of the line, and especially 
to destroy the works at Saltville, which were almost the only reliance 
of the Confederacy for this commodity. Averill struggled over the 
mountains, but learned that the defenses of Saltville (still crowning 
her hills) were too strong for him, since he had no artillery, and there- 
fore turned southward against the bullet-making lead works at 
Wytheville. But the Confederate general, John Morgan, moved his 
troops and guns at once from Saltville to Wytheville and fought 
Averill so well that the latter retreated eastward and contented him- 
self with wrecking the railway and shops near Christiansburg. «; 

Passing Emory, with its college for boys, and Abingdon, noted for 
its girls' schools, this stage of the line terminates at Bristol (pop., 
6,000; Fairmont, special rates; Hamilton, $2; Woods, $2.50; St. 
Lawrence, special rates), the terminus of the N. & W. Rd. and the 
beginning of the E. T. , Va. & Ga. division of the Southern Ry. The 
boundary between Virginia and Tennessee divides the town along its 
principal street into two municipalities, Bristol, Va., and Bristol, 
Tenn., and sometimes occasions amusing legal (or illegal) complica- 
tions. A branch line runs north to Cmnberland Gap, historically 
interesting and the scene of recent iron works and Northern coloniza- 
tion enterprises. 

Bristol to Chattanooga. 

The route now enters upon the territory of the S. Ry. The fxrst 
point of interest \^ Johnson City {2^ m.), an important and progressive 
little city, and the junction for 

Roan Mountain or " Cloudland. "—The Roan Mountain Summit 



ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. 81 

is the loftiest part of the Appalachian range, and the Cloudland Hotel 
is the highest inhabited point east of Colorado, From Johnson City 
a narrow-gauge railroad runs twenty-six miles up the valley of Doe 
River. Immediately at Elizabethtown (lo m.) begins a series of wild 
gorges, walled in by cliffs and promontories several hundred feet 
in height, rugged, precipitous, and pinnacled with spires of rock, but 
everywhere richly draped in the foliage of trees, vines, and flowering 
shrubs. The rocks slant at a steep angle, are of various colors, and 
frown upon the stream which plunges down the canon in a series of 
white cascades, leaving hardly room for the track. It is doubtful if 
there is a wilder and more beautiful gorge than this, traversed by a 
railway, anywhere east of the Rocky Mountains, and it would be well 
worth the tourist's while only to make the trip up and down it, sleep- 
ing over night at the hotel at the railway terminus. Near the farther 
end of the line are the Cranberry iron mines and furnaces, where a 
fine quality of magnetic iron ore is smelted. The terminus of the 
railroad is at Roan Station, where there is a comfortable hotel ($3^ 
From this point a daily stage runs to the summit of Roan Mountain 
(12 m., fare $2, baggage extra), and to 

Cloudland, a large, substantially-built hotel ($2.50) and collection 
of cottages. The altitude is 6,394 feet, and the summer temperature 
varies only from minimum 56° F. to maximum 74° F., according to the 
records of the United States Meteoric station maintained there. The 
locality is said to be absolutely curative of hay fever. The hotel is 
supplied with spring water and heated by steam and open wood fires. 
Music for dancing, billiard-rooms, a bowling-alley, and broad piazzas 
give opportunities for in-door amusements, while tennis courts, walk- 
ing, riding, fishing, and camping trips invite the guests out of 
doors. Horses can be hired at $2 a day. 

View from Roaji Mountain. — " Standing on the summit of Roan 
and on the boundary line between Tennessee and North Carolina, 
we are in the presence of a dozen mountains that were old before the 
Alps were born, and not one of them has a rival in height between 
the Great Continental Divide and the Atlantic Ocean. To the north- 
east towers Grandfather, the loftiest peak in the whole line of the 
Blue Ridge, while directly opposite, and dimly outlined against the 
sky, is Clingman's Dome, the culminating of the Big Smokies, and 
second in altitude to Mitchell's Peak alone. To the south, and near 
by, looms the Black Mountain, so called from the somber firs which 
sweep in unbroken forests over its crest; and beyond it are the others 
of this giant cluster — Mitchell among them, the supreme point, 
more than 6,700 feet high, of the Appalachian system — while of 
6 



82 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

peaks 4,000 feet high or more, a hundred are in sight. The Roan 
itself, which commands this view 150 miles in every direction, is 200 
feet higher than Mount Washington. It does not culminate, how- 
ever, as does the New Hampshire mountain, in a mass of naked 
granite with scanty vegetation in the chinks of crumbling rocks at its 
base, but its summit expands into a rolling meadow, richly green 
with pasture grasses." — New York Tribune, Nov. 20, 188^. 

The surrounding region is very interesting to the mineralogist, 
geologist, or botanist. The rocks are of the Laurentian period, the 
oldest recognized by science, and abounding in minerals. Within a 
few miles magnetic iron ore is mined, gold and gems are washed 
from the beds of the streams, and great numbers of pre-historic mica 
mines may be found. The botany of these mountains has always 
been regarded as peculiarly rich and interesting, the altitude causing 
many almost Alpine plants to flourish near the summit, while sub- 
tropical species may be plucked at the base. Game is. scarce, but 
excellent fishing for trout and other species can be had in all the 
mountain valleys. 

Johnson City to Knoxville. — East Tennessee presents many 
points of interest. At Jonesboro was the first settlement in the 
State — Scotch-Irish immigrants from North Carolina. Wonderful 
views of the mighty mountains of the Roan and Smoky ranges, along 
the Carolina border, are caught as the train rolls across a rich and 
thickly occupied region toward Greenville (pop., 2,000; Mason, $2; 
Grand Central, special [rates), the most important town in East 
Tennessee. This was the home of Andrew Johnson, President of 
the United States, 1865-68, a monument to whom is conspicuous on a 
hilltop east of the village. Rogersville Junction is connected by a 
branch line with Rogersville (15'^ m. north), where are extensive 
quarries of the celebrated mottled Tennessee marble. Hale Springs 
($2) is a summer resort eleven miles north of Rogersville. Morris- 
town (pop., 3,000; Virginia, $2), near where the confluence of the 
French Broad and Nolichucky rivers forms the Tennessee River, is 
the next station. Here comes in the Piedmont Route (Southern Ry.) 
from Salisbury and Asheville, and this way come tourists from the 
West and Northwest to the mountain resorts of Western North 
Carolina (p. 65). Another railway runs north to Clinch River and 
Cumberland Gap, ten miles north, on which road is Tate Springs, an 
elevated watering-place, which has been resorted to for a great many 
years by Southerners. One large hotel ($3) and two or three lesser 
ones form the center of a small summer village. 

The country below Morristown is the rich " Newmarket Valley"; 



ROUTES EAST OF ALLEGHANY MOUNTALNS. 83 

and the Holston River is crossed at Strawberry Plains, a few miles 
below which this river enters the Tennessee near the city of 

Knoxville (pop. , 30,000; Imperial, $3; Knox, $3; New Schubert, $3; 
Palace, $2.50; Lamar, $2; Hotel Vendome, $3). This is the largest 
and most important city in East Tennessee, and one of the foremost 
in the South. It occupies a somewhat hilly site, upon the bank of the 
Tennessee, and has steamboat navigation during the season of high 
water. The city is not only the market town of a wide agricultural 
and grazing region, but has a remarkably large and valuable whole- 
sale and jobbing trade. Gay Street, the main thoroughfare (electric 
cars from the station to the hotels and all parts of the city), is a 
solidly-built avenue, at the river end of which is the court house, 
from whose cupola may be gained a view hardly to be equaled in 
the United States for pastoral beauty, with distant mountains. The 
older eastern part of town is uninteresting, except for the home of 
Parson Brownlow, the famous 'abolitionist. Westward the city 
stretches for a mile along prettily-shaded streets, and contains the 
homes of many wealthy men, which now extend far down the bluffs 
overlooking the river. The loop-line of electric cars in this direction 
affords a pleasant excursion. The new Episcopal cJiurch is a notable 
piece of architecture. One hilltop is occupied by the building and 
spacious grounds of the University of Ten7iessee. On another, in 
this direction, are the remains (rapidly being swept away) of Fort 
Sanders. 

\ Battle of Knoxville. — In 1863 Maj.-Gen. Ambrose E. Burnside 
commanded the Federal forces in this region, where there was a large 
Union sentiment among the people, and where, by his occupation, he 
prevented a junction of Bragg's Western Confederate army with 
Lee's army in Virginia. After the battle of Chickamauga (p. 107), 
Longstreet, with 20,000 men, was sent against him, whereupon Burn- 
side withdrew into Knoxville and greatly strengthened its fortifica- 
tions, of which Fort Sanders was the citadel. The first attack was 
repulsed, but the Federals were soon confined to their works, which 
were completely invested, cutting the Union army off from supplies 
and all communications with the North, which felt extreme anxiety 
as to its fate, knowing that starvation would soon compel surrender. 
Late in November, Longstreet prepared for an assault. He secured 
a point for his batteries commanding Fort Sanders, and was com- 
pleting preparations, when he received word of Bragg's defeat at 
Chattanooga (p. 108) and decided that he must capture Knoxville at 
once, if at all, since Grant was now free to send large forces to its 
relief. On the night of November 28th, he assaulted Fort Sanders, 
and next day there was fought an almost hand-to-hand conflict of 



84 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

several hours' duration, whicii was one of the most determined and 
bloody battles of the war. " The Nationals had formed a network of 
wire from stump to stump in front of the fort, and in this the storming 
party became fearfully entangled, while the guns of the fort, doubly 
shotted, made havoc in their ranks. The assailants finally gained the 
ditch and attempted to scale the parapet, and one officer reached the 
summit and planted a Mississippi flag there, but instantly his dead 
body and the flag fell into the ditch. Very soon 300 of the assailants 
in the ditch surrendered and the assault ceased." Heavy columns of 
National troops under Sherman (p. 85) were now approaching Long- 
street's rear, and, perceiving his peril, Longstreet raised the siege 
and retreated toward Virginia. 

Knoxville has very large and valuable manufacturing interests in ^ 
the way of iron furnaces, rolling mills, car factories, machine shops, 
woolen and cotton mills, and small industries. These and the other 
business enterprises are due largely to the city's favorable situation 
with reference to coal, iron, limestone, and other minerals and raw 
materials, and to being a natural center for transportation lines. 
A steam packet makes double weekly trips between Knoxville and 
Dandridge, Tenn., giving a charming voyage on the Tennessee and 
French Broad rivers. Besides the main Southern Railway line along 
the valley, three other railroads center here : 

(i) To Middlesboro, Ky., Cumber la7id Gap, and West Virginia 
(Knox., Cumb. Gap & Louisville Rd.). 

(2) To Cmcmnati and Louisville, via Jellico. (Route 17.) 

(3) To Atlanta, via the Marietta & North Georgia Ry. This new 
line extends southward along the western base of the Chilhowee 
Mountains to the gap made by the Hiawassee River. At Tellico 
Junction, south of Knoxville, it crosses a short line from Athens, 
Tenn., to Tellico Plains. In this neighborhood are mineral springs 
and resorts of local importance, such as the Red Mountains and 

White Cliff Springs (alt., 3,000 ft.), where small hotels exist. 
At Blue Ridge Junction, near Morgantown, Ga., (taken to pieces in 
1863, by Sherman, to build a bridge over the Little Tennessee) a 
branch leads west to Murphy (p. 65). Returning from Knoxville, 
in the middle of December, 1863, all of Sherman's army was halted' 
along the Hiawassee and Little Tennessee, occupying for rest and, 
recuperation these fertile valleys and well-supplied villages, while, 
the cavalry entered the mountains at Murphy in pursuit of wagoii 
trains and to collect horses and recruits. Ellinjoy, Jasper, Canton, 
and Marietta (p. 114) are successive stations to Atlanta. The dis- 



RO UTES EAST OF ALLEGHAN V A/0 UN TAINS. 85 

tance is 205 miles, through a rural region and with a wholly local 
service. 

(4) To Maryvi'lle, fifteen miles south. 
From Knoxville Southward (Southern Ry.) is an interesting 
journey through the populous valley of the Tennessee. The coun- 
try opens, though the heights of the Unaka, or Great Smoky Range, 
still tower blue and very mountain-like in the east over the tops of 
the near Chilhowee Hills, while the Cumberland Mountains form the 
western horizon. At London the river is crossed upon a bridge 1,800 
feet long, giving a lovely view. A short distance above the bridge 
the Little Tennessee enters from the east, and quantities of grain 
are brought down both rivers for shipment at this point. Large 
steamers make regular trips from the lower river as far up as Kings- 
ton, an old and important town on the Tennessee, a few miles below 
Loudon, and small steamers ascend to Knoxville and beyond. Lou- 
don and Kingston are connected by a daily line of packets. Sweet- 
water, Athens (branch eastward to the Red Mountain summering 
resorts), and Riceville are small market towns, and between Calhoun 
and Cleveland the beautiful Hiawassee River is crossed. Clevela?td 
(pop., 4,000; Hotel Ocoee, $2, station eating-house) is a pretty and 
active town which is growing into favor as a summer residence. 
Here a branch diverges southward to Cohutta, forming a cut-oif to 
Atlanta, and certain through cars go that way. (See Route 22.) 
Below Cleveland the train rounds the Oak Mountains, turns west- 
ward and enters Chattanooga along the base of Missionary Ridge. 

All this region was swept by Sherman, early in December, 1863, 
on his rapid march from Chattanooga to relieve Burnside, besieged 
at Knoxville. The Confederates had burned all the bridges, but 
they were repaired. The cavalry came up at Athens, and the whole 
column hurried on to Loudon, which was abandoned, after much 
destruction, by the Confederates under Vaughn. The loss of the 
bridge here diverted the army south to Morgantown, where the Little 
Tennessee was crossed, and a new concentration was made at Marys- 
ville, whence Knoxville was within reach. Later all of this railroad, 
and that from Cleveland to Dalton, Ga., was torn up. 



III. 

WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. 



Tlirougli Routes From Chlcag^o and- St. Louis to 
Florida and New Orleans. 

1. By the Evansville Route (Chicago & Eastern Illinois and 
Louisville & Nashville Railroads), through trains, Chicago to New- 
Orleans, and sleepers, Chicago to Nashville and Chicago to Jackson- 
ville. ^■ 

2. By the Illinois Central Railroad, through trains, with sleepers, 
to New Orleans, and through sleepers from St. Louis to Memphis, 
and from Kansas City to New Orleans, via Memphis. 

3. By the Louisville & Nashville Railroad and Louisville, Chatta- 
nooga & St. Louis Railroad, through sleepers, St. Louis to Atlanta, 
St. Louis to Jacksonville, and Nashville to Jacksonville. 

A Sketch of the Civil War in the TVest. 

In order that the traveler — who can hardly escape battlefields and 
mementos of the great Civil "War between 1861 and 1865 \^herever 
he may journey in the South — may have a general comprehension of 
the operations in the West, and their connection with later events 
near the seacoast, and so associate, in their true relations, the more 
particular accounts of the great battles about Corinth, Chattanooga, 
Atlanta, etc., elsewhere described, a brief sketch of the war west of 
the AUeghanies ought here to be given. 

1862. — The very first aggressive movements by Union authorities 
against attempted secession were made in Missouri; but those, and 
subsequent operations on that side of the Mississippi, bore little rela- 
tion to the conduct of the war in Tennessee and southward. Ken- 
tucky was saved from formal secession by the activity of its Union 
citizens. It declared itself neutral — an impossible position, which 
neither side respected long, but which had the immediate effect of 

(86) 



WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. 87 

preventing the Secessionists from occupying its territory. Tennes- 
see, however, though the majority of its voters were opposed, was 
carried into secession by its governor and his cabinet, and the 
Southern authorities immediately formed their advanced line of 
defense along its northern boundary. By the opening of 1862, Union 
troops, under Gen. Geo. H. Thomas, were dispersing outposts, and 
gained one decided success at Mill Springs, on Cumberland River. 
Meanwhile, Gen. H. W. Halleck, the Union commander, had com- 
mitted the river-district to Brig. -Gen. U. S. Grant, who began 
operations by capturing Fort Henry, on the Tennessee River, and, 
later. Fort Donelson (February 13, 1862), twelve miles distant, on the 
Cumberland, whereupon the whole Confederate line retired. 

By this time large and well-organized Union armies were arrayed 
in the West. One, moving south, gradually cleared Missouri of Con- 
federate soldiers. Another, assisted by gunboats, drove them from 
Island No. 10 (April 6, 1862), and seized the Mississippi as far as Mem- 
phis. In concert with this movement, and while the "Army of the 
Ohio," under Buell and Thomas, held Nashville, Grant led a large 
army up the Tennessee Valley to the southern boundary of West Ten- 
nessee. An equally large Southern force was entrenched at Corinth, 
Miss. , and the two mighty opponents met (April 6th) at Shiloh and 
Corinth (p. 87), to the ultimate discomfiture of the latter. During 
this spring, Farragut had captured New Orleans and the lower Mis- 
sissippi River, and tried to take Vicksburg from below, but failed. 
Otherwise, command of the whole river was maintained by the Fed- 
eral gunboats, which occasionally ran the Vicksburg and Port Hud- 
son batteries, and the Confederates destroyed their own flotilla, 
penned up in the Yazoo t June 26th). There were also minor operations 
in Arkansas and Missouri; late in August a Union expedition freed 
the Yazoo of Confederate defenses; many of the Atlantic and Gulf 
seaports had been taken possession of by National troops during the 
year, and more or less fighting had occurred along the seacoast. 

In Southwestern Tennessee, the summer was spent in cavalry oper- 
ations along the line of the Memphis & Charleston Railroad (Route 20), 
including severe fighting at Bolivar, Tenn., in raiding and resistances 
throughout Northwestern Tennessee, and in preparations on both 
sides for a fall campaign. Westerly, there was fighting in West Vir- 
ginia, and notably in Kentucky, where, in July, Morgan's guerrillas 
raided through the western-central part of the State. 



88 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

Preceded by a widespread and dashing cavalry-advance, under 
Forrest and Kirby Smith, Braxton Bragg started north to Kentucky 
and Ohio, through East Tennessee, early in September, simultaneously 
with Lee's invasion of Maryland. Both expected to arouse large 
sympathy and assistance among the citizens of these border States, 
who, they thought, would flock to their standards; but they had totally 
miscalculated the sentiment of the common people, comparatively 
few of whom welcomed or aided them. Bragg penetrated unresisted 
into the blue-grass region, destroyed millions of dollars' worth of 
railroads and other property, and frightened the Legislature into 
adjourning from Frankfort to Louisville. Then he set up a new 
(Secession) State government, which endured only as long as he 
remained to support it, and devoted his time to collecting from all 
sides vast quantities of horses, cattle, provisions, and portable 
property. Buell was slow to oppose him with a Union army, but 
finally flanked and defeated him (October 8th), at Perryville (p. 93), 
and turned him back. 

While this went on, two large Confederate forces occupied North- 
ern Mississippi, under Price and Van Dom, and made two attempts to 
move north to join and support Bragg, both of which were defeated, 
at luka, Miss., and Corinth (p. 98), scattering their armies. This 
was early in October. Buell was then slowly pursuing Bragg (who 
was endeavoring to take all his cattle and plunder south with him), 
but was so dilatory about it that he was superseded by Rosecrans 
(September 29th), whose command was thenceforth known as the 
"Army of the Cumberland"; he pushed Bragg more vigorously, 
drove him away from Nashville, and cleared the State of partisan 
cavalry. This was at the end of November." Lee had already been 
repulsed from Maryland, and now Bragg had been forced back, with 
perhaps more loss than gain from his expedition. This so astonished 
and troubled the Southern people that the Confederate government 
ordered Bragg to advance again, which he did in December, taking a 
strong position at Murfreesboro, Tenn. , where he was again dislodged 
by the dreadful battle of Stone River (p. 94). Meanwhile, Grant 
had been given a sort of roving commission to fight his way south- 
ward, and concerted with Sherman and Admiral Porter a plan for 
descending the Mississippi and assaulting Vicksburg. Grant's inland 
part of the plan was upset, in December, by the Confederates Van 
Dorn and Forrest, who captured a garrison and burned supplies at 



WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. 89 

Holly Springs, Miss., and he retired to Memphis. Sherman and 
Porter sailed down the river, however, seized the Yazoo, and attacked 
the Vicksburg batteries, but could do little without Grant's coopera- 
tion, and went back to Memphis, leaving the Confederates to greatly 
strengthen and reinforce Vicksburg and Port Hudson, loo miles 
below it, where Banks had a Union army in front of the garrison. 

1863. — The winter was an active one along the coast, where the 
national blockade was strengthened and a few good points gained. 
During January and February, Forrest's, Wheeler's, and other tire- 
less cavalry were raiding in Western and Middle Tennessee and 
Southern Kentucky, and attempts by the Confederates to recapture 
Fort Donelson failed. In January, an expedition ascended the 
Arkansas and did great damage to Confederate interests in that 
quarter, clearing the way for the contemplated movement on Vicks- 
burg, Miss., which began in February, and lasted until that city was 
environed, besieged, and surrendered four months later. Grierson's 
(Union) cavalry raid in April, tearing up railroads, burning bridges, 
factories, etc., through Northern Mississippi, was an incident of this 
time; and the destruction of Jackson, Miss., was another. 

While Grant's army was approaching Vicksburg, Rosecrans was 
watching Bragg, who was ensconced in the Cumberland Mountains, 
northwest of Chattanooga, lest he should go against Grant. He was 
also busy in resisting cavalry raids, and making expeditions of his 
own, one of which, in March, had a severe fight at Franklin, Tenn., 
while another (Streight's raid) swept south to Gadsden and Rome, 
in Georgia. Rosecrans finally pushed Bragg out of the Cumberland 
Mountains and back to Chattanooga, and menaced him there by such 
masterly strategy that he not only prevented his doing anything to 
relieve Vicksburg, but forced him out of Chattanooga. He followed, 
and was met by Bragg's sudden turning back (September 19th) to fight 
the battle of Chickamauga (p. 107). Rosecrans was partly defeated, 
returned to Chattanooga, and established himself there in a fortified 
camp, leaving Burnside to hold East Tennessee, at Knoxville, as best 
he might. Meanwhile, Grant had returned with most of his troops 
from Vicksburg, had been made supreme commander in the West, 
organized a better protection against cavalry-raiding in Tennessee 
and Kentucky, removed Rosecrans and put Thomas in his place, and 
during October and November concentrated the body of his forces at 
Chattanooga, where, on November 25th, were fought the battles of 



90 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

Lookout Mountain and Missionary Ridge (p. 109). This, with the 
defeat of Longstreet at Knoxville (p. 83), freed Tennessee of Con- 
federate armies, and military operations in the West were closed for 
the year 1863. 

1864. — The Confederacy was virtually beaten by its great reverses 
in 1863, and from a military point of view the war ought to have 
stopped; but, as political considerations and machinations had brought 
it on, so politics and sentiment kept it up to the last gasp. The 
United States Government prepared for a more unified prosecution 
of the war than ever before. Grant was given supreme command of 
all the armies, and called East to take personal charge of the move- 
ment against Lee. Sherman w^as lifted to general charge in the 
West, where, except for the bold dashes of Forrest's cavalry, the 
theater of operations was soon altogether south of Tennessee. Early 
in February, Sherman began a destructive expedition against Jackson 
and Meridian, Miss., returning to Vicksburg two months later; but a 
cavalry campaign against Forrest, made by Gen. Sooy Smith from 
Memphis, in February, was bungled and beaten, and the expedition 
sent into Arkansas under Banks (but against his judgment) failed. 
These things done, Sherman concentrated about 100,000 men at Chat- 
tanooga and set out to fight his way to Atlanta (p. 115 to 119), which 
he reached and captured in August. The Confederate army, now 
commanded by J. B. Hood (who had replaced J. E. Johnston), retired, 
fighting, into Northern Alabama, followed part of the way by Sher- 
man, who presently gave up the chase, which seemed intended to lure 
him out of Georgia, and went back to Atlanta with his whole army. 
Thence he sent reinforcements to Thomas, who had been operating 
meanwhile against Forrest's raiders in West Tennessee and protect- 
ing the railroad-communications, and left him to take care of Hood 
as best he could. Hood pushed north into Tennessee in November, 
fighting his way through Pulaski and Columbia to Franklin, Tenn., 
where a great battle took place on the last day of November. It 
resulted in a Union victory, with terrible loss on both sides; but the 
position was untenable, and the Union army retired into the fortresses 
of Nashville. Hood followed to the attack, and, two weeks later, 
came the battle of Nashville (p. 225), which resulted in the complete 
rout of the Confederates, who retreated as far as Lexington, Ala., 
where the pursuit of the disintegrated enemy was abandoned. 

Sherman, meanwhile, had left Atlanta and started on his inde- 



WESTERM RAILROAD ROUTES. 91 

pendent "March to the Sea" (p. 124), the close of the year find- 
ing him at Savannah (p. 18). The last two months had also wit- 
nessed Union successes beyond the Mississippi, at Mobile and in 
Florida, where, as a rule, the Confederates had proved the better 
fighters, in Florida. 

1865. — The fourth year of the war opened in the East with the 
tremendous struggle between Grant and Lee about Richmond and 
Petersburg, and Sheridan's campaign in the Shenandoah Valley 
(p. 71), ending in April at Appomattox. By that time Sherman had 
marched through the Carolinas, by way of Columbia (p. 54), Fayette- 
ville, and Bentonville; Wilmington and Goldsboro had fallen, and 
Johnston, was on the point of surrender at Durham (p. 43). While 
these greater operations went on, minor successes were taking 
place in the Southwest, the most important of which was Wilson's 
raid through Northern Alabama to Selma (p. 131), Montevallo, and 
Montgomery, Ala., Columbus, and Macon, Ga., and the capture of 
Mobile (p. 231) in April. This left nothing but scattered bands 
of Confederates east of the Mississippi, which melted away by 
desertion, or were arrested here and there by Union cavalry, includ- 
ing a small party escorting Jefferson Davis to a place of safety, 
and Kirby Smith's army in Northern Louisiana, which surrend- 
ered on May 26th — the last organized force of what had styled 
itself the Confederate States of America. 

Route 17.— Jellico Route. 

This is the Louisville & Nashville Railroad route oetween Louis- 
ville or Cincinnati and Knoxville, via Jellico, with sleeping-cars to 
Knoxville. 

(i) From Cincinnati the line is that of the former Kentucky Cen- 
tral Ry. Straight south through the blue-grass region, via Paris, 
Winchester, and Richmond. All of these were the scenes of severe 
battles with guerrillas, and during Bragg 's invasion of the State in 
1S62. Just below Richmond is Berea, famous for its college for the 
coeducation of white and colored students of both sexes. The wild 
mountain country soon begins, and exceedingly picturesque views 
are shown as the train makes its way by many curves and skillful 
engineering across the Cumberland Mountains. This and the 
glimpse caught of the primitive life of the rustic inhabitants, who 
are not far advanced from the style of Daniel Boone, whose favorite 



92 • GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

hunting-ground this v/as, make this a very interesting journey for 
the traveler interested in something besides speed and big cities. 

(2) From Louisville the line runs southwest via Bardstown, 
Lebanon, Stanford (Crab Orchard Springs, sulphur and chalybeate), 
and Mount Vernon to Lzvmgston, in Rockcastle County, where it 
joins the line from Cincinnati. 

This is an extremely picturesque region, and has many mineral 
springs, one of which, Rockcastle Springs, eighteen miles southwest 
of London, near the Cumberland River, and 1,800 feet above the sea, 
has long been of high repute as a pleasure and health resort. At 
Cor bin, a line leads east to Barboursville and Cumberland Gap, con- 
necting with the N. & W. Ry. for the East. The Cumberland is 
crossed at Williamsburgh, where the Cumberland bituminous coal- 
field is entered, the commercial center of which \s,Jellico, on the 
boundary of Kentucky and Tennessee. The next station is Clinton, 
Tenn., whence the C. & N. O. Rd. runs to Harriman's (p. 93) 
and Chattanooga. Crossing Clinch River at Clinton, a few miles 
more brings the train to the Union station of Knoxville (p. 83). 

Route 18.— Queen & Crescent Line to Chattanooga. 

The " Queen & Crescent Route" is a line of connected railways, 
primarily operating through, trains between Cincinnati, the " Queen 
City," and New Orleans, the " Crescent City." It also sends through 
sleeping-cars between New York and New Orleans, Cincinnati and 
Jacksonville, Fla., and Chattanooga and Shreveport, La. Its lines 
are as follows: 

(i) New York to New Orleans (sleeping-car only). Baltimore 
& Ohio Rd. to Washington, Southern Ry. (Route 15 and 15b.) to 
Chattanooga, and Q. «& C. Route (2) to New Orleans. 

(2) Main Line, Cincinnati to New Orleans. The road leads due 
south from Cincinnati, through the rich blue-grass agricultural 
and grazing region, to Lexington, the center of the Kentucky racing- 
stud farms. The country now becomes hilly and picturesque, and 
the crossing of the Kentucky River upon a very lofty bridge is a 
remarkable bit of scenery. The road keeps straight south, through a 
populous, prosperous, and beautiful region, past Danville (intersec- 
tion of the Louisville & Nashville Rd.) and Somerset, just south 
of which the Cumberland River is crossed, after which the line 
ascends its South Fork to its source in the Cumberland Mountains. 



WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. 93 

Near Danville, Ky., on this line, occurred one of the hottest battles 
of the Civil War. Bragg's and Kirby Smith's invading Confederate 
armies (p. 88) had joined, and were headed toward Cincinnati, when 
the Union commander, Buell, who had been racing with them to the 
westward, turned upon the invaders (October 1,1862) at Frankfort. 
They withdrew, skirmishing, to some miles below Harrodsburg, 
where, at a hamlet called Perrjrville, close to Danville, the two armies 
became engaged on the 9th. The Confederates were everywhere 
successful at first, crushing line after line of raw troops until they 
came to a division commanded by Sheridan, who withstood the 
charge and enabled the Union army to recover. Then, as so often 
happened, the superior staying-power of the Northern soldiers 
asserted itself, and the Southern men, exhausted by their impetuous 
charges, were turned back and defeated, retreating steadily after- 
ward until driven out of the State, but carrying a large amount of 
provisions and property with them. About 5,000 men were lost on 
each side in this battle, which destroyed all hope on the part of the 
South of an invasion of the Northwest. 

At Harriman's, Tenn., the line of the " Jellico Route " (No. 17), and 
of roads to Cumberland Gap and Kingston, come in; and a flour- 
ishing manufacturing and trading town is growing up under arrange- 
ments designed to make it a model community. A sleeping-car 
from Ci7icin7iati to Asheville, via Knoxville, diverges here. The 
road here bends southwest, and follows the western side of the valley 
of the Tennessee River, along the base of Waldron's Ridge, past a 
group of local summering-places about Spring City, and through the 
enterprising town of Dayton (pop., 3,500; small hotels, $1 to $2) 
to the Central Station in Chattanooga, 338 miles from Cincinnati. 

A through sleeping-car is run over this line from Cincinnati to 
Jacksonville, Fla. (i), via Chattanooga Southern Ry., and (2) via 
Southern Ry. to Atlanta and Everett, and Florida Short Line (p. 53) 
to Jacksonville. Through trains, carrying sleepers from New York, 
via S. Ry. (Routes 15 and 15b), from Chattanooga, run from Cincin- 
nati to New Orleans, via Birmingham and Meridian ; also a sleeper 
from Chattanooga to Shreveport, La. (For details see Route 
27, p. 220.) 

Route 19.— liOokout Mountain Route. 

This is a name for the Nashville, Chattanooga & St. Louis Rail- 
way, which approaches Chattanooga from the northwest. Its con- 
nections concentrate traffic from St. Louis and Cairo, and from 
Evansville and Louisville at Nashville (p. 225). It runs through cars, 
via Chattanooga from St. Louis (L. & N. Rd.^ to Atlanta; Nashville 



04 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

to Jacksonville (Ga. Sou. Ry. and Plant System); and Nashville to 
Knoxville. 

This line from Nashville south existed before the war, and was 
the principal dependence of the Union armies, by whom it was oper- 
ated almost exclusively for military purposes from 1862 to 1865. Its 
first important station, thirty-two miles south of Nashville, is Mur- 
freesboro, the scene of one of the greatest conflicts of the Civil War. 

Battle of Miirfreesboro or Stone River. — After the Confederate 
invasion of Kentucky (p. 93) had failed, Bragg was ordered to 
make a new advance from his stronghold in the Cumberland Moun- 
tains toward Nashville, and on December 30, 1862, was confronted by 
the Federal army under Rosecrans on the opposite side of Stone 
River at Murfreesboro, where Jefferson Davis was visiting him. 
Bragg was strongly entrenched, but took advantage of a fog on the 
early morning (December 30th) to sally out and make an unexpected 
attack in great force. The surprised Federal right wing w^as 
crushed, but the center, under Thomas, resisted and stood firm until 
Rosecrans could form a new line, and dispatch cavalry to annoy the 
enemy's flank. " The day ended with Rosecrans immovable in his 
position, but he had been driven from half the ground that he held 
in the morning, and had lost twenty-eight guns and many men, while 
the enemy's cavalry was upon his communications. Finding that he 
had ammunition enough for another battle, he determined to remain 
where he was and sustain another assault. This came on the second 
day of the new year [1863] when there was some desultory fighting, 
and Rosecrans advanced a division across the stream to strike at 
Bragg's communications. Breckenridge's command was sent to 
attack this division, and drove it back to the river, when Brecken- 
ridge suddenly found himself subjected to a terrible artillery fire, 
and lost 2,000 men in twenty minutes. Following this, a charge by 
National infantry drove him back with a loss of four guns and many 
prisoners." This ended a battle which had cost each army some 12,000 
men. A monument now marks the spot where Hazen's small brigade 
of Union troops checked the Southern onset, and turned the tide of 
battle. Bragg immediately retired to new defenses on Duck River, 
twenty -five miles southward, and remained there for several months, 
while Rosecrans went into winter quarters along Stone River. 

About thirty miles south of Murfreesboro the hills begin, and 
mineral springs and mountain resorts become numerous. The first 
populous center is Tullahoma, sixty-nine miles from Nashville (pop., 
2,500; alt., 1,070 ft.; Hurricane Hall, $2), from which several springs 
resorts are accessible. Hurricane Springs, five miles west by hack, 
whose " amber-green and golden waters" were formerly celebrated, 
has lately been swept by fire. Cascade or Pylant Springs, eight 
miles by stage, has an alkaline, sulphurous water in high repute for 



WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. 95 

its curative properties. Along the branch railroad extending north- 
east (69 m.), to the coal fields of White County, at Bon Air, are 
several other places of local resort, among them McMinnville, county 
seat of Warren, and Nicholson Springs, near by, which yield chalybe- 
ate, freestone, and red sulphur waters. Just below Tullahoma, on 
the main line, is Estill Springs, an old favorite, near which is anew 
neighbor, East Brook Springs, which is supplied with Hurricane waters 
and has a new hotel. Near here branch lines diverge west to Colum- 
bia, Tenn. (p. 226), and Huntsville, Ala. (p. 99). At Cowan a short 
line extends north into the mountains as far as Tracy City. Near 
the junction is Sewanee (alt., 1,867 ft.), the site of the Episcopal 
University of the South, where there is a hotel and pleasant village. 
Six miles brings you to Monteagle, on the top of the Cumberland 
Plateau (alt., 1,931 ft.), the seat of Fairmount College, and of a sum- 
mer school on the Chautauqua plan, called " Monteagle Assembly." 
The village is in the midst of highly attractive scenery, has chalybe- 
ate and freestone springs, and pure water pumped up from a great 
spring, and piped to the village and Assembly grounds, and filling a 
great stone swimming-pool. The Assembly (founded 1883) provides 
for lectures, classes, Bible study, entertainments, and an instructive 
and pleasant season lasting during the whole summer. Abundant 
accommodations, $20 to $45 a month. Tracy City, the terminus of 
this branch, and Beersheba Springs, eighteen miles beyond, are also 
mountain health resorts. 

The lower part of this railway line was never free from soldiers 
and fighting from end to end of the Civil War. It was always the 
dependence of one army or the other, and every mile of it, almost, was 
repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt by the soldiers, engineers, and work- 
men who alternately possessed it. Rosecrans left Bragg undisturbed 
along Duck River (see above and also page 94) until midsummer 
(1863). The Confederate line then stretched in heavily fortified 
camps from Shelby ville, through the rugged hills about Wartrace 
Station, and down the railroad to a central fortress at Tullahoma. 
On June 23d Rosecrans began strategic maneuvers, while Burnside 
approached Bragg's rear from East Tennessee. Menaced and out- 
flanked he abandoned this strong position without serious fighting, and 
following the railroad and destroying the bridge at Bridgeport, 
retreated to Chattanooga, whither he was slowly followed by Rose- 
crans' army through the mountain passes. 



96 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TE S. 

Having reached tlie southern slope of the Cumberland Mountains 
at Stevenso7t, Ala. (pop., 900; Stevenson, $2), where it is joined by 
the Memphis & Charleston Railroad, the road turns sharply north- 
east along the Tennessee River, crosses at Bridgeport, and enters 
Chattanooga along the western base of Lookout Mountain. 

Route 20.— Memphis to Chattanooga. 

Memphis (pop., 65,000; Peabody, $3.50; Gayoso, $3; Clarendon, 
$2.50) is, next to Nashville, the most populous city in Tennessee, 
the only river port of consequence, and the most important one 
between St. Louis and New Orleans. Here converge, on the 
Arkansas side of the Mississippi River, railroads from St. Louis and 
Cairo, Kansas City and the West, and Little Rock and the Southwest, 
crossing upon the bridge built in 1892; and, on the eastern side, into 
the city itself, come no less than seven railways, making ten in all. 
The city is thus connected directly with every trade center in the 
West and South, and is upon the great river highway besides. It 
therefore enjoys strong advantages for trade, and is prospering and 
growing steadily by this means, as well as somewhat by the devel- 
opment of manufactures. Of cotton alone about 800,000 bales are 
handled annually, largely upon the levee, which presents one of the 
liveliest and most entertaining commercial pictures in the United 
States. Here are the huge compresses and cotton-seed-oil mills, an 
inspection of which is recommended to the visitor. Memphis is a 
handsome city, and contains creditable public buildings, principally 
grouped about Court Square, which contains a fine monumental 
bust of Andrew Jackson; the large company of tame squirrels that 
animate this park form a widely noted feature of the city. Electric 
cars interchange traffic all over the city, and extend their lines far 
into the suburbs, to Raleigh (8 m.), a pleasure resort with a large 
hotel; to the National Cemetery (5 m.), where 13,918 Union soldiers 
are buried, including 8,818 unknown, and to the fine race course. 
In addition to the many regular Mississippi and Ohio River packet 
lines, steamers ply to interior points up the rivers and bayous of 
Arkansas and Northern Mississippi, affording interesting trips, espe- 
cially to sportsmen. Memphis is connected with Chattanooga by the 
Memphis & Charleston Railroad. 

Leaving Memphis, the M. & C. train moves directly east, through 
Grand Junction at the intersection of the Illinois Central Railroad. 



WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. 97 

(Route 30), and through Middleton, junction of the Gulf & Chicago 
Rd., and then swerves southward into Mississippi at Corinth, a 
village at the crossing of the Mobile & Ohio Rd. (Route 29), which 
was a point of great strategic importance in the early part of the 
Civil War, on account of its railway and river connections, and was 
twice fiercely contested for. 

Grant's successful army, early in 1862, was concentrating for an 
attack upon the Confederates, who had retired within strong fortifica- 
tions at this little village of Corinth, where a National Cemetery, with 
5,719 interments and a cannon monument, remains as a sad memento 
of the sequel. Grant's advance had reached the northern bank of the 
Tennessee at and near Pittsburg Landing, about twenty miles north- 
east of Corinth, but the roads were extremely soft, and large portions 
of the army were delayed. Taking advantage of this, the Confed- 
erate commander, Albert Sydney Johnston, moved out in force and 
attacked the Union army with great determination. The first assault 
was at Shiloh Church, and, as frequently happened in that part of 
the war, victory the first day was with the Southern troops, who 
forced the Union lines back to the Tennessee River, where the onset 
was checked, after a day's battle unexampled in the West at that 
time for the numbers engaged, the losses, and the fury of the fighting. 
Sherman and McPherson here had their first opportunity to show the 
North their qualities as commanders, and Grant established firmly 
the reputation he had won at Fort Donelson. The Southern general, 
Johnston, was killed, and Beauregard succeeded to the Confederate 
command. The next morning Grant, reinforced and encouraged, 
steadily pressed Beauregard back with great losses, recovered all the 
lost ground, and compelled his enemy to retreat to their entrench- 
ments around Corinth. The total losses (killed, wounded, and 
prisoners) on both sides exceeded 20,000 men. 

The battle-ground is called Shiloh by the Confederates and Pitts- 
burg Landing by the Federals. The United States Government has 
recently established a National Park at this place, and a railroad, 
eighteen miles long, is now under construction from Corinth, north- 
east, to the battle-ground and park. 

After the battle of Shiloh, General Halleck took command and 
besieged Corinth. The armies were now increased until Halleck 
had about 120,000 men and Beauregard about 50,000. In this and 
all other statements of strength of armies in the Civil War, it must be 
remembered that the Confederate method of counting excluded all 
commissioned officers, musicians, hospital attendants, etc. , counting 
only muskets; while the Union method included every man expected 
to go into action. Halleck gradually closed in on the works, until 
May 29th, when Beauregard evacuated the place and retreated along 
the M. & C. Rd. toward Chattanooga. This campaign is regarded 
7 



98 G UIDE TO SO UTHEA S TERN S TA TES. 

by some historians as the disastrous turning point of the war for the 
Confederates; and, in the death of Albert Sydney Johnston, the South 
lost, perhaps, its ablest commander. 

This, however, was by no means the end of Corinth's experience 
of war, nor even the worst of it. During the succeeding summer 
(1862), the Confederates made a studied attempt to regain Tennessee 
and Kentucky. Bragg (Conf.) moved north into Kentucky, opposed 
by Buell, (Un.) while Sterling Price (Conf.) moved north from Missis- 
sippi to support him in West Tennessee. He was met and checked 
by Rosecrans at Iuka(9 miles east), September 19th, and withdrew to 
the southeast. Rosecrans was then posted at Corinth, which he 
fortified as well as he could by several redoubts, the remains of 
two of which. Fort Williams and Battery Robinet, are still visible, 
northwest of the railway station. Price and Van Dorn (Conf.) then 
united their forces into an army of about 22,000, and moved upon 
Corinth, hoping to overcome it and open a way to the Ohio River. 
After preliminary fighting, the main attack was delivered from the 
northwest, on October 3 (1862), and resulted in driving all Rosecrans' 
forces (about 16,000) inside his inmost fortifications, close around 
the village. Confident of victory, the Confederates renewed the 
attack next morning, assaulting the lines and the batteries with the 
most splendid courage ; but Rosecrans handled his troops so well, 
and they resisted, often in hand-to-hand encounters, so resolutely, 
that before night the enemy was utterly routed. He fled south and 
was followed for many miles, and Rosecrans declared that had he 
not been recalled, in spite of his protest, that whole Confederate 
army might have been dissipated and Vicksburg captured with little 
difficulty; but Grant tells us that, had he done so, instead of taking 
Vicksburg he would have been overtaken and captured or destroyed 
by superior forces concentrated upon him. 

The names of many stations along this part of the line will recall 
incidents of the war, and these rolling woods, fertile cotton-planta- 
tions and corn-fields, will yield ' ' relics " of the strife for years to come, 
luka is also known by its iron and sulphur waters, which are not only 
used at the pretty springs here, but widely distributed. Alabama is 
now entered, with the crossing of Bear River, and the Tuscumbia 
Valley is followed through Courtland, where, at the bridge over Nance 
Creek, a fight occurred on July 25, 1862; and through Cherokee (scene 
of two battles) to Tusciunbia. 

This is a pretty village (pop., 3,000 ; Parshall, $2), noted for an 
immense spring yielding 17,000 cubic feet of pure water each minute. 
It was the scene of a brisk fight November 13, 1862, and on April i, 
1863, when Gen. G. M. Dodge swept the railroad to this point and cap- 
tured here a large quantity of rolling stock ; it was here (1863) that 
Streight's dare-devil raiders started on their tour of devastation to 
Rome, Ga. ; and it lay in the path of Hood's advance (who. encamped 



IV£S TERN RA ILROAD RO UTn S. 99 

here three weeks in November), and of his subsequent retreat and 
Thomas' pursuit during the winter of 1864 and 1S65. (See Route 28,) 

The Birmingham, Sheffield & Tennessee River Railroad comes 
in two miles east of Tuscumbia from Birmingham, by way of Jasper 
and Russell ville, and passes on to Sheffield i^o^^. , 2,000; New Sheffield, 
$2), a wide-awake town of recent growth, on the bank of the river, 
having five iron furnaces and ten manufactories. A mile farther up 
the river, and three miles north of Tuscumbia, with which it and 
Sheffield are connected by rail, is South Florence, at the southern 
end of the bridge across the Tennessee into Florence (pop., 6,000; 
Commercial, $2), the county seat of the old settled and rich county, 
Lauderdale, and a town that has sprung into importance as a manu- 
facturing and cotton-spinning place within the last decade. It has 
great enterprise, many industrial and commercial advantages, a 
pleasant, healthful situation, two or three collegiate institutions, and 
bids fair to become one of the most prosperous cities in this richly 
endowed region. A steamer of the St. Louis & Tennessee Packet 
Company ascends the river to this point from its mouth, leaving 
Paducah, Ky., every Saturday, and returning from Florence once a 
week, as circumstances permit. Bailey Springs is a well-known 
resort seven miles north. Florence was Hood's point of departure 
for his " invasion of Tennessee," in November, 1864. (See Route 28.) 

From Tuscumbia the Memphis & Charleston Railway strikes 
straight east (43 m.) to Decatur {yo-p., 7,500 ; Hotel Bismarck, Ameri- 
can, each $2), at the intersection of the L. & N. Rd. Between this 
point and Florence the Tennessee is interrupted by islands and 
shallows, the worst of which were the Muscleshell Shoals, a short 
distance above Florence. These stopped navigation, except at very 
high water; but a canal has now been completed around them, 
permitting large steamers to ascend even to Chattanooga at any 
stage of water. A steamer plies tri-weekly between Decatur and 
Guntersville (Wyeth City, p. 222), connecting there with steamers for 
Chattanooga and way landings. The descent of the river by boat 
is a pleasant experience. Huntsville (pop. , 12,000; Huntsville, $3; 
McGee's, $2) is a market and manufacturing town of growing 
importance. Three of the largest cotton mills in the South are 
located here ; and the situation of the city, at the southern extremity 
of the Cumberland Mountains, in a beautiful and healthful situation, 
which has made it a social and educational center. Monte Sano, the 
lofty hill, three miles eastward, has been a summer resort, The line 



100 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

now winds through green defiles, which thirty years ago were crack- 
ling daily with the sound of raiders' rifles, and bends northward up 
the beautiful Tennessee Valley to Stevenson, where it- enters upon 
the line of the N. C. & St. L. Rd. Route 19 joins it, crosses the Ten- 
nessee River at Bridgeport, and reaches Chattanooga through Look- 
out Valley, A through sleeping-car runs between New York and 
Memphis over this line and Route 1 5 . 

Chattanooga, Chickamauga, and Lookout Mountain. 
Chattanooga (pop., with suburbs, 45,000; Lookout Inn, I3.50; 
Read, $3.50; Stanton, $3) occupies a tract of low, level ground (an 
ancient flood-plain) along the eastern bank of the Tennessee River, 
just above its great Moccasin Bend. The river comes nearly straight 
southeast down to this point, where it breaks through the Cumber- 
land Mountains. North of the city, across the river, is Walden's 
Ridge, with the lower Stringer's Ridge in front; south of the city 
and river-bend. Lookout Mountain, apparently (but not really) contin- 
uous, save for the river-break, with Walden's Ridge; eastward is a 
long and much lower ridge, parallel with the Walden and Lookout 
ranges, called Missionary Ridge; on the farther side of it flows the 
Chickamauga; between it and Lookout Mountain, south of the city, 
IS the valley of Chattanooga Creek, and west of Lookout Mountain, 
between it and the Sand or Raccoon Mountains, which continue 
Walden's Ridge southward into Alabama, is Lookout Valley. Having 
fixed these points of topography in mind, and remembering that all 
the ridges and valleys extend in a northeast-southwest direction, the 
visitor will have no difficulty in comprehending the landscape and 
the geographical relations of the stirring events it has witnessed. The 
altitude of the city is about 700 feet, the climate equable and rather dry 
and bracing, exceedingly hot in summer, with infrequent snowfalls in 
winter, and killing frosts rare before October or after March. The 
valley is healthful, and a change of climate, when needed, is obtain- 
able in the adjacent mountains at little cost of time or money. The 
flatness of the ground prevents any great picturesqueness in the 
town itself, which has some pleasant residence streets, fine churches, 
and good schoolhouses, including Grant University, with 400 
students; but little otherwise to reward the sightseer, unless he is 
interested in war history. For him, the National Park Commission 
(p. Ill) has done much. "The lines of the old fortifications have 
been carefully traced, and their various salients and angles defined. 



WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. 101 

. . . The headquarters of the corps, division, and brigade com- 
manders of both armies have been sought out, and the military 
prison, the hospital where the wounded from the battle of Chicka- 
mauga were cared for, and the officers' hospital used during the 
siege, have also been designated by descriptive tablets." Of these 
the most important are the following: 

Fort Cafneroft, on Cameron Hill, a lofty knoll on the river-side of 
the town, whence a comprehensive view is obtained; this fort was a 
battery of loo-pounder Parrott guns, 200 yards south of the point. 
Also on this hill were Fort Mihalotzy, now 221 Prospect Street; 
Battery Cooledge, west of the latter; Redoubt Carpenter a?id 
Lookout Battery, on the site of the old water-works, and Redoubt 
Crutchfield {or Fort S/iendan) on the south extension of the hill, 137 
E. Terrace Street. Fort Sherman included the interior line of forti- 
fications, from Redoubt Putnam, E. 5th and Walnut streets, and 
around Brabson Hill to Battery Bushnell, at the northwest corner 
Payne and Lindsay streets. Brabson Hill was a signal station, pro- 
tected by Ltinette O'Meara, East 5th and Lindsay streets. Fort 
Creig/iton (or Wood), East 5th Street, facing East End Avenue. Fort 
Lytle (the "Star Fort"), College Street, south end of College Hill. 
Fort Negley (or Phelps), south of Montgomery Avenue, west of 
Rossville Road. Fort Erivi7i, northwest corner Gilmer and C streets. 
Battery Me A loon, knoll near the mouth of Citico Creek. Redoubt 
Jones, on an elevation called Stone Fort, the present site of the new 
marble post office, loth and Market streets. Of the Headquarters 
marked, these may be mentioned: Grant, 316 Walnut Street and no 
ist Street; Sherman, no ist Street; Sheridan, southwest corner E. 
Terrace and Gillespie; Army of the Cumberland (Rosecrans, Thomas, 
and others), 316 Walnut Street; Bragg (Conf. Army), Dr. B. Loveman's 
residence, E. 5th Street, east of Georgia Avenue. The Presbyterian 
Church, then standing on Market Street, was occupied by Gen. 
J. B. Steadman and the Adjutant-General's staff; the military prison 
was at police headquarters, Market and 4th streets; the schoolhouse 
on Gillespie Street was a hospital, and the officers' hospital was at 
Poplar and West 5th streets. 

The indiistrial aspect at Chattanooga is the foremost feature of 
the modern town, and will reward study on the part of investors as 
well as sightseers. Market Street is the principal business thorough- 
fare, on which are the Central and Union railway stations, and elec- 
tric tramways by which cars are sent from between 5 th and 9th 
streets to all parts of town and far into the suburbs. The furnaces, 
mills, and factories are upon the river front and in the southern 
suburbs. 

Chattanooga, at the eastern base of the Cumberland Mountains, 
lies on the border of the great Alleghanian field of bituminous and 



10^ GUIDE to SOUTHEASTERN STATED. 

coking coals. These mountains also yield iron, copper, zinc, lead, 
manganese, aluminum, and various other minerals and useful earths; 
a variety of fine building stones ; clays for pottery, drain-tiles, fire- 
brick and house brick, and a great amount of timber and forest 
products. Statistics of the Board of Trade (1894) show 1,125,000 tons 
of coal mined annually, 375,000 tons of coke made, and 172,250 tons 
of pig iron cast within the Chattanooga district. The sawmills 
receive annually over 25,000,000 feet of rafted logs (chiefly yellow 
poplar), which are here converted into lumber. There is, besides, a 
large export of raw materials. The capital employed in actual 
industries within the town, according to the U. S. Census Report of 
1890, was $6,675,000, and there are stated to be now in Chattanooga 
114 industrial corporations, with a combined capital exceeding 
$30,000,000. The farm products, reported by the Board of Trade, 
within an area of seventy-five miles around the city, are roundly as ' 
follows: Corn, 30,000,000 bushels, wheat, 3,250,000 bushels; oats, 
4,000,000 bushels; cotton, 150,000 bales; tobacco, 450,000 pounds ; 
small fruits, berries, and vegetables to the value of $175,000; much 
live stock is raised for export. Among the principal manufactories 
are twenty-three iron furnaces, rolling mills, and steel works, 
eight cotton mills, and a great number of diversified factories. 

This development has taken place almost entirely since the late 
war, which revealed the local advantages to the Northern men who 
have since furnished the greater part of the capital invested in its 
mines, manufactures, and railroads, and is due principally to the 
natural excellence of the situation on the river, at a gap in the 
mountains, and at the junction of radiating valleys which descend to 
it from several directions. It is the natural gateway between the 
North and South, west of the Alleghany Mountains. In this matter 
of transportation the Tennessee River has now become of the 
greatest significance. For more than 500 miles above Chattanooga 
this river and its tributaries are navigable for rafts and light-draught 
boats, while the completion of the government canal around the 
Muscleshell Shoals (p. 99) opens the river to navigation from this 
city to the Mississippi. This fact has tended to greatly reduce and 
keep down railway freight charges, and to cheapen correspondingly 
the cost of manufactures and the shipments of raw materials and 
manufactured products back and forth. There is every reason to 
suppose that the growth and prosperity of the place will steadily 
continue. 

Exeter szo7ts of great interest may be made in various directions, 
by railroad or steamboat, to springs, mountain resorts, battlefields, 
etc., described elsewhere. A trip by steamboat on the Tennessee 
would be a novel experience to many. The steamers of the Tennes- 
see River Transportation Company leave Chattanooga on Mondays 
and Fridays, at 10.00 a. m., for Shellmound and South Pittsburg, 
Tenn., Bridgeport, Guntersville, Decatur, Ala., and way-landings; 



WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. 103 

returning, will leave Guntersville every Tuesday and Saturday, at 
6.00 a. m. They leave for Kingston and way -landings and Hiawassee 
River points, on Wednesdays. lo.oo a. m., and Saturdays, 6.00 p. m. 
Good fishing and shooting are to be had in their season within a rea- 
sonable distance. A pretty picnic trip is down the river to Shell Mound 
and the big Nickajack Cave, at the base of Signal Mountain, the 
southernmost height of Walden's Ridge, long occupied as a signal 
station by the Union troops. The electric cars over the bridge 
(2,700 feet long) to the northern suburb, Hill City, take one to the 
summit of Stringer's Ridge, Forts Wilder and Hill, and a very fine 
view. It was along this road, at the base of Stringer's Ridge, 
through the front of Hill City, that Sherman marched his troops from 
Brown's Ferry, at the western side or foot of Mocassin Bend, up to 
the mouth of Chickamauga Creek, where he crossed on his pontoon 
bridge, to attack Bragg's right wing, on the northern extremity of 
Missionary Ridge. The first and foremost excursion, however, 
should be to 

Lookout Mountain. — This is the easternmost lofty ridge of the 
Cumberland Mountains, begins here in a bold bluff 1,343 feet high 
(2,126 feet above the sea*), and extends south westward, with occa- 
sional breaks, some sixty miles. 

It consists of stratified rocks (carboniferous), limestones near the 
base, fossiliferous and penetrated by many seams and caverns, some 
of great depth, above which are coarse sandstones capped with con- 
glomerates. It was originally heavily timbered, and is still, for the 
most part, covered with second-growth woods, but the surface is so 
rugged and the soil so light that little farming has ever been 
attempted, except upon the lower slopes. The usefulness of the 
mountain has therefore been, and is likely to remain, chiefly as a 
pleasant suburban residence for the citizens of Chattanooga and 
neighboring lowland cities, and as a summer pleasure and winter 
health resort, for which it is naturally well situated and has been 
admirably prepared. 

Lookout Mountain is reached by three routes: (i) The Old Car- 
riage Road.— Driving out of Chattanooga by Whiteside Street, the 
iron bridge over Chattanooga Creek is crossed, and the gradual ascent 
of the mountain soon begins with constantly widening views. The 



* These, and all other exact altitudes in this book, are those given in Henry 
Gannett's " Dictionary of Altitudes," published by the United States Geological 
Survey as Bulletin 26 (second edition, 1890). The altitude of the Union Railway 
Station in Chattanooga is given as 783 feet. 



104 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

height that overlooks Cascade Glen is worth a moment's pause. A 
short distance farther, through a pretty depression, brings the car- 
riage to the main mountain-road which steadily ascends through 
St. Elmo and up its southern and least precipitous side to the sum- 
mit, offering a constant succession of fine prospects. This ascent 
requires two or more hours. 

(2) Electric Cars to the Incline. — An electric car leaves Broad 
and Seventh streets, Chattanooga, every ten minutes for St. Elmo 
(see below) and the foot of the mountain. Here an inclined road, 
up which cars are drawn by a stationary cable, carries passengers 
half-hourly to the Point Hotel, a large family hotel immediately 
under Pulpit Rock on Lookout Point; thence a narrow-gauge railway 
winds around the crest to Sunset Park and Natural Bridge Hotel. 
These are in a picturesque region having a fine outlook to the west, 
and are annually resorted to by a large convocation of spiritualists. 
Many citizens make this place their permanent summer home. The 
road continues to Lookout Inn. Fare, round trip, 50 cents. 

This inclined road is regarded as an extraordinary feat of engi- 
neering. It is 4,500 feet long, has a lift of 1,700 feet, or nearly one in 
three at the steepest place, and is, therefore, much steeper than the 
Alount Washington incline. The car is built in the form of an 
inclined plane, with one side of glass for the sake of the view. 
Julian Ralph, who wrote an entertaining and valuable description of 
the mountain and city, in Harper's Magazine, for March, 1895, 
speaks of the descent as ' ' rolling like a ball sent back to the players in 
a bowling alley." 

(3) By Steajn Cars. — The Chattanooga & Lookout Mountain 
Railroad runs trains at intervals of about two hours, in summer, be- 
tween both the Central and Union depots and Lookout Inn. The 
road makes a long detour in Chattanooga Valley, passing Forest 
Hill Cemetery and ascends the southern slope of the mountain above 
the village of St. Elmo (said to be named from the novel by Augusta 
Evans, written here), which is the oldest and among the pleasantest 
of the city's suburbs. Rising steadily, the road curves about the 
northern end of the mountain, passing the Craven House and over 
the battlefield "above the clouds," and on the northern side, over- 
looking the city and the valleys of the Tennessee and Lookout Creek, 
turns by a switch-back and commences a new ascent, which carries 
it under the rocks upon which is perched the Point Hotel, beneath 
the Incline, and then back around the southern side of the crest, far 
above St. Elmo and its early course, until it can turn a third time 



WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. 105 

and climb up to the station at Lookout Inn. This is a very inter- 
esting spiral ascent of about fifteen miles, affording grand views 
at every stage of progress. The time is something over an hour. 
Round trip, 50 cents. At certain times, through sleeping cars are 
hauled up to Lookout Inn, for the convenience of their passengers. 

Lookout Inn stands about a quarter mile south of the bluff -point 
of the mountain and facing the east. In front are handsomely cleared 
and ornamented grounds opening an unlimited view and the morn- 
ing sun to the piazzas, but to the south and west the natural groves 
of oak and pine are standing penetrated by roads and paths. No 
building is in sight except the interesting Museum of War Relics, 
which does not obtrude itself upon one's notice. The hotel is a 
handsome, substantial structure, the first story of which is of vStone, 
365 feet in length and four stories high, surmounted by towers, whence 
a wonderful prospect, embracing the whole circle of the horizon may 
be obtained. The interior as well as the exterior is attractive. Its 
grand hall is exquisitely decorated and furnished, and the dining 
rooms and parlors opening into it are excellent examples of modern 
taste and elegance as applied to such apartments. There are accom- 
modations for 500 guests, and the rooms are spacious and airy, with 
fine outlooks for all. The water used is pumped from copious springs, 
the sanitary arrangements appear to be good, lighting is by gas and 
electricity, the fare excellent, and nothing seems to have been 
neglected in provision for the health, comfort, and amusement. 

The company owning the hotel also own all the northern part of 
the mountain, and many families have summer cottages there or per- 
manent homes. The hotel will hereafter remain open during the 
winter, believing that many persons will be glad to resort to the 
mountain for their health, especially those having weak lungs, and 
that it will be a welcome stopping-place for tourists en route back 
and forth between the North and Florida. 

Point Lookout.— Many places of interest are to be visited near 
the hotel. Immediately in front is a jutting rock overlooking Chatta- 
nooga Valley, and south of it the Confederate " signal rock," whence 
they telegraphed by flags to the soldiers on Missionary Ridge over 
the heads of the Union army. Ten minutes' walking takes one to 
Point Lookout, the brow of the bluff facing the city, where the 
valley of the Tennessee is spread beneath the eye as if it were a map, 
and the whole battlefields of Lookout Mountain and Missionary Ridge 
are in view. Here every little rock and point has its name and story. 
The reconstructed Craven's House is just below, and the place where 
Hooker's men fought their way to the base of the cliffs, and then 
scrambled up and planted their flag on the point, is just at 3-our feet. 
Remains of the battery from which Bragg shelled the city can be 



106 G UWE TO SO UTHEA S TERN S TA TES. 

traced; but the best preserved work is Fort Stanley, a large earth -fort 
in the woods just south of the inn. The landscape needs no expla- 
nation in view of what has already been said, further than a reference 
to the accompanying map ; and a moment's glance at the shape of the 
peninsula inclosed by the Tennessee will make plain why the name 
Moccasin Bend was given to this loop-like curve. Wauhatchie (p. 
220), and the whole " line of supplies" opened by Grant for the 
beleaguered army, can be plainly surveyed down the river on the 
left. 

Standing on this commanding point, where every part of the 
contested field, except that of Chickamauga, is under the eye, one 
can read to best advantage the story of 

The Chattanooga Campaign of 1863. 

The Tennessee Valley and this river-gap constitute a natural high- 
way between the Southwest and the North. The Indians so regarded 
it, and made this valley a meeting-place, where the earliest traders 
set up their frontier-posts and called it Ross' Landing. Peaceful 
relations were early established with the Indians (Creeks and Chero- 
kees). As early as 181 7, a religious mission-station was planted on 
high ground six miles east of the landing, whence the name Mis- 
sionary Ridge. A little town gradually grew up, which was made a 
military post in 1836, and in 1838 a town was laid out and the present 
name given it, and, five years later, it nearly secured the position of 
State capital, but was beaten by Nashville. When the Civil War 
opened, it was a flat, muddy, trading town of some 3,000 people, and 
at once became a center of Confederate military operations and a 
depot of supplies. Here Bragg started on his expedition into Ken- 
tucky in 1862 (p. 93), and hither he returned, to reorganize and again 
advance on his way into West Tennessee (p. 94). A second time, 
after the battle of Murfreesboro, his hosts returned, defeated, to this 
valley, and for the first time Rosecrans' Union army followed him 
and entered the town of Chattanooga, while Bragg, outflanked, led 
his army south into Georgia. Rosecrans started in pursuit, and both 
armies maneuvered for strategic positions, bringing on a sharp fight 
on the 13th, below Rossville. Rosecrans, however, was avoiding any 
battle, and trying his best to concentrate his scattered columns, one of 
which was west of Lookout Mountain. Bragg» unaccountably, inter- 
fered very little with this purpose, and not until the 15th did he decide 
to take the offensive and start northward. He then made an effort to 



Western- railroad routes. m 

reach his enemy on the i8th, but failed, and Rosecrans gained a day 
of time of the utmost importance to him. On the morning of the igth, 
the armies faced one another along the Chickamauga, twenty miles 
south of Chattanooga, Rosecrans' right at Crawfish Springs, and his 
left at the McDonald house. Rosecrans had about 55,000 men all 
told, and Bragg not less than 70,000, for besides thousands of pris- 
oners who (upon a technical excuse, which has never been adjudi- 
cated) violated the parole they had given at Vicksburg and Port 
Hudson, and hastened to join his ranks, Longstreet's whole corps 
had come from Virginia, arriving on the i8th, a fact of which Rose- 
crans was unaware. 

"By 10.00 a. m."(of October 9, 1863), says a succinct account written 
by Mr. Geo. C. Connor of Chattanooga, of this dreadful Battle of 
Chicka7)iaugay "the engagement was general; now the Confederates 
were routed", only to rally and hurl back, with sickening slaughter, the 
hosts of the Union. Until late in the afternoon the conflict raged, when 
suddenly an ominous lull fell upon the dead, the dying, and the weary. 
Not a gun was heard for over an hour. Rosecrans was deceived into 
the belief that his enemy had been sufficiently punished for one day, 
and began the execution of strategic movements; but scarcely had the 
hour closed when a furious charge by the Confederates threw the 
Federal lines into confusion, and had it not been for the twenty guns 
of Hazen, on the Rossville road, the battle would have closed with a 
most telling victory for the Confederates. The galling enfilading 
fire of this artillery compelled the Confederates to fall back as the 
sun went down beyond distant Lookout. When darkness enveloped 
the bloody scene, arrangements were made for burying the dead and 
caring for the wounded by both sides. Bragg re-formed his lines and 
placed them in direct command of Polk and Longstreet. Polk was 
ordered to strike at dawn of the 20th, but the dense fog which en- 
shrouded the field prevented his executing the order until nearly 9.00 
o'clock, a serious delay, which cost Polk his command. When he 
did begin the assault, the entire line was quickly involved. Back 
went the Confederate right, but almost instantly rallied. Charge 
after charge attested the heroism of the combatants. The onslaught 
on the Federal left ceased w^hen the irresistible charges of the Con- 
federates broke their center. Then, it is said, Rosecrans made some 
fatal mistakes. Certain is it that he telegraphed to Washington his 
army was defeated. Thomas maintained his ground, though for- 
saken by his demoralized comrades, and gallantly withstood the 
charges of the Confederates, now flushed with victory. On the knoll, 
above the Snodgrass farm, he ordered the artillery to be massed, and 
there he determined to make his last stand. Strong lines of infantry 
skirted this elevated spot, which resisted with almost unparalleled 
gallantry the assaults on their front and flanks. As the sun began 
to go down behind the tall pines on that Sabbath afternoon, the 



108 G UIDE TO SO UTHEA S TERN ST A TES. 

storm burst anew around that Snodgrass knoll. Charge after charge 
was repelled with terrible slaughter to both sides. The dead lay in 
heaps along the green slopes, and the groans of the wounded rent 
the air as darkness enveloped the enraged combatants, and Thomas 
sorrowfully began his retreat to Rossville, leaving the field in posses- 
sion of the victorious Confederates." 

Bragg had won the battle, but the prize of it, Chattanooga, had 
escaped him. This he hoped to obtain by a siege, and to that end 
took possession of Lookout Point, Missionary Ridge, the railroads 
and rivers through the gap, and every approach except one long and 
difficult wagon road over the Cumberland Mountains. His intention 
was to starve the Union army into surrendering, since he dared not 
assault their numerous and splendidly armed fortifications, and he 
might have succeeded had he not been compelled, after a few days, 
to reckon with Ulysses S. Grant instead of the discredited Rosecrans, 
who was sent to Missouri, while Thomas was assigned to the com- 
mand of his corps. "Fighting Joe" Hooker was sent with two army 
corps from Virginia to swell the western forces. Grant, Sherman, 
Sheridan, and other leaders have all written extensively of the events 
which followed, but one of the best condensed accounts of the 
successive Battles upon Lookout Mountain and Missionary 
Ridge is that by Rossiter Johnson, in "The Story of a Great Con- 
flict," which is as follows: 

Grant arrived at Chattanooga on the 23d of October [1863], and 
found affairs in a deplorable condition. It was impossible to supply 
the troops properly by the one wagon-road, and they had been on short 
rations for some time, while large numbers of the mules and horses 
were dead. Grant's first care was to open a new and better line of 
supply. Steamers could come up the river as far as Bridgeport, and 
he ordered the immediate construction of a road and bridge to reach 
that point by way of Brown's Ferry, which was done within five 
days, the " cracker line," as the soldiers called it, was opened, and 
thenceforth they had full rations and abundance of everything. The 
enemy attempted to interrupt the work on the road ; but Hooker met 
them at Wauhatchie, west of Lookout Mountain, and after a three- 
hours' action drove them off. Chattanooga was now no longer in a 
state of siege, but it was still seriously menaced by Bragg's army, 
which held a most singular position. Its flanks were on the northern 
ends of Lookout Mountain and Mission Ridge, the crests of which 
were occupied for some distance, and its center stretched across 
Chattanooga Valley. This line was twelve miles long, and most of it 
was well intrenched. Grant ordered Sherman to join him with one 
corps, and Sherman promptly obeyed, but as he did considerable 
railroad repairing on the way, he did not reach Chattanooga till the 
i5tb of November. Meanwhile, Longstreet with 20,000 troops had 



WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. 109 

been detached from Bragg's army and sent against Burnside at 
Knoxville (p. 83). After Sherman's arrival, Grant had about 80,000 
men. He placed Sherman on his left, on the north side of the Ten- 
nessee, opposite the head of Mission Ridge ; Thomas in the center, 
across Chattanooga valley ; and Hooker on his right around the base 
of Lookout Mountain. He purposed to have Sherman advance 
against Bragg's right and capture the heights of Mission Ridge, while 
Thomas and Hooker should press the center and left just enough 
to prevent any reinforcements from being sent against Sherman. 
If this were successful, Bragg's key-point being taken, his whole 
army would be obliged to retreat. Sherman laid two bridges in the 
night of November 23d, and next day crossed the river and advanced 
upon the enemy's works ; but he met with unexpected difficulties in 
the nature of the ground, and was only partially successful. Hooker, 
who had more genius for fighting than for strictly obeying orders, 
moved around the base of Lookout Mountain, and impregnable 
heights. His men climbed the steep in the rain, clearing away abatis 
as they went, disappeared in a zone of mist or cloud that hung 
around the mountain, and made their way to its very summit, where 
they routed the enemy, taking many guns and prisoners. This 
action is famous as Hooker's " battle above the clouds." That night 
battalions were seen crossing the disk of the rising moon. 

The next day, the 25th, Hooker was to pass down the eastern 
slope of the Lookout Mountain, cross Chattanooga Valley, and strike 
the left of Bragg's position as now held on the crest and western 
slope of Mission Ridge. But the destruction of a bridge by the 
retreating enemy delayed him four hours, and Grant saw that Bragg 
was weakening his center to mass troops against Sherman. So with- 
out waiting longer for Hooker, he ordered an advance of the center 
held by Thomas. Under the immediate leadership of Generals 
Sheridan and Wood, Thomas' men crossed the valley, ran right 
into the line of Confederate works at the base of Mission Ridge, 
followed the retreating enemy to a second line half-way up the 
slope, took this, and still keeping at the very heels of the Confed- 
erates, who thus shielded them from the batteries at the top, reached 
the summit and swept everything before them . Bragg's army was 
completely defeated, and its captured guns were turned upon it 
as it fled. He himself, after vainly trying to rally the fugitives by 
riding among them and shouting, " Here's your commander ! " being 
answered derisively, "Here's your mule !" was obliged to join in 
the flight. 

In these battles the National loss was nearly 6,000 men. The 
Confederate loss was about 10,000, of whom 6,000 were prisoners, and 
forty-two guns. Bragg established the remainder of his army in a 
fortified camp at Dalton, Ga., and was soon superseded in command 
by Gen. Joseph E. Johnston. Granger and Sherman were sent to 
the relief of Burnside at Knoxville, and Longstreet withdrew to 
Virginia. 

The Chattanooga campaign was perhaps the most picturesque of 
any in the war, and was full of romantic incidents, 



110 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

Minor Features of Lookout Mountain. — Good roads lead along 
the crest and slopes of the mountain to certain curious and interesting 
places, of which the most interesting are along the eastern brow, from 
three to five miles south of Lookout Inn. Good carriages can be hired 
at the inn stable, and the roads are fair. Three miles brings you to 
the head of Cascade Glen, above St. Elmo, and a fine prospect east- 
ward. Here are the few remains of the immense wooden buildings 
erected by Thomas for a hospital and soldiers' sanitarium, in 1864-5, 
at a cost of $285,000. After the war these buildings were purchased 
by Mr. Charles F. Roberts of New York, who attempted to found a 
school there, but, legal difficulties arising, the project was abandoned 
and the Roberts American College in Constantinople was endowed 
instead. Ascending the ridge and passing " the chapel," you reach 
a collection of strangely water-worn rocks called Rock Village. 
Here is Payne's Spring (excellent water), and a wide outlook may be 
obtained by a little climbing, A few rods farther brings you to a 
second collection of quaintly worn and broken rocks, with arches, 
narrow passages, and other semblances to a ruined town — a favorite 
resort for picnic parties. Here were the first camps of the Confed- 
erates, and later of Federal soldiers, four regiments of regulars 
holding this position until the end of the war. A mile beyond Rock 
City is Chickamauga Bluff, which gives a full view of the Chicka- 
mauga battlefield and park, and much more that is beautiful besides. 
Farther in this direction, but reached by different roads, are Eagle 
Cliff, High Point, Georgia Springs, Lulah Lake and Falls, etc. The 
interesting region about Sunset Rock and Natural Bridge, reached 
by the Narrow-gauge Railroad, has already been spoken of. 

Missionary Ridge and Chickamauga Park. 

The visit to Missionary Ridge is of great historical interest. The 
National Park Commission has bought Sherman's battlefield (page 
109), at the north end of the ridge, beyond the suburb Sherman 
Heights and the Southern Railway tunnel. His earthworks have been 
preserved. It has also bought and erected an observation tower 
upon De Long's Point, and built another tower on the crest of the 
ridge at the end of Montgomery Avenue, where Bragg's headquarters 
were on the days of the assault. Electric cars run to this crest of the 
ridge, where the heaviest Confederate entrenchments are shown, 
and where Sheridan's famous charge took place. Along the top of 
the whole length of the ridge runs a perfectly constructed road, the 



WESTERN RAILROAD ROUTES. .111 

Government Boulevard, leading, at its southern end, into the road 
to Chickamauga Park. 

The electric cars pass several places of interest on the way to or 
from Missionary Ridge, including the National Soldiers' Cemetery 
(13,000 burials, 4,963 unknown) and Orchard Knob, a wooded knoll, 
now reserved as a Federal park — where Grant, Thomas, and their 
staffs stood and watched the battle on the afternoon of November 23d. 

The Chickamauga a?id Chattanooga National Park, dedicated 
with impressive ceremonies on September 18 to 20, 1895, originated in a 
suggestion at the reunion of the Army of the Cumberland in Chat- 
tanooga, in 1889, when the Chickamauga Memorial Association was 
formed, with a board of directors composed of both Federal and Con- 
federate officers. The proposal was to purchase the field of Chicka- 
mauga, make it a national park, mark the positions of all the 
troops on both sides, and place suitable marks and monuments all 
over the Chattanooga battlefields. Congress made liberal appropri- 
ations, and all the States promised to cooperate. A commission was 
appointed, and the result is an admirable and enduring monument to 
the men who fought in these valleys. The first step was the purchase 
of the battlefield, an area of about ten square miles, part of which is 
still cultivated by tenants. 

" In this tract, which covers the ground over which the principal 
movements of both armies were made on September 19 and 20, 1863, 
the Park Commission has accomplished much in the way of restora- 
tion. Aside from transforming the rough country roads into smooth 
boulevards, no modern park improvements have been permitted, the 
aim of the commission being to restore, as nearly as possible, the 
natural face of the tract, so that it shall preserve the appearance of 
the actual battlefield. To this end the disused roads of 1863 have 
been reopened, the lines of breastworks have been replaced, and the 
movements of the troops by brigades have been indicated by large 
iron tablets, giving the organization of brigades and divisions, and 
a brief history of their evolutions on the field. In addition to the 
tablets, the commission has erected eight monuments to the general 
officers — four on each side — who fell in the engagement. These 
monuments are triangular pyramids of eight-inch shells, and they 
stand each on the spot where the officer in question fell. 

" On Snodgrass Hill, at a point near Hall's Ford, and on the hill 
west of Jay's Mill, iron observation towers have been built, from 
which a comprehensive view of the entire field may be had. These 
are especially helpful in the study of a field which, like that of 
Chickamauga, is comparatively level, and so thickly wooded that no 
general idea of its configuration may be obtained from any point of 
view on its surface. 



112 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

' ' Besides the historical tablets, many guideposts have been erected 
along the park roads, pointing out the exact localities of the famous 
houses in the field — Brotherton's, the Widow Glenn's, the Kelly- 
house and field, Viniard's, McDonald's, the Dyer house and field, 
and others. At the points occupied l3y the various batteries an 
equal number of guns of like caliber and construction have been 
placed, and these, in themselves, are monuments of no mean rank. 
The commission has also commemorated the part borne in the battle 
by the regular troops, infantry, and artillery, by erecting suitable 
monuments at the various points where these organizations fought. 

" Here the work of the commission on the field of Chickamauga 
pauses, and that of the States begins. Costly monuments, many of 
them works of art, mark the positions of the various organizations, 
and no expense has been spared by the committees on location in 
the effort to define the original lines of battle and the positions 
occupied by the troops. So far as one may see, this work has been 
very successful. Not only have the committees been able to locate 
the principal positions occupied during the two-days' battle by a 
given brigade or regiment, but they have, in many instances, traced 
the movements of the organization from point to point on the field, 
and by the use of small monuments, or 'markers,' they have given 
a complete history of such movements, showing the time in hours." 



IV. 

RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM 
CHATTANOOGA. 



(i) Alabama Great Southern Rd. Continuation of Queen & 
Crescent Line (Route i8) to Birmingham and New Orleans. 
(Route 27.) 

(2) Chattanooga Southern Rd. This line runs along theveastern 
base of Lookout Mountain to Gadsden, Ala., where it connects with 
lines to Anniston, Calera, and southward. 

(3) Chattanooga, Rome &^ Columbus Rd. South through Ross- 
ville and McFarlane's Gap to Chickamauga Valley, across the battle- 
field (Lytle Station), and south through La Fayette and Summerville 
to Rome, Ga. (p. 126), after which it is of local importance only. 

(4) Southern Raihuay, (Route 22, p. 125.) 

(5) Westerji &^ Atlantic Rd. This is the old war-time railroad 
to Atlanta, more recently known as " th-e Kennesaw Route," and next 
to be described. 

Koute 21. Cliattanoog-a to Savannah. 

This is the through route over the Western & Atlantic Railroad to 
Atlanta, and the Central Rd. of Georgia, Atlanta to Savannah; it is, 
therefore, a continuation of the through sleeping-car Route 19, 

The trains of this road leave Chattanooga from the old W. & A, , 
or " Union," station on 9th Street, move east to the National 
Cemetery, and then turn north through Sherma7i Heights and 
around the northern end of Missionary Ridge (p. 109). It then 
ascends the valley of the East Chickamauga to Ringgold, in the 
gap of Taylor's Ridge. Here Hooker's troops were roughly handled 
and turned back in an attack on Bragg's flank, in November, 1863. 

(113) 

10 



114 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

A short distance east are Catoosa Springs, a well-known watering 
place, and Cherokee Springs are near by. Through the tunnel, 
under Tunnel Hill, the road enters the gorge of Mill Creek, called 
Buzzard's Roost, with the Rocky Face cliffs on the right, and 
reaches Dalton (pop., 3,000; Hotel Dalton, Lewis, each $2), a moun- 
tain town (alt., 775 ft.), the stronghold of Johnston at the open- 
ing of the Atlanta campaign (see below). Dalton is also reached by 
the Southern Ry. (Route 15b) from Cleveland, Tenn. The line con- 
tmues south, with Rocky Face at the right, for some miles, when 
these palisades are broken by a gap and succeeded by a new line of 
heights named Chattoogata Mountains. Here, at Tilton, the Conne- 
sauga River is reached and followed to Re sac a, where Oostanaula 
River is crossed. Here the scenery is of a peculiarly romantic and 
beautiful character; backward on the right (northwest) is seen the 
lower end of the Chattoogata range, and the Horn Mountains are 
directly west; between these two ranges lies Snake Creek Gap, by 
which the Union army approached and compelled Johnston to evacu- 
ate Dalton and Resaca. Calhoun and Adairsville are passed, and 
Kingston, where a road comes in from Rome (p. 126), is quickly reached. 
Over this part Sherman's advance met with only weak opposition; but 
a great battle was prepared for them near Cass Station, just below 
Kingston, which the Confederates did not deliver for strategic rea- 
sons. Cartersville (pop., 3,200; Hotel Shelman, $2) is a pretty 
market town, with a branch railroad to the southwest, and over- 
looked by Pine and other mountains (the southern extremity of the 
Smoky Mountains). The Etowah River is crossed just beyond, and 
the road enters the gorge of Allatoona Creek, where Corse's famous 
defense of a position occurred on October 5, 1864, whence originated 
the world-wide song, " Hold the fort, for I am coming," suggested 
by a signal message sent to the beleaguered garrison. Severe and 
constant fighting culminating at Kennesaw Mozmtam (alt., 1,809 ft.), 
around the northern base of which the train winds its way just 
before reaching Marietta. 

Marietta (pop., 3,500; Kennesaw, $2.50; Elmwood, $2) is an inter- 
esting old town of rising importance, and a favorite place of sum- 
mer residence. It is the seat of the Georgia Military Institute, and 
the terminus of the Marietta & North Georgia Rd. (p. 84). The next 
station is Smyrna, beyond which the road sweeps around the 
northern base of Mac Rae's Hill and crosses the Chattahoochee River 



RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM CHATTAXOOGA. 115 

at Bolton. The country is now more open, is thickly planted with 
cotton fields, and several small stations are passed before the train 
reaches Atlanta, 152 miles from Chattanooga. 

Sherman's Atlanta Campaign. 

Within a day's march from almost any point along the line of this 
Western & Atlantic Railroad one may view a battlefield— the scene 
of at least one desperate conflict between Union and Confederate 
forces during the last eighteen months of the Civil War. Ofttimes a 
series of engagements, in which every foot of ground was?'hotly con- 
tested, occurred simultaneously, or nearly so, within gunshot of each 
other. Not less than thirty-three of these now historic places can be 
found, representing more than fifty days' hard fighting, carried on 
sometimes at such short range that swords, bayonets, and revolvers 
were freel}^ used. Two-thirds of these battlefields are in close prox- 
imity to the railroad tracks, either on the right or left, or on both. 

Traveling from north to south, it may be noted that about half- 
way between the stations at Chattanooga and Boyce, to the right, 
was fought the battle of Missionary Ridge (p. 109) on November 25, 
1863. This was followed, next day, by severe encounters at Chicka- 
niaiiga station and Graysvzlle, and on the 27th 2X Ringgold. These 
sharp conflicts, on the left of the tracks, were between pursuing and 
retreating troops. The Union soldiers, under Sherman's orders, 
were closely following the army of Bragg, moving south after his 
disastrous defeat at Chattanooga. Part of the Confederate force, 
during the retreat from Chattanooga, fought bravely at Tunnel Hill , 
about midway on the railroad between Ringgold and Dal ton, at 
which latter place Bragg's army rested and was allowed the winter 
for recruiting and fortification, while the Union forces in their fortress 
at Chattanooga spent the time in preparation for that movement 
southward, which constituted the campaign of Atlanta (April to July, 
1864) and the first stage of Sherman's " March to the Sea." It will 
be better to give a connected description of this; and readers will be 
greatly aided in understanding it, and the relation of each incident 
to the country through which they are traveling upon the cars, if 
they will consult a map, so as to fix in their minds the relative posi- 
tions of the railway stations and towns mentioned; the geographical 
course of the Oostanaula, Etowah, and Chattahoochee rivers; and 
examine the situation of the famous Rocky Face Ridge, Snake Creek 



116 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

Gap, and the gap at Buzzard's Roost, also Pine, Kennesaw, Lost, 
and Brush mountains. 

On May 6, 1S64, when General Sherman, under the approval of 
General Grant, set out from Chattanooga with a force of 98,797 men 
and 254 guns — consisting of the Army of the Cumberland under 
Thomas, the Army of the Tennessee under McPherson, and the 
Army of the Ohio under Schofield — to operate against Atlanta, 
Thomas' forces were at Ringgold, McPherson's army occupied 
ground at Gordon's Mill, about eight miles to the southwest, and 
Schofield's command held possession of the locality near Red Clay, 
ten miles northeast. By drawing a straight line between Gordon's 
Mill and Red Clay it will be seen that the Union army faced Dalt07i, 
the headquarters of the Confederates, at a distance of about fifteen 
miles. This latter force, consisting of about 50,000 men, including 
10,000 cavalry and 120 guns, was in three corps ; Gen. Joseph E. 
Johnston held the chief command. Generals Hardee, Hood, and Polk 
being his corps commanders. The Confederate position was well 
selected, Rocky Face Ridge standing as an almost impregnable bar- 
rier between the two opposing bodies. 

General Sherman, finding a front attack inadvisable, determined, 
if possible, to reach Re sac a by a flank movement and occupy it, thus 
forcing Johnstor± to leave Dalton and protect his interests to the 
southward. To accomplish this without suspicion, a feint was ordered 
on the enemy's front by way of a gap at Buzzard's Roost. Thomas, 
detailed for this duty, met with determined resistance from cavalry 
on reaching the gap. These mounted men were driven back, and 
the Fourth and Twentieth corps of Thomas' army occupied parts of 
the ridge, but encountered such determined opposition that they 
could not hold them. While this maneuver was in progress Schofield 
attacked the enemy's right flank. Thus their attention was for the 
time diverted from McPherson's army, which was marching rapidly 
west of the railroad toward Resaca. Snake Creek Gap was gained 
and held, but the Confederates offered so vigorous a resistance that 
McPherson forebore to advance until Sherman's arrival. 

On May nth, Sherman had practically his whole force in motion 
toward Resaca. Johnston, however, ascertained the true state of 
affairs early enough to prevent its occupation at that time by Union 
troops. He ordered the evacuation of Dalton, and reached Resaca 
by good roads before Sherman's men were well clear of Snake Creek 
Gap. 



RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM CHATTANOOGA. 117 

On May 15th, there was a general engagement before Resaca. 
All except two divisions of the Union command particijDated. 
Orders were issued for the bridging of the Oostanaula with pontoons 
at Lay's Ferry, five miles southwest of Resaca, A division of the 
Sixteenth corps was sent to threaten Calhoun; and Garrard's 
cavalry was dispatched toward Rome, with orders to destroy the 
railroad between Calhoun and Kingston. 

After two days of fighting, Johnston, on the night of the 15th, 
was forced from Resaca and across the river, losing a battery, which 
Hood had advanced beyond its supports. Union troops followed 
closely in pursuit. One of Thomas' divisions was sent to Rome, 
where several guns were captured, and mills and foundries destroyed. 
During the pursuit of the Confederate main body, a sharp engage- 
ment took place at Adairsville. The pursuers destroyed the State 
Arsenal at that place, drove the enemy steadily before them, and, 
on reaching Cassville, about five miles east of Kingston, found 
Johnston and his men apparently ready and willing to make a 
stand. But the next morning it was learned that the retreatmg army 
had determined to occupy a safer and stronger position. The 
Etowah River had been crossed during the night, the bridges 
burned, and a formidable position taken up near the Allatoona Pass. 

General Sherman allowed his men to rest a few days, then, by 
moving to Dallas, by the right, he again endeavored to outflank his 
opponents. Dallas is about eighteen miles nearly due west of 
Marietta. This move was discovered by the enemy, and led to 
battles at New Hope Church, about three miles northeast of Dallas, 
on May 25th, 27th, and 28th. On the latter date, Allatoona Pass was 
enveloped and Johnston forced to retire. 

On June 9th, the Union army moved toward Big Shanty. On 
reaching that point, it was found that the enemy had established 
batteries and signal stations on the summits of Kennesaw. Lost, and 
Pine mountains. Marietta was covered by batteries on Great Kenne- 
saw Mountain. The right of Johnston's line, ten miles in extent, 
was at Brush jMountain, his left at Lost Mountain. The Chattahoo- 
chee River lay some fifteen miles to the south of the Confederate 
position on Kennesaw. From June 14th to 17th heavy fighting 
occurred. Johnston was forced to relinquish his positions on Pine 
and Lost mountains, and the whole Confederate force was gradu- 
ally concentrated on and about Kejinesaw. Operations in this vicin- 



118 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

ity were much hindered by a nearly continuous, heavy downfall of 
rain, which lasted for three weeks. 

On June 27th, Sherman ordered a general assault on Kennesaw. 
After a terrific conflict, the Union troops w^ere repulsed, losing 3,000 
men, the Confederate loss being about one-fifth of that number. 
Sherman then resolved to execute another effective turning move- 
ment. On July 2d, McPherson's army, aided by Stoneman's 
cavalry, moved to the right toward Nickajack Creek and Turner's 
Ferry, southwest of Gilmore station. To save his army, Johnston 
was compelled to abandon Kennesaw, and, at dawn on July 3d, the 
summit of that mountain w^as occupied by Union troops, who could 
distinctly see the enemy moving swiftly through and beyond Mari- 
etta to the Chattahoochee. 

During the pursuit which followed, engagements took place at 
Rtiff's and Sinyrjia, this last occurring on July 4th. Within six da^^-s 
Johnston was pushed beyond the Chattahoochee, where he took up a 
position of great strength behind a line of previously prepared 
entrenchments covering the city of Atlanta. Sherman, feigning to 
cross the river by the right, actually did so by the left, completing 
the move July 7th. He then faced the enemy at Peach tree Creek. 

At this time an important change occurred in the Confederate 
camp. Johnston's generalship, in preferring to fight behind para- 
pets so that his inferior force might be protected as long as possible 
for a final effort within the trenches at Atlanta, did not please the 
Confederate civil authorities at Richmond. He was superseded by 
Hood, who preferred to take positions, when he could, for fighting in 
the open, even against such odds as demanded an almost reckless 
sacrifice of human fighting material. 

Sherman knew this personal characteristic, expected the new gen- 
eral to prove restless within an entrenched position, and was not sur- 
prised when, on July 20th, Hood made a sally on Hooker's corps, 
which had just crossed Peachtree Creek. For four hours a hand-to- 
hand conflict ensued. Then the assaulting force was driven back, 
losing 4,796 men, the Union loss being 1,710. The Union com- 
mander was not loath to follow up the victory. He pushed the foe 
so hard that Hood soon fell back to the main lines of Atlanta. 

Two days later, Hood sallied forth and attacked the Army of the 
Tennessee, on the left of the Union line, about two miles southeast 
of Atlanta. He was repulsed, with a loss of 8,499, the Union loss 



RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM CHATTANOOGA. 119 

being 3,641. This was the first battle of Atlanta, during which 
McPherson fell. On the 28th, Hood, on discovering a flanking move 
in the right of Sherman's line, made another sally against Logan's 
corps. This battle-ground, at Ezra Chu7'ch, is about the same dis- 
tance southwest of Atlanta as the scene of the first battle of Atlanta 
is in the opposite direction. Again Hood's troops were driven back, 
losing 4,632 men, their antagonists' loss being 700. During August 
there were many engagements in the vicinity. By August 28th, 
Sherman's forces, except the Twentieth corps, had taken up positions 
around Atlanta. On September ist, Hood evacuated the city and 
next morning Slocum took possession. Efforts were made to entice 
Sherman out of Georgia by breaking communications, but they failed. 
On November 15, 1864, Atlanta was in flames, its citizens were 
scattered, and the great commander had started on his March to the 
Sea, described on page 124. 

The City of Atlanta. 

Atlanta (pop., with suburbs, about 100,000). Hotels: Aragon 
$3 to $5, (Am. and Eur.), restaurant and summer roof -garden attached 
JKimball, $2.50 up; Markham, $2 to $3; AVeinmeister's (Eur.), $] 
Arlington, Ballard. Belmont, Grant, Marion, Talmadge, %i to $2.50. 
Restaurants: Aragon, Vignaux, Union Depot, Imperial. Legal 
hack-fare, one-horse cabs, 25 cents each person; two-horse, 50 cents. 

Atlanta, the "Gate City," has been the capital of Georgia since 
1868, and is the largest city and most important railway center of the 
State. It is the highest populous town (1,100 feet) between the 
Atlantic and the Great Plains, and has an excellent climate. 

The plotting of the city is confusing, from the fact that independ- 
ently arranged additions have been made, and that country roads 
originally converging here have been kept as streets, and have 
become the main thoroughfares, radiating irregularly from the center 
of the city at The Five Corners (one block north of the Union Rail- 
way Station), where all the electric street-car lines intersect, and the 
cars start in every direction. The broad, depressed avenue devoted 
to the railways and Union station divides the city into "north " and 
"south" sides, connected, at the principal streets, by viaducts over 
the railway tracks. The business center is, therefore, close about the 
railway station, the best stores being at The Five Corners and on 
Whitehall Street. An old and pleasant residence district will be 
found on the south side, in the vicinity and south of the capitol; but 



120 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

the finest residences and most modern growth are northward and west- 
ward. The State Capitol occupies an elevated site two blocks south 
of the Union station, and is a handsome new structure surmounted 
by a dome. It contains a statue of U. S. Senator Benjamin H. Hill, 
many portraits of Southern leaders in war and politics, and a valua- 
ble library (50,000 vols.), where are stored historical archives reaching 
back to Colonial times. The view from its dome (11.00 a. m. to 2.00 
p. m.) is very extensive and interesting. The Governor's ' ' mansion " is 
on Peachtree Street, at the northeast corner of Cain; opposite it, in the 
midst of large ornamental grounds, is the Capital City Club. The 
United States custom house and post office are at Marietta and 
Broad, streets, in front of which is an impressive statue of Henry W. 
Grady, formerly an editor of the Atlanta Constitutio7i, and famous 
as an orator and publicist. At the corner of Hunter and South Pryor 
streets, near by, are the City Hall, County Court House, and Cham- 
ber of Commerce. The city gets water from the Chattahoochee 
River, and the works may be visited. Among several admirable 
office buildings that of the Equitable Insurance Company is most 
lofty and costly ($1,000,000). The Grand Opera House and Hotel 
Aragon would be notable in any city, and the hotel is deserving of 
general praise. The Young Men's Christian Association has a fine 
building, on the corner of Auburn Avenue and North Pryor Street, 
and a branch opposite the railway station. A similar organization, 
the Young Men's Library Association, has a library of 20,000 volumes 
on Marietta Street. The city is well supplied w4th churches (98) 
and public schools, and has the large Clark University, the important 
Technological Institute, Atlanta University, and several theological 
and other professional schools. The mercantile business of the 
city is carried on by some 225 mercantile houses, whose transactions 
are placed at $150,000,000 annually, while $35,000,000 worth of 
manufactures are produced in the six or seven hundred factories — 
largely cotton goods, iron products, railway cars, machinery, and 
furniture. A single firm here is said to have dealt in cotton to 
the extent of 5,000,000 bales in 1894. 

Atlanta is paved with granite blocks to the very limits in many 
directions, making the driving about it a rough experience. An 
exception exists in Peachtree Street, which leads northward, and has 
the finest houses; here the pavement is asphalt, but it is spoiled for 
pleasure-driving by the electric cars and a constant traffic of carts, 
delivery wagons, and country vehicles. Suburban drives are pleas- 



RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM CHATTANOOGA. 121 

ant in several directions, and the roads fair in dry weather. The 
stranger can do all his sight-seeing very comfortably, however, by 
means of the electric cars, which run to great distances and connect 
by transfers into long round trips. One such, in particular, labeled 
nme-7m7e circuit, gives a comprehensive view of the North Side. 
The Capitol Avenue and W. Peach tree line, and the line to McPher- 
son Barracks give a good idea of the South Side. Another line runs 
east, eight miles, to Decatur, Ga. , and the Soldiers' Home. In the 
northern suburbs, the most interesting things are the grounds and 
remaining permanent exhibit of the Exposition of 1895; the Gentle- 
men's Driving Park; Ponce de Leon Avenue and Springs, the latter 
an amusement park. Lakewood is a similar resort at the old water 
works, four miles west. Easterly lie several interesting suburban 
residence " parks," including Grant Park, the most popular pleasure 
ground, containing gravel drives, shaded v^^alks, lakes, and the Gress 
Zoological Gardens. It stands on the ground occupied by Sherman's 
camp, and includes Fort Walker, which is preserved in its original 
form, with guns mounted, etc. Not far distant is McPherson Park, 
with a monumient to McPherson. This is the field of the battle of 
Atlanta (July 22, 1864). The field of the battle of Peachtree Creek 
(July 19th) maybe reached by train on the Seaboard Air-Line. 

McPherson Barracks, four miles outside the city southward, 
reached by electric cars and the Central Rd. of Georgia's trains, is 
the second, largest United States Army post in the country, and very 
interesting. It is now occupied by the Fifth Infantry, whose dress 
parades (daily at 6.00 p. m.) are brilliant spectacles. 

Railroads at Atlanta. 

(i) From Chattanooga: (a) Western & Atlantic Railroad (Route 
21); {b) Southern Railway (Route 22). 

(2) From Knoxville: Marietta & N. Georgia Railroad (p. 84). 

(3) From Charlotte and Eastward: Piedmont Air-Line, South- 
ern Railway (Route 15). 

(4) Yvovn. Athens and Raleigh: Seaboard Air-Line (Route 12). 

(5) Yvova. Augiista: Georgia Railroad (p. 49). 

(6) To Macon and the South: {a) Central Railroad of Georgia (see 
below); (<5) Southern Railway (Route 22. See also page 125). 

(7) To Columbus and the South: Central Railroad of Georgia 
(below). 

(8) To Montgomery, Mobile, and New Orleans: Atlanta & 
West Point Railroad (Route 25). 

(9) To Birmingham and west: Southern Railway (Route 24). 

Route 21 (continued) — Atlanta to Savannah. 

The Central of Georgia's train turns southward from the Union 
station. At McPherson Barracks the hilly country around Atlanta is 



122 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TES. 

left behind and the flatter region of Middle Georgia entered. The 
population is numerous, and cotton everywhere seen. The first 
important station !■& Jonesboro (pop., 800). 

Here one of the hardest battles of the Atlanta campaign was 
fought. After the destruction of the West Point Rd., on August 
28th, the Union army moved to this line of railroad to effect its 
destruction. Howard's corps reached the Flint River, half a mile 
west of Jonesboro, where he was met by half of Hood's army under 
Hardee. A severe fight followed on the 3ist^ when Hardee's effort 
to capture Howard's rude breastworks failed, and he hastily retreated 
to his works. These were attacked in the afternoon by the Union 
forces and taken, including a whole brigade of Confederates, the 
remainder of the defeated army fleeing to Atlanta. Howard's 
cavalry then raided southward, destroying the railroad in places, 
almost as far as Macon. 

Griffin, the next station, is a junction of lines south to Columbus 
and west to Newman and Rome. At Barnesville a line leads south- 
west to Thomaston. Here the road turns more to the east and, after 
passing through Forsyth and Summerfield, reaches Macon, 103 miles 
from Atlanta. The whole of this railroad was destroyed in 1864 by 
the Union forces under Sherman, the story of whose " march to the 
sea " along this route is told below. 

Macon (pop., 25,000; New Lanier, $3; Brown, $2.50; Park, special 
rates) is the most important town of Middle Georgia, and a railway and 
business center of considerable importance. It occupies a central posi- 
tion in the most fertile and densely populated part of the State, and 
has no competitor within 100 miles, while numerous railroads and a 
somewhat navigable river fetch and carry its trade. It has more than 
doubled in population since 1880, and prosperity has kept pace. 

This is mainly due to mercantile advancement. Macon has 
'nearly 100 wholesale houses, whose trade amounts to nearly 
$50,000,000 annually. Cotton is extensively dealt in, the annual 
receipts being about 250,000 bales, local crop, a third of which is 
retained in the warehouses. There are three cotton compresses, nine 
dealers in cotton, and three cotton-cloth factories. Bibb County (of 
which this is the capital) and its neighbor, Houston, are the leading 
cotton-producing counties of the State. This region also produces 
a great quantity of fruit, which is becoming an important item in 
Macon's trade. A circle with a radius of fifty miles comprises a remark- 
able area of productiveness in this respect, especially of peaches, 
and includes some immense orchards upon the ridgelands at Griffin, 
Forsyth, Marshallville, Fort Valley, Barnesville, Danville (1,000 
acres of peach trees in one lot), and elsewhere. The product is now 
worth $1,000,000 annually, and is steadily growing, with a prospect 




THE FEDERAL BUILDING — Macon, Ga. 



Hotel Lanier 

The Leading Hotel 
of Macon 




Centrally located, 

Near the principal public buildings 

and business houses. 



ONLY HOTEL IN THE CITY HAVING 

STEAM HEAT AND PASSENGER ELEVATOR. 



Under the management of 

B. W. SPERRY, 

Late Proprietor of the Brown House. 



RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM CHATTANOOGA. 123 

of direct exportation to Europe. The lumber interest is very impor- 
tant here. About 25,000,000 feet of sawed yellow pine is now handled 
at Macon annually, a large portion of Avhich is consumed here in the 
planing mills, furniture factories, carriage works, and car shops. 
Good clay exists, and supports seven brick and tile works, while one 
of the most extensive breweries in the South, a candy factory ship- 
ping a large product, several foundries and machine shops, and 
many smaller concerns contribute to the city's wealth. There are 
seven banks. The tax valuation is $15,000,000, and the bonded debt 
$568,800. There is probably no more solid and wealthy city in the 
South. 

Macon has not much to show the mere sightseer, though plenty to 
interest the deeper student. Its streets are broad and well shaded, 
and the city has good public buildings and several statues and monu- 
ments, including one to the founder of the Central Railroad of Geor- 
gia's system of. railways, and the industrial development it promoted. 

Here began the railways of the State, a charter having been 
received in 1833, under which was begun the construction of a road 
to Savannah in 1836. Great difficulties were encountered, but trains 
began running between Macon and Savannah in 1843, out of which 
has grown the speedily-developed system of the State, to which the 
city has contributed, besides lands and privileges, $3,300,000 in cash. 

The city early became the residence of many old families of social 
rank and wealth, who built beautiful homes along the Ocmulgee (on 
which formerly lines of fine steamers ran regularly to the sea); and 
the town early became a center of education and refinement. This 
character it keeps. Its public schools are among the best in the 
South, and it has several institutions for higher education. Here is 
the Wesley an Female College, chartered in 1S30, and " the first col- 
lege in the world to confer academic degrees on women." Mercer 
University, for young men, is a more recent but flourishing institution. 
Still more recent are the Roman Catholic (Jesuit) St. Stanislaus Col- 
lege for boys, and the Mount de Sales Academy for girls. There is a 
Public Library, excellently conducted; two State Asylums for the 
Blind (white and colored), and several benevolent institutions and 
hospitals exist. Several pretty parks adorn the city and its delight- 
ful suburbs, the principal of which is Cejitral Park, on the river 
bank, which contains the buildings for the annual fair, and a race 
course and racing stables of wide repute. The New Lanier House 
occupies a conveniently central position, has steam heat, an elevator, 
and various modern appointments and luxuries which recommend 
it to travelers. 



124 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

Railroads diverge from Macon in every direction, connecting it 
with Augusta (p. 49), Savannah, Florida, and the west and north. 
These number eleven in all, and give the city an immense business 
advantage. All except the Southern Railway combine in a Union 
station on Fourth Street, near the hotels and street cars; the Southern 
station is a mile distant, but reached by electric cars. 

Continuing the Central Railroad's route to Savannah, the train 
leaving Macon crosses the Ocmulgee River and then turns west to 
Gordon, where a branch leads north to Milledgeville and Augusta 
(Route 13b). Continuing across the swampy valley of the Oconee 
River, it reaches Tenille, at the intersection of a line from Augusta to 
Wrightsville, then passes to the headwaters of the Ogeechee River 
and descends that attractive stream through Millen, where the road 
from Savannah diverges to Waynesboro and Augusta. The remain- 
der of the line is southwest down the eastern bank of the Ogeechee 
to Savannah, 432 miles from Chattanooga, 294 miles from Atlanta, 
and 191 miles from Macon by this route. 

Sherman's March to the Sea. 

After Gen. Wm. T. Sherman had returned from his chase of the 
Confederate forces under Hood, in the autumn of 1864, he caused 
every non-combatant in Atlanta to leave the city, sent Schofield's part 
of his army north to assist Thomas in Tennessee, and with them 
all — the sick and disabled and all useless equipage and baggage — 
withdrew his garrisons from the Western & Atlantic Rd. . etc. (p. 109), 
which was utterly destroyed, to the ruin, of course, of all his commu- 
nications, and prepared to march through the heart of the Confed- 
erate States, subsisting on the country, and destroying the means of 
communication and source of supplies from the west to Lee's army 
in Virginia. His ob j ective point was undecided, but apparently it was 
Augusta and a course directly east. His army numbered about 
62,000 men all told, with sixty-five field guns, and Generals Howard 
and Slocum as wing commanders. The cavalry formed an independ- 
ent active arm under Kilpatrick. The business part of Atlanta was 
burned to the ground and abandoned on November 1 6th. The gen- 
eral order of march was by four parallel roads, with foragers collect- 
ing food on both sides, and the cavalry protecting the flanks against 
Wheeler's Confederate cavalry (the only organized enemy then in 
Northern Georgia), and seizing upon strategic points, or destroying 
arsenals, foundries, etc. The general line of this (the Central) rail- 



RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM CHATTANOOGA. 125 

road was followed by the right wing, and the track, bridges, and sta- 
tions were completely destroyed, while the left wing tore up a large 
part of the railroad to Augusta, and then, turning south, swept 
through Covington and Eatontown to INIilledgeville, which was occu- 
pied, without serious opposition, in spite of the frantic efforts made 
by Confederate leaders to arouse the citizens and country people to a 
determined defense; the people knew that general devastation of 
private property would follow their probably ineffectual resistance 
and declined to risk it. The arsenal and a few public buildings were 
destroyed there, and the columns moved on (November 24th) south- 
westward. 

Meanwhile Sherman's left wing had had a lively fight with the 
Confederate garrison of Macon, and beaten them back into their en- 
trenchments; but there was nothing to be gained by taking that city, 
and, when its railway approaches had been thoroughly destroyed, it 
was left in the rear. During the same time the Union cavalry was 
pressing the Confederates back in the region of Millen and Waynes- 
boro, keeping up the delusion that Augusta was the objective 
point. Then (November 3d) Millen w^as left behind, its deserted 
prison-pen and public buildings in ashes, and the whole army moved 
down the railw^ay and Oconee Valley toward Savannah. Hardee and 
McLane had some Confederate troops in the way, but they were 
driven back without any battle or pause. The weather was fine, the 
roads good, the troops were abundantly fed, healthy, and merry, and 
every one reached the outskirts of Savannah, and camped in a great 
semicircle about the city on December loth, in the highest confi- 
dence and spirits. The blockading squadron and the special ships 
sent to meet Sherman — who for two months had not been heard of 
at the North — were at once signaled to, the capture of Fort McAl- 
lister opened communication between the army and the fleet; and on 
December 20th the city was abandoned by the Confederates, who 
fled into South Carolina before the single road (Coast Line) open to 
them could be closed. Sherman's total loss by death on the whole 
march was only 108 men. 

For Savannah, see p. 18 

Route 22.— Southern Railway. Chattanooga 
to Brunswick, Ga. 

This route is the continuation of Routes 15 and 16, and of the 
Queen & Crescent Sleeping Car Route 18. The road passes east 

U 



126 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

from the Central Station in Chattanooga, through Missionary Ridge 
by the tunnel under Sherman Heights, to Ooltewah Junction, on the 
main line to Knoxville ; then turns south and descends the valley of 
the Connesauga through Cohutta (branch to Cleveland, Tenn., by 
which certain cars pass directly to and from Knoxville), the station for 
Cohutta Springs, ten miles east. At Dalton (p. 114) the Western & 
Atlantic Rd. is crossed, and the line then runs south through a hilly, 
sparsely-settled region, close along the base of Rocky Face and 
Chattooga mountains, and down the Oostanaula River to the conflu- 
ence of the Oostanaula and Etowah rivers (forming the Coosa), 
where it comes to Rome, a flourishing city (pop. 7,000; Armstrong, 
$3; Central, $2; Rome, $2) among the hills, and in the midst of the 
" cotton belt." It has important cotton mills and other factories, and 
was a military depot of importance to the Confederates, who had iron- 
works and factories for arms and ordnance there, the destruction of 
which was the ultimate object of Streight's Union cavalry expedition 
from West Tennessee in April, 1863; but his ammunition and horses 
gave out before reaching the place, and he was captured. After the 
capture of Atlanta it was occupied by Sherman, and all its public works 
destroyed during his pursuit of Hood, who passed that way on his 
projected invasion of West Tennessee. From Rome the line trends 
gradually eastward, crosses the low divide between the Coosa and 
Chattahoochee rivers, and descends to the valley of the Sweetwater 
River. Here, at Austell, it joins the line from Atlanta to Birming- 
ham, Ala. (Route 24), and enters Atlanta from the northwest. 

Near Austell Junction (i^^ m. by branch line) are the old and 
widely-known Bowdeii Lithia Springs, where the Sweetwater Park 
hotel and baths can accommodate 500 guests, amid all the conveniences 
and appointments of a modern first-class watering place. The situa- 
tion upon a pine-clad ridge (alt., 1,200 ft.) gives a climate resembling 
that of Aiken, S. C. (p. 47), and there is much in the surroundings 
to amuse and interest the visitor. The waters are highly efficient in 
the relief of dyspeptic and urinary diseases, and are not only utilized 
at the springs, but are extensively exported. This is the site of the 
Piedmo7it Chant aiiqiia, an educational institution, having large orna- 
mental grounds, summer residences, and buildings for the summer 
school which is held here annually; the amphitheater will hold 6,000 
persons. It is the principal Georgian rival of the original " Chautau- 
qua," in Western New York. 

For Atlanta, see p. 119. 

From Atlanta southward the Southern Railway pursues a route 



RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM CHATTANOOGA. 127 

eastward of Route 21. The first noteworthy station is McDonough, 
where the Georgia Midland & Gulf Railroad branches off to Colum- 
bus, ninety-eight miles. 

Warm Springs on this line, eighty-five miles from Atlanta and 
forty -two miles from Columbus, is a noted resort among the Pine 
Mountains of Meriwether County. The springs are very copious, the 
water is used for both bathing and drinking, and is highly recom- 
mended for rheumatic and hepatic troubles. Various cold mineral 
springs are near by. The hotel ($3) is large and w^ell managed. The 
Chalybeate Springs, seven miles south, have a local reputation. 

The next station of importance is Jackson (22 m.), beyond which 
is Flovilla, station for Indian Springs, three miles west by tramway. 

Indian Springs is an old established health and pleasure resort in 
the pine uplands, having a variety of medicinal waters. The princi- 
pal hotel is The Wigwam ($3), a large, new house with all modern 
appliances. The Calumet and other smaller hotels and boarding- 
houses also exist. Quail-shooting is fine in this neighborhood 
during the winter, when many Northern invalids find a refuge here. 

Beyond Flovilla the road approaches the Ocmulgee River, and 
follows its western bank through an agricultural and fruit-growing 
country to Macon (88 m., p. 122). From Macon southwest this route 
passes through the almost continuous cotton plantations and pine 
lands of Middle and Southern Georgia, where there is little to inter- 
est the eye. It produces great quantities of lumber and naval stores, 
will grow fruit well, and gives a rich yield of corn or cotton where 
properly cultivated. The Ocmulgee River is followed to West Lake, 
where the line trends eastward. At Empire the road from Dublin to 
Hawkinsville is crossed; the latter is something of a summer resort, 
on the river, fifteen miles west. 

The Ocmulgee River, when clear of obstructions, is navigable for 
large steamboats from its mouth to some distance above Macon. 
Before the invention of railroads it was extensively so used, and has 
continued an important means of transportation in its lower portion. 
The railroads, however, killed commerce, and the river above 
Hawkinsville became encumbered with snags. Recently the chan- 
nel has been cleared, $500,000 have been spent upon it by the Federal 
Government; steamboats are now running to Macon, and the stream 
bids fair to develop into an important competitor with railway traffic 
for heavy freights and local custom. A trip upon it would be an 
interesting and novel experience for the leisurely tourist. 

Eastman (pop., 1,100; Lanier, $3.50; Ashburn, $2.50) is the county 
seat of Dodge, fifty-eight miles south of Macon, on the rolling uplands 



128 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

(alt., 362 ft.) which cross the State from the region of Aiken to that 
of Thomasville, and has the same open pine woods and salubrious 
climate. The village is therefore a favorite place of residence and a 
summer resort for coast people. There are several hotels and board- 
ing-houses. South of Eastman the road gradually descends to the 
sw^ampy forests along the Little Ocmulgee River, and at Lumber City 
crosses the Great Ocmulgee, which, ten miles east, unites with the 
Oconee to form the Altamaha. Small stations io\\o^?7■ to Jess up, at the 
intersection of the Plant System between Savannah and Waycross 
(p. 51), an hour's ride beyond which is Everett, w^here the Florida 
Short Line (p. 53) is intersected, and sleeping-cars for Jacksonville 
are switched off and sent south. Tw^enty miles more brings the 
traveler to Brunswick, 430 miles from Chattanooga. (For Brunswick 
and southern connections, see p. 23.) Distance from Washington 
to Jacksonville, via New FloridaiShort Line and Everett, 986 miles; 
via Asheville, Chattanooga, and Everett, 1,131 miles. 

Route 23.— Suwanee- River or Tifton Route. 

This is a through sleeping-car route between St. Louis» Nashville, 
and Jacksonville, and also from Atlanta over the Central Railroad 
of Georgia, Georgia Southern & Florida Rd. , and Plant System. 

From Nashville Route 19 is followed to Chattanooga, and Route 
21 to Macon. From Macon the line strikes due south, west of the 
Ocmulgee, with a branch westward from Sofkee to Thomaston and 
Lagrange. The Echeconnee River is crossed near Wellston, and the 
high pine-clad ridge forming the watershed between the Ocmulgee 
and Flint rivers is followed for 100 miles. 

At Cordele, a new and bustling village, the Central Railroad of 
Georgia's line, from Savannah to Montgomery (p. 21), is crossed. 
Americus is now thirty-one miles west and Albany thirty-five miles 
southwest. Tifton, forty-one miles farther south, is at the crossing 
of the Brunswick & Western Rd. where the through cars diverge 
and proceed to Brunswick and Jacksonville, via Waycross. 

The Georgia Southern & Florida Rd. continues south from Tifton 
to Valdosta, where it crosses the Savannah, Florida & Western Rd., 
then enters Florida, crosses the AUapaha River, and later the Suwa- 
nee River, and proceeds to Lake City (p. 214) and Palatka (p. 143), 
through the heart of Western Florida. 



RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM CHATTANOOGA. 129 

Route 24.— Atlanta to Birniing^liani, Memphis, 
and Greenville, Miss. 

The Southern Railway continues its route fifteen miles west over 
its own line to Birmingham, Ala., and thence by the Kansas City, 
Memphis & Birmingham Rd. to Memphis with Pullman cars 
between Memphis and New York. Passing Lithia Springs (p. 126) 
the line proceeds west through the fine fruit-growing districts of 
Douglas and Haralson counties, where Hood retreated after the fall 
of Atlanta, and Sherman tried in vain to catch him. At the source 
of the Tallapoosa River, near the boundary of the State, is Talla- 
poosa Springs (Lithia Springs Hotel, $3), one of the fashionable resorts 
of the South, having a thoroughly modern and fully furnished hotel 
ample for 250 guests. The road then enters Alabama near Edwards- 
ville, and reaches Anniston (pop., 10,000; Calhoun, $2; Wilmer, $2), 
an important railway junction and iron-making town. This is one 
of the new manufacturing towns built up, largely by outside capital, 
since the war. It is beautifully situated among the last foothills 
of the Blue Ridge, at the healthful altitude of 690 feet above the 
sea, and is well built and sightly in every way. Near by are exten- 
sive deposits of brown iron ore, which are here smelted in two 
large furnaces, and a large part of the product is worked up on 
the spot, in foundries and iron factories. There are extensive flour 
mills and car-building shops. Besides this, Anniston has become a 
prominent cotton mart, and here is one of the largest of Southern 
cotton mills, which has been exporting its output to China for many 
years. The city contains fine streets and residences, and is espe- 
cially proud of its church of St. Michael and All Angels, and of 
its Nobles Institute for boys and girls. A few miles west of Annis- 
ton the Cumberland Mountains are entered and the central part 
of the coal-producing and iron-making district of the State is trav- 
ersed to Birmingham. 

To Memphis the traveler proceeds over the line of the Kansas 
City, Memphis & Birmingham Rd.. northwesterly through Alabama 
and Northern Mississippi. Its most interesting points will be found 
mentioned under Routes 29, 30, 31, and 32. This is a sleeping-car 
route between Kansas City and Jacksonville, via Atlanta, Everett 
(Route 22), and Florida Short Line (Route 14). 

Westward of Birmingham the route of the Southern Railway is 
very direct through Western Alabama, via Fayette to Columbus, 
9 



130 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

Miss., (p. 223). That State is then crossed via West Point, Winona, 
CarroUton, Greenwood (on the Yazoo River), Indianola, and Rich- 
mond — a part of the State described under Routes 29, 30, and 31 

Route 25.— Atlanta to New Orleans. 

This is the continuation o£ the sleeping-car Route 15, over the 
Atlanta & West Point Rd., an old line running southwest through 
the best agricultural and fruit districts of Western Georgia and 
terminating on the Chattahoochee River at West Point. Here 
the route crQSses into Alabama and soon reaches Opelika (partly 
destroyed by Union cavalry in 1864), at the intersection of the direct 
road between Birmingham, Ala., and Columbus, Ga. It then follows 
the Western Railway of Alabama to Montgomery (p. 229), whence it 
may be continued by Route 28 directly, or via Selma and Route 26, 
to Mobile and New Orleans, and also connects straight west, through 
Selma, Ala., and Meridian, Miss., to Jackson, Vicksburg, and Shreve- 
port. La. 

Route 26.— Chattanooga to Central Alabama. 

Lines controlled by the Southern Railway give a picturesque, 
route into Central Alabama, to which brief reference ought to be 
made, although no tourist resorts of much consequence are reached 
by it. This follows Route 22 to Rome, Ga. (p. 126), a short distance 
beyond which (at Atlanta Junction) it diverges to the left and 
enters Alabama at Bluffto7i, at the foot of Tecumseh or Signal Moun- 
tain, a new iron-smelting and manufacturing town having a 
neat little hotel (The Signal, $2.50) and exceedingly pleasant sur- 
roundings. The American Arms Company and a car-wheel factory 
are the largest concerns outside of the mines at the "iron-bluffs," 
cliffs of brown ore near by, and the smelting furnaces they supply. 
A few miles farther is Piedmont {^oy>.^ 2,000; Hotel Piedmont, $2), 
another new town, at the old " Cross Plains" where turnpikes inter- 
sected, surrounding furnaces and factories, and in the midst of lovely 
scenery, with Mount Weisner (alt., 1,928 ft.) in the background, north- 
ward, and Colvin's Mountains west. 

This valley was overrun by the army of Hood and Sherman's 
scouts in the early autumn of 1864, but no battles were fought here. 
This end of the railroad was not then built, but the more southern 
part was in operation, with a northern terminus at Blue Mountain 
Station, where Hood couldreceive his supplies from Mobile, and which, 



RAILROADS SOUTHWARD FROM CHATTANOOGA. IBl 

in fact, formed his base for that early part of his campaign. Early 
in October Hood passed northward out of this valley, crossed the 
Coosa near the State line, and after circling about in the corner of 
Georgia very skillfully, and much to Sherman's annoyance, moved 
back to Gadsden and then into Northern Alabama for his invasion of 
Tennessee, Mineral springs abound in all this part of the State, 
many with small local hotels, such as Walkers', near Piedmont, and 
Borden Springs, southward. 

Turning southward through Jacksonville (pop., 1,500; Tradegar 
Inn, $2), on the slope of Blue Mountain, the road soon reaches Aiinis- 
ton (p. 129). 

This whole region is elevated, beautiful, and healthy; but the next 
county south (Talladega) has long been noted as a place for summer 
residents and health-seekers. Talladega (pop., 2,200), twenty-four 
miles south of Anniston, is a railway center and county seat, 
which has the State Institute for Deaf Mutes and a large college for 
girls. Near by are the Coosa (or Talladega) Springs, at the base of 
Hillsbee Mountain, the Shocco Springs, and the Chandler Springs, 
the latter in the mountains twelve miles southwest. All these are 
favorite resorts with families from the southern lowlands of the 
State. C/uldersburg (pop., 800; New South, $2.50) is at the cross- 
ing of the Central Rd. of Georgia, between Birmingham and Colum- 
bus, Ga., and Columbiana is the county seat of Shelby, a few 
miles below which is Shelby Springs, in past days a fashionable 
and famous watering place; and then comes Calera, at the intersec- 
tion of the Louisville & Nashville Rd.'s main line (Route 28) 
to Montgomery. This is on the borders of the great Alabama coal 
field and thirty-one miles directly south of Birmingham, with which 
this line is connected by a branch from Birmingham Junction, eight 
miles west of Calera, making an independent Southern Railway route 
from Birmingham to Selma (96 m.). Our route continues west a few 
miles, and then turns south and descends through a forested region 
to the terminus on the Alabama River at Selma. 

Selma (pop., 8,000; Hotel Albert, $2.50) is favorably situated. 
The Alabama is navigable to its mouth and for a long distance above 
the city. Westward stretch the low " black" cotton lands; eastward 
the higher pine region. It receives and ships, therefore, great 
quantities of cotton and lumber, and its radiating railroads give it 
commercial advantages, and, in antebellum days, made it the abode 
of wealthy men whose fine old homes remain to please the visitor 
by their strange picturesqueness. 



132 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

The Civil War greatly stimulated Selma's cloth and clothing; 
factories not only, but especially the foundries and machine shops, 
where cannon, ammunition, and arms were made in vast quantities 
for the Confederate service. The town, therefore, became an early 
object of interest to the Union commanders; but it was so far within 
the Confederacy and so well guarded that it could not quickly be 
approached, and was not captured until April lo, 1865, when Wilson 
defeated there the Confederate Forrest, dispersed the latter's army, 
and destroyed all the foundries and public property. 

Selma is on the great east-and-west trunk line, between Mont- 
gomery and Meridian, Miss., and through trains may be obtained 
here for Mobile and New Orleans, over Route 27. 

The Mobile & Birmingham Railroad also gives a direct route 
to Mobile, but runs only one train a day each way, without sleeping- 
cars. Its length is 163 miles, saving much over the routes from 
Selma via Montgomery or Meridian. Its course from Selma is west 
fourteen miles to Marion Junctio7t, on the Southern Ry., where it 
connects with the Southern's line northward to Marion, Greensboro, 
and Akron (Route 27). The Mobile & Birmingham is thus con- 
nected with Southern Railway lines, giving a direct course between 
the two cities, likely to be utilized some future day for comfortable 
through traffic. It course lies nearly parallel with the Alabama^ 
River, and a dozen miles or so west of it, along the watershed 
between it and the Tombigbee. The latter river is crossed at Jack- 
son, 100 miles above Mobile, and thence to the seaport this road pur- 
sues an almost exact north and south course west of the Tombigbee 
and Mobile rivers, passing, twenty-nine miles north of Mobile, the 
lately abandoned army post, formerly known as Mt. Vernon Bar- 
racks. It enters the Union station in Mobile. 



V. 

FLORIDA, 



Jacksonville and the St. Johns River. 

The City of Jacksonville. 

Population, 30,000 (permanent). Hotels (lowest rates by the day 
are noted here as elsewhere; prices range upward according to 
accommodations): St. James, 500 guests, $4; Windsor, 600, $4; 
Everett, 400, $3; Carletaji, 200, $2.50; Gj^and View, 100, $2; 
Plac/de, 100, $2.50; Ne7if Duval, 150, $2.50; Getieva, 100, $2.50; 
Warne7\ 50, $2.50; St. John's, 75, $2; Roseland, 100, $2; Glenada, 
100, $2; ArUngton, 75, $2; River View, 60, $2; Central, 40, $1.50. 
Rooms (9// /j/ are furnished by the Oxford, Acme, Bristol, Bettelini's, 
Charleston, Traveler's, and Smith's new apartment house, from 50 
cents to $1 a day. All these have restaurants in the same block. 
Restaiira7its, giving meals only, are the Continental, City Dining 
Hall, West End, and Acme. 

Jacksonville, not many years ago, was the central point of tour- 
ist resort in Florida — was " Florida," substantially, to the Northern 
people who began, after the close of the war, to flock thither to 
spend the cold months of the 3^ear. This is now changed to a great 
degree, and for various reasons the city has become an entrepot 
rather than a residence — a business, instead of a pleasure city. This 
is the result of its situation as commanding the commerce and 
growth of the State, and a consequence of the extension of trans- 
portation lines to more southerly and pleasant winter residences. 
The streets of the city have, therefore, a more commonplace appear- 
ance, and the hotels are filled with more transient guests, than in 
almost any other town of the " Peninsular " State. 

Jacksonville is situated on the northern bank of the St. Johns 
River, at the point, nearly twenty-five miles from the sea, where it 
makes a sharp bend from a northerly to an easterly course. The 
effect of the current, checked at this bend, has been to lay .down a 

(133) 



134 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

line of shallows, or a kind of bar, which made the river fordable, and 
the Indians knew the place as the Cow's Ford — a name adopted by 
the earliest settlers. Having no special attractiveness, it seems not 
to have been inhabited until the English obtained possession of the 
country, and, with their usual colonizing enterprise, had begun to 
push roads in various directions from St. Augustine, and invite their 
neighbors to come and visit them, and to stay as long as possible — 
a habit the Floridans still have. One of these roads, called the 
King's Road, and extending to Georgia, came to this natural cross- 
ing place for the passage of the St. Johns; and an Irishman, 
named Lewis Z. Hogan, or Hogans, built a cabin on the south side 
of the river early in the century, and doubtless served as ferryman 
for chance travelers. 

In 1816, he married a Spanish woman named Maria Suarez, who 
owned 200 acres of land on the opposite bank, the site of the present 
city. Hogan moved to the northern bank, built a home upon his 
wife's land, and soon others gathered about him. In 1819 Florida 
became a part of the United States, and received its share of the 
movement of migration westward, which followed the second war 
with Great Britain. By 1822, there was not only a regular ferry and 
a tavern, but a town had been laid out and organized; but it was not 
until 1833 that articles of incorporation were made, and the name 
Jacksojiville legally applied in honor of Andrew Jackson, who had 
won victories at Pensacola and elsewhere in the South, and was the 
first governor of the newly purchased territory. As the best available 
seaport, quickly outgrowing both Fernandina and St. Augustine in 
that respect, because of the large river region tributary to it, it quickly 
became the business center of the State, and it at once began a trade 
in cutting and exporting lumber, which constantly increased in 
importance. The Seminole uprising in 1835 cut off, to a great 
extent, the farming and lumbering of the interior of the State, and 
the town became filled with frightened country people, who forti- 
fied it by means of stockades and blockhouses against attack by the 
Indians. But after this insurrection had been quelled trade was 
resumed, the lumber commerce grew, and the town had a population 
of 3,000 active people when the Civil War broke out in 1861. This 
was a ruinous experience for the little port. It was left to itself at 
first, but the river was blockaded, and from 1862 to 1864 the town was 
continually being visited and occupied for short periods by Federal 
troops, while between times the Confederates held possession. The 
mills, shipping, and other industries of the place were destroyed; 
many of the inhabitants, having declared their loyalty to the Union 
upon the arrival of the Northern troops, were carried away when these 
left the country, and by one side or another nearly the whole town 
was finally burned to the ground. These Northern warrior-visitors, 
however, did an unexpected service for the country. They were 



FLORIDA. 135 

principally New England troops, and among their officers were Col. 
Thomas Wentworth Higginson and other influential Bostonians. 
They made haste to report upon the beneficial character of the 
winter climate of Florida, the cheapness and easy accessibility of the 
land, and the opportunity the State offered to the fruit grower. 
These soldiers were the first advertisers of Florida, and thus 
returned, many fold, the damage they did. 

Since the war, Jacksonville has prospered steadily. Its business 
began with the receipt and disposal of some cotton that had been 
concealed in the interior of the State, and was continued by a 
growing trade in lumber. 

Little cotton is now handled here; the reports of the New Orleans 
Cotton Exchange do not mention Jacksonville at all, and include the 
crop of Florida in its Georgia statistics. Yet cotton is an important 
factor in the resources and business of the State. The total crop 
reported for 1894-5, was 60,000 bales. Most, if not all, of this is of the 
black-seeded, long-staple, " sea island" variety, and amounts to one- 
third of the whole world's production of this kind, Egypt being 
Florida's only competitor. It is nearly all handled at Gainesville. 
All the cotton used in the manufacture' of spool thread by the great 
Scottish firm, Paisley & Co., which makes the celebrated Coats' 
thread, is grown in Florida, and mostly bought at Madison. Another 
Scotch house, the Clarks, who make the O. N. T. thread, also 
procures its supplies from this State ; and the head of the firm has 
recentl}^ purchased a large shore property, south of Tallahassee, as a 
winter residence. 

The rise of the orange industry, steadily developed into the 
growth and shipment of other fruits and more lately of early vege- 
tables ; ship-building ; wholesale trading with country merchants ; 
the construction and management of railways ; and latest, and per- 
haps most important of all, the discovery, mining, and manufacture 
of phosphates, have all contributed to the town's revenue, and have 
caused a solid, enterprising, progressive city to rise upon the ruins 
of the little town knocked to pieces by the Civil War. 

Few of its citizens, however, have any associations with Florida 
as far back as that. Jacksonville men are mainly immigrants from 
States north of the Carolinas. The city they have built, therefore, 
has not the appearance of the old Southern life, such as gives Talla- 
hassee and Mobile a romantic interest in the eyes of the stranger, but 
looks like a northern or western town embowered in evergreen oaks, 
interspersed with palmettos. The gardens are a mass of shrubbery, 
among which the great pink-flowered crepe myrtle trees are con- 
spicuous in summer; while numerous subtropical trees, shrubs, and 



136 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

plants, with flowers and roses blooming almost the year round, de- 
light the eye of the Northern stranger in winter. The pretty park 
overlooked b}^ the St. James and Windsor hotels is a charming 
example of such a garden. 

Jacksonville stretches along the river side, Bay Street, the prin- 
cipal thoroughfare, running parallel with the stream and next to it. 
It is paved with brick for a mile, and lined with shops in which all 
sorts of goods are sold at only a slight advance over Northern prices. 
There are few thmgs a traveler needs which can not be bought in 
Jacksonville. The Union railway station is at the upper end of Bay 
Street, and electric cars connect it with the hotels and all principal 
streets. The foot of Hogan Street may be called the central point, 
and here are the railway offices, the wharves of the New York and 
up-river steamers, the banks, curio and photograph shops, and the 
largest retail stores. The beautiful new Federal building, a marble 
structure with every modern appliance, housing the post office. Fed- 
eral courts, and custom house, is one block north, at the corner of 
Hogan and Forsyth streets, in the center of the hotel district. 

Jacksonville's Hotels are numerous, modern, and in the main 
well kept. The two oldest and largest face the pretty St. James 
Park on Hogan Street, two blocks from Bay and one above the new 
post office. The St. James is the older and has been owned and man- 
aged for twentj^-five years by the same person, Mr. J. R. Campbell, 
who has a genial habit of opening his house for each season by a 
reception on Thanksgiving Day. It is four stories in height, fronts 
the whole length of the park, and provides for the comfort of the 
wealthiest and most exacting of winter tourists. 

The same degree of preparation characterizes its neighbor, The 
Windsor, which occupies nearly the whole of a square, its piazzas 
fronting 210 feet on the west side of the park. During the season of 
1895-6, Warren F. Leland, of wide reputation as a hotel manager, 
will have charge of this house. 

The Everett (proceeding in the order of importance) is the larg- 
est hotel in the city, is built of brick, is comparatively new, and has 
distinctly modern furniture and equipments throughout. It is near 
the business-heart of the city, commands a view of the river, and 
gets the breeze from the salt water. 

The Carleton is also of brick, and overlooks the river from the 
lower end of the paved portion of Bay Street, a quarter of a mile 



rr^l FOURTEENTH 

I |l ^ SEASON 

Grand View ^ 
Hotel 

JACKSONVILLE, 
^ FLORIDA 

FORSYTH STREET, between Bridge and Clay streets, centrally 
located on high and spacious grounds, commanding a view of 
the St. Johns River. Nearest hotel to Union Station; three blocks 
from Post Office and U. S. Government building. Large, pleasant 
rooms, single or en suite, well furnished. Hot and cold water baths. 

ALL MODERN IMPROVEMENTS 

To insure to our kind patrons the best accommodations 
for the money, I selected, while in New Hampshire this 
summer. Skilled CookS and Help from the White 
Mountain Resorts. 

RATES, $2 TO $3 PER DAY 

Billiard and Pool Parlor and Ten-Pin Alley in separate 
building. Grand View bus meets all trains and steam- 
ers. Baggage transfer connected with the hotel. ^ 
Horses and Carriages in readiness at all times. Make W^ 
no mistake and try the Grand Yiew. Address by 
letter or telegram. 

Open November 15th to may 1st. 

G. Ml. SMITH, Proprietor, 

TELEPHONE. Of "Chiswick Inn," White fountains, LITTLETON, N. H. 



From the Hotel Mail, Sept. 23, 1893. 
Mr G W Smith, of Chiswick Inn, Littleton, N. H., and the Grand View, 
Jacksonville, Fla., is officially declared to be the most popular landlord m New 
Hamnshire he haVing won the solid gold watch, in the votmg contest mstituted 
by the Littleton Republic Jcurjial. Mr. Smith received 10,862 votes agamst 
9,171 for the second favorite. 



FLORIDA. 137 

east of the others, and near the Yacht Club landing. It has sus- 
tained its reputation for many years. 

The Grand View, between Bridge and Clay streets, not far from 
the Everett, is centrally located and enjoys a river view. This is a 
real New Englander's rendezvous, a cozy family hotel run by a New 
Hampshire hotel man, who brings his cooks, etc., to the South with 
him in winter. 

The Placi'de, one block from Bay Street on Main, is very con- 
venient to the best stores, and is open the year round. It is kept by 
an experienced and highly-successful landlady, Mrs. N. L. Ward, 
and is universally praised. 

Good words may also be said of the New Duval, on Hogan 
Street, opposite the new post office, which is open through the 
summer and much patronized by business men. 

The Geneva and the St. JoJms are both one block from Bay 
Street, the former three blocks west, the latter one block east of 
Main Street. The Warner, on Laura Street, in the most beautiful 
residence portion of the city; and the Rose land, in the extreme 
eastern part of town, on the bank of the river, are home-like houses, 
to which the same guests return year after year. The River View 
is beyond the Viaduct, in the suburb of Riverside, on the river bank, 
and is a small but well-kept house, which runs a free omnibus to all 
trains. The Glenada, Ward House, Arlington, and several others 
are small hotels, not particularly notew^orthy. 

The principal boarding houses are: Mrs. Henderson's, on Main 
Street, near Monroe; Mrs. Slager's. a Jewish house, stylish and 
first class, but exclusively Hebraic; Mrs. Chapman's, next corner, 
north of the St. James, and taking its overflow; Mrs. McGowan's, 
Laura and Beaver streets; Mrs. Ochus', Ocean Street, two blocks 
from Bay; Mrs. Starke's, Forsyth and Laura; Mrs. Rich's, one 
block, west of the St. James; and Mrs. Flemings, on Monroe Street, 
three blocks from Bay, much patronized by young lawyers, on 
account of its nearness to the court house. All these houses are well 
kept, most of them with much elegance, and by refined ladies, and 
they are in all respects preferable to a small hotel. They are kept, 
however, more specially for local patronage, although almost any of 
them will admit a few winter visitors. Almost any comfortably 
established family will accommodate an invalid or a tourist who 
prefers the quiet of a private house to a hotel. Their rates are 
reasonable, seldom more than $7 per week, often but $5. The strict 
sanitary laws of the city compel such close attention to drainage, 
sewerage, etc., that almost without exception all private houses have 
all modern improvements of bath rooms, pure water, etc. 



138 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

Excursions and Amusements at Jacksonville, apart from the 
social pleasures, dancing, etc., around the hotels, are somewhat lim- 
ited. A few walks about the town suffice to show its prettiest streets 
and houses. A visit to the Subtropical Exhibition (open every 
second winter); an inspection of the curio shops, where there are ten 
articles from elsewhere for one characteristic of Florida ; and a half- 
hour at the water-works, which pump the city's supply from artesian 
wells, exhaust the " sights " of the city. Driving is indulged in to a 
considerable extent. Most of the streets have recently been paved 
with bricks, and several shell-roads radiate into the country. As the 
surroundings are onl)^ fiat, sandy forests of sparse pines and palmetto 
scrub, capable of little cultivation, there is nothing to interest the eye 
after the first acquaintance. An electric loop-line (fare for the round 
trip 5 cents, if notice is given to the conductor) passes out Main 
Street into the northern suburbs, and gives an idea of these after 
they have been denuded of their biggest pines. The south side of 
the river (South Jacksonville) is reached, half-hourly, by a ferry from 
the foot of Newman Street. There shell-roads may be followed in 
several directions, one leading to the highly-cultivated plantation, 
" Villa Alexandria," of Mrs. Alexander Mitchell, which can be visited 
by permission, and is an excellent example of what culture and 
wealth are able to produce in this favored climate. The house is not 
pretentious externally, but within is fitted up in an exceedingly 
beautiful and tasteful manner, making it notable among American 
homes. Horseback riding is looked upon with more favor than 
driving by many persons, since thus they can go upon the by-paths 
and wood-roads too sandy for wheeled vehicles. 

Boating, however, can be indulged in at Jacksonville to the top 
of one's bent, and the river is greatly frequented by sailboats, 
rowboats, and canoes all winter. 

Both sail and rowboats may be hired at the boat yard in the rear 
of the Yacht Club House, at the foot of Market Street; or from Garde- 
ner's, a few rods east at the same locality. Rowboats may be hired for 
25 cents for the first hour, or, 50 cents for three hours. A skilled and 
careful oarsman may be procured for 25 cents per hour additional. A 
sailboat rents for 75 cents for the first hour and 50 cents for every ad- 
ditional hour. A man for sailing and one for steering may be hired 
for 25 cents an hour each. Steam and naphtha launches, fully 
manned, may be rented for $1 an hour. The largest yacht is the 
*'Ogeechee," suitable for parties. 



FLORIDA. 139 

Excursions out of town maybe taken by both rail and river. 

(/.) To St. Augustine. Seep. 152. 

(2.) Up the River. See p. 140. 

(3.) Down the River. The Independent Line steamers go down 
the river to Mayport and Fort George Island and return, daily, call- 
ing at all landings. Mayport, near the mouth of the St. Johns, on 
the south side (pp. 16, 154), is the headquarters of salt-water fishing, 
turtling, etc. , and the hotel there is famous for its sea-food dinners. 
Mayport is also reached from its station opposite Jacksonville (by 
ferry) by a railroad, which also extends to Burnside Beach, where 
there are bathing facilities, restaurants, etc. 

(4.) To Pablo Beach. This is a magnificent strand directly east 
of Jacksonville, and reached by a railway running straight through 
the flatwoods from its station, at the ferry-landing in South Jackson- 
ville, to the ocean, seventeen miles east. This is a superb beach for 
driving, bathing, or shell -hunting; and there is an excellent hotel; 
but this beach, like that at Burnside, is a summer resort for the 
Florida people, and rarely visited in winter, because the winds are 
usually too cold and raw there to make the experience an agreeable 
one at that season. 

The St. Johns River. 

This great water-course, which drains the whole interior of Florida 
and affords navigation for large steamers for 220 miles above its 
mouth, forms a natural highway to the central and southern parts of 
Florida, and the earliest travel and settlement was along its banks, 
excepting a few military coast stations. It takes its rise in the 
marshes of Sawgrass Lake, which finds an outlet through the reeds 
some five miles south of Lake Washington, and is eight or ten miles 
west of the Indian River at Grant Station, on the East Coast Line 
(p. 1 80), and thence it flows northward nearly 400 miles to Jacksonville, 
where it suddenly turns east to the ocean. It expands into lakes 
at frequent intervals, of which the principal, from south to north, 
are Washington, Harney, Jessup, Monroe, Woodruff, and George, 
and below Palatka has a width often reaching four or five miles. 
The river is nowhere very deep, is much obstructed by shoals, and 
[often obscured by heavy night fogs, so that its navigation is 
attended with some danger in sailboats or without a pilot. Never- 
theless many sailing yachts do ascend as far as Palatka, beyond 
which the course is so narrow and tortuous and overhung with 

12 



140 



GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 



trees, that only steamboats can proceed successfully. Accurate and 
detailed charts can be purchased at the hydrographic office in 
Washington. 

Steamers on the St. Johns are fine large side-wheel boats, like 
those on the Hudson. They run during the winter months between 
Jacksonville and Sanford, 195 miles south, but not all boats go as 
fai as Sanford. During the summer only, small boats ply somewhat 
irregularly from point to point. 

The Clyde Line steamers leave from the foot of Hogan Street, 
Jacksonville, every day except Saturday, at 3.30 p. m., and reach 
Sanfoid early next morning. Returning, they leave^ Sanford at 
9.30 a. m., except Sunday, and reach Jacksonville in the evening, 
showing the passenger by daylight the upper and most interesting 
part of the river, which is passed in the night on the upward trip. 
These Clyde Line steamers are the " City of Jacksonville " and " Fred 
DeBary." The "John Sylvester," locally and fondly known as the 
"queen of the river," makes the same trip as far as Palatka, leav- 
ing from the foot of Laura Street. Other fine boats are the ' ' Gov- 
ernor Safford" and its sisters of the Beach & Miller Line ; while the 
Independent Line boats ply between Mayport, Jacksonville, andpoints 
as high as Palatka. All these are winter boats. If it is desirable to 
travel in only one direction by river, the down trip is preferable; and 
some time may usually be saved by going by railroad between Palatka 
and Jacksonville, overtaking or leaving the steamer at Palatka. It is 
to be noted that the fare does not include meals and stateroom or 
berth. The following is a list of pri7icipal landings, with distances 
from Jacksonville: 



EAST BANK. 

Miles. 

Mandarin 15 

New Switzerland 23 

Orange Dale 34 

Picolata... 44 

Tocoi 49 

Federal Point 58 

Orange Mills 63 

Hart's Orange Grove 75 

Rolleston 78 

Nashua f 5 

Welaka 100 

Beecher loi 



WEST BANK. 

Miles. 

Riverside 3 

Black Point 10 

Orange Park 15 

Hibernia ^ 23 

Magnolia - - _ 28 

Green Cove Springs-... 30 

Whetstone 68 

Palatka 75 

Buffalo Bluff - 87 

Horse Landing 94 

Fort Gates 106 

Drayton Island 116 



FLORIDA. 



141 



EAST BANK. 

Miles. 

Mt. Royal 105 

Fruitlands 105 

Orange Point 113 

Lake George 115 

Seville 120 

Lake View 132 

Volusia and Astor 134 

Bluffton 140 

De Land Landing 162 

Blue Spring 168 

Enterprise... 198 



WEST BANK. 

Miles. 

Salt Springs 119 

Benella 120 

Yellow Blulf 121 

Manhattan 136 

Fort Butler 138 

St. Francis 155 

Old Town 156 

Hawkinsville 160 

Monroe 187 

Sanford , 193 

Mellonville.. 195 



The River Trip, beginning at Jacksonville, carries you around 
Grassy Point, with Lancaster Point opposite, and quickly out of sight 
of the city, after which the course is south up the middle of the river, 
here so wide that the banks appear only as a low gray margin to the 
expanse of water. They are broken by two or three headlands, one 
of which, Piney, is distinguished by its tall pines; just above it is Black 
Point, on the west bank, and a few miles beyond that, but on the left, 
is Beauclerc Bluff, a heavily-wooded promontory. Two miles more 
bring the steamer to Mandarin, the first regular landing, noticeable 
only as one of the oldest settlements in the State and the former 
winter home of Harriet Beecher Stowe, author of " Uncle Tom's 
Cabin;" her house has been pulled down. The long wharf of Orange 
Park, nearly opposite, reaches out to the channel; this is a pleasant 
village on the " Key West " Railroad (p. 186), having in The Marion 
($3) a large winter hotel. New Switzerland is next passed on the 
left, and on the right the island- village of Hibernia. The stream is 
here nearly two miles wide, opening east into Fruit Cove, and west 
into the estuary of Black Creek, which is navigable (by a weekly 
steamer) as far (8 m.) as Middleburg. The land south of Black Creek 
forms a high, heavily-wooded promontory called Magnolia Point, 
opposite which are Popo Point and the settlements of Orangedale 
and Remington Park. On the farther (southern) side of Magnolia 
Point, the white hotels and houses of Magnolia and Green Cove 
Springs appear, and the steamer calls at the first named. 

Magnolia Springs is the name of a large hote' and group of cot- 
tages, occupied only in winter, close upon the riverside and one 
and one-half miles north of Green Cove. It also has a railway station 
connected with the hotel by a short tramway, passing through beau- 



142 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

tiful grounds containing a mineral spring, an orange grove, and mag- 
nificent magnolias. A steam launch and many boats are at the ser- 
vice of guests, who derive much pleasure from the river and from 
fishing. The spring not only provides a supply of drinking-water, 
but supplies baths and a swimming-pool; and the water is bottled 
and sold far and near. The new paved tennis courts are the scene 
of annual local tournaments. A dancing and entertainment hall 
adjoin the hotel. Good shooting can be had in the neighborhood in 
season, and excursions may be made to Governor's and Black Creek, 
while a shaded path called DavicVs Walk, connecting the hotel 
with Green Cove, through Borden Park, invites to a pleasant ramble 
along the river bank. Magnolia claims an entire absence of mos- 
quitoes — a claim which, as far as the present writer is aware, is not 
made for any other locality in the State of Florida; and the dryness 
of the surrounding region recommends this district for consumptives. 
This hotel, which has open fireplaces, electric lights, and all modern 
arrangements, can arrange for 300 guests at $3 to $5 a day, and 
calls particular attention to its table service. 

Green Cove Springs (pop., 1,500; Clarendon, 200 guests, $3; 
St. Elmo, $3; St. Clair, $3; Lochmore, special rates) is one of the 
oldest and pleasantest of the wintering places in the St. Johns Val- 
ley. It is a station on the Jacksonville, Tampa & Key West Rail- 
way, thirty miles south of Jacksonville, and the terminus of a short 
branch line reaching southwest into the lake district and connect- 
ing with the Georgia Southern Rd. at Newburg; by this road is 
reached the flourishing new town of Melrose, the Melrose Inn ($2), 
and neighboring places. Green Cove Springs has churches, street 
cars, electric light, shell roads, and all the belongings of a well- 
conducted village, and the hotels are numerous and attractive. 

The central feature of the place is the wonderful sj)rzng, dis- 
charging 3,000 gallons of water a minute, from which the place takes 
its name. The pool is green, clear as crystal, slightly sulphurous 
(which speedily disappears by evaporation), and keeps a uniform tem- 
perature of 78'' Fahr. Excellent arrangements for bathing have been 
provided, and " a swim" in the open pools can be taken with pleas- 
ure on almost any winter day. The inclosure of a bathing-pool with 
glass is one of the improvements proposed here for the coming year. 
The Clarendon, the principal hotel, which can provide for 200 
guests, fronts upon Spring Park, and can supply hot sulphur baths 
within the house. The Hotel St. Elmo overlooks the river. Excur- 
sions from Green Cove Springs can be made in many directions. 
One of the nearest is to Governor's Creek, whose windings, easily 



FLORIDA. 14-3 

followed in a boat, are romantic and ver>' pretty. "Borden Park, 
including about live acres, lies along the river on high ground, with 
its native growth of magnolia, live oak, and palmetto, the rubbish 
only having been cleared away. It is private property, but open to 
the public. Much ingenuity has been displayed in the adaptation of 
natural tree trunks for fences, gate posts, tree seats, and the like." 
This is one of the many fine winter homes that have clustered about 
this pretty locality, which is also extremely conveniently situated as 
to general lines of travel and for short excursions to many interesting 
places, especially by river. 

The River above Green Cove is broad and placid, the view 
closed in by Old Field Point on the west and San Patricio Point 
opposite. The latter incloses Hogarth's Bay, southward, into which 
comes Six Mile Creek, beyond which the banks contract to the 
narrows at Pico I at a, where the Spanish built a fort, with a second 
on the opposite bank, to guard the ascent of the river against their 
enemies, and to protect their supply stations and a large Franciscan 
mission. Traces of them remain. They were successfully defended 
against the English under Oglethorpe, in December, 1739, but were 
taken in January following, preliminary to the siege of St. Augus- 
tine (p. 168). During the Seminole War it was a temporary military 
post, commanded by Lieut, (afterward General) W. T. Sherman. 
All along the river bank near here are good plantations, but a short 
distance back begin the flat, almost worthless, pine barrens. Beyond 
Picolata Point the river expands again, and the steamer takes a 
straight course for ten miles to Federal Point. Half-way there, on 
the east bank, is Tocoi Creek and Tocoi, the terminus of a 
railroad to St. Augustine, eighteen miles directly east. This was 
the first railroad to St. Augustine, but it is not now operated except 
in winter. Opposite is the railway station of West Tocoi, on the ' ' Key 
West " road. At Federal Point orange groves begin to be seen on 
the river bank, about Orange Mills and beyond. The river now 
bends to the right around Bodine's Point on the right, then turns 
south around Forrester's Point on the^left, and exposes to view the 
spires and wharves, three miles ahead, of Palatka. 

Palatka (pop., 5,000; Putnam House, 400 guests, $4; St. George, 
I2; Graham, $2.50; Boyd, special rates) is one of the oldest and now 
the largest town in Central Florida. It is at the head of sailing navi- 
gation on the river, and is the point of departure for up-river, 
Ocklawaha, and Crescent City steamboats. It is also a central 
point for several railways. Here comes the Jacksonville, Tampa & 



144 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

Key West Rd. along the west bank of the river from Jacksonville 
(55 m.), and passes thence to the southwestern part of the State. 
This is also the terminus of the Georgia Southern & Florida Rd. 
bringing trains and sleeping cars from the North (Route 23), via 
Valdosta, Ga. , Lake City, and the lake district. A railway to the 
west (the Florida Southern) connects with the Florida Central & Pen- 
insular for the west coast; and the East Coast Line connects it with 
St. Augustine and the Indian River region. 

Palatka is the county seat of Putnam, is well laid out, has paved 
and well-shaded streets, electric lights, street cars, well-built wharves, 
a great bridge, railway repair shops, fruit and thriving business 
houses, with churches, schools, etc., proper to a flourishing town 
where outfits can be bought. It occupies a high, dry plateau, in the 
midst of a fine agricultural region, abounding in fruit and vegetable 
farms, exporting their products largely to Northern markets; and has 
a history which goes back to the days before the Seminole War when 
a trading-post was established here, which the Indians sacked in 
1835. It was at once made a headquarters for troops, and forti- 
fied with a series of blockhouses. Large cavalry stables stood upon 
the site of the Putnam House, and an extensive hospital was built. 
Generals Zachary Taylor, Winfield Scott, W. J. Worth, E. P. Gaines, 
and others already famous were present, and several young officers 
who became very famous later. The post was discontinued at the 
end of the Indian wars, but settlers remained, and Palatka became 
a shipping point, and, after the Civil War, a winter resort, to which 
it owes its present prosperity in a large degree, and which doubles its 
population from December to April. 

The hotels are numerous. The largest is the Putnam House, 
which occupies a whole square in the center of the town, its windows 
commanding wide views of the river. It has accommodations for 
400 guests, is furnished with all modern requirements of a first-class 
hotel, has apartments en suite, croquet and lawn-tennis courts, and 
an abundant supply of water from the Palatka Heights Spring. 

The amusements at Palatka are such as are provided by the hotels 
and the village, together with the opportunities for sailing and row- 
ing on the river, and the exploration of its tributaries. 

' ' The condition of the water in the St. Johns is different from 
that of any stream with which I am familiar," says Roosevelt. 
" Even as high up as Palatka the surface water is absolutely fresh, 
while near the bottom there is a current so salt that crabs are caught 
in the shad nets. The Salter fluid seems to be denser and heavier 
than the other, and will not mingle with it, so that we have the 
anomaly of both fresh and salt water fish being caught at the same 
time and place. 




ENTERING THE OKLAWAHA RIVER FROM THE ST. JOHN'S. 



FLOklDA. 145 

' ' Into the St. Johns there empty at every few miles tributary 
streams that are rarely ascended by the visiting sportsman, and 
where the birds and fish exist in their primeval abundance and fear- 
lessness. It is unnecessary to specify these by name, or to particu- 
larize any as better than others, for they are essentially alike." 

A favorite boating trip is to Harfs Grove of orange trees, seventy 
acres in extent, four miles above town on the east bank of the river. 
These trees, grafted upon wild fruit, began to bear about 1845, and 
have since produced fine fruit. Driving and walking are not pleasur- 
able because of the sandy roads, but horseback riding is largely in- 
dulged and well provided for by the livery stables. 

Excursions from Palatka begin with the time-honored trip up the 
Ocklawaha River, which should be missed by no one. Fine little 
stern-wheel boats have replaced the ruder ones of years ago, and 
every comfort is provided. The Ocklawaha boats leave Palatka daily 
at noon, and reach the terminus, Silver Spring, next morning ; the 
return trip shows by daylight the part passed in darkness on the 
up trip. Three hours is expended in ascending the St. Johns to the 
mouth of the river, which comes in from the southwest, draining 
Lake Griffin, near Leesburg. 

" The scenery immediately changes when the mouth of the river is 
entered. The channel is narrow and tortuous in the extreme, and 
winds through a dense cypress swamp. The giant trees on each side 
meet and interlace overhead, and the route among them seems more 
like entering and traversing a forest aisle. The whole trip is most 
interesting, but becomes especially so after dark, when the pathway 
of the steamer is illuminated by the dancing glow of a light-wood fire 
suspended in iron fire-pans or cages on the corners of the pilot-house. 
These are constantly fed with resinous or ' fat ' pine-knots. The 
effect of this glaring flame, bursting out of blackest darkness, is 
impossible to describe. The glinting water, the giant trees, the over- 
hanging, dreary-looking moss, the very emblem of desolation, the 
fantastic forms of twisted water-oaks, the glimpses of lazy-looking 
alligators, the cry of birds startled by the light — all combine to make 
an experience that may be counted an event in any life. About mid- 
night the boat passes through ' The Gateway of the Ocklaw^aha,' as 
it is called. This is formed by two immense cypress trees, growing 
so close to each other that scarcely room is left to allow the boat to 
pass. About daylight the boat turns suddenly to the right, and the 
celebrated Silver Spring Run is entered. Here the stream becomes 
a river 100 feet in width, and runs with a swift current, against which 
these diminutive steamers make laborious way for nine miles. The 
' Run ' is the crowning marvel of the river. Its waters are so clear that 
it can be compared to nothing but a river of glass with emerald banks. 
Its bottom is of white sand, and so transparent are its waters that 
10 



146 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

mosses and grasses growing on the bottom, loo feet below, can be 
seen distinctly. As they move in the current, it is difficult to dispel 
the delusion that they are waving in the wind." 

This spring is an outburst of hard water from fissures in the lime- 
stone, which delivers daily a hundred times as much water as the 
.daily supply of New York City, and forms a deep river loo feet wide. 
It should be examined in a boat; a small steamboat cruises upon 
it, and down the "run" of the Ocklawaha, giving a view of the wild 
jungle. The Silver Springs Hotel ($3) is a fine hostelry in a pretty 
village which has long been a favorite winter residence. It is a 
railway station six miles east of Ocala (p. 208), and is reached from 
Palatka via Hawthorne Junction. 

Crescent Lake and City are the object of another excursion by 
steamboat from Palatka. Dunn's Creek, a crooked, tree-bordered 
stream, is entered about six miles above Palatka, and after eight 
miles the steamboat emerges into Crescent Lake, sixteen miles long 
by three wide. Crescent City is a pretty town of about 600 inhabit- 
ants on the western shore, with the small Lake Stella in the rear. A 
stage runs to a near-by station of the Key West Rd., twenty-one 
miles south of Palatka. This peninsula-like area between Crescent 
Lake and the St. Johns, known as Fruztland, is a tract of high 
fertile land, thickly occupied by farmers who entertain many winter 
guests. 

The Upper St. Johns, from Palatka southward, increases in 
picturesque interest with each stage of advance. It is narrow, tor- 
tuous and strange, and should be seen by daylight, though a night 
trip, illuminated by the powerful search -lights of the steamers, is an 
entertaining experience. 

' ' One passes for miles along grand forests of cypresses robed in 
moss or mistletoe, or palms towering gracefully far above the sur- 
rounding palmetto trees whose rich trunks gleam in the sun; of 
white and black ash, magnolia, water-oak, poplar, and plane trees, 
and, where the hummocks rise a few feet above the water level, the 
sweet bay, olive, cotton tree, juniper, red cedar, sweet gum, and the 
live oak shoot up their splendid stems; while among the shrubbery 
and inferior growths one may note the azalea, sumach, sensitive 
plant, agave, poppy, mallow, and the nettle." 

The windings are followed past Hart's Grove and RoUeston; 
through the Key West Com.pany's railway bridge at Buffalo Bluff; 
past the mouth of the Ocklawaha, opposite Welaka (McClure House, 
$3), and Beecher; along the expansion, at Orange Point, called 



FLORIDA. 147 

Little Lake George ; and by Mount Royal to old Fort Gates, at the 
outlet of Lake George. 

This stretch of river was a favorite haunt of the aborigines, and 
afterward by the Spaniards. Mount Royal was settled by English 
farmers, who went away when Spain regained the country ; and 
many old orange groves here claim origin from Spanish seedlings. 
Fort Gates was a military station during the Seminole War. 

Lake George is about eighteen miles long by nine wide, the 
resort of wild fowl and bordered with orange groves. Near the 
mouth is Drayton Island, which contains nearly 1,900 acres, and is 
the scene of remarkably successful fruit farming. It receives the 
waters of Lake Kerr, a very pretty body of water a few miles west, 
through Salt Springs Creek; and there is a landing (Salt Spring Val- 
ley), on the western shore, for the many orange-growers and winter 
boarders scattered about that region. On the eastern side are 
Wright's and Seville landings, on the " Fruitland" peninsula. 

The lake shore seems to form a completely closed bank of forest 
across the northern end, but the pilot steers into the hidden opening 
and the boat is again in the narrow St. Johns River. 

Two miles above the head of the lake is Astor, the river terminus 
of^the St. Johns & Lake Eustis Railroad which extends southward 
to Eustis (p. 207; steamboats on Lake Eustis), Leesburg, Tavares, 
and other points in the lake district, running one daily train each 
way to connect with the boats. Opposite Astor is Volusia, the site 
of a Spanish mission and of an American fort during the Seminole 
War. This way came the old road from St. Augustine to Mos- 
quito Inlet, and here was the most prominent crossing-place for 
overland travel to Tampa and the west. The uplands eastward 
of the river, traversed by the Key West Railroad, are highly culti- 
vated, especially about the flourishing little town of Seville, which 
was the locality of Spanish attempts at agriculture, and has a 
fine hotel (The Seville, $3.50) in the midst of orange plantations. 
It can also be reached from Seville Landing on Lake George. 
Ten miles above Astor the western end of the large irregular Lake 
Dexter is crossed, and ten miles farther the steamer reaches 
De Land Landing, where a spur of the railroad comes down to the 
water and leads three miles inland to De Land, which is at its termi- 
nus, five miles from Beresford. 

De Land (pop., 2,500; College Arms, $3; Parceland, $3; Put- 
nam, $2.50; Carrollton $2) is the capital of Volusia, and as this is a 



148 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

large county, filled with an enterprising, rapidly-increasing people, 
and hundreds of orange groves, there is a considerable business 
done here, as well as excellent arrangements for winter visitors. 

Volusia County comprises the country between the St. Johns 
and the Atlantic, from Lake George to below Lake Harney. Its 
population is 12,000, who are taxed upon a valuation of $4,000,000, 
regarded as about one-third of the true worth of the property con- 
cerned. There is no bonded indebtedness; and the county owns a 
fine brick court house worth $20,000; a jail, costing $9,000; and the 
poor house, $4,000. It is one of the foremost in orange growing; 
and is especially favored by a long north and south central ridge of 
high, dry pine lands, upon which De Land and Lake Helen stand, 
and to which they owe their high reputation for healthfulness. 

De Land is a handsome, active, well-built town of some 2,500 
population, having artesian water, paved streets, electric lights, etc., 
and good churches and schools. Most of the houses are built of 
brick, and include commodious blocks of stores and several costly 
residences of wealthy Northern men. 

This is the site of the Stetson University, founded in 1887 as a 
school of broad collegiate instruction for both sexes. The university 
has fine buildings, heated by steam and lighted by electricity, on a 
campus six acres in extent, and is well furnished in respect to instruc- 
tors, books, and apparatus of all kinds; as a consequence, it draws 
pupils not only from Florida, but includes representatives of nearly 
all the more northern States, whose health requires the warmer and 
dryer climate which De Land affords. This university, founded by 
John B. Stetson, of Philadelphia, tends to sustain the high social 
and intellectual status of the village. It may be said, in passing, 
that there has not been a liquor saloon here or elsewhere in Volusia 
County in many years. The neighborhood of De Land has several 
places of note. The St. Johns River and Dexter Lake are easily 
accessible for boating and fishing. Lake Helen (see below) is only 
six miles southeast; Lake Beresford and Blue Lake nearer. 

De Leon Spring, six miles north, is a spring gushing up with 
such strength that it was formerly used as water power for a sugar 
mill, whose ruins form a picturesque feature of a favorite picnicking 
place. At Spring Garden, near by, many of the farmers are mak- 
ing a serious effort at raising silk- worms and reeling the silk. Both 
these places are stations on the Key West Railway, and have small 
hotels and boarding-houses. 

Continuing the voyage up the St. Johns River, six miles above 
De Land Landing, brings the voyager to Blue Springs (the railway 
station is Orange City Junction), where there is a mineral spring, 
bluish in color, so copious that a steamboat may ascend its outflow 
and float in the spring itself, an eighth of a mile or more back from 



FLORIDA. 149 

the river. There is a small hotel here, as this is the terminus of a 
branch of the East Coast Line, which runs hence to New Smyrna 
(p. 175), Eight miles east on this road is 

Lake Helen, a pretty piece of deep, pure water, connected with 
other ponds upon a ridge sixty feet above sea-level, covered with pine 
woods. Its healthy and beautiful situation has accumulated there 
a village of people who are widely interested in the culture of oranges, 
peaches, and grapes, all of which thrive exceedingly. This and the 
climate have attracted a numerous winter population, who regard 
the place as a valuable sanitarium. 

"Its position in the pine forest belt (and a peculiar and unique 
feature of the town is that acres of the pine trees have been left 
standing throughout the center of the place) gives to Lake Helen a 
climate excellent and perfect for residence the year around, being 
entirely free from malaria, temperate in winter, equable, healthful, 
and invigorating. The atmosphere is redolent and balmy with the 
odor of the pine, free from humidity, impregnated with ozone, and 
highly conducive to health. It affords an ideal piney-woods resort 
for the winter sojourner, and a healthful and attractive residence for 
the homeseeker. The place has two very comfortable, home-like 
hotels: The Harlan ($3), modern and attractive in all its features, 
situated upon an eminence overlooking the lake and surrounded by 
an extensive pine park; and the ' Southland,' a smaller, but pleasant 
hotel, beautifully situated." 

It should be noted that this neighborhood, like that of De Land, 
affords excellent shooting eastwardly for game birds, especially quails 
and turkeys in abundance, and such large game as deer and wild- 
cats. Guides and camping outfits may be procured, but the sports- 
man should fully inform himself as to the game laws, which are 
strictly enforced in this part of the State. It is also well to give a 
word of warning in respect to poisonous sjiakes, two or three spe- 
cies of which, related to the rattlesnake, make it advisable to watch 
one's footsteps in walking about or in poking one's way up narrow 
streams where there are overhanging bushes. This caution applies 
to all parts of Florida, and to some parts more than to this county 
— and it is true that their numbers and the fatal effects of snake 
poison have been exaggerated ; enough of fact remains, however, to 
teach a wise caution on the part or the sportsman and rambler. 

A further voyage up the narrowing river amid a tropical jungle of 
trees and vines, through which Wekiva Creek steals lazily in from the 
southwest, soon brings us to the end of the steamboat journey in 
Lake Monroe, at the entrance to which is the village of Monroe, 
the Key West Railway crosses on its way to Sanford (see below). 
Monroe is also the terminus of the ' ' Cotton Belt " line of the Plant 



150 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

System (p. i86). Enterprise is within sight of the steamer, ahead 
on the left, and Sanford, somewhat more distantly, on the right. 

Lake Monroe is a nearly circular sheet of water, about six miles 
in diameter, filled with fish, of which the bass is especially notable, 
and the resort of innumerable wild fowl. Its shores are fertile, but 
not generally cultivated as yet. On the northeastern side of the 
lake is the lively, energetic village of Enterprise (pop., 150; Brock, 
$3.50; Live Oak, $2), which is actively engaged in the fruit trade, 
and at the same time is a popular resort for invalids. The Brock 
House here has a long established reputation for excellence in meet- 
ing the requirements of visitors whose health must be carefully pro- 
vided for. Green Spring, near town, is worth attention. Enterprise 
is upon the Titusville branch of the Jacksonville, Tampa & Key West 
Railway, which leaves the main line at Enterprise Junction, near 
the foot of Lake Monroe, and, passing around it, takes a south- 
easterly course through the pines to the shore of Indian River, and a 
terminus at Titusville. Its station at Aurantia gives easy access to 
Lake Harney. Mims and La Grange are on the Indian River, near 
Titusville, for which see p. 177. The distance from Jacksonville to 
the Indian River by this route, by river to Enterprise (198 m.) and 
thence by rail to Titusville, is 235 miles; by all rail, 159 miles. 

Sanford (pop., 2,500; Sanford, $3.50; Sirrine, $2; San Leon, 
$2.50) is the terminus of the regular river steamers, which cannot 
find sufficient water to float them above Lake Monroe. It is the 
southern terminus of the Jacksonville, Tampa & Key "West Railroad 
(125 m. from Jacksonville), and the eastern terminus of the Plant 
System's lines to the Lake District, Tampa Bay, and South Florida 
(see p. 187). The town is an outgrowth of the settlement made 
here by Gen. H. S. Sanford soon after the Civil War. 

" The surrounding land was an old Spanish grant, and belonged, 
in 1870, to Gen. Joseph Finegan, an ex-officer of the Confederacy. 
From him General Sanford purchased the entire estate (known as the 
Old Levy Grant) of twenty -three square miles. At that time there 
was on the lake shore an insignificant hamlet called Mellonville, after 
Captain Mellon, U. S. A., who was killed here in an engagement 
with the Seminoles. General Sanford*s early attempts to introduce 
organized labor, whether white or black, were resisted by force of 
arms, but he soon became strong enough to defy the prejudices of 
the scattered population, and the result is apparent in the present 
prosperity of the place. A large number of Swedes were imported, 
with their families, and they now form a prosperous part of the com- 
munity. ^Belair, three miles south of Sanford, and easily reached by 



FLORIDA. 161 

rail or carriage road, is one of the largest and most famous planta- 
tions in the State. It is the property of General Sanford, who began 
operations on a large scale soon after his purchase of the Levy Grant. 
The grove contains ninety-five acres of oranges and fifty acres of 
lemons, with a large experimental farm, where all kinds of exotics are 
tested under the best possible conditions for ascertaining their 
adaptability to the Florida climate." 

Sanford is the principal town of South Florida and the gateway 
and distributing point for Orange County, which has recently become 
prominent not only as a winter residence, but as a region for agricul- 
tural and fruit-raising enterprises. It is well located for both pleas- 
ure and health; its sanitary condition is described as perfect ; it has 
a fine water-works system, good streets, churches, schools, electric 
lights, well-supplied stores, banks, and all the evidences of thrift. In 
the neighborhood are many noted orange groves, such as the Belair, 
Beck, Hughey, Randolph, Speer, and Whitner. Sportsmen regard it 
as one of the most favorable regions in Florida. There are several 
hotels and boarding-houses, of which the foremost is the Sanford 
House, one of the largest and most conspicuous winter hotels in 
Florida. It can entertain 200 guests at once, and has large rooms, 
with an open fire-place in each; the house is also heated by steam. 
The hotel stands in the midst of park-like grounds upon the lake shore, 
and has full arrangements for boating, bathing, and all the amuse- 
ments. 

Sanford is the point of departure by boat for the sources of the 
St. Johns and by several railway routes to all parts of South 
Florida. 

The St. Johns above Lake Monroe is navigable for only small 
craft, because so shallow, tortuous, and overhung with trees and 
vines. In winter a small steamer makes tri-weekly trips to Lake 
Harney, requiring about twelve hours to go and return. Steam 
bunches may be hired at any time for this purpose. 

•'The river winds for the most part among vast stretches of 
savannah and saw grass, occasionally spreading into large lakes, as 
Harney, Jessup, Poinsett, Winder, and Washington. It is often a 
very difficult matter to decide which is the true river channel, but 
when found the stream is easily navigable and the upper lakes are 
so near the Indian River at Rockledge and Eau Gallic that carries 
are easily made across the intervening hammock. The upper St. 
Johns should not be attempted save in a boat that will serve as a 
sleeping- place at a pinch, for there are often long stretches of morass 
where it is impossible to camp comfortably on shore." 



152 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

The East Coast of Florida. 

St. Augustine, the Indian River, and the southeast coast of Florida 
form one of the oldest, best known, and most interesting districts of 
the State. Until recent years they have been accessible only by 
water, or by a combination of river and rail transportation, at great 
loss of time and money. During the present decade, however, a con- 
tinuous, thoroughly organized system of railway has been extended 
down this coast to Lake Worth; and this is being advanced, so that 
by the spring of 1896, trains will be running regularly to Biscayne 
Bay (366 m.), whence steamships, then or soon after, will run to Key 
West, and perhaps to the Bahamas and Cuba. This railway system 
is that formerly known as the Jacksonville, St. Augustine & Indian 
River Railway, but now as the Florida East Coast Line. 

Jacksonville to St. Augustine. 

The train, yellow in color, leaves the Union depot in Jacksonville 
at 9.00 a. m. daily, reaching the terminus in twelve hours. There is 
also an afternoon train for St. Augustine. It turns south through 
the manufacturing part of the city, and moves out upon the great 
bridge which spans the St. Johns; this is 1,320 feet long, built of 
steel, has a "draw" 320 feet long, and was opened to traffic in 1889. 

The control of the railroad between Jacksonville and St. Augustine 
was necessary to Mr. Flagler if he were to carry out, without 
unnecessary expense, his great schemes of building and improve- 
ment at St. Augustine. When these were accomplished, and it 
became desirable to induce a through traffic from the North direct 
to St. Augustine, it became necessary to bridge the St. Johns in 
order to carry the cars across the river. Such was the origin of the 
railway development along the east coast which has grown up and 
remains under the general care of Henry M. Flagler. 

South Jacksonville, at the southern end of the bridge, is an 
attractive village of perhaps 1,000 people. Some manufacturing has 
begun — notably a factory for the preparation of fertilizers from 
crude Florida phosphates. The old King's Highway, built by 
the English military Governor in 1765, is the main street, and 
appears at the left of the station. Mixed woods and scattered 
houses and gardens are soon passed, and the road enters the flat 
pine woods, broken now and then by hammocks, and takes a mathe- 
matically straight course to its destination. There is little apparent 
occupation, for the land is poor (though said to be good for grape- 




13 




. pTHE M-N 



THE ONLY LINE TO THE 



Great Hotels of the East Coast, and the 
Famous Orange Groves, Pineapple Plan- 
tations, Cocoanut Groves, and Vegetable 
Farms of the Country tributary to 

Imdian l^iver, Lake Worth, and B'scayne Bay 

JOSEPH RICHARDSON, 

General Passenger Agent ST. AUGUSTINE. 



FLORIDA, 163 

culture), and the timber of small account. Thirty-five miles south- 
west of the bridge, a surprising vision of towers and foliage comes 
into view, and the train rolls into the picturesque station of the 
"Ancient City." 

The City and History of St. Augustine. 

St. Augustine (pop., 4,000). Ponce de Leon, 700 guests, $5; 
Cordova, 400 guests, $3.50; Alcazar, 350 guests, $4; San Marco, 450 
guests, $4; Magnolia, 250 guests, $3.50; Florida, 200 guests, $3.50; 
St. George, 150 guests, $3.; Columbia, 100 guests, $2.50; Valencia, 
100 guests, $2.50; Barcelona, 75 guests, $2.50; Lorillard Villa, 50 
guests, $2.50; Lynn's, 100 guests, $3; Ocean View, 75 guests, $1.50. 
The first nine are open only in winter, the last four all the year. 

St. Augustine is the gem of Florida and one of the most interest- 
ing places in the United States. Though Santa Fe, N. M., founded 
by the Spaniards amid the enduring structures of an aboriginal town 
in 1540, is able to dispute successfully with it the claim to be the 
oldest continuous civilized community in the United States, its origin 
goes back far beyond that of any settlement on the eastern coast, 
and its history is filled with a romance that belongs to few, if any, 
other localities where European rivals contended for colonial mastery 
in the New World. The architectural relics and racial traces that 
remain of this varied and thrilling history give a distinctly foreign 
character to what has been an English and American (but always, 
until lately, isolated) town for more than a century; and these have 
been so tastefully kept in view and conformed to by the wise judg- 
ment that has lately regenerated the village, that St. Augustine 
retains in its new development the charm that made it formerly so 
peculiarly attractive. What anywhere else in the Eastern United 
States would be an almost offensive affectation in architecture and 
naming, is here poetic and fitting. 

The city occupies a narrow, southward-reaching peninsula between 
the harbor and San Sebastian River, a site admirable for defense as 
well as for commerce, and the former consideration was more in the 
eyes of the old military settlers than the latter. The San Sebastian 
is useful for boating in a small, safe way, and for quiet fishing. A 
short walk beyond the railway station takes the pedestrian to the 
bridge, where he may cast a successful line for sheepshead and 
smaller fry. The harbor is formed by the confluence, in a bay some- 
thing over a mile wide, of North or Tolomato River and Matanzas 



154 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

River, separated from the Atlantic by North Beach and St. Anastasia 
Island. These rivers are supplied with the ebb and fliDw of the tide 
through St. Augustine Inlet, which will admit only vessels of less 
than ten feet draught. 

Places of Interest in St. Augustine. 

Objects of interest in St. Augustine center about The Plaza, 
which forms a quadrangular park on the waterfront protected 
against high tides and easterly gales by a substantial . sea-wall, 
built by the United States Government in 1835-42, and now affording 
a favorite promenade when the tide is high enough to hide the malo- 
dorous mud along its externai base. 

This wall, three-quarters of a mile long, ten feet high, and three 
feet thick, was preceded by an earlier wall extending from the 
Castle to the Plaza, on a line somewhat inland of the present one. 
The records tell us that the soldiers volunteered their labor and con- 
tributed part of their pay toward its construction, perceiving its 
necessity to the safety and comfort of their low-lying camps. 

The Plaza was left as an open space in the center of the canton- 
ment, as is the arrangement in most towns which have the advan- 
tage of being platted before the huddling of buildings together has 
gone too far. It was, indeed, designed as a military parade ground, 
and was bare of trees until recently, although previous to that there 
was an era when it was well shaded by orange trees. It was also 
the market place; but the open-sided building, often called (errone- 
ously and foolishly) the " slave pen," was not built until 1840, when 
the English were in possession of the country, and had begun to 
raise country produce and beef cattle. The original shed was des- 
troyed by fire in 1887, and has been restored as a shady lounging 
place for idlers. The only early attempt to ornament the parade 
seems to have been the erection here, in 1813, of the monument, still 
standing, to commemorate the passage by the Spanish Cortes of the 
new and liberal constitution of 181 2. 

This monument, which is an obelisk of coquina, surmounted by a 
cannon ball upon a square pedestal, was ordered removed by King 
Ferdinand, who did his best to nullify the new constitution, but the 
Floridians simply took away and hid the inscribed tablets, and, in 
1818, restored them to their place. These tablets bear the following 
(translated) inscription; 



FLORIDA 155 

Plaza of the Constitution 

Promulgated in this City of St. Augustine, in East Florida, October 17, 1812, 
the Brigadier Don Sebastian Kindalem, Knight of the Order of Santiago, being 
Governor. 

For Eternal Remembrance 

the Constitutional City Council erected this Monument, under the direction of 
Don Fernando de la Maza Arredondo, Jr., Senior Magistrate, and Don Francisco 
Robira, Attorney for the Crown, 

In the Year 1813. 

This is a curious memorial to find upon North American soil; and 
no less curious, by contrast with each other, were the scenes on this 
square, first, in 1776, when the English people assembled to burn in 
effigy the signers of the Declaration of Independence; and second, in 
1865, when the people gathered to listen contentedly to the reading, 
on the Fourth of July, of that same document, in token that the 
Union was still unbroken. It is not so much the deeds done here as 
the curious diversity of sentiments, persons, and movements sug- 
gested by it that make this old square one of the most interesting 
spots m the New World. The Plaza is now beautifully shaded with 
trees, among which the palms are noticeable, and also has a monu- 
ment to the citizens " who gave their lives in the service of the Con- 
federate States." 

The Plaza opens eastwardly upon Marine Street and the sea-wall. 
On the south side are shops and Trinity Protestant Episcopal Church, 
along the old King Street, now broadened and beautified westwardly 
into the Alameda. The western end of the Plaza is bounded by St. 
George Street, and faced by the post office, in a low stone building 
on the site of the former " governor's mansion; " and on the northern 
side are shops, including the larger curio-bazars, and the Roman 
Catholic Church of St. Joseph, which gives its name to Cathedral 
Street. This is not a very large nor imposing building, and is a res- 
toration • of that ruined by fire in 1887. That building was erected 
tmder the direction of Spanish Franciscan priests, in 1701; but it had 
a humbler predecessor dating back to 1682, if the date on one of the 
bells, which is inscribed Sancte . Joseph . Or a . pro . Nobis . 16S2, 
may be accepted as the time of the foundation. It is of the simple 
style of architecture common in Spanish America, the fagade being 
surmounted by a diminishing wall, terminating in a cross, and 
pierced by apertures in which hang four bells, reached from the 
rear by a wooden balcony. There is little to reward curiosity in the 
interior of the church, which was no doubt far more richly furnished 



1 56 G UWE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TES. 

in the early days than now. The bishop's residence adjoins it in the 
rear, facing on St. George Street. 

North and south from the Plaza are regions of the old town, dis- 
tinguished by narrow streets and remnants of the high walls which 
once jealously protected every man's house and garden ; but this 
interesting area has been greatly diminished of late years by new 
buildings and by fires, and many a precious landmark is gone. ' ' One 
by one the overhanging balconies are disappearing from the streets," 
laments Mr. Reynolds ; ' ' high stone walls are replaced by picket 
fences and wire netting ; moss-roofed houses have given way to 
smart shops ; lattice gates are displaced by show windows." This is 
sadly true, and is a source of disappointment to many visitors who 
have had their expectations raised by unwise laudation and unfounded 
history to the anticipation of something altogether unreasonable— an 
American town as foreign as Castile itself, and as romantic as " Arab}, 
the blest." As a matter of fact there are fewer persons of Spanish 
descent here than in many other Florida towns, the dark-skinned 
men and women seen being usually the descendants of the Minorcans, 
who were brought here from New Smyrna (p. 174) about 1776, and 
who combine the blood of nearly every nationality that ancientl}' 
flourished along both shores of the Mediterranean and found in the 
Balearic Isles a refuge for their strays of both sexes. Nevertheless 
much remains in St. Augustine that is quaint as well as pretty. 

"Walking southward along the narrow alley of St. George Street 
you pass a sheltered garden on the left, where there is a convent of 
nuns whose lace-making is famous, cross the narrow Bridge Street, 
pass the Presbyterian church, and presently come to the end at St. 
Frajicis Street, which has been so called since the Franciscan monks 
came here, in 1592, and organized Indian missions. Their monastery 
or chapter house, built before 1650, largely of coquina blocks taken 
from the older batteries which protected the southern part of the 
town, stood opposite the end of Charlotte Street. This convent was 
abandoned when Florida became English and Protestant in 1763; and 
when Spain resumed possession, twenty years later, the building 
became the quarters for the troops, the huge barracks, of bricks 
brought from New York, which the British had built on the plain to 
the southward, having been burned. The United States continued 
this use of the buildings after Florida became ours, and gradually 
modified, without destroying, the ancient convent, until now it is the 
principal building of the 7iiilitary post, where a small contingent of 
troops is kept. The dress parades and morning guard-mountings 
are pretty ceremonies open to all visitors. 
Just opposite the gateway of St. Francis Barracks is a small house 



FLORIDA. 157 

said to be the oldest in St. Augustine, but it has been so " restored " 
and tricked out with bright paint and conch shells that it is impossible 
to regard it with any historical enthusiasm. 

The Military Cemetery is a short distance south of the barracks, 
and is closed to visitors, except on a pass from the adjutant of the 
post, whose office is opposite the barracks. From the road can be 
seen, well enough, however, the only object of public interest — the 
three low stone pyramids erected over the mingled graves of the 
soldiers who were killed in the Seminole War. Under the shaft called 
" Dade's Monument " lie more than loo of the men killed in the mas- 
sacre by the Indians of a large detachment of troops under Major 
Dade (p. 204), in the southern part of the State. Visitors to West 
Point, N. Y. , will recall the monument there to the same man and 
event. 

Returning along the top of the sea-wall, with the panorama of 
the beautiful bay spread before your eyes, continue your walk past 
the Plaza, along what used to be the picturesque Marine and Char- 
lotte streets, before fire had swept away all the old-fashioned houses, 
walls, and gardens, until you come to the glacis and water-battery 
of Fort Marion, which is the most characteristic and precious relic 
in St. Augustine's keeping, and the most perfect — outside of Quebec 
the only — example of medieval fortification on this continent. 

" On or near this site," writes Col. Charles Ledyard Norton, in 
his very valuable " Hand-book of Florida,"* " Menendez (p. 168) con- 
structed a wooden fort in 1565, and named it St. John of the Pines 
(San Juan de Pinos). It was, according to the most trustworthy 
accounts, octagonal in form, and mounted fourteen brass cannon. 
It was this fort that Sir Francis Drake destroyed in 1586, the garrison 
having fled with but a faint show of resistance. 

•' By this time the Spaniards had discovered the valuable properties 
of coquina for building purposes, and their subsequent works were 
of the more durable and less combustible material. Little is known 
of the structure that was threatened by Davis, the English buccaneer, 
in 1665, but its walls were at that time well advanced, having been 
pushed forward by the labor of Indian captives and convicts from 
Spain and Mexico. We have the testimony of Jonathan Dickinson, 
a Philadelphia Quaker, who was here in 1695. that the walls were 
thirty feet high at that time. Seven years later (1702), they were 
certainly far enough completed to defy Governor Moore of South 
Carolina, and in 1740 Governor Oglethorpe of Georgia hammered 
away at them for more than a month without producing any percept- 
ible impression. The Spaniards named the fort San Marco, the 

=^New York: Longmans, Green & Longmans, 1891. 



158 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

English changed the name to St. John, and on retrocession to Spain, 
in 1783, San Marco was once more recognized. On the accession of 
the United States the saints were laid aside, and the name of the 
patriot soldier of South Carolina was adopted by the War Depart- 
ment. 

' ' The fort is planned in accordance with the Vauban system of for- 
tification. . . . Approaching from the direction of the town the 
visitor ascends a path leading tip to what was formerly the exterior 
slope of the glacis. The mass of masonry on the left, pierced for 
cannon and musketry, is the barbican, an outwork intended for the 
protection of the weakest point in the main work, namely, the 
entrance. An extension of the moat includes the barbican, and both 
moats are now crossed by rough plank platforms, where once were reg- 
ular drawbridges. On the left, after passing the angle of the barbi- 
can, is a niche opening into a stairway, and containing, carved in 
stone, the royal arms of Spain, which, in a sadly dilapidated condi- 
tion, barely survive the rough handling to which they have been sub- 
jected by tte elements all the time, and by witless vandals at intervals, 
until protected by an iron grating. 

' ' Turning to the right, another rude structure of planks crosses the 
wide moat and leads to the entrance. Above this again are the arms 
of Spain with an almost obliterated inscription which, restored 
and translated, reads as follows : 

Don Ferdinand VI., being King of Spain, and Field-Marshall Don Alonzo 
Fernando Hereda, being Governor and Captain-General of this place, St. Au- 
gustine of Florida, and its province, this fort was finished m the year 1756. 
The works were directed by the Captain-Engineer Don Pedro of Brozas and 
Garay. 

' ' This door is provided with a heavy portcullis, which still remains 
in position, though hardly in working order. The door or sally-port 
is barely wide enough for four men to inarch abreast. Within is a 
wide arched passage leading to the open parade inside the walls. 
On either side of the passage are doors leading to the vaulted 
chaiiibers or casemates that surround the parade on all sides, and 
served in their time as quarters for the garrison, as cells for prisoners, 
including American rebels during the Revolution, and Indian captives 
in more recent times. On the left of the entrance passage is the 
guard room, and on the right is the baker}^ through which access is 
had to two dark vaults, used, no doubt, for storage. 

" The terreplein, or parade, is 103 by 109 feet, and a broad stair- 
way, formerly an inclined plane for the easier handling of gun- 
carriages and the like, leads to the parapet. Directly opposite the 
entrance is the chapel, without which no Spanish fort of that period 
was complete ; in it are still visible the stations of shrine and altar, 
and other evidences of the decoration customary in such places. It 
was used for religious services as late as 1S60 or thereabout, and was 
turned into a schoolroom for the Western Indians who were confined 
here in 18 75-' 78. The portico of the chapel was originally quite an 
elaborate bit of decorative architecture, but it has long since dis- 
appeared. 



FLORIDA. 159 

"In 1882 a party of French astronomers had the use»o£ the fort as a 
station to observe the transit of Venus, and a tablet near the chapel 
door commemorates their visit. . . . 

" The casemates are in the main alike, dark vaults, some of them 
lofty, others divided into two stories, some dimly lighted through 
narrow slits high up near the ceiling, others totally dark save for the 
entrance doors. That captives, red and white, pagan and Christian, 
have pined away their lives in more than one of these dungeons is 
extremely probable. . . . Two of them, however, have authentic 
histories. In the one marked 15, near the southwest bastion, Coa- 
coochee and Osceola, two of the most celebrated Seminole chiefs, 
were confined during the war that lasted from 1835 till 1842 [and from 
it made a remarkable escape by creeping through the ventilating win- 
dow; Osceola fell to the ground and was seriously hurt, but both got 
away]. During the years iSys-'yS the fort was again used as a prison 
for Indians [Apaches] brought from the far west. , . 

"Within the northeastern bastion is a chamber known as 'the 
dungeon,' though there is good reason for believing that it was orig- 
inally intended as a magazine. In 1839 ... it was discovered 
that there was still another innermost chamber, whose existence had 
not before been suspected. The wall was broken through, and, 
among other refuse, some bones were found so far gone in decompo- 
sition that the post-surgeon could not determine whether they were 
human or not. The rumor spread, however, that an entire skeleton 
had been found chained to the wall, and that implements were scat- 
tered about suggestive of the ' Holy Inquisition ' and a chamber of 
horrors. The tale grew by repetition and for many years it was gen- 
erally believed that the dungeon had once been the scene of a tragedy. 
The author of the ' Standard Guide to St. Augustine,' however, cites 
the statement of an old resident of the city, who was employed at the 
fort when a boy, and remembers the old disused magazine in the 
northeast bastion. According to this account, during the later days 
of Spanish occupancy the magazine fell out of repair, and became a 
receptacle for refuse of all sorts, until finally it was walled up, being 
regarded as a menace to health. There are still those who insist that 
the tragic accounts of the ' dungeon' are the true ones, but the weight 
of evidence seems to be in favor of the more prosaic version. 

" Ascending to the parapet, the commanding position of the fort 
is apparent, and the outlook in all directions is very interesting. . . . 

" In the salient angle of each bastion is a sentry-box of stone, 
where a man-at-arms might be tolerably secure against Indian arrows, 
or even against the firearms of the last century; on the northeastern 
bastion, the most exposed of the four, the sentry-box has a supple- 
mentary story or watch-tower, whence a still wider outlook may be 
obtained. 

" It is not likely that, even in case of a foreign war, guns will ever 
again be mounted eji barbette on Fort Marion. Even if the coquina 
masonry could sustain the weight of modern ordnance, it could not 
long withstand the impact of modern projectiles. For this reason the 
water-battery along the sea-face was built in 1842, but the gun-plat- 



160 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

forms were never finished, and the whole work is long out of date. 
The guns that lie rusting along the glacis mostly antedate the Civil 
"War, and are worthless save as old iron. 

" The floor of the moat was originally of cement, but it is covered 
deep with sand and soil. When the old fort was in fighting trim this 
moat could be flooded at high tide. A stairway near the barbican 
permits easy descent into the moat for those who do not choose to 
jump or climb down from. the crest of the counterscarp, . 
Along the eastern or sea front numerous scars and indentations may 
be seen in the masonry, some of which were made by British guns 
during Oglethorpe's siege in 1740. These respectable old wounds 
will readily be distinguished from the ones that have been inflicted 
by modern riflemen, who have at times used the moat as a shooting 
gallery. The use of all firearms within the fort is now very properly 
prohibited. The small brick building in the eastern moat is a furnace 
to heat shot for the water-battery. It was built in 1844. 

' ' The sergeant in charge of the fort conducts visitors through the 
casemates. As this is not part of his regular duty, a fee (25 cents for 
each person, or $1 for a party of several) is customary." 

Westward from the center of the fort to San Sebastian River runs 
the broad new Orange Street, in which, opposite the intersection of 
St. George Street, stand the two "towers" or posts of the ancient 
City Gate. 

' ' The gateway is the only conspicuous relic of the elaborate system 
of fortifications which once defended St. Augustine. _ The town 
being on a narrow peninsula running south across this northern 
boundary east and west, from water to water, ran lines of fortifica- 
tion, which effectually barred approach. From the fort a deep ditch 
ran across to the St. Sebastian, and was defended by a high parapet, 
with redoubts and batteries. The ditch was flooded at high tide. 
Entrance to the town was by a drawbridge across the moat and 
through the gate. Earthworks extended along the St. Sebastian 
River in the rear (west) of the town ; and around to the Matanzas 
again on the south. The gate was closed at night. Guards were sta- 
tioned in the sentry-boxes. Just within the gate was a guard-house 
with a detachment of troops. , . , The towers are very old. 
. . , In 1 8 10, at the Governor's command, all of the town's male 
inhabitants between twelve and sixty years of age were compelled 
to labor at the restoration of the gate and the other fortifications. 
At a later date the west tower was partly demolished and clumsily 
rebuilt. The stone causeway leading out of the gate is modern. . , , 
The material is coquina. The pillars are 20- feet in height, to the 
moldings, and 10 feet deep; the flanking walls are 30 feet in length; 
roadway between the pillars, 12 feet. The walls were formerly sup- 
plied with banquettes."— 5/<3:;z</<2r^ Guide to St. Augustzjie. 

Outside the gates has now extended a bright new suburb which 
has plenty of room to grow, and is overlooked by the piazzas of the 



FLORIDA. 161 

Satt Marco HoUl. Between the hotel and the Gate is an old cem- 
etery, with many ancient tombstones with epitaphs in Spanish and 
Latin, 

Old St. Augustine may be said to have ended hereabouts at 
Cordova Street, beyond which were the large estates of Messrs. 
Anderson, Ball, and others. All of thi-s property was bought a few 
years ago by Henry M. Flagler of New York, who laid out broad 
new streets through it, erected the great hotels hereafter described, 
and several other notable structures which have added great value 
and beauty to the city, and when time has mellowed them, and per- 
mitted the trees to grow, will make this one of the loveliest spots in 
the world. One of the new streets, Valencia, in the rear of the 
Ponce de Leon Hotel, leads to the railway station, and has upon it 
the great Memorial (Presbyterian) Church, erected by Mr. Flagler as 
a memorial to his son. Upon the next street (Carriere) are the beauti- 
ful white home of Mr. Flagler and the exquisite Grace (Methodist 
Episcopal) Church and parsojtage. 

The Bay and Beaches afford much amusement to the citizens 
and guests of St. Augustine. A ferry (about to be superseded by a 
railway bridge) crosses from near the Plaza to North Beach, the 
long sandspit forming the ocean shore north of St. Augustine Inlet, 
and between the sea and North or Tomalito River. Railway cars 
run from the boat landing to the beach of hard white sand covered 
with shells, where there is a restaurant and facilities for surf-bathing 
in summer. St. Aitgitstine Inlet is half a mile wide and covered 
by a bar passable through a channel close along South Beach. The 
southern extremity of North Beach is North Point. Opposite it, 
south of the Inlet, is Black Point, the northern extremity of St. Anas- 
tasia Island, which stretches southward for a dozen miles, between 
the ocean and Matanzas River, to Matanzas Inlet, below which the 
mainland forms the seacoast nearly as far as Ormond (p. 173). Anas- 
tasia is reached by ferry at frequent intervals and an island railway 
runs to the lighthouse and the coquina quarries. The lighthouse 
(ordinarily open to visitors) is of the first order, and its lantern (165 
feet above mean tide) emits a revolving beam of white light, " flash- 
ing " every three minutes and visible nineteen miles at sea, while 
the black spiral bands distinguish it by day. This structure was built 
in 1873, to supersede an older one, originally well inland, but now 
at the edge of the sea, which has eaten its way thus far, and erected 

11 



162 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TES. 

upon the coquina foundations of an old Spanish watchtower. The 
coqiiina quarries, a mile and a half below the lighthouse, are worth 
seeing, and there is much along the beach to interest the walker. 
Coquina is a rock composed of shells and fragments of shells thrown 
upon the beach, which have become cemented together by the action 
of water and time. It grows harder with exposure to the air, but has 
not strength for the highest uses of stone, and is not as much used 
now as formerly. These interesting quarries are also easily reached 
by boat from Quarry Creek, a tributary of the Matanzas. There is 
excellent shooting upon many parts of Anastasia, where the tangled 
thickets still shelter deer; and surf-fishing from the beach is practiced. 
The lower part of the island has one of the oldest orange groves in the 
State, having been settled and cultivated over 130 years ago by a Long 
Islander named Fish, who is buried there. A curiosity is a hot sul- 
phur spring which bubbles up in the ocean some distance off the coast, 
about three miles north of Matanzas Inlet, and which often makes 
regular breakers, though the water there is twenty fathoms deep. 

Mataiizas Inlet, at the southern end of the island, admits to the 
harbor, and was therefore carefully guarded by the Spanish garrison, 
who early erected near it a strong fort still in presentable condition; 
and commendable efforts are being made to preserve it. The name, 
which in Spanish means " slaughter," recalls that frightful massacre, 
by Menendez, in 1564, of Ribault's Huguenots (p. 167). This inlet 
is only six feet deep at high tide; and it is most easily reached by 
boats. In a row boat or canoe one may pass much farther up the 
Matanzas River, as well as several miles up the Tomalito, and dis- 
cover many pleasant tributaries, old plantations, and fishing and 
shooting grounds. 

Driving is another favorite pastime, good roads extending in 
various directions, and the hard ocean strands forming magnificent 
speeding places. The ruins of the fortified outpost of Fort Moosa, 
two miles northward, where a bloody fight took place at the time of 
Oglethorpe's attack in 1739, the old Buena Vista plantation, several 
orange groves, and various other objectives present themselves. 

The hotels at St. Augustine are among the most remarkable in 
the world, and those on The Alameda deserve especial mention as 
architectural achievements unparalleled elsewhere in the country. 
The tradition that St. Augustine was a Spanish city has now for the 
first time been realized; but it could never have been done had not 



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FLORIDA. 163 

the tradition been here to make the development seem natural, and 
had not the clear skies, the brilliant sunshine, the flat country, and 
the semi-tropical foliage, made the result consistent; and, further, 
this result could never have been attained had not the highest 
artistic talent and the most liberal munificence joined hands. Many- 
persons have said many things about these buildings — stately and 
beautiful from whatever point of view they are regarded; but no one 
has succeeded so well as Mr. C. B. Reynolds, the writer of the 
admirable " Standard Guide," to whom the present writer is largely 
indebted for the brief notes that follow. 

In the first place, the right material was found in a concrete com- 
posed of ground beach shells, invented by Mr. F. W. Smith of Bos- 
ton, who used it in the construction, some years ago, of his purely 
Moorish house, "Villa Zorayda," which is one of the ornaments of 
The Alameda. He made of the shell dust, mixed with sand and 
Portland cement, a paste with which he built up his walls (by tamping 
it down between molds of boards set up to give the required thick- 
ness and form), laying one mass on top of another until he had 
reached the height and length he wanted. Thus he formed a solid 
upright mass — a monolithic wall without seam or joint. This is the 
material out of which the hotels and other new buildings in the west- 
ern part of the city has been erected. Window caps, arches, etc., are 
made of brick, the ornaments are largely terra cotta, and the roofs 
are covered with tiles. These natural materials harmonize perfectly 
in color — pearl gray, dull reds, warm yellows — and are as local and 
natural as the adobe houses of Southern California. They glitter in 
the sunshine, and in the shadows are richly blue and brown above the 
climbing and clustering verdure and under the radiant sky. 

The moving spirit is Mr. Henry M. Flagler of New York, and the 
architects were Messrs. Carriere & Hastings and Mr. F. W. Smith. 
Mr. Flagler had little idea, when he began, of the vast undertaking 
he would carry through; but the artistic possibilities were so attrac- 
tive, and the return seemed so sure, that he let the design round 
itself out to a perfect whole, although the various enterprises have 
already cost a dozen millions of dollars. Of the hotels the first and 
greatest is 

The Ponce de Leon. It covers four and a half acres, surrounding a 
court 150 feet square, facing The Alameda, which is old King Street 
broadened into a noble avenue. "As we approach the hotel the 
attention is first attracted to the graceful towers [165 feet high], then 



164 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES, 

to the great dome and its copper lantern, and then to the broad roofs, 
with their red crinkled tiles and their dormer windows, the porticoes, 
loggias, and the corner turrets, carried up into low towers with open 
galleries and overhanging roofs. . . . The effects vary with the 
hours; all day long the changing lights and the play of the shadows 
reveal new combinations of beauty, and when illuminated at night 
the hotel is still a delight to the eye. . . . The architects and 
artists spent two years in perfecting these details ; . . . and we 
shall miss a full appreciation of the merits of their work unless we 
bear constantly in mind the historical theme they have sought to 
illustrate, . . . the chronicles of St. Augustine." 

Passing beneath the raised portcullis, past the almost tropical 
growths and murmuring fountains of the court, and through the 
arcades that bound it, the traveler enters halls, and rooms, and 
corridors that bewilder him with the richness and variety of their 
embellishments until he perceives that all is conformable to . the 
single idea. Marble, onyx, carved wood, tiles, stucco, and rich 
furniture are used in marvelous profusion, yet all is subdued to an 
artistic harmony. The parlors, opening out of one another, are 
exquisite examples of Italian decoration, the frescoings of which are 
exceedingly delicate works of art. The immense dome, supported 
upon pillars and caryatides of carved oak, covers a rotunda four 
stories in height, " forming arcades and galleries at each story, whose 
arches and columns are of different designs." Beneath each of these 
galleries are vaulted ceilings bearing symbolical paintings on a silver 
ground, the motives for which have been found, consistently, in the 
Spain and Florida of the sixteenth century; and the execution of 
which is beyond cavil. Over all is the richly decorated dome. But 
the crowning glory of the house is the magnificent vaulted hall of 
the dining room, approached by a broad onyx stairway which gives 
one of the most splendid of the many lovely vistas which are a 
peculiar beauty of this matchless structure. ' ' In its wealth of adorn- 
ment this hall is the pride and masterpiece of the hotel. Beauty of 
form, which everywhere charms the eye, is supplemented by rich- 
ness and harmony of color, and these in turn by the good taste 
shown in the choice of themes for the decoration. . . . The 
light is mellowed in its passage through the stained glass win- 
dows of the clerestory, and through the magnificent masses of the 
stained and clear leaded glass which make up almost the entire ends 
of the rounded extensions. The prevailing shade is creamy yellow." 



FLORIDA. 165 

On the south side of The Alameda, in what used to be the govern- 
or's garden, is The Alcazar, an adjunct of The Ponce de Leon. It 
opens early in the winter and closes late in the spring; is conducted 
on the European plan, and has a restaurant and cafe. "Within 
is a court of flowers, shrubbery, and vines, with an ingenious fountain 
playing in the center. This court or casino ... is surrounded 
by an arcade upon which open shops and offices. Beyond this court 
are the great swimming-pools of [warm] sulphur water from the arte- 
sian wells, and of salt water from the bay. South are tennis courts." 
The Tropical Lawntennis championship is decided in St. Augustine. 
On the other side of Cordova Street is a third great modern hotel, 
ander the same management as the Ponce de Leon and Alcazar, now 
called The Cordova, but formerly known as Casa Monica. Its lower 
story is devoted to shops on King Street, and its upper floors to rooms 
rented to gentlemen. This hotel contains a spacious glass sun-parlor. 

Of the older hotels, the largest is the Sati Marco, just beyond the 
city gates, which has ranked among the first-class hotels of Florida, 
but may not be operated during the winter of 1 895-6. The Magnolia, 
Florida, and St. George, near the Plaza, are also of high repute; 
and most of the smaller hotels are to be recommended, while there 
are many private boarding-houses, so that persons of all degree of 
fortune can find the means of winter residence in St. Augustine; and 
the poorer half of the migrants can participate in nine-tenths of its 
benefits and enjoyments as fully as the richer. 

The History of St. Augustine is substantially the history of the 
East Coast of Florida, and can be told to best advantage in a contin- 
uous story. It is quite likely that some of the Spanish and Portu- 
guese navigators, who quickly followed Columbus, hit upon Florida, 
for it is said that a map of 1508 showed the region, but undisputed 
Florida history begins with the ambition of a Spanish adventurer, 
Juan Ponce de Leon, who had first come to the West Indies with 
Columbus, and had heard of an island in the Bahamas wherein was a 
fountain that would renew the youth of him who bathed in it. This 
is an ancient myth which wonderfully early had found its way to the 
New World, but it lured the old cavalier on to voyages of discovery. 
He found the island but no magic waters; and then, sailing west, 
discovered a coast, new to him, at least, which he named Florida, 
because sighted on Easter Simday (Pascua florida). This happened 
in 1 5 12. Nine years later he sought to plant a colony there, and it is 
thought that the spot was close to the present site of St. Augustine, 
14 



166 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

but the Indians drove his men away and mortally wounded himself. 
Only the name remained and Spain's claim, not only to the peninsula 
but to all the mainland north and west as far as it might reach. The 
whole of North America was " Florida " then. Urged by their gov- 
ernment, Cortezand Pizarro made their " iniquitous but magnificent " 
conquest of Mexico and Peru. Adventurer after adventurer landed 
on the coast of the Gulf of Mexico and penetrated the Valley of the 
Mississippi, searching for gold in the forests and canebrakes; but no 
one set up the flag of Spain on the Atlantic Shore of the continent 
for many years. 

News of these discoveries went to Europe, year by year, and the 
harassed Huguenots of France conceived that they might erect for 
themselves a safe retreat and a free church in this new land. Encour- 
aged by their great leader, Admiral Coligni, Jean Ribault's Protes- 
tant expedition sailed from Havre in 1562, and landed at the mouth of 
the St. Johns, which he named the River of May, and then continued 
northward. Two years later (1564), a second Huguenot expedition 
of three vessels, commanded by Laudonniere (p. 16), came to the 
River of May, were exuberantly welcomed by the Indians, and built 
upon St. Johns Bluff the stockaded post called Fort Caroline. Then, 
like all the men of that period and'region, they began to maltreat the 
Indians, meddle in their wars, seek for gold and gems, but paid no 
attention to planting crops, and soon were embroiled in wars with the 
natives, as well as in quarrels among themselves, and were threatened 
with starvation. The miserable months dragged on. They were 
visited by Capt. John Hawkins, the English navigator, who was the 
originator of the slave trade; and, at last, Ribault brought a fleet to 
their succor. Meanwhile, an account of this Protestant French colony 
had reached Madrid, and roused both the religious and political ire of 
the King of Spain, who straightway dispatched a powerful expedition, 
under Pedro Menendez de Aviles, to root out and destroy the invad- 
ers. He arrived at the River of May just after Ribault (August, 
1565), but found himself too weak to attack Fort Caroline, and there- 
fore sailed southward, entered an inlet, which he named San Augustine 
in honor of the saint of that day (September 7, 1565), and landed at 
an Indian town called Selooe, or Seloy, after the name of its chief. 
Earthworks were immediately thrown up by gangs of negroes 
brought from the West Indies, and the country was taken possession 
of, with much ceremony, in the name of Spain, utterly regardless of 
any previous ownership by the red men. 



FLORIDA. 167 

The hardy Ribault had been aware of this movement, and thought 
by a bold stroke to overcome the Spaniards before they were pre- 
pared for defense; with nearly all his available men and ships, he 
sailed down the coast, and would surely have struck a heavy, and 
probably successful, blow had not a storm of unexampled violence 
suddenly arisen, driven his ships away from the inlet, and wrecked 
them before the fleet could return to its own harbor. Seeing the 
plight of the French ships, and realizing that Fort Caroline must now 
be defenseless, Menendez led an army overland, with incredible 
hardships, through the blinding rain and gale, surprised the half- 
ruined fort, and massacred nearly all the occupants. Then he left the 
larger part of his force as a garrison, bidding them rebuild the fort 
and fortify the entrance to the river (as was presently done), and 
then himself, with a small guard, marched back to St. Augustine. A 
few days later, he learned that a party of shipwrecked Frenchmen 
were encamped on the beach south of Matanzas Inlet. Going 
down there with a band of cutthroats, he induced the helpless French- 
men to surrender, and then murdered his prisoners in cold blood. 
Shortly afterward, he was informed of a larger body of French sailors, 
with Ribault and his principal officers, who had also been ship- 
wrecked, and were encamped upon the shore. To them Menendez 
swore the most solemn oaths of good treatment. The officers and 
about 150 men surrendered, were led back to Matanzas Inlet, and 
hewed down without mercy, in violation of every pledge, because 
they would not recant their " Reformed faith." The remnant forti- 
fied themselves, but their fort was taken by the Spaniards, who, for 
some strange reason, forbore to kill their prisoners, but only made 
them slaves in an easy captivity. Three years later (1568), this was 
fearfully revenged upon the Spaniards, at the mouth of the River of 
May, by De Gourgues; but, when he had killed the Spanish garri- 
sons there and demolished the forts, he sailed back to France; and 
thus ended the schemes for Protestant French colonization in Florida, 
which became firmly Spanish as far north as the British settlements, 
soon after founded in th^e Carolinas and Georgia, would permit. It is 
interesting to speculate upon what would have been the course of 
history had the French, instead of the Spaniards, won in this struggle. 

This possession was not kept, however, without trials and blood- 
shed. Setting up no industries, and antagonizing the Indians, 
the Spaniards, nearly starved, were mutinous and quarrelsome. 
Reinforcements and imported supplies saved them for a time, and 



168 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

plans for outposts at various points and the building of a large fort 
(San Juan de los Pinos) diverted their attention, Menendez went 
back to Spain, and the colonists gradually bettered their condition, 
until 1586, when the English freebooter, Francis Drake, discovered 
them by accident, came ashore, and attacked the town. Their fort 
was incapable of resistance, and everyone fled to the -woods, to 
return after a few days and find their camp in ashes and plundered of 
everything worth taking. Soon afterward a Franciscan monastery 
was opened and vigorous missionary efforts were made among the 
Indians, interrupted, in 1638, by an uprising of the savages. After 
this had been quelled, the town grew slowly and peacefully until 1665, 
when it was suddenly assaulted by another English sea-rover, Davis, 
who was unable to take the improved fort into which the citizens 
retreated, but sacked the town and went away. This fort was a 
strong one, standing upon the site of the present Fort Marion, then 
called San Marco, or simply The Castle, and successive governors 
perfected and strengthened it, employing the labor of convicts from 
the West Indies and of captured Indians, As the 17th century 
approached its end, hostilities began between the Spaniards of 
Florida, aided by forces from Cuba, and the English of Carolina and 
Georgia, whom the former regarded as trespassers; and in 1702 the 
declaration of war between England and Spain gave a renewed 
impulse to this coast fighting, the immediate result of which was an 
expedition against St. Augustine from Carolina, which was too 
numerous to be resisted outside the fort. The inhabitants therefore 
retired, with all they could carry into the castle, and let the Caro- 
linians occupy the town and besiege them. The enemy sent to 
Jamaica for heavy guns, but some Spanish frigates opportunely 
appeared, whereupon the Carolinians withdrew, but took away all the 
booty they could collect, rifling among the rest the church, the pre- 
sent structure, which had just been finished. This incident taught 
the people that something more than a castle was needed, and they 
began to surround the town with walls and redoubts, turning it into 
a fortified camp; in fact that w^as all that St. Augustine then was 
and continued to be for many years. It was tenanted by soldiers 
for the most part, had few wofkmen except unskilled slaves, and was 
constantly supplied by provisions from Europe, a famine resulting 
even as late as 1712 from the failure of these ships to arrive. It is 
doubtful whether the Spaniards ever would have colonized Florida in 
an industrial and self-supporting sense. 



PLORTDA. 169 

Alarms followed one another until the time when Oglethorpe, 
who was governor of Georgia, was sent by the English govern- 
ment to try to capture Florida and stop the ruinous colonial strife. 
He made an elaborate expedition in 1739, by both land and sea, his 
fleet first capturing the St. Johns forts and then proceeding to St. 
Augustine Inlet, while a land force marched overland to the city's 
gates. Oglethorpe erected batteries on North Beach and Anastasia 
Island (p. 161) and shelled the town, driving everyone to the shelter 
of the castle, which by that time had substantially its present form. 
A land battle, in which the Spaniards were successful, was followed 
by an artillery duel and a siege; but Oglethorpe failed to get posses- 
sion of Matanzas Inlet, and so stop supplies from Havana, and after 
a few weeks of futile effort went home. The Spanish commander 
retaliated, but met with no success, and a desultory conflict followed 
until closed by the treaty between Spain and Great Britain, in 1763, 
by which Florida was ceded to England. 

A great change ensued in St. Augustine and all civilized Florida. 
Immigration was encouraged by the first of that long train of glow- 
ing accounts of the climate and soil which have attracted immigrants 
ever since. Roads were made, the interior explored, farmers and 
gardeners settled on tracts of land given them by the government, 
and an enterprising industrious population took the place of the lazy 
soldiers and camp-followers w^hom Spain had been supporting so 
long, for nearly every Spaniard in the country made haste to leave it, 
though all were privileged to stay if they liked. St. Augustine be- 
came a naval and military station of some account, and had many 
persons of official and social consequence in its society. It is not 
surprising, therefore, that when the American Revolution broke out, 
this remote station remained loyal to the crown, and correspondingly 
an object of attention from the Southern colonists, who once snatched 
an English powder-laden ship from the very entrance of the harbor, 
and who planned, but did not carry out, a land expedition for its 
capture. Thither, in 1780, were sent sixty prominent citizens 
arrested in Charleston, to be held as prisoners of war, and who 
remained there a year. The Governor wished them to be treated 
with coldness, if not with contempt; but it is probable that the 
society of so many cultivated men was too great a temptation to the 
little colony, for they appear to have been accepted rather as guests. 
Florida had by this time been made so valuable that the exports 
amounted to nearly $250,000 annually; and it was a great hardship, 



170 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

after the Independence of the United States had been acknowledged, 
to have Great Britain recede Florida to Spain, compelling all the 
English people (about 25,000) to sacrifice their holdings and emigrate, 
or else stay under Spanish rule, which few of them would do. In 
1784, therefore, the flag of England came down from Fort St. John, 
as the British called the Castle of San Marco, and the lion of Spain 
again floated from the old coquina ramparts. 

"This transfer," remarks Colonel Norton, "inaugurated what 
was perhaps the most idyllic period of the city's history. The world 
went on fighting as usual, but St. Augustine had ceased to be a bone 
of contention. The young republic to the northward was somewhat 
aggressive, it is true, but the new order of things did not for a gen- 
eration intimately affect the old city. Under the wise and temperate 
government of Don Enrique White, a somewhat unique Spanish com- 
munity appears to have developed. Music, dancing, civil and eccle- 
siastical feasts, and all the light amusements dear to the Latin heart 
were celebrated during the genial winter months, and the city was a 
veritable bower of tropical vegetation, with narrow, paved streets 
lined with cool gray coquina-walled houses. Within the gates no 
hoof of horse ever sounded. Those who could afford to ride rode in 
palanquins." 

It became more and more evident, however, that this foreign and 
last-century state of things could not last beside the pushing growth 
of the Anglo-Saxon republic to the north. Spain had previously lost 
to France the country west of the Appalachicola, and it was plain 
that the whole peninsula must sooner or later become a part of the 
United States. Discontent was growing even among the Spaniards 
themselves, who now were scattered along both coasts; and border- 
depredations could not be prevented. Long and tedious negotiations 
between the two governments finally resulted in the purchase of 
Florida, which passed into possession of the United States in 1821. 

Gen. Andrew Jackson, the leader of Southern military operations 
during the War of i8i2-'i4, was naturally the first territorial gov- 
ernor; but St. Augustine saw little if anything of him, and lived 
peacefully until 1835, when she once more became the headquarters of 
military movements against the Indians, who had risen all over the 
State, and whose war parties came to her very gates in their forays. 
The old castle, now christened Fort Marion, was again heavily gar- 
risoned, and military posts were scattered all along the eastern coast, 
and at many points of the interior accessible from this depot. By 
1842 the Seminoles were subdued and the country made safe for set- 
tlers. Three years later (1845) Florida was admitted into the Union 



FLORIDA. 171 

as a State, and began a period of prosperity, in which St. Augustine 
shared particularly, because no point was better known or more 
desirable; and from that time it began to be a winter resort for 
invalids, who were quartered in the houses of the citizens and certain 
small hotels, which now would be considered very poor affairs 
indeed, but perhaps made life as pleasant for their less exacting 
inmates as now do the more splendid hostelries. Then came 
the rude interruption of another war, and once more the flag was 
hauled down from the old citadel, and a new one run up — the stars 
and bars of the Confederate States of America. Again (March ii, 
1862) a warship appeared in the harbor, where such a long train of 
them had floated before, and approached the old city, but in such a 
manner as St. Augustine had never seen. With a flag of truce flying 
at its fore, the United States gunboat " Huron " came to anchor, and 
was responded to by a white flag on the ramparts that had never 
shown it before. Com. C. P. R. Rogers landed unarmed, and the 
Mayor surrendered the city, the small Confederate garrison having 
fled. Once more the stars and stripes floated from Fort Marion, and, 
during the remainder of the Civil War, St. Augustine was simply a 
quiet garrison-station, firmly but gently held by military authority, 
and a favorite naval resort. 

"The soldiers of the garrison, like the Spaniards and the English 
who preceded them in former wars, enjoyed such excellent health 
that the sick-list proved a telling advertisement for the healthfulness 
of the climate. No sooner were hostilities over than inquiries began 
to arrive from the North as to hotel accommodations for the coming 
winter, and very soon the sound of preparation was heard. New 
hotels were built, largely with Northern capital, new and unfamiliar 
Paris fashions appeared with early winter along the sea-wall, and 
the old Spanish city entered upon a career of prosperity which soon 
surpassed her wildest dreams." 

St. Augustine to Bay Biscayne. 

Leaving St. Augustine the train of the East Coast Line points 
southwest toward Palatka. At Tocoi Junction the branch to Tocoi, 
on the St. Johns, diverges — the first railroad into St. Augustine. 
Near here are the vineyards of Moultrie, which are introducing a 
new element into the horticulture of this part of the State, which 
seems to have all the conditions needed for successful grape -growing. 
Hasimgs is a station in the midst of a very fertile region*, a few 



172 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

miles beyond which the St. Johns comes into view and the train 
crosses into Palatka (p. 143). East Palatka and San Mateo (Stan- 
ton, $2) are little towns among orange groves opposite the city, 
whence the railway takes a straight southeast course toward 
Ormond. The distance from Palatka to Ormond is thirty-seven 
miles, all the way through level woods, which look dull and barren 
but are capable of profitable use under proper treatment. 

The Atlantic Coast of Florida consists of parallel belts. The 
flat beach is generally of fine sand. Next comes a ridge of sand 
hills covered with a growth of beach grass, saw palmetto, oak scrub, 
and weeds, which, farther on, change to red bays, small live oaks, 
and cedars, to end in a "half hammock," a wilderness of not very 
tall trees of all kinds growing on shell heaps, oron sand blended with 
mould. This half hammock is bounded by a river, which, under dif- 
ferent names, and sometimes interrupted by a swamp or marsh, is 
running along the entire East Coast of Florida, parallel with the 
ocean. The water in this " Indian River," as a part of it is called, 
is salt, because the ocean tide pours into it through several breaks in 
the beach. The western bank of the river consists of a series of 
forest-covered hills forming what is called a "high hammock.'" The 
soil is often made up of oyster shells wnth a layer of humus on top. 
This very fertile belt is seldom more than half a mile wide, and is 
succeeded by a lower belt that probably once was the bed of a river, 
but now, as a rule, bears yellow pines, while in some places savannas 
occur — shallow grass ponds containing a few inches of water during 
the rainy season, but dry most of the year. In the pine woods of 
this belt the soil is sandy, sometimes underlaid by a hard sandstone 
of a brown, iron-rust color. Bushes of gallberries are growing 
among the pines. 

The sixth in order of these coastwise divisions is the low-hammock 
belt. It has a black, fat soil with a substratum of clay or marl, or 
both, and is lower than the foregoing belt. Oblong muck -ponds, 
running north and south, occur frequently in the eastern part of it, 
while the western part is formed by a higher, narrow ridge. A thick, 
primeval forest of semi-tropical trees covers it, large live oaks, 
draped with the picturesque Spanish-moss, hickory, the wild orange, 
maple, cedar, elm, bay, ash, wahoo, sweet gum, and very tall palms. 
A strong order of jasmine, orchids, and other tropical flowers fills 
the air. Next comes the spruce-pine belt with a soil of white sand 
covered with spruce pines and low bushes, and half a mile farther 
west are the " flat woods" — or low pine lands, that do not, however, 
belong to the East Coast region. 

Although the seven coast belts mentioned always occur m the 
same order, when all are present, it may happen that one or the other 
is missing. The high hammock is often entirely absent, and the low 
hammock may only be found in spots in the southern half of the East 
Coast. But the spruce pine and the yellow pine belts are very 
constant. 



FLORIDA. na 

As far as the usefulness of these different belts for the inhabitants 
is concerned, it should be stated that the beach itself furnishes a fine 
road, and the western part of the beach-ridge is often very fertile and 
rich, and not as subject to frosts as the mainland. 

The high hammock on the west side of the Coast River has a light, 
I sandy soil covered with animal remains, oysters, clams, and fish, left 
I there by the Indians, and with a thick layer of decayed leaves. The 
forest-growth consists of a variety of cedar, oaks, palms, hickory, 
bay, etc. , and it forms a splendid soil for fruit trees and vegetables, 
I in short, for all products which can grow in this climate. Here stand 
I most of the villages and hotels. 

I The yellow pine marks the next belt, whose soil is light and sandy, 

I but nevertheless excellently well fitted for agricultural purposes, pro- 

' vided it is fertilized. In a few instances the subsoil is " hardpan," a 

kind of sandstone, and, if so, the land is hardly worth cultivating. 

The savannas mentioned in this district need draining. 

The low hammock west of this belt constitutes the richest land in 

the State, but is unhealthy to live upon, is expensive to clear, and 

I needs draining. The big TurnbuU Hammock, which runs a mile and 

i a half in width, for forty miles from Ormond south, west of the 

towns, is in this belt. 

The seventh and the last belt of the East Coast region has a soil 
of almost snow-white sand, and has a vegetation of palmetto, scrub, 
and spruce pines. Below Eden it forms the preferred soil for pine- 
apple plantations, and thousands of acres are now under cultivation 
there. In the north this belt is of much less value to the agriculturist, 
but the farmers who own and work on low-hammock land, ought to 
put their houses on it, as it is very healthy. Some muck from the 
hammock swamps will make it possible to grow a garden filled with 
j olive trees, pecans, and berries around the house, and good drinking 
I water can be had at a depth of from fifteen to twenty feet. 

I At Ormond the Halifax River is reached; it is the northernmost 
of the coast lagoons, has a total length of about twenty-five miles 
from its head to Mosquito Inlet, and is separated from the ocean by a 
;! narrow peninsula, the inner side of which is wooded. Here, eighteen 
I miles above the inlet, a pretty town has grown up amid the forest 
on both sides of the river, which is spanned by a bridge that carries 
a tramway to the ocean beach. In summer the population is small, 
and many cottages are closed, but in winter the village is thronged. 
This is true of most of the places to be mentioned in this chapter, 
but the permanent population of both the villages and back country 
is steadily enlarging. The surroundings of Ormond are very invit- 
ing. There is an excess of forest, dense and varied, through which 
roads and paths have been cut in every direction, while the rivers 
and beach offer a contrast of pleasures when one is tired of rambling. 
The roads are good, and driving is much indulged, visiting vine- 



174 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

grown and picturesque ruins of sugar mills, orange and lemon 
groves, up to the Indian Mound at Hernandez Point, where the 
Spaniards had a settlement, on to Buckhead Bluff, at the crossing of 
the old King's Road, and thence back through the hammock. The 
hard ocean strand is another favorite driving place, and bicycling 
can be enjoyed more thoroughly there than elsewhere. The Halifax 
River is quiet and shallow, and an ideal place for boating, while sea 
bass, salt-water trout, sheepshead, and numerous other fishes inter- 
esting to anglers abound in its tidal waters. A special trip by 
steam launch is that up Tovioka River, a tributary of the Halifax, 
which is a small copy of the Ocklawaha, offers excellent fishing, and 
can be ascended by small boats for some twelve miles. ' ' The 
Tomokas," says Norton, "were a powerful Indian tribe during the 
early years of Spanish occupation. A catechism in their language 
was published about 1613.'* 

The Ormond ($5) and Hotel Coqidna ($3.50) are the two leading 
hotels of the place, and are under the same management. The 
former is on the eastern shore of the Halifax River, and is an 
immense and splendidly equipped house, with every provision for 
luxury as well as convenience that can be thought of. One peculi- 
arity is white servants, the dining-room waitresses being of the type 
familiar to sojourners at the summer hotels in the White Mountains, 
whence these young women are brought. This hotel remains open 
from December 15th to May ist. Hotel Coquina is an annex, situated 
upon the seashore, where facilities for surf -bathing are provided. It 
has a sun-parlor for chilly days, and remains open until June ist. 
Several good boarding-houses «^xist in the village, and cottages are 
offered for rent, furnished, each winter, $30 a month being an 
ordinary charge; delivery wagons from the village take supplies to 
the door, and living is thus made inexpensive and homelike. 

Daytona (pop., 1,500; Holly Inn, $3; Spence, $3.50; Palmetto, 
$2.50; Ocean View, $2.50; other hotels at $2) is a station six miles 
south, on the western bank of the river, which is thronged in winter 
with Northern families w^ho owm houses or abide in|the many board- 
ing-houses of the " Fountain City." Two bridges cross the river to 
Silver Beach, as the shining ocean strand is here called. Port 
Orange, with a pleasant little hotel, is a sort of southern suburb; 
and then comes New]Smyrna, the terminus of the railroad from the 
St. Johns River at Blue Springs (p. 149), a road built to accommodate 
the people of Florida who wished to come to this seashore m summer. 



FLORIDA, 175 

The tendency now is, on the part of winter visitors, to remain here 
later and later in the spring, which is altogether the most delightful 
and amusing time along this coast. Turtle-hunting and certain kinds 
of fishing are best in April and May, and the flowers and fruits are 
then most abundant and delicious. Orange-growing and bee-keep- 
ing are extensive industries here. There are several hotels : Ocean 
(seventy-five guests, $3), Hillsboro ($2.50), Coronado (special rates), 
and others. 

Three miles north of New Smyrna is Mosquito Inlet, forming the 
southern end of the Halifax, and the northern end of Hillsboro River, 
which continues the lagoon several miles southward. 

It has been well said that this coast river should bear one name 
throughout its length, disregarding the interruptions of swamps. 
"From the mouth of the St. Johns River southward, these names 
occur in the following order: Pablo Creek, North River, Matanzas 
River, Mata Compra Creek, Smith's Creek, Halifax River, Hills- 
boro River, Indian River, Little Lake Worth, Lake Worth, Boyo 
Ratones, for the second time Hillsboro River, New River, and 
Dumbfoundling Bay. Even Biscayne Bay and Card's Sound are 
really continuations of the coast river, but as the first mentioned 
reaches a width of twelve miles, while the beach ridge changes to a 
series of low islands, ' keys,' the characteristics of the river have 
really disappeared. All the divisions mentioned above are now, or 
will be in a near future, united by canals, and the idea is to trans- 
form the whole water belt to one continuous navigable river, or rather 
sound, from the mouth of St. Johns to Bay Biscayne. The work is 
taken in hand by a private company, that receives from the State 
a certain number of acres, about 4,000, for every mile of the canal, 
which has to be dug to a depth of six feet and a width of thirty feet." 

This canal will be 400 miles long, and will be partly opened in 
1896. It is proposed to place upon it finely-equipped passenger 
boats, upon which the service will be of the best, including superb 
orchestras, relieving each other during the day and a part of the 
night, and a score of other forms of fin-de-siecle entertainment for 
their passengers. 

Mosquito Inlet is half a mile in width, with a channel of twelve 
feet at high tide, and it was therefore used as a harbor by the earliest 
explorers of the coast. It is indicated to seamen by a red brick 
lighthouse, having a first-class light; this is open to visitors, who 
will find it worth while to climb to the lantern. The lighthouse is 
north of the inlet; and two miles above it is the fishing hamlet of 
Ponce, which is frequented by sportsmen after ducks, shore-birds, and 
sea fishing. New Smyrna is itself a favorite headquarters for sports- 
men. The inlet was a refuge for freebooters and Spanish cruisers 



176 G UIDE TO SO UTHEA S TERN S TA TES. 

in the early times, and mysterious ruins seem to show that there 
were settlements there long before the English occupation. This was 
remembered in the Seminole War, when troops were landed here; 
and again when the Civil War broke out, and it became a port for 
blockade runners, but this was soon stopped by the assignment to duty 
there of two gunboats, whose men had a small fight at New Smyrna 
(March 22, 1862), which was slightly fortified by local Confederates. 

The Minor can Immigration in 1767 begins the authentic history 
of New Smyrna, As soon as the English got possession of Florida, 
in 1763, Dr. Andrew Turnbull, a wealthy colonist, explored this 
district and decided to drain and cultivate the rich hammocks. The 
Governor granted him 60,000 acres under certain conditions, and he 
at once went to Europe and enlisted a company of some 1,500 Greeks 
and Minorcans, men, women, and children, to whom he gave a free 
passage and promised land after three years. The voyage was 
a long and unpleasant one, but they finally arrived, went to work and 
raised a good crop of edibles by the following spring. As soon as 
the colony was well established. Doctor Turnbull began to plant 
indigo, and by 1772 had 3,000 acres under successful cultivation. 
The further story has been vividly told by Colonel Norton, 

" Success seemed assured, but for some reason the management of 
affairs was left to agents, who inaugurated a system of oppression 
that soon became absolute slavery with all its revolting features. 
By 1776 only 600 of the colonists were left. In the summer of that 
year a party of Englishmen from St. Augustine visited New Smyrna 
to see the improvements, and, while conversing among themselves, 
their comments on the state of affairs were overheard by a bright 
Minorcan boy, who immediately told his mother what he had heard. 
Secret meetings were held, and a plan was concocted whereby a 
party of three of the bolder spirits w^ere granted leave of absence to 
catch turtle. Instead of going south, however, they started up the 
coast, swam Matanzas Inlet, and reaching St. Augustine appealed to 
Governor Tonyn for protection, which was promised. The envoys 
returned to New Smyrna with the tidings of release. A leader was 
chosen, Pallicier by name, and under his direction the able-bodied 
men provided themselves with wooden spears, rations were packed 
for three days, and with the women and children in the center, 
the 600 began their march. So secretly was all this managed that 
they had proceeded several miles before their departure was dis- 
covered. . . . They marched on, however, and reported to the 
Governor, who ordered provisions for them, and organized a court 
for the trial of their cause, the Attorney-General of the Province, 
Younge by name, appearing as their counsel. Turnbull failed to 
establish any further claim upon their services, and they were 
assured of personal liberty. Lands were assigned them, and they 
soon became an influential element of the population in St. Augustine. 
Some of their descendants are still to be found in the neighborhood 
of New Smyrna, whither they returned after they became assured 
that there was no danger of re-enslavement." 




15 



FLORIDA 177 

Oak Hill, twelve miles south of New Smyrna, is the resort of 
sportsmen, who find in Sams' Atlantic Hotel (50 guests, $3; one 
mile from the station) a hostelry to their taste. Both fishing and 
shooting are satisfactory in this neighborhood. 

The Hillsboro River, or Mosquito Lagoon, which extends some 
twenty miles farther, is much obstructed here by mangrove islands, 
and boats drawing as much as four feet can carry through the 
channel, which has been well buoyed. A landmark on the narrow 
strip of beach, is Turtle Mound— an Indian shell heap, about forty 
feet high. The lower part of this river overlaps the head of Indian 
River, which lies to the westward, and is first seen from the railroad 
trains at Shiloh, beyond which it skirts the lagoon to Titusville, 
154 miles south of Jacksonville. A canal connects the Hillsboro 
with Indian River. 

Titusville (pop., 2,500; Grand View, 70 guests, $2.50; Indian River, 
125 guests, $2.50; and boarding-houses). This is the county seat of 
Brevard County, and is a wide-awake business place, with banks, 
supply stores, water works, ice factories, electric lights, and a large 
trade in fresh fish shipped away in ice. It has not only the daily 
through trains of the East Coast Line, but is the southeastern termi- 
nus of the Jacksonville, Tampa & Key West Railway's line, which 
runs solid trains hither from Jacksonville, via Enterprise; and it is the 
northern terminus and home port of the Indian River steamboats. 

The Indiafi River Steainboats run upon a schedule heretofore 
as follows: Southbound. — Steamer "St. Augustine" or "White" 
is appointed to leave Titusville 5.30 a. m. daily, except Sunday, for 
Cocoa, Rockledge, Melbourne, and intermediate landings; due at 
Rockledge9,3oa. m., Melbourne 12.00 noon. Steamer " St. Sebastian" 
or "St. Lucie" is appointed to leave Titusville for Jupiter on arrival 
of the J., T. & K. W. fast mail train 8.00 p. m., Mondays and Thurs- 
days; due at Jupiter 7.00 p. m. on the following evening. Northbou7id. 
— Steamer " St. Augustine" or " White" is scheduled to leave Mel- 
bourne daily, except Sunday, 12.10 noon, stopping at way-landings 
on signal; due at Rockledge 4.00 p. m. ; Titusville 9.30 p. m. 

// is probable, however, that these boats will not run during 
the season of i8g6, nor resume U7itil all the canals are finished 
from Ormo7id to Biscayne Bay. 

hidiaji River is 142 miles long, of varying width, and has suffi- 
cient depth for the flat-bottomed steamboats and other craft that 
navigate it. The upper part is divided by the large triangular piece 
of wooded land called Merritt's Island; that part of Indian River 
east of this tract is distinguished as Banana River, and a narrow 
watercourse across the island is Banana Creek. Banana River is 
separated from the ocean by the usual strip of sand dunes and beach, 



178 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

which, opposite the southern part of Merritt's Island (where there 
are some fine plantations), reaches out into the headland of Cape 
Canaveral, which bears a powerful light. Six miles north of it are 
remains of an old fortification, regarded as that built by the members 
of Ribault's crews, who wisely refused to surrender at Matanzas 
Inlet (p. 167). The foreland then- narrows into a mere strip of sand, 
and stretches unbroken southward for seventy-five miles to Indian 
River Inlet, opposite Fort Pierce, and then onw^ard thirty-five miles to 
Jupiter Inlet, which is regarded as the southern end and entrance of 
Indian River. 

The river at Titusville is six miles wide. It narrows southward, 
and is often obstructed by mangrove islands and stretches of marsh, 
making the voyage along its intricate channel a novel and delightful 
experience, growing essentially tropical as the lower portions are 
gained. The completion of the canals will greatly enhance this. 

The railway keeps close to the bank. City Point (15 m.) is com- 
posed largely of the homes of wealthy Northerners; and we are 
assured that, in this vicinity, "it is possible to ride along the bank 
of the river through a continuous succession of orange groves for a 
distance of more than six miles, without emerging from under their 
branches. The beauty of this section in early spring, when the 
orange trees are in bloom, is almost oppressive." Cocoa (Cocoa 
House, $2.50) is a busy little town, with a long wharf where the 
railway traffic with Merritt's Island is conducted. The village of 
Merritt (The Riverview, $3), on the island opposite, stands in the 
midst of a pleasing mixture of pine woods and orange groves. Just 
here the slow geological elevation of the coast has brought the 
coquina beds to the surface, and thenceforth, for many miles, the 
western shore of Indian River is formed of broken strata of coralline 
rock, which forms the peculiar feature of 

Rockledge. This is essentially a Avinter resort, and consists of a 
group of fine hotels, with their attached cottages, numbering per- 
haps 3oo^in all ; but there is no " town " in the ordinary meaning of 
the term. The most conspicuous of the hotels is the Indian 
River, an immense roomy structure, holding 500 guests ($4 to 
$5), having elevators, steam heat, electric lights, and all the 
appointments of a modern first-class hotel. The next largest 
is The Plaza, with 150 rooms ($3 to $4), and 4,600 square 
feet of piazzas ; and third in order are the New Rockledge and 
Tropical ($3). All these hotels are directly upon the bank of the 
river, of which they have an extended view, are surrounded by beau- 
tiful grounds and orange groves, where the guests may gather the 



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FLORIDA. Yl^ 

fruit at will, and are managed by Northern men who bring with them 
their staffs of experienced assistants from the White Mountains, 
Petoskey , and elsewhere. They are all furnished and provided in the 
best possible manner, and are abodes of luxury and systematic 
enjoyment. In addition there are the White House, Wilkinson, and 
various boarding-houses, bringing the capacity of the place up to 
1,200 or more guests. All of the healthful and enjoyable experiences 
of this favored region can be enjoyed here. Says a recent and well- 
informed writer : 

"The roughness of the shore is softened by the oak, magnolia, 
and palmetto trees which overhang the water. These trees have 
been left along the river front as a wind-break for the magnificent 
orange groves that have made the Rockledge hammock famous. 
Under their spreading boughs a sturdy pedestrian can easily walk 
from Cocoa to Rockledge on a coquina roadway that resembles a 
pavement through a city park. The tourist is now in the very heart 
of the orange country. If he be wise he will tarry here awhile and 
feast on the nectar of the gods. Nowhere can he spend a few weeks 
more delightfully. From this point as a base he can make excursions, 
the memory of which will be a joy to him forever. If he takes a sail 
across the river, and lands on the opposite shore a little south of 
Rockledge, he will coihe to Fairyland, on Merritt's Island. A long 
dock runs far out into the river, as a landing for steamboats. From 
this dock a narrow canal about 100 feet long gives space to the small 
sail or row boats, and suddenly terminates in a small, clear lake, as 
round as if marked out by Nature's compass, and half a mile in width. 
Crossing this lake and disembarking, our exploring tourist has a 
novel experience for Florida — he has a hill to climb. The land rises 
in a long slope to a high elevation. The entire walk up the hillside 
is beneath the shade of orange trees, magnolias, pawpaws, and 
palms. . . . On the summit of this eminence is the owner's 
residence. From its portico, far across the Banana, another shore 
is seen, the hither coast of another long, low strip of land. On its 
outer edge beats the Atlantic, the roar of the surf coming distinctly 
to the ear. . . . Around him are pineapples by the acre — by 
the tens of thousands; just beyond rise the dark green tops of orange 
trees, and broad banana leaves wave between. Over the cottage 
lofty pawpaws rear their feathery crests, and in front an India rubber 
tree has wound its clinging roots in a deadly embrace around an oak 
which once protected it." 

^ Three miles west of Rockledge is Lake Poinsett, on the St. Johns 
River, and reached by a practicable road, where fishing and shooting 
are exceptionally good. 

Passing various small stations, the next point of note is Eau 
Gallic (15 m.), where there is deep water close to the shore rocks, 
and a railway wharf for handling freight. Here, consequently, has 



180 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

grown lip the "city" of the district, with banks, churches, schools, 
supply stores, an ice factory, many artesian wells, and a growing 
commercial community. Its principal hotel is the Granada ($2.50), 
open from December to May. Melbourne (Carleton, $2.50; River- 
side, $2; Hector, $2, and other small hotels) is doing its best to 
rival Eau Gallic in all respects. They are only four miles apart. 

Several places of interest lie in this neighborhood, where, as 
usual, all favorable lands are devoted to fruit culture, and semi- 
tropical vegetation covers the shores. There are no good roads, for 
everybody travels by boat or afoot. Lake Washington, the principal 
source of the St. Johns, can be reached by a trail leading seven miles 
west, but it is little more than a vast morass haunted by wild 
quadrupeds, birds, and reptiles. Indian River is here two miles wide 
and is crossed by steam ferries, and at Melbourne, by a bridge carry- 
ing a tramway. On the narrow ocean beach is Sarjio, consisting of 
a group of tourists' hotels and cottages built in Egyptian style 
around a central court, which forms a highly beautified park. There 
are good facilities for surf -bathing, etc. , near here and on Melbourne 
Beach. An all-day excursion by steam launch to the head of Banana 
River is one of the local diversions. 

The extension of the railway below this point is so recent that 
little has been done to disturb the wildness of nature. The 
small stations are nuclei of future farming districts and winter 
residences. At Grant and Micco are already small hotels. Here 
oyster beds and old reefs covered with mangroves break the river 
into a seemingly impassable archipelago called The Narrows. 

"The navigation of the narrows is always entertaining. The 
boats are built with special reference to short turns, and as they push 
their way through the crooked channels, the mangroves brush along 
the guards, and some new surprise awaits the spectator at every 
turn. The water is usually highly phosphorescent at night, and 
wonderful displays of nature's fireworks may be seen as the boat 
passes through flocks of ducks or over schools of mullet and the other 
fish with which these waters abound. At times the surface, for a 
hundred feet or more on either side of the bow, is crossed and 
recrossed by an intricate embroidery pattern traced in lines of soft 
yet brilliant light." Norton. 

Indian River hilet admits only boats of light draught under a 
skillful pilot, and is sometimes closed; but was taken advantage of 
by the government, many years ago, to form a military post against 
the Indians on the neighboring shore, called Fort Pierce. This was 
three miles below the Inlet, immediately opposite which is St. Lucie, 
a fishing and fish-packing village, with the small Hotel St. Lucie (I3 
to $4). 



FLORIDA. 181 

Fort Pierce was the headquarters on this coast in 1835 and later, 
for operations against the Seminoles of the Everglades (p. 206). To 
it was assigned Second Lieutenant W. T. Sherman, as his first 
appointment after graduation, with his Company A of the Third 
Artillery, of which Braxton Bragg was captain. Thirty years later 
the country rang with the exploits of these men commanding oppos- 
ing armies. Sherman's "Memoirs" contain many interesting par- 
ticulars of the Indian warfare of that time in this region, as well as a 
picture of what life and sport here were in those primitive days. 
Fort Pierce is now a trading town to which the Seminoles come, 
bringing their trophies of the chase, alligator hides, skins, feathers, 
baskets, etc., for sale, and buying in return civilized goods. They 
have a permanent village near by, and can be hired as guides for 
hunting and canoeing trips into the Everglades. The Smithsonian 
Institution has recently published extensive accounts of the customs, 
myths, etc., of these Indians, which are a very mixed race, having 
now no tribal coherence. The Fort Pierce Hotel ($3) has accommo- 
dations for seventy-five guests, who will find, in the long reaches of St. 
Lucie River and the tropical beauties of Sewall's Point, a delightful 
field for excursions. It is in the St. Lucie that the few remaining 
examples of the Florida sea-cow or manatee still find shelter, and 
they should be religiously preserved against extinction. The very 
cold winter of 1894-5, unexampled in its severity, caused the death of 
several examples. 

Continuing southward, the pineapple region is entered at Ankona, 
and extensive plantations of this fruit surround Eden, Jensen 
(Hotel Al Fresco, $3), Waveland, White City, and so on. Pine- 
apples are now successfully grown from Eau Gallic southward, but 
here the principal crop is produced largely by Scandinavian settlers, 
who have oranges, lemons, guavas, olives, and other tropical fruits 
planted upon the hammock lands that border the river. 

The cultivation of the pineapple is very simple. The land is 
cleared and a crop of cow-peas plowed under. A good artificial ferti- 
lizer is put on, and then sprouts are planted in regular rows, two by 
two feet, about 10,000 to the acre. At intervals the fertilizing is 
renewed, according to the means of the grower; the more fertilizers 
the bigger fruit. It takes eighteen months to ripen the first crop of 
about 8,000 apples. The next year every plant will send out one or 
more branches that will bear pineapples, and this may go on for 
seven years, but the grower usually plows up the field after the fifth 
year. 



183 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TE S. 

The ocean beach south of Indian River Inlet is called Hutchin- 
son's Island, and has a few inhabitants and a life-saving station. 
Santa Lucia Inlet, or Gilbert's Bar, is a tolerable opening into Santa 
Lucia Sound, at the mouth of St. Lucie River. Below this inlet 
(which closes at intervals, but is now the best south of St. Augustine) 
stretches Jupiter Island for some twenty miles to Jupiter Inlet. The 
lagoon between Jupiter Island and the main land is called Jupiter 
River, and expands southwardly into Hobe Sound. The railroad 
skirts its margin, and has stations at Alicia, Gomez, Hobe Sound, etc. 

On the northern shore of Jupiter Inlet is the lighthouse, a black- 
banded tower carrying a light of the first order, 146 feet above sea- 
level. It was built in i860, but was not sustained during the Civil 
War. Attached to it is a government weather station, and a tele- 
graph line to Titusville. This is the southernmost signal station in 
the Union, and is of great service in reporting the approach of storms 
from the West Indies. It also signals to certain passing ships which 
habitually sail near this coast, and reports them. A life-saving 
station, with a full crew on duty all the year round, is close by, and 
refuge-houses, provided with a single watcher in charge of a whale- 
boat and rescue-apparatus, are scattered along these beaches all the 
way down the coast. Here, also, is the landing of the submarine 
cable to Nassau. 

The railway station and settlement of West Jupiter is on the 
mainland, at the crossing of a westerly arm of Jupiter River. This 
point was occupied by United States troops during the Seminole War, 
and was the scene of two sharp engagements in January, 1838. It was 
the terminus of the run from Titusville of the Indian River steam- 
boats, but these have been discontinued, and there is now scarcely 
any stopping-place at Jupiter, since Vail's steamboat " Chatta- 
hoochee," formerly moored at this station to serve as a hotel during 
the winter, especially for gunners and fishermen, has been moved to 
West Palm Beach. From the Inlet a narrow-gauge railway runs 
down behind the beach ridge eight miles to Juno, on Lake Worth, 
but its trains have been discontinued. 

The train continues along the mainland, passing Juno, the embryo 
county seat of Dade, the Hotel Riviera (50 guests, $3), the Cocoanut 
Grove ($3), and Lake Worth House (100 guests, $4), and reaching 
the shores of Lake Worth at West Palm Beach, 300 miles south of 
Jacksonville, crosses over to the grounds of the Hotel Poinciana and 
Palm Beach Inn on the new bridge. 

Lake Worth is a continuation of the long, narrow, shallow lagoons 
northward, fed by the tides through two inlets. It is twenty-two 



FLORIDA. 183 

miles long, about a mile wide, and from six to ten feet deep in the 
channel, permitting steamboats of good proportion to sail upon it. 
As the trade-wind is here felt, and the Gulf Stream is close inshore, 
the climate has a continuous warmth, tempered by the sea-breeze in 
summer, which makes it a most agreeable place to live in winter; 
and for several years past Northern families have been gathering 
there, building cottages, and supporting small hotels, while the culti- 
vation of tropical fruits has been well begun. 

"Once on the shore of Lake Worth," we are assured, "the 
traveler seems to be in another country from the one through which 
he has been passing. The shores of the lake are clothed with palms, 
and here is the home of the cocoanut. On these shores one has the 
first sight of a grove of tall, slender trunks and green crowns, in full 
bearing. Great bunches of green husked nuts hang from the crown, 
and the gray pennants, of the great dried blossoms tasseled among 
the fruit, rustle and whisper in the sea-breeze. Often in the younger 
groves the overhanging leaves, perfect as giant fern fronds, arch the 
pathway in a single sweep of twenty feet." Another enthusiast 
declares that " there is about this region, whether from the balminess 
of the air, warm but invigorating, soft but bracing, or from the 
marvelous clearness of the water, the wondrous cloud effects, the 
tropical vegetation, or all combined — it is impossible to tell — but 
there is a sort of spell about this locality. It holds and enthralls one 
with a constantly growing fascination. It is, as it were, a mental 
quicksand. The longer one remains, the more deeply and hopelessly 
does he become fixed in his attachment, and the less becomes the 
possibility of ever withdrawing from its influences. " 

The Royal Poinciana, on Palm Beach, is a new hotel in colonial 
architecture, six stories in height, 455 feet long, having an office 
rotunda 100 feet long by 85 feet wide, out of which a grand staircase 
leads to a music room where a thousand persons may sit, a dining 
hall that will seat 900 guests, and over 500 sleeping rooms, all con- 
necting, and 125 having private bath rooms attached. The orna- 
ments and service are on a scale to fit these grand proportions; and 
the lowest rate of charge per day is $5. 

The Palm Beach is a still newer hotel, situated within the Poin- 
ciana's park, and intended to receive the overflow of that luxurious 
house at somewhat less rates ($3 to $4). It has every interior comfort 
required by travelers, but not quite so much gold and glitter; and its 
patrons can take advantage of all the outdoor enjoyments open to 
their " sweller " brethern of the Pomcia7ia, and many indoor ones 
beside, as both hotels are under the same management. 

These hotels now own and occupy the earlier and highly culti- 
vated McCormick estate. All that was possible of the old gardens 



184 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

have been preserved, with new beauties added by the art of the land- 
scape gardener; and the whole illuminated by electricity. A yacht 
club-house and other conveniences have been erected on the lake 
shore; while elaborate arrangements for winter surf -bathing have 
been made, including a great inclosed pool for women and children 
who prefer the quieter method. Steamboats, launches, and sailing 
craft, in the greatest variety, ply upon the lake, and an immense 
ocean pier is being built out to deep water, at which ocean steamers 
may land passengers. 

This region escaped nearly altogether the damaging effects of the 
terrible frost of February, 1895, which injured no orange or related 
trees in Dade County, and only partly killed the crop of pineapples. 

The railroad south to Biscayne Bay has its terminus at Miauii, 
an old fortified post of the army dating from 1838. This is a truly 
tropical region, at the western end of the Florida Reefs, and the 
cocoanut is the commonest tree. It has been a favorite winter head- 
quarters for yachtsmen for many years, and is full of interest for the 
hunter and naturalist, but as yet is very little civilized and has only 
a sparse population. Doubtless the advent of the railway, and the 
realization of the projected lines of steamers from Miami to the Baha- 
mas and Key West, will lead to the opening of hotels. A weekly 
service of first-class steamers to Nassau is promised to begin early in 
1896. The following most recent account is condensed from an 
illustrated article by C. R. Dodge in Scribner's Magazine for 
March, 1894. 

Biscayne Bay is about forty miles long, by five or six miles wide, 
and the mainland between it and the Everglades is hardly as wide as 
the bay itself. The bay is only navigable for boats of light draught. 
Its proximity to the Gulf Stream, makes the water as well as the air 
warm, tempered by the prevailing easterly breeze. At Cocoanut 
Grove, the largest settlement, is the headquarters of the yacht club, 
and the home of the well-known writer of boys' stories and books of 
travel, Mr. Kirk Munroe. It has a fair hotel, and in the winter 
months the society of the place is delightful, for with the cultivated 
people, who are now identified with the locality, there are always a 
few strangers from the North, who come down here to lead a dolce- 
far-nietite existence in this dreamland, all unmindful of the bhzzards 
that are sweeping over the wintery North._ One soon becomes 
accustomed to the absence of fresh beef and ice, though fresh veni- 
son and sea turtle more than make up for the lack of the former, 
and the necessity for the latter is soon overlooked. The roads here 
are mere trails through the bush, the waterways being the usual 
highways for travel and transportation. . . . This portion of 
Florida has been filling up very rapidly in the past three or four 
years, and now there are few if any homestead lands on the four-mile 
strip not occupied. On the bay shore, land has risen rapidly in 



FLORIDA. 185 

value, and it would be hard to say at how many hundred dollars an 
acre choice situations are held. 

Miami is at the mouth of the Miami River. Just across the river 
is the site of old Fort Dallas, which was conspicuous in the Seminole 
wars, and whose clearings are now the home of an energetic 
Northern family, and are "an object lesson to many a plodding 
homesteader." The Miami is one of the principal outlets of the 
Everglades, and though sluggish at its mouth, it tumbles over the 
coral rock near its source in splendid rapids. The trees in places 
almost arch over the water, and the bottom presents " a kaleidoscopic 
picture of many-colored grasses and aquatic vegetation. " At the head 
of the rapids is a large, shallow lake, " stretching away toward sunset, 
as far as the eye could reach — only a vision of blue waters, green 
isles, and vast areas of sedge grass or reeds." Arch Creek, at the 
head of Biscayne Bay, is a similar but smaller stream. 

South Florida. 

The great region, comprising fully a half of the peninsular part of 
Florida, South of the Orange Belt Railroad* and west of the narrow 
East Coast ridge, is known, in a general way, as South Florida. 
It includes Orange, Osceola, Polk, Hillsborough, Manatee, De Soto, 
Lee, and Monroe counties, and the western parts of Brevard and 
Dade counties, where these overlap the Everglades. The greater 
part of this area, from the middle of De Soto County south, con- 
sists of The Everglades, a vast expanse of watery morass, broken by 
occasional patches of more or less forested dry lands, which is only 
partly explored, and is thus far useful only to the wandering 
Indians who inhabit it here and there, farming the islets or " keys." 
There are a few settlements along the western coast, on the Florida 
Keys (p. 200), and along the Kissimmee and Caloosahatchee rivers; 
and the edges of the true Everglades beyond are penetrated by 
occasional parties of hunters, who can find there bears, pumas, wild- 
cats, deer, and the smaller animals and birds sought by sportsmen 

* It should be remembered that many of the railways, here mentioned, for 
the sake of geographical clearness, by their original and familiar names or nick- 
names, are members of some one or other of the transportation organizations 
which divide the railroads and steamships of the State. In Southern "and 
Western Florida every railroad of importance that is not a part of, or controlled 
by, the Florida Central & Peninsular Company, belongs to the Plant System, 
which now includes the following lines: Savannah, Florida & Western Ry.; 
Charleston & Savannah Ry.; South Florida Division of S. F. & W. Ry.; Brunswick 
& Western Rd. ; Alabama Midland Ry.; Silver Springs, Ocala & Gulf Ry.; 
Sanford & St. Petersburg Rd.; Florida Southern Ry.; St, Johns & Lake EustisRd. 



186 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

and naturalists, but, for the ordinary tourist, the Everglades are an 
inaccessible and unattractive waste of swamps. 

The northern border of the district, however, in Orange, Osceola, 
Polk, and Hillsborough counties, has lately attracted a large amount 
of immigration from all parts of the Union, and proves to be a highly 
fertile and salubrious region. These settlers have prepared the way 
for winter residents, who now flock thither during the colder months 
of the year and find plentiful accommodations and pleasure places. 

Generally speaking, the country is a wooded plain, but a few feet 
above the level of the Gulf of Mexico, having many diversities of 
woodland and soil, and dotted with innumerable lakes. The drain- 
age of many of these is not perceptible; the excess over evaporation 
doubtless sinks into the porous soil, and through the loose coralline 
under-rocks to burst up here and there in the huge, changeless 
springs for which Florida is famous. As these coralline rocks are 
composed of organic remains, they contain sulphates and other 
mineral constituents easily dissolved out by the carbonic acid which 
impregnates rain water, and tincture the springs with these constitu- 
ents. As lime is the prevalent mineral of the rocks, the spring 
water is usually hard, and the chemical action involved is often 
sufficient to heat this water. The lakes and springs are most num- 
erous in Lake County, and constitute a special district described 
on page 206 et seq. 

South Florida is penetrated by several railways, and may be 
reached by the St. Johns River steamers to Sanford, or by steam- 
ship from New Orleans or Mobile to Tampa. It is also reached by the 
Florida Central & Peninsular Rd., and is traversed in all directions 
by the Plant System, in which are combined the Orange Belt Line, 
Sanford & St. Petersburg Rd., the Florida Southern, the Savannah, 
Florida & Western, and several smaller lines in this region. 

The Plant System runs through trains between Jacksonville and 
Tampa, and carries sleeping cars to and from New York and Tampa, 
in continuation of Route 13, 13d; and to and from Cincinnati, in con- 
tinuation of Route 19. All these trains leave the Union station in 
Jacksonville morning and evening, daily, and reach Tampa in about 
eight hours. Some go over the line of the Jacksonville, Tampa & 
Key West Railroad, which passes up the western bank of the St. 
Johns, through Orange Park, Magnolia, and Green Cove Springs to 
Palatka (p. 143), then crosses to the western bank and proceeds south 
through Fruitland (p. 146) to Sanford, 125 miles from Jacksonville. 
Sanford (p. 150) is also the terminus of the steamboat route from 
Jacksonville, already described, and is closely connected with the 



FLORIDA. 187 

east coast by the railway between New Sm3rrna and Blue Springs 
(p. 149), and between Titusville and Enterprise (p. 150), and ferry 
across Lake Monroe from Enterprise. By these means it is no longer 
difficult to cross the southern part of the State. Sanford is, there- 
fore, the principal point of entrance to South Florida, where are 
stationed the general agents of the railway land companies and 
other large owners of rural property. These through trains continue 
through Orlando and Kissimmee to Tampa and Punta Gorda. 

Other Plant System trains are run to Tampa from Jacksonville 
over the line of the Savannah, Florida & Western, via Palatka, 
Hawthorne, and Ocala ; and still others from the northwest, via 
Dupont or Thom.asville, Live Oak, Gainesville, and Ocala. 

Lastly, the Florida Central & Peninsular runs through trains from 
Jacksonville over its own line via Baldwin Junction, Ocala, and 
Wildwood, bringing sleeping-cars from New York via the New 
Florida Short Line (Route 14), through to Tampa. 

Sanford will form a convenient starting point for an account of 
this region, since it has three roads radiating into South Florida. 
From this city Lake Jessup is reached by a branch of the Plant Sys- 
tem, which runs southward to and around the head of the lake to 
Oviedo and Lake Charm on the Econlockhatchie River, a consider- 
able tributary of the St. Johns, which drains all the southeastern 
quarter of Orange County. This road is joined at Tuskawilla by 
the east and west line from Apopka; and at Oviedo by a line south- 
west to Winter Park and Orlando. From Oviedo wagon roads lead 
north to Lake Harney and southeast up the river valley. 

West from Sanford a branch of the Jacksonville, Tampa & Key 
West Rd. leads along the northern border of Orange County to 
Tavares and the Lake District (p. 207), thirty miles distant. At 
Paola, six miles from Sanford, it crosses the Orange Belt Line, which 
extends from Sanford, via Monroe, on the St. Johns, to St. Peters- 
burg, a port on the Pinellas Peninsula (p. 201). Near Paola, upon a 
ridge 130 feet above the level of Lake Monroe, stands a new and 
commodious hotel, Pi7ie Crest Inn ($2.50), overlooking Lake Lillian, 
and near several other lakes, connected by excellent wagon roads. 
Boating, island picnics, lawn tennis, bowling, riding, and quail- 
shooting, are the local amusements. South of Paola, upon the 
Orange Belt Rd., are numerous small resort stations among small 
lakes and pine-clad ridges, such as Island Lake, Glen Ethel, and 
Palm Springs, where the railroad from Apopka to Tuskawilla inter- 



188 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

sects this line. Northward, at the headwaters of Wekiva Creek, 
is Clay Spring, with a small hotel (Tonyawatha, $2), and a spring 
" across which strong swimmers strive in vain to pass, so powerful 
is the upward rush of water through a dark chasm in the rock." The 
next southerly station, Toronto, is at the crossing of the Florida Cen- 
tral & Peninsular line to Orlando (p. i8g). Its first station north is 
the junction point Apopka (Lake, $3; Central, $2), on the eastern 
shore of Lake Apopka, near which (at Plymouth) is the Lake Stan- 
dish House (I3). Lake Apopka lies upon the western border of the 
county, is nearly circular, some ten miles in diameter and nearly 
girdled by settlements and orange growers. The railroad follows its 
southern shores, passing the stations of Clarcona, Oakland, and Kil- 
larney, at each of which are hotels overlooking the lake, in which the 
fishing is particularly good. To the southward is Johns Lake. 

The western shore of Lake Apopka is skirted by a line of the Plant 
System coming south from Tavares to junctions with the Orange 
Belt road at Oakland, and at Mineola and Clermont, in the midst of 
the small lakes expanding out of the Palatlakaha River, which 
empties into Lake Harris, some fifteen miles northward; these lakes 
are navigated by steamboats from Clermont. From that town west 
the road runs through a sparsely settled region, crossing Summit and 
Pasco counties, and then bending south to Tarpon Springs and the 
coast of the Penellas Peninsula (p. 201). 

The main line from Sanford to Tampa is that of the Plant Sys- 
tem, and along this are strung the principal towns and winter resorts 
of the region. Goldwood, Belair, and Longwood (Hotel Waltham, 
$2.50) are the first stations out of Sanford, and at the last-mentioned 
is the Florida Midland Railway to and from Waco, Windermere, 
Gotha, Ocoee, Clarcona, Apopka, and Palm Springs. Just below, 
thirteen miles south of Sanford, is the winter resort at Altaino7ite 
Springs. A pretty village surrounds the station, connected with the 
large hotel and cottages at the springs by a tramway which extends 
along a broad avenue upon a ridge covered with pine trees and over- 
looking several lakes. 

The altitude here is about ninety feet above Lake Monroe, this 
being the watershed between the St. Johns and the interior lakes. 
The soil is very loose and dry, the woods open and breezy. The 
w^ater is pure, and the air as dry as that of Minnesota. Three miles 
and a half distant are the Shepherd Sulphur Springs, where bath 
houses, etc., have been arranged. 

T/ie Altamonte Hotel ($4) has been open for fifteen years, and 



FLORIDA. 189 

stands, amid highly cultivated grounds, facing Lake Orienta and 
surrounded by a pine forest concealing innumerable lakes, and here 
and there broken by orange groves and the winter homes of Northern 
visitors. The hotel will contain 150 guests, is heated by steam and 
open fires, lighted by gas, and provided with every means of health 
and enjoyment. Its habitues are largely Bostonians. 

A mile farther south is Lake Maitlaiid {Park, $2.50), the winter 
home and site of the Memorial Church of Bishop Whipple, which has 
been a favorite place with its friends for many years. This intro- 
duces the traveler to another celebrated center of health-seeking — 

Winter Park, where a scattered village borders upon the shores 
of Lake Osceola and several others connected by more or less pass- 
able waterways, all small but deep, hard-bottomed, and sparkling. 
There are a dozen or more of these charming ponds within the sight 
of the hotel roofs, and boats or canoes can pass from one to the 
other among them all. As the place was settled by New Englanders, 
comforts were at once devised — a street-car line to connect the hotels 
and scattered wnnter residences with the railway station, which stands 
in a ten-acre park ; churches, school houses, circulating library, and 
village stores ; and for those who prefer pedestrian exercise, plank 
walks have been made — a great blessing in this sandy land. On 
the edge of the town is Rollins College, a co-educational Christian 
institution of high repute, with handsome buildings on a bluff over- 
looking Lake Virginia. The first building here was the Rogers 
House, which is still open and an old favorite ; terms, $2.50 ; capacity, 
sixty guests. More recently has been opened the new and splendidly 
furnished Seminole (400 guests; $5), which ranks among the foremost 
winter hotels in Florida. The improvements at Winter Park and in 
its neighborhood are largely owned by an association, who have sold 
and continue to sell town lots or wild land, farms, and orange groves, 
and the settlers in the neighborhood and throughout this part of 
Orange County are mainly from New England, There is excellent 
quail-shooting and fresh-water fishing all about the town; and deer 
may be obtained not far away. The county seat is four miles below 
Winter Park, at 

Orlando (pop., 3,500), the social and political center of South 
Florida. Its situation, in sandy pine woods, seventy-eight feet above 
the sea and amid countless small lakes, is much like that of Winter 
Park, but the place is busier. The county buildings, banks, factories, 
fruit-packing houses, and others give a town-like air unusual to the 



190 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

region. Brick and plank sidewalks and street cars make locomotion 
pleasant ; and there is unlimited boating upon the dozen or more con- 
necting lakes within or close to the corporate limits. The town is lit 
by gas. This is a terminus of the Florida Central & Peninsular Rd. , 
which runs sleeping-cars to this point from Jacksonville, and gives 
local access to Lake Apopka, twelve miles northwest, and to the lake 
district northward. Another branch of this road runs northeast via 
Winter Park to the St. Johns Valley at Oviedo and Lake Charm. 

This region is settled largely by English people, with many from 
the Northern States, and a sprinkling of European immigrants. The 
latter have gone into grape-culture, and vineyards are a feature of the 
locality. Orange groves are numerous also. Vegetables are raised 
in great quantities, and all the gardens grow more or less bananas, 
pineapples, Japanese persimmons (kaki), guavas, etc. All sorts of 
supplies and guides for hunting and fishing expeditions can be pro- 
cured here. 

Hotels are numerous and good at Orlando. The San Juan ($3) 
is a large house, under Northern management, open only in winter. 
The Magnolia, Tremont, Arcade, and others charge $2 to $2.50 a day. 
Most of them are brick buildings, lighted by gas and supplied with all 
modern hotel conveniences. 

Southward from Orlando the road passes Troy, Jessamine (on 
Lake Conway), Pine Castle, and other small woodland stations to 
Kissimmee (eighteen miles). 

"This town," says Norton, "is practically at the head of river 
navigation from the Gulf of Mexico, by way of the Kissimmee River, 
Lake Okeechobee, and the Caloosahatchee River. It is situated at 
the head of Lake Tohopekaliga (' the lake of the cow-pens ') a fine 
body of water twelve miles long and of an irregular shape, nearly six 
miles wide at certain points, and with numerous islands. Its greatest 
depth is fifteen feet, and its normal height above tide-water, 64. 59 feet. 
Five miles northeast of Kissimmee is East Tohopekaliga Lake, about 
five miles wide, irregularly square in shape, and with its level slightly 
higher than that of its sister lake, with which it is connected by a 
canal. These two lakes are at the head of what may be termed the 
Kissimmee system, including Lake Cypress (sixty-two feet above tide- 
water). Lake Hatchinea (60.23 feet above tide-water), and Lake Kis- 
simmee (58.07 feet at tide-water). All these lakes were naturally con- 
nected by channels little better than marshes ; but these have been 
enlarged by the operations of the Okeechobee Drainage Company, 
and it is now possible for steam launches and sail boats to go through 
to the head of the Kissimmee River, a fine stream flowing southward 
fifty miles, ' as the crow flies,' to Lake Okeechobee. The actual dis- 
tance following the tortuous river is not accurately known. The 
drainage works have lowered the level of the upper lakes, rendering 



FLORIDA. 191 

fit for cultivation wide tracts of rich land previously unavailable. 
Sugar cane has been planted in large quantities along the lake shores, 
and early vegetables, notably cauliflowers, have been successfully 
raised and shipped to the Northern markets. 

" Kissimmee is a convenient headquarters for sportsmen. It is a 
frontier town, with no settlements whatever to the south and south- 
east. There are, in fact, occasional cabins and camps throughout the 
region that appears on the maps uninhabited ; but in effect it is a 
wilderness intersected with lakes and water courses navigable for 
small boats and crossed by trails practicable for teams. Guides, boats, 
horses, and camp equipage may be hired at Kissimmee. There is no 
fixed schedule -of prices [the ordinary price for saddle horses is $2.50 
a day, single te xms $3. 50, and guides $1 or more a day] , but favorable 
arrangements can be made through the proprietor of the Tropical 
Hotel. The hiadwaters of the St. Johns River, running north, are 
from twenty to thirty miles to the eastward. * * * It is possible 
to descend to the outlet of Lake Kissimmee, and thence carry over, 
by way of Lakes Marion and Jackson, to the Upper St. Johns, which 
is easily navigable to Lake Monroe." 

The St. Cloud Sugar Belt Rd. (Plant System) comes south to 
this point from Apopka, passing along the eastern shore of Lake 
Apopka through Clarcona (p. 188), and thence south past Villa Nova, 
Ocoee, Winderinere, Harperville, beside Lake Butler and Engle- 
wood. From Kissimmee it extends east around the south shore of 
East Tohopekaliga Lake to Runnymede and Narcoossee, giving 
access to Otto (or Preston), Alligator, and several other large lakes 
in that direction. 

The Tropical ($3), at Kissimmee, is a modern and convenient 
hotel, now under new management, and largely frequented by winter 
visitors from Northern Georgia. It has a special launch for the trip 
through the lakes and canals to Lake Okeechobee, which is an 
experience no one should miss, and offers special facilities for visit- 
ing the great mills and plantations of the Disston Sugar Company. 

From Kissimmee south the low and more level and watery plain 
of Southwest Florida is traversed in a southwesterly direction. 
Between Haines City and Bartow Junction (Wahneta post office) 
the train crosses the imperceptible watershed between the drainage 
northward and ^eastward, and that south and west into the Gulf 
of Mexico. Here a region of innumicrable lakes is entered, and 
at Auburndale a westerly course is taken out of Polk County into 
Hillsborough. 

Plant City (Tropical, $2; Robinson, $2) is at the intersection of 
the Florida Central & Peninsular Rd.'s line to Tampa, which takes 



193 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

a more southerly course than the Plant System. At Mango, on the 
latter, a spur goes north to Lake Thonotassa (Grand View, $2.50), a 
beautiful spot in the midst of orange groves. Ninety-one miles 
west of Plant City, the road reaches Tampa, 115 miles from Sanford. 
(For Tampa and its neighborhood, see pp. 195 to 199.) 

The Southern Coast and Everglades are reached by railroads to 
Charlotte Harbor, and by steamboats on the Kissimmee (p. 190) 
and Caloosahatchee rivers. 

The rail route is by the Plant System, which reaches the terminus, 
Punta Gorda, on Charlotte Harbor, by two routes: (i) Its main line 
from the north via Ocala to Lakeland; and (2) fror'i Sanford via 
Bartow Junction and Bartow, where this route unites with that via 
Lakeland — a village near Lake Parker, with two hoiels (Tremont, 
$3; Commercial, $2). 

Lake/and (Tremont, $2; boarding-houses) is on high ground 
(206 feet above the sea) in the center of a fine region for deer, and 
among lakes filled with perch, bass, and trout. 

Soitth from. Bartow Jujictioii the railroad (Florida Southern, 
Plant System) winds among dozens of large ponds — in Florida 
always called "lakes," regardless of size — the lands between which 
are highly valued for vegetable farming and fruit-raising, since 
this region is below any harmful frost on record, and serves equally 
well for both northern and southern plants, so that the farmer who 
sows judiciously may reap some kind of a crop every month in the 
year. At Florence Villa is an excellent hotel (I2). 

Bartow (pop., 2,500; Bartow, Hotel Carpenter, Wright's, each 
$2) is the county seat of Polk, and a town of considerable size, 
actively engaged in mining, shipping, and supplying phosphate 
fertilizers, and in agriculture. Besides its favorable position at the 
junction of the two railways, it has a third road running in an 
easterly course through the phosphate-producing district to a junc- 
tion with the Tampa road at Winston, west of Lakeland. Bartow 
was first settled in 1857, when a stockade called Fort Blount was 
built there. The situation is healthful, and the town boasts an 
academy, called the Summerlin Institute, which has about 300 pupils, 
and is of high repute throughout the State. 

Fort Meade was established as a military post, in 1849, and 
retained as such until 1857. This gave protection to the cattle 
drivers who principally inhabited the district, and a town grew up 
there, now numbering several hundred people, and still having an 



FLORIDA. 193 

active trade. Lately many English and Northern farmers have 
settled near it. This is an excellent headquarters for sportsmen. 

Polk County is left at Bowling Green, eighteen miles below Bar- 
tow, and De Soto County is entered. This is a new region, promising 
much for the cattle drover, farmer, and fruit raiser, for anything and 
everything, almost, seems to grow there, but having little to attract 
the tourist to its wide levels of pine woods, palmetto scrub, shallow 
lakes, and savannas. The county seat is at Arcadia. Fort Ogden, 
a few miles below, is the oldest settlement. This county was organ- 
ized in 1888 and is about the size of the State of Connecticut. It 
has 8,000 population and a jail that cost $12,260. It is generally 
level, with much open grass land, which has been the grazing ground 
of small semi-wild cattle for many years, and has all sorts of soil. 
The eastern half of the county is drained by a system of lakes lead- 
ing into the larger Lake Istokpoga and the vast swamps connected 
with Okeechobee, while the western and better half of the county 
drains into Peace River, which flows from Lake Hancock, above 
Bartow, into the head of Charlotte Harbor. 

The railway closely follows the course of Peace River, whose 
valley contains extensive beds of "pebble phosphates," which are 
mined at various points. 

Punta Gorda, at the head of the deep bay called Charlotte Har- 
bor, is the terminus, and bids fair to become a town and seaport of 
importance. It is the calling place (weekly) of the Southern Pacific 
Company's steamers between New Orleans, Key West, and Havana, 
and thus gives the shortest sea-ferriage to Cuba. The shipping 
business, especially of the local phosphates, calls here many foreign 
as well as domestic ships, and long piers have been built out to deep 
water for their accommodation. These are excellent stands for fish- 
ing, whence bluefish, Spanish mackerel, and all the other biting fish 
of the region may be taken with rod and line. Bolder anglers may 
test their skill here in catching tarpon, for which specially built boats 
and tackle may be procured. This is one of the best places for tar- 
pon, and for sport generally, both afloat and ashore. There is a local 
yacht club. The Ptnita Gorda ($4) is a large, substantial hotel, facing 
the beach across a lawn of Bermuda grass, and is open in winter. 
Several other smaller and less expensive houses supply the commer- 
cial needs of the town. Sleeping-cars reach it over the Plant System. 

Charlotte Harbor is wide and shallow, interrupted by sand-bars, 
oyster reefs, and islands, and sending long indentations into the low 
shore lands. Small settlements of cattlemen, spongers, turtlers, 
fishermen, and Indians are scattered along its coast, and weird tales 
are told of Spanish adventurers and outlawed pirates who have 



104 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

hidden, and fought, and caroused in the nooks and corners of these 
shores. The bay is guarded from the outer gulf by a barrier reef of 
islands, stretching from the mainland at Casey's Point down along 
the outside of Lemon Bay, through Gasparilla Island, north of the 
main entrance, and La Costa Island, south of it, to Sanibel Island, 
which incloses San Carlos Bay. Inside of this outer barrier is Big 
Pine Island, at the southern extremity of which is a settlement called 
St. James City and the San Carlos Hotel ($3). The hotel company is 
endeavoring to form a colony of winter residents at this point. The 
hotel and all buildings on these islands are elevated on piles, for a 
summer rarely passes when some hurricane does not sweep the tides 
so high that the whole surface of every island is under water until 
the storm "blows over." One of the compensations of having a 
part of Florida reach the " pineapple belt " is that it also penetrates 
the zone of hurricanes. 

The Caloosahatchee River empties into San Carlos Bay through 
a wide estuary filled with mangrove islands. This stream is navi- 
gable for a long distance, and trading stations (with the Indians and 
cowboys) and military posts have been in existence far up its course 
for many years. More recently the Disston Company, which has pur- 
chased an immense tract of land adjoining Lake Okeechobee, have 
set out extensive sugar plantations above Kissimmee and undertaken 
plans for drainage of wide areas of overflowed lands. They have 
cleared out the channel, connected its upper waters with Lake Okee- 
chobee by canals, and thus made possible continuous steam navigation 
from Kissimmee (p. 190) to the mouth of the Caloosahatchee. This 
river has a strong current since the lake water has been admitted, 
and is wonderfully clear and cool. The banks are high and firm, and 
well overgrown with oak and palmetto. Punt a Rassa is a small and 
somewhat rude port town on the barren shore of San Carlos Bay just 
south of the river mouth. It has long been a cattle-shipping point, 
and is also important as the landing place of the Cuban cable, and a 
station of the U. S. Weather Service, warning us of hurricanes. 
This will be the port of the Florida Central's extension southward 
from Plant City, and may then become of interest to tourists. At 
present it is a rough place, visited only by anglers who find the sea 
rod-fishing as good here if not better than at any other accessible 
point on the Gulf Coast. There Is a rude but decent hotel, the Tar- 
pon ($2). The tarpon grounds are within easy rowing distance; and 
in the same places may be taken every game fish of the region, 



FLORIDA. 195 

including great sharks that come in to prey upon them — remarks 
that apply equally well to San Carlos, of course. A dozen miles (by 
water) above Punta Rassa is the pretty village of Fort Myers (pop., 
800; Hendry, $2), which has survived, as a beautiful tropical town, 
the military post founded there after the close of the Seminole War 
as the principal station in South Florida. Many kinds of palms, the 
giant bamboo, and nearly every sort of tropical plant crowd the old 
gardens and overhang the quiet streets. 

Daily steamboats (in winter) connect Fort Myers, Punta Rassa, 
San Carlos, and Naples, with Punta Gorda and Port Tampa, carrying 
mail and passengers. There is also a stage line from Punta Gorda 
to Fort Myers — twenty-four miles. Naples is a winter settlement 
of Northern people, on the mainland, some twenty-five miles south of 
Punta Rassa, which may develop into a place of importance, very 
advantageously situated for health and pleasure. It is reached by a 
daily steamer from Punta Gorda, or by driving from Punta Rassa 
(28 m)., or from Fort Myers (38 m). The Hotel Naples ($3) is 
open from February to May. 

" South of Charlotte Harbor," to quote the Handbook of Florida, 
" the coast is, in the main, uninhabitable, low and swampy, over- 
grown with mangroves, and, in short, in process of being turned into 
dry land by the slow methods of nature. The Big Cypress Swamp 
borders the coast and merges into the Everglades inland, and into 
mangrove keys toward the Gulf. Here, as elsewhere, great volumes 
of water flow outward from the Everglades, and there are several 
goodly streams known to hunters, but whose precise location has 
never been determined. * * * Navigation along this coast 
is very difficult, even for small boats. The Government is now 
engaged in making complete surveys, where none have heretofore 
been attempted. " 

Le7non Bay is an extension of Charlotte Harbor, northward from 
its entrance, behind Gasparilla Island and a long sandspit, broken 
here and there by shallow "passes." Grove City is a little settle- 
ment on the bay shore, with a new winter hotel called The Gasparilla 
($3). Myakka River is near by for inland fishing and boating. Sea- 
fishing can be had, and there is the best of shooting in the neighbor- 
hood. This hotel is reached by daily steamer from Punta Gorda to 
Myakka City, and stages. 

The Tampa District. 

The region about Tampa Bay has been greatly enlarged in its 
capabilities for the comfort and entertainment of winter residents 



106 G UIDE TO SO U THE A STERN S TA TE S. 

and tourists during the past few years, as well as in its commercial 
importance. Both these advances have been made possible by 
reason of the natural advantages offered by Tampa Bay, which pene- 
trates the coast for many miles, dividing at the head into two 
branches, that on the east called Hillsborough Bay, and that on the 
west (the larger) called Old Tampa Bay. At the head of Hillsbor- 
ough Bay is the city of Tampa; on the point between this and Old 
Tampa Bay lies Port Tampa; and the peninsula west of Tampa Bay 
and between it and the Gulf of Mexico is Pinellas. Tampa Bay is 
remarkably deep and open, admitting vessels of twenty feet 
draught. Near the shores are shallows, of which yachtsmen should 
beware; but the dangerous points are well buoyed. Northward, at 
its mouth, the bay extends into a coast-group of mangrove islands 
and oyster reefs; and southward it communicates with the broad 
estuary of Manatee River and the sheltered lagoon of Sarasota Bay. 

Historically, Tampa is one of the oldest districts of the State. It 
is believed that the " Bahia de la Cruz," where de Narvaez landed in 
April, 1528, for the first European exploration of this western coast 
of Florida was Clearwater Harbor (p. 202). Eleven years later (May, 
1539) Hernandez De Soto entered Tampa Bay, which he named Bay 
of the Holy Spirit (Espiritu Santo), with a force of 570 men, having all 
the horses, armor, and accouterments of a medieval force. Landing 
(probably) at Phillipi's Point, near the head of Old Tampa Bay, he 
organized his expedition and departed on that remarkable march 
northward, which passed through the whole length of Florida, and 
then west until the Mississippi was discovered. De Soto has been a 
name to conjure by in this region ever since, as Ponce de Leon is upon 
the east coast. The great number of domiciliary mounds and shell 
heaps (kitchen-middens) all along these coasts and river banks shows 
that De Soto's account of the teeming Indian population was not 
exaggerated; and makes more reprehensible the outrageous violence 
done to the aborigines by these and many later, and even more 
ruffianly, explorers: It is no wonder the natives killed the priests and 
party led by Father Luis Canca de Barbastro to Clearwater Harbor 
in 1549. This was the end of any serious attempt at colonization or 
exploration of this region of coast ; though tradition tells of number- 
less haunts of pirates and buccaneers among the islands and intricate 
channels toward the southern extremity of the peninsula; but Spanish 
settlements were perfected farther north, from Apalachee Bay west- 
ward, and especially at Pensacola. The east coast absorbed all the 
progressive forces, and none but a few wanderers knew much about 
the gulf side of the peninsula until the Indian troubles following 
the War of 181 2 compelled the Government, as soon as it came 
into possession of Florida (in 18 19), to attend to it. A military post 
was established at the head of Hillsborough Bay called Fort Brooke, 
and it became very important, a few years later, as the base of sup- 



FLORIDA. 197 

plies for the operations against the Seminoles. Its site, in the 
southerly part of the city, is now an attractive park. The safety 
assured by the strong garrison and occasional war vessels brought 
here a settlement of refugees, traders, and speculators, forming 
a snug little town by the time quiet had been restored; and the fact 
that good roads had been built from here to various interior points 
by the army, and that the habit of coming to this place for supplies 
had been formed, gave it strength to continue after the garrison had 
been withdrawn and Fort Brooke had become the well-laid-out and 
populous seaport of Tampa. It was possessed by Confederates dur- 
ing the war, who placed small garrisons here, at Fort Myers and 
elsewhere along this coast. Now and then a Union gunboat would 
come in, shell the garrison out of their slight defenses, land a few 
men for a little while, and then depart. The coast had no strategic 
value to either side, but the Union navy was watchful against 
blockade runners. After the Civil War a considerable business with 
the West Indies grew up, and the town became a local market, and 
the calling place of coasting steamers. Business here received 
a great impetus upon the discovery of phosphate, rock, and earths, so 
valuable as a mineral fertilizer, in adjoining counties, and by the 
consequent extension of railways to a deep water terminus. 

The City of Tampa (pop.. 8,000; Tampa Bay Hotel, $5; Almeria, 
$3.50; The Plant, $3.50; Hotel de Soto, $3) is not only reached by 
the Plant System from the north and from Sanford (p. 150), joining 
at Lakeland, and bringing sleeping-cars from New York, by way 
of the Atlantic Coast Line, and from Louisville, via the Lookout 
Mountain Route (No. 19, p. 93) and Dupont; and from Jacksonville 
via Sanford. The proper terminus is at Port Tampa. The city itself 
is also the terminus of the Florida Central & Peninsular Railroad, 
bringing sleeping-cars from New York by way of the New Florida 
Short Line (Route 14, p. 53), and parlor cars from Jacksonville. 

Tampa has street-car lines, electric lights and gas, water works, 
paved streets, stores that carry all sorts of goods, finely shaded 
residence streets, and generally the appearance and conveniences of 
a flourishing Florida town. It has a large commerce, and is an 
extensive importer of Cuban tobacco and manufacturer of cigars, 
whereby a large part of the citizens are Cubans, engaged in this 
industry, and dwelling and working mainly in the suburb called 
Ybor City. The fact of principal interest in the city to the traveler, 
however, is the 

Tampa Bay Hotel, built by the managers of the Plant System, 
and one of the most capacious and costly hotels in the United 
States. 

It is upon a grand scale in size, magnificently furnished, contain- 



198 G UIDE TO SO UTHEA S TERN S TA TES. 

ing many pieces of carved old furniture, ornament, and bric-a-brac, 
picked up in Europe or Asia, as well as all that modern decorators 
can add and arrange. It lacks the architectural and artistic har- 
mony which distinguishes the St. Augustine hotels above all rivals 
as pictures, but its i,ooo beds are just as comfortable, its " creature 
comforts " are as elaborate and constant, and its dining-room ser- 
vice is quite as satisfactory to the inner man as that of any other 
hotel the tourist will find in his southern travels. The grounds are 
extensive and highly ornamental, and extend down to the banks of 
the Hillsborough River, just at its mouth, where sailing, boating, fish- 
ing, and all sorts of amphibious enjoyment can be safely indulged. 

Port Tampa (The Inn, $4) is the deep-water terminus of the Plant 
System of railways, on the west side of Hillsborough Bay, nine 
miles below Tampa. The railway is carried out nearly a mile to the 
edge of the channel. " At the end of this long wharf is a cluster of 
veritable lacustrine dwellings, with all modern improvements, a 
railway statio^n, freight houses, . . . and — of chief interest to 
tourists — r^^ Imi, an hostelry standing on piles, surrounded by 
wide galleries, and so near deep water that one may catch channel 
bass, Spanish mackerel, and sea trout literally from the windows." 
To live at this hotel is almost the same as taking a long ocean- 
voyage. 

Steamers leave Port Tampa twice a week, Mondays and Thurs- 
days, for Key West and Havana, and daily except Sunday for St. 
Petersburg and Manatee River Landings, all the year round ; also, 
during winter season, for Pine Island (St. James City), Punta Rassa, 
Fort Myers, Naples, and other points on the Caloosahatchee River. 
In summer these are reached less frequently. A steamer departs 
and arrives once a week to and from Mobile, and once in two weeks 
to and from Puerto Cortez, Honduras. An occasional steamer is 
dispatched to Jamaica. (See also page 201.) 

Excursions from Tampa and Port Tampa are mainly by boat, 
and the amusements are likely to be pretty closely confined to fishing, 
boating, and waterside picnics, for which there are plenty of good 
localities along both shores of Tampa Bay and among the coast 
islands, which are old shell-reefs, often overgrown with mangroves. 

The Manatee River affords a longer trip of great interest. It is 
a broad estuary leading eastward from Tampa Bay, near its mouth, 
and is stained and shadowed by very dense vegetation. Near its 
mouth is the little settlement of Palma Sola (Palma Sola, $3), whence 
roads lead to the orange groves and fishing stations along the coast 
of Sarasota Bay, which has lately received a good deal of attention 



FLORIDA. 199 

from immigrants. This bay is a long lagoon protected by the narrow 
beach of Big and Little Sarasota islands, and is a wonderfully good 
place for mullet and similar fishing, while the outer shell-beaches are 
among the most extensive and beautiful on the Gulf Coast. The 
Palms ($3) is a hotel at Sarasota, fifteen miles south of Braidentown. 
A few miles up the Manatee River is Braidentown, the capital of 
Manatee County, which has a scattered and roving population, for 
the most part devoted to cattle-raising on extensive prairie ranges, 
where they are herded and branded by cowboys, much as is the cus- 
tom in the Western States and Mexico. For a picture of these cow- 
boys of South Florida and their ways, see Harper's Magazine for 
August, 1895. The name of the river (and county) recalls the fact 
that the manatee was formerly numerous in its waters. 

The Florida Keys and Cuba. 

The Florida Keys are a series of islands, formed of sand and sea- 
wrack resting upon a line of coral and oyster reefs, that protects the 
southern end of the peninsula, and stretches away in a curving chain 
200 miles long from Biscayne Bay around to the Dry Tortugas, in the 
Gulf of Mexico. They can be reached only by a private boat, or by 
taking passage upon some chance trading or fishing vessel, except at 
Key West, near the southwestern end of the chain, where there is a 
city and fortified seaport, the southernmost possession of the United 
States. 

*• Key West," says the latest writer, "belongs to a large group of 
keys (Spanish cayo, a low island, sand-bank) lying south of the Bay of 
Florida, and extending thirty-five miles eastward to Bahia Honda, 
which is the widest open water along the entire line of keys. These 
islands are, for the most part, uninhabited, and, as they are heavily 
wooded, abound with game. Eastward of this large group lie the 
Vaccas Keys, as they are known, numbering a dozen or more islands, 
covered, for the most part, with a fine hammock growth. This brings 
us to an exceedingly interesting group of islands, of which Indian Key 
is the center, where cultivation has been attempted, and the scene of 
Doctor Perrine's attempted sisal hemp culture sixty years ago. From 
this point onward to Cape Florida there is an almost unbroken line of 
keys from one mile to thirty miles long, separated only by narrow 
channels, the more northerly of which are chiefly devoted to the cul- 
ture of pineapples and tomatoes for Northern markets. 

" A very common but erroneous idea prevails among uninformed 
people that the waters lying between the keys and the mainland are 
navigable. In point of fact, it is only a shallow inland sea, the rock 
in many places coming to the surface, and in hundreds of years, no 
doubt, the coral insect and the mangrove tree will have reclaimed the 



200 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

entire area, and the map of Florida will have a very different appear- 
ance. The fact that the water is so shoal makes perfectly feasible the 
project to run a railroad down the east coast and over the keys to Key 
West, the only bridging requiring any engineering skill being the 
spanning of the open w^aters of Bahia Honda." — C. R. Dodge. 

The City of Key West {New Russell, %\ ; Duval, $2.50 ; Cocoa- 
nut Grove, $2) is on one of the westernmost of the group, and in the 
meridian of Fort Myers, south 140 miles, standing upon an islet called 
by the Spanish Cayo Hueso, or Bone Island, of which the present 
name is probably a corruption. The population is about 25,000, so 
that it is in reality the largest city in Florida ; but less than 1,000 of 
these are white Americans, the remainder being Cubans, Spanish- 
speaking negroes, and Bahamians. Fishing and maritime industries 
employ a large number of people, of course, but the greater part of 
the population is engaged in the cigar factories, $3,000,000 a year 
being paid in wages to cigarmakers alone. ' ' Key West is also the 
market center of the sponge industry, which gives employment to 
hundreds of small boats and sailing craft, and amounts to $1,000,000 
annually. The turtle trade is another local industry, though not so 
important now as when the sea-turtles were more plentiful. " As Key 
West is the only supplying point of all the Florida Keys, and of the 
coasting vessels in that part of the world, it has a large mercantile 
trade, and many well-to-do men. It has the modern conveniences ~ 
electric lights, street cars, etc.— and, to the simple-minded inhabitants 
of that island world, is the grandest city in the universe. The trav- 
eled tourist, however, will find his few hours of shore liberty, while 
the steamer waits, sufficient to enable him to see the sights. It is a 
fact, however, that more persons than before are making long winter 
stoppages in the city, where the climate is delightful, and where there 
is now a good hotel in the New Russell House. There is abundant 
opportunity for voyages among the keys and to the mainland bays, 
if you are willing to rough it ; and comfortable yachts can always be 
hired. 

The excellence of the harbor has made Cayo Hueso, or Key West, 
useful to sailors from the start. Spanish exploring expeditions halted 
here, and the pirates of the last century made it a rendezvous. The 
United States availed itself of the island as a supply station during 
the Florida War, and it was so important in the operations of the 
Mexican War that the Government began to fortify it and make 
extensive preparations for a naval station there. Fort Taylor, an 
immense bastioned structure of coral rock and northern brick, was 
nearly finished when the Civil War broke out, and commanded by 



FLORIDA. 201 

an army officer who had only a few artillerymen. With these and 
some loyal citizens he held the place so firmly, however, that Key 
West remained in the Union from the start, and was the headquar- 
ters of the cruisers and blockading vessels of that naval district. 
The fort, which can still be made effective, is now in charge of an 
ordnance sergeant, who will show it to visitors. A liberal fee should 
be given to him for his trouble. The outworks, including two mar- 
tello towers built in 1S56, are in a picturesquely ruinous condition. 
The Government buildings, ranging from a fine new brick custom 
house to the dilapidated old army barracks, with the only banyan 
tree in the United States, are all that remain to be seen; but a street- 
car trip through the Cuban quarter to South Beach, the bathing- 
place of the city, may be worth the while. 

Key West is reached directly from New York and Galveston, by 
the Mallory Li7ie steamers (Route 3, p. 22), two or three times a 
week; from New Orleans by the Morgan Line via Cedar Keys, Port 
Tampa, and Punta Gorda, weekly; an4 by the Plant Steamship Com- 
pany from Port Tampa twice a week. The distance from Punta 
Gorda is 130 miles, and from Port Tampa 230 miles. The new 
Plant Steamship " Mascotte," carrying the West India mails, and 
connecting with fast through trains, leaves Port Tampa at 9.30 p. m., 
on Monday and Thursday, arrives at Key West at 3.00 p. m. the next 
afternoon, stays at Key West five hours, and arrives at Havana (90 
miles) in the early morning of Wednesday and Saturday. Leaving 
Havana at noon, the steamer stops at Key West two hours in the 
evening, and arrives at Port Tampa at 2.30 p. m. on Thursday and 
Saturday. No passports are required at Havana, 

The Pinellas Peninsula and Witlilacoocliee. 

The Pinellas Peninsula lies between Tampa Bay and the Gulf of 
Mexico. Near its southern extremity, on Tampa Bay, nine miles 
south of Port Tampa, is St. Petersburg, the ocean terminus of the 
Orange Belt Line 'Sanford & St. Petersburg Rd., Plant System). 
This port, where high wooded bluffs overlook the shore and a 
long railway wharf, is connected with Port Tampa by steamers 
making three daily trips, with the Manatee River towns by a daily 
steamboat, and is a favorite excursion point. It has several 
hundred inhabitants, the large Hotel Detroit ($3), and some smaller 
houses of entertainment. 

" Here is where the Spanish Mackerel, far famed as a game fish 
and an epicurean dainty, is caught in greatest abundance. On the 
long dock extending out over the waters of the beautiful Tampa 
Bay, scores of fishermen ply the rod and reel from morn to night 

17 



203 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

during season, and many a heavy creel is carried home. Here too, 
the grouper, flounder, and sea trout will try the angler's skill. In 
the marshes along the coast duck-shooting is excellent during the 
winter months, and on the shore jack-snipe, plover, and numerous 
other beach birds afford excellent sport. In the woods and ' hum- 
mocks ' there is abundance of quail-shooting." 

The Orange Belt Line passes up the Pinellas Peninsula, which 
is noted for its numerous and lofty Indian mounds, and runs 
along the coast of Clearwater Harbor, one of the most open and 
best-known lagoons on this part of the coast. Here are several 
settlements frequented in winter by fishermen and tourists, and hav- 
ing flourishing orchards of orange, lemon, shaddock, etc. Clear- 
water is itself a pretty little town, with churches, stores, etc., and 
several small hotels (Virona Inn, $3; Sea View, $2.50; Phoenix, $2; 
etc.). Farther north, in an excellent situation on the seashore, is 
Sutherland, with the large ^otel Marioji ($3), which invites the 
special attention of invalids to the climatic advantages of its situa- 
tion. The railway here comes to the bayous at the mouth of the 
Anclote River (where, among the Anclote Keys, is an excellent 
anchorage for yachts, and boating and fishing opportunities of the 
highest order), and turns inland. Here is Tarpon Springs (pop., 500; 
Tarpon Springs Hotel, $3; boarding-houses), a town built largely by 
Northern visitors, and having sidewalks and other comforts not 
always found in Florida villages. A bayou of the river, fed by 
powerful springs, is particularly well adapted to boating, and there 
are fairly good roads throughout the neighborhood and to Lake 
Butler, a mile and a half south, on whose shores stands a winter 
residence of the English Duke of Sutherland. Sailing expeditions to 
the " Cootee" River, ten miles north, and to many points up and 
down the coast, are greatly in vogue, and very safe and pleasurable. 
There is nothing to detain the tourist east of Tarpon Springs, until 
he reaches Macon and Lacoochee, w^here the north and south lines of 
the Florida Central and Plant System are crossed in quick succes- 
sion. These junctions are on the edge of the " Lake District," which 
the Orange Belt Line skirts westward through Mascotte (stages 
to Villa City) and Claremont to Lake Apopka and Sanford; and are 
among the headwaters of the Withlacoochee River, whose valley has 
lately become doubly valuable by reason of the discovery of phos- 
phates, the mining and exportation of w^hich have attracted popula- 
tion, and promoted farming and other industries. The consequence 
is a Ime of flourishing villages along each of the two north and south 



FLORIDA. 203 

railroads, of which the principal, reading northward on the Plant 
System, are Dade City, county seat of Pasco (Dade City Hotel, $2), 
Owensboro (intersection of Florida Central and Florida Southern 
railways), Lacoochee, St. Catherine, the site of the Dade massacre 
(p. 204), Leesburg (p. 207), Wier Park, Belleview, and Ocala. (For 
Ocala and northward, see p. 208.) 

Along the more westerly line of the Florida Central are Dade 
City, St. Catherine, Panasoffkee (Lake View, $2 ; junction of spur 
four miles east, to Sumterville, county seat of Sumter ; steamers for 
Floral City, Lake Panasoffkee, Withlacoochee River, and Little 
Charlie Apopka Lake), Wildwood (junction of line eastward, to Lees- 
burg), Belleview (small hotels, $2), and Ocala. At Macon a branch 
of the Plant System reaches north down the valley of the Withla- 
coochee through Pemberton Ferry to Inverness and Dunellon (p. 210). 
At Pemberton Ferry an east-and-west railroad crosses from Brooks- 
ville, county seat of Hernando, to St. Catherine. 

These roads lie upon the rolling pinelands that constitute the 
watershed of the State in this part, and lie about 100 feet above the 
level of the sea; and here ran the old Indian trails and early roads, 
where they were least interrupted by rivers and swamps. It was 
in this region that the Indian uprising of 1835 to 1842 began, and it 
will be proper to give here a succinct account of it. 

The Seminole War commonly referred to by writers and speakers, 
is the second of the two Florida Indian conflicts, so-called. The first 
was between the Government and a rabble of disgruntled Creeks, 
Seminoles, and negroes, in 181 8, in the extreme northwestern part of 
Florida, incited by Scotch traders and allowed to continue by the 
Spanish, but crushed out by General (and Governor) Andrew Jackson, 
as soon as the United States obtained control of the country. The 
second, beginning in 1835, was waged by the Seminole Indians in 
the peninsula of Florida, and ended in their ruin. 

These Seminoles were originally members of the Creek Confed- 
eracy in Georgia, who, becoming disaffected, went south into Florida, 
that they might live, hunt, and fish independently, and they were 
therefore styled by the Creeks Semanole, meaning separatist, or run- 
away, which name they now repudiate, calling themselves " Peninsula 
People." It is known that Indians speaking the Creek language 
lived in the south of Florida as early as the sixteenth century, by 
whom the newcomers were welcomed. These Florida seceders were 
not at all friendly to the American colonies, during the Revolution 
of 1776, and refused to join in the treaty of 1790, between their 
ancient brethren, the Creeks, and the United States. They affili- 



204 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

ated with the Spaniards, in 1793, and made war upon the States 
again in 1812. The refusal of the Seminoles to be bound by another 
treaty with the Creeks made by Jackson in 18 14, after the massacre 
of Fort Mims, precipitated the War of 1817. 

Upon the admittance of Florida into the Union, the Seminoles 
gave up all their territory by another treaty (1823), in exchange for 
goods and annuities, and part of them were moved, four years later, 
to lands beyond the Mississippi. The more turbulent part of the 
Seminoles, however, influenced by a bold and wily half-breed, named 
Osceola, refused to emigrate, and were left on small reserves of land. 
Soon the settlers complained of their conduct, and Gen. Wiley 
Thomson was sent to remove these Indians to their new home, 
by force if necessary. 

Osceola, supported by Micanopy, Coacoochee, and other lesser 
chiefs, incited his people to resistance, and was so insolent toward. 
General Thomson that he was confined in chains for a day. This 
seemed to induce a repentance, and he promised, if released, to fulfill 
the terms of the treaty, but, instead, fell to murdering the white 
settlers on the borders of the Everglades (1835). Maj. Francis L. 
Dade, 4th Infantry, was sent from Fort Brooke (Tampa), with more 
than one hundred soldiers, to the support of General Clinch, in Fort 
Drane, forty miles eastward of the mouth of the Withlacoochee, 
but was ambushed near Wahoo Swamp, in Sumter County, near 
what is now St. Catherines (December 28, 1835), and was killed, 
together with his whole command, excepting four men, who after- 
ward died from the effects of their wounds. A monumental shaft 
in the Military Cemetery at St. Augustine (p. 157) marks the grave 
of the massacred men, who were afterward buried there. Major 
Dade is not condemned for this massacre by military critics, since 
he had no information that war had broken out, or that there was 
any reason for particular caution. 

Osceola, on the same day, crept up to Fort King, four miles east 
of the present town of Ocala, and killed and scalped General Thomson 
and some friends who were dining m a store near the fort. Generals 
Clinch and Gaines had each severe battles with the Indians on the 
Withlacoochee. The Creeks, in 1836, went on the warpath in their 
own country to help the Seminoles, and terrorized lower Alabama 
and Georgia; but Gen. Winfield Scott, then in chief command of the 
South, punished them severely, and removed thousands of them to 
the Indian Territory. The militia and volunteers from Florida 



FLORIDA. 205 

met the Seminoles in a severe fight near the scene of Dade's mas- 
sacre, but, as in most of the battles of succeeding years, no lasting 
advantage was won. Osceola again broke a treaty with General 
Jesup in 1837, and more of the guerrilla warfare ensued, in which 
the Indians had much the advantage, because of their wide knowl- 
edge of the swamps and hammocks of the wet Everglades in which 
they hid themselves; and on account of their immunity from snake- 
bites, insect-stings, and the fevers that decimated the United States 
troops. At last, under a flag of truce, Osceola, with several chiefs 
and many warriors, came to confer a second time with General Jesup. 
The meeting was held in a dark grove, and when Osceola rose to 
speak, he was seized and bound by Jesup's orders, that officer hav- 
ing determined that no other means of stopping the chief's treacheries 
were possible (October 21, 1S37), The Seminole warriors were cov- 
ered by the soldiers' guns, and, offering no resistance, were sent 
away. 

Osceola and his lieutenant, Coacoochee, were confined in Fort 
Marion, in St. Augustine, from which they escaped (p. 159). Osceola, 
however, was soon recaptured, and then was sent to Fort Moultrie, 
in Charleston Harbor, where he died in 1838, and was buried near the 
main entrance to the fort. 

Desultory fighting was still kept up by the Seminoles, although 
they had no supreme leader ; Gen. Zachary Taylor whipped a large 
party of them again in 1837, but was obliged to organize a summer 
campaign and chase them to their fastnesses south of Lake Okeecho- 
bee. It was, therefore, two years before he could nominally close 
the war in 1839. 

The soldiers in Florida after that spent their time in making expedi- 
tions among the rivers and marshes, in order to capture such bands of 
Indians as they could find, and to send them west to join the colony 
there. Coacoochee, a noted Seminole chief, who had escaped suc- 
cessfully from St. Augustine with Osceola, pretended to be willing to 
end his resistance and to persuade his tribe to emigrate, but Major 
Childs, the commanding officer at Fort Pierce, having no faith in his 
sincerity, decided to seize the party, which Coacoochee had been 
allowed a month to collect, before that wily savage would admit that 
they were quite ready to come in. Coacoochee, his uncle, and sev- 
eral warriors were, therefore, enticed to the fort and arrested in 
much the same way as Osceola had been captured, whereupon it 
appeared that the chief had been quietly sending his women and 



S06 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

children south, intending to follow immediately. Coacoochee and 
his warriors were sent by Major Childs in a schooner to New Orleans 
en rotite to their reservation in the Indian Territory, but General 
Worth recalled them to Tampa Bay, and by sending out Coacoochee 
himself, and keeping the others as hostages, the women and chil- 
dren of the band came in voluntarily, and then all were shipped to 
their destination. This was a heavy loss to the Seminoles; but there 
still remained in the Peninsula a few hundred warriors with their 
families scattered into very small parcels, who were concealed in the 
most inaccessible hammocks and swamps. At last, in 1842, the 
Seminole War was permanently closed. 

The Seminoles of modern times are pronounced by ethnologists 
" a people compounded of the following elements: Separatists from 
the Lower Creek and Hichiti towns; remnants of tribes partly civil- 
ized by the Spaniards; Yamassi Indians, and some negroes. ' They 
are a stalwart, handsome race, orderly, and living upon the flat, 
grass-grown "keys" of the Everglades, where fishing and shooting 
supply them with all the animal food they need, and various vege- 
tables, maize, and sweet potatoes are grown on the hammocks, where 
wild fruits mature naturally all about them. Their staple flour is 
made from the koonti, a root yielding a starch much like arrowroot, 
which they pound, wash, and ferment, thus extracting the starch, or 
flour, used in making bread and the like. This plant is coming into 
civilized cultivation and use. They come frequently to trade at the 
frontier posts, bringing alligator hides and teeth, and various other 
things for sale; and are often hired as guides by hunters and fish- 
ermen; but they will rarely conduct white men into the recesses of 
the Everglades, conceal zealously the situation of their villages, and 
must be trusted in all respects with great caution. 

The Lake District. 

Between the Florida Central Railroad and St. Johns River is a 
region draining into the St. Johns, which is so thickly sprinkled with 
connecting lakes, some having an area of more than fifty square 
miles, that probably a third of the country is under water. Between 
the lakes are lands comparatively high and dry, and including the 
loftiest elevations in the State, which are covered Avith pine, broken 
by hammocks of mixed hardwood and palmetto, and are traversed 
by many clear streams. It is as beautiful and salubrious as any part 
of the interior of Florida, and is, in consequence, one of the most 



Jacksonville 
St. Augustine 
Ornnond 
Dayton a 
West Palm Beach 
Fernandina 
Tallahassee 
Gainesville 
Ocala 
Orlando 
Tampa 
Manatee 
River Points 



Short Line 



BETWEEN 



Northern 
Points 

AND 

Florida 



.Covers most important 
Points in Florida 



SEE THAT YOUR TICKETS READ 
EITHER VIA 



C0LUI>1BIA, S. C, 
EVERETT, Ga., or 
RIVER JUNCTION, Fla, 

Send, for best map of 
Florida 



EARLY CONNECTION THIS WINTER 

FOR THE BAHAMA ISLANDS BY STEAMER FROM 

PALM BEACH TO NASSAU 



N. S. PENNINGTON, 

Traffic Manager. 



A. O. MAC DONELL, 

Gen'I Pass'r Agt., 

Jacksonville, Fla. 



PLORWA. SO'? 

thickly populated parts of the State, and one of the favorite dwelling- 
places for winter residents and tourists. There are few very large 
and famous hotels, but many small and comfortable ones, not to 
speak of innumerable boarding-houses and private families that 
receive a guest or two for the winter. This district is reached from 
all sides by railroads and steamboats in a quick and comfortable 
manner. The two central points are Leesburg and Tavares. 

Leesburg (pop. , 1,500 ; Lake View, $3) is the county seat of Lake, 
which has been in the past the greatest orange-growing county of the 
State. It is situated on a neck of land between Lake Harris (or 
Astatula), south, and Lake Griffin, north, of the town, which is the 
business point of the district. It is a station on the Florida Southern, 
125 miles south of Jacksonville, and on the east and west line of the 
Florida Central from Wildwood to Orlando; it is also a terminus 
of the Plant System's line (St. Johns & Lake Eustis Ry.) from 
Astor, so that it is easily reached from the St. Johns steamboats at 
Astor (p. 147) or at Sanford. 

Ten miles east of Leesburg is Tavares (Osceola, $3), another 
railway Junction, having, besides the east and west line from San- 
ford to Leesburg, southerly lines to Lake Apopka and Kissimmee 
(p. I go), and to Clermont and Kissimmee, connecting with the roads 
to St. Petersburg and Tamj^a; a short branch to Nithsdale, on Lake 
Harris; and the St. Johns and Lake Eustis north to Fort Mason, 
Glendale, and Astor. 

These two towns are the supplying points of a populous, prosper- 
ous, and interesting district which offers everything in the way of 
health, comfort, and amusement that Central Florida can afford. 
Five large lakes, Harris, Griffin, Eustis, Dora, and Yale are grouped 
within an area fifteen miles square, and their waters are sufficiently 
spacious for good sailing, quiet enough for pleasant rowing, and 
warm enough for healthful bathing. The shores are dotted with little 
towns, pretty winter cottages, and numberless groves of oranges, 
while the gardens are semi-tropical in variety and luxuriance. 
Steamboats ply weekly (Friday) between Leesburg and Esmeralda — 
at the foot of Lake Griffin — and between El Dorado, the railway 
station on Lake Harris, and Yallaha, Bloomfield, and Lane Park on 
its opposite shore. The still larger Lake Apopka, famous for its 
fishing, is only a dozen miles away, and it is a short journey to the 
seashore or to the Upper St. Johns or Kissimmee River and lakes. 

Eustis (pop., 500; Eustis, $2.50; Ocklawaha, $2.50) is a fine village 
on the northern shore of Lake Eustis, a terminus of the St. Johns 
& Lake Eustis Ry. from Astor (p. 147), and a port for lake steam- 



208 G UIDE TO SO UTHEA S TERN S TA TES. 

boats. Zellwood (Michelhurst, $2), Mt. Dora (Bruce, $2; Lake, $2), 
and Fruitland (Fruitland, $2), the last named one of the most suc- 
cessful of English colonies in Florida, are other interesting points on 
these lakes not heretofore mentioned, see also page 187. 

Okahumpka, six miles south of Leesburg, on the railroad, is a 
new competitor for favor in the midst of high, dry pine lands, and has 
the Hotel Clarendon (I2.50). 

Ten miles north of Leesburg is Lake Weir, where the local 
Chautauqua Assemblies are held (Weir Park, $2). Many little settle- 
ments are clustered here, with fair roads, one of which leads to Moss 
Bluff and Lake Weir Landing on the Upper Ocklawaha (which drains 
Lake Griffin), whence boats can be taken to Silver Spring, some ten 
miles below, and thence to Palatka. A few miles farther north, on 
the Florida Southern, brings the traveler to Ocala. 

Ocala (pop., 5,000; Ocala, $3; Montezuma, $2. 50; boarding-houses). 
This vigorous and growing town is the county seat of Marion, and of 
increasing importance as the market and supplying point not only of 
a good agricultural and fruit-producing region, but of a wide circle 
of phosphate mines. It is a pretty place, with a fine public square. 

Phosphates, suitable for use as a land fertilizer, are found in sev- 
eral of the Southern States, notably South Carolina, and exist in 
Western Florida, in several distinct varieties, each different in appear- 
ance and texture from phosphates found in other States and countries. 
They consist of hard rock phosphate, bone phosphate, pebble, 
and soluble or soft phosphate. Hard rock phosphates are found in 
Wakulla, Leon, Jefferson, Madison, Taylor, Suwannee, Columbia, 
Alachua, Levy, Marion, Sumter, Citrus, Pasco, and Hernando coun- 
ties ; they are white or pinkish, hard and granular in texture, often 
laminated, and have the appearance of lime rock. This variety of 
phosphates is supposed to have been originally miocene lime-rock, 
which, in course of time, by some process of nature, not understood, 
became impregnated with phosphoric acid. It varies in percentage 
of phosphates from 60 to 90 per cent. The beds run from the surface 
to sixty feet in depth, extending in area over thousands of acres. 
This is the most inexpensive phosphate to mine, no drills or machin- 
ery being required, and has been mined, loaded on the cars, loaded 
on steamers at Fernandina, and delivered at Amsterdam, Holland, 
at $7.50 per ton; a clear profit of $17.50 per ton. Nodular bone or 
pebble phosphates are found in Clay, Polk, Hillsboro, Manatee, 
De Soto, and Lee counties, in the Prace, Alafia, Black rivers, etc., 
and are composed principally of coprolites (petrified guano) and com- 
minuted bones. They occur in bluish gray, dark blue, amorphous 
nodules, of sizes varying from a pea to a walnut. These pebbles, 
intermixed with sand, form immense beds and bars in the rivers, 
and scattered among them are the teeth, tusks, bones, and scales of 



FLORIDA. 209 

prehistoric mammals, reptiles, and fishes. This phosphate is of a 
high grade, rarely containing more than i per cent of alumina, and 
remarkably free from other alien substances. The method of raising 
this phosphate is very simple, consisting of a steam-dredge with a 
revolving screen to separate the phosphate from the sand. Soluble 
or soft phosphates have been found in Marion County, and consist 
of soft white pebbles, which crumble under slight pressure, and are 
very rich, containing over 60 per cent of pure phosphate of lime. 

The manufacture of iron-acid phosphate and other forms of pre- 
pared mineral fertilizers has been undertaken at Belleview near 
Ocala, South Jacksonville, and at some other points within the State. 

Ocala is a railway junction of importance, where the Florida Cen- 
tral crosses the Plant System. A cross-road, the Silver Springs, 
Ocala & Gulf, connects Ocala with Silver Springs (p. 146), five 
miles eastj and extends west to the Withlacoochee River and sea- 
coast, at Homosassa. On this line are Leroy and Rock Springs 
(Hotel Leroy, $2), and the Wekiva Blue Spring (Cottage, $2), a 
mile from Juliette, on S. F. & W. division of the Plant System, 
twenty-two miles from Ocala, of which Colonel Norton has given this 
enthusiastic description: 

"The spring, named Wekiva by the Seminoles and Las Aguas 
Azul by the Spaniards, is one of the most beautiful in Florida, sur- 
rounded by an amphitheatre of bluffs covered with a fine growth of 
magnolia, hickory, live-oak, bay, and the like, interspersed with 
pine. The spring is 350 feet wide, of a color that varies from blue 
to green, owing to unexplained conditions or to individual percep- 
tion of color. So clear is the water, and so high its refractive powers 
that, looking from the bank, a stranger can not be convinced that 
the basin is more than three or four feet deep. . . . The actual 
depth is twenty-five feet or more. The spring derives much of its 
peculiar beauty from the wonderful vegetation that rises in endless 
variety of color and form along the rocky dykes and sand bars of the 
bottom. To float upon the absolutely invisible water, above these 
fairy-like bowers, is an experience never to be forgotten. The water 
boils up through a broad, and, no doubt, a very deep bed of pure 
white sand, in volume sufficient to form a considerable stream — not 
nearly so large, however, as Silver Spring Run. All along the banks, 
too, are other lesser springs, overhung by ferns and vines, that 
rival those beneath the surface of the water. 

" Visitors should not fail to go down the run to Dunnellon, either 
by steam launch or in a rowboat. The distance, allowing for the wind- 
ings of the stream, is about six miles, and the whole trip is a series of 
surprises. Here and there are deep, rocky chasms, through which 
fresh volumes of water boil upward, and, at frequent intervals, other 
springs burst from the banks, sometimes utilized to turn water- 
wheels, and each possessed of some peculiar charm of its own. 
The lower reaches of the run are bordered with cypresses and 
frequented by garfish, turtles, and alligators." 



^10 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

Dunnellon is a railway station on the Withlacoochee, admirably 
situated for a pleasure place, as it was intended to be, but the 
discovery, in 1889, that the village site and all the neighborhood 
was underlaid with .the richest phosphate, has turned it into 
a mining center. From Dunnellon the road trends southward 
across the head of the beautiful Crystal River to Ho7Jzosassa, a port 
of Homosassa River, which is really an inlet. This was the scene, 
before the Civil War, of extensive sugar planting and especially of 
the plantation, sugar warehouses, and mills, of ex-Senator Yulee. 
As he was an ardent Confederate, and did what he could to aid 
blockade running, and as the Confederates had a garrison here, the 
port was an object of considerable attention, during the Civil War, 
from the Northern war vessels, who frequently shelled the woods 
and occasionally landed troops for short periods. Now there is 
not much cultivation nor many inhabitants, and Homosassa is 
a port for the shipment of phosphates to Cedar Keys. This is an 
exceedingly advantageous region for shooting and fishing. The 
l7ni (I3) and Osceola House (I2) are open at Homosassa. 

Another branch from Dunnellon goes straight south along the 
western shore of Lake Tsula-apopka to Inverness (county seat of 
Citrus), where it meets a branch of the Florida Southern from Pem- 
berton Ferry, connecting through to the South. 

Orange Lake, some nineteen miles north of Ocala, is the largest 
of a group comprising also, Lochloosa, Newnan's, and Levy's lakes. 
This region has long been noted for its orange groves, the Mam- 
moth Grove, on the south shore of Orange Lake, having had, in 1894, 
70,000 full-bearing trees. These are the largest natural groves in 
Florida. They are situated in the midst of a vast, rich hammock, 
the trees being of natural, spontaneous growth, in the places where 
they now stand, budded to the best sweet varieties. The same pro- 
fusion of orange trees surrounds all the man^^ villages and stations on 
the railways. The eastern shore of Orange Lake and Lochloosa 
are skirted by the Florida Central, through Citra (a prominent shipping 
point), Island Grove, and Lochloosa, stations, to Hawthorne, where 
it crosses the Plant System's tracks from Gainesville (p. 211) to Palatka 
(p. 143). On this east-and-west line, fourteen miles east of Haw- 
thorne, is Interlachen (Hotel Lagonda, $3), which is a pleasant winter 
resort in the midst of a rolling, wooded, thickly settled country, where 
the absence of the saw-palmetto renders walking more attractive than 
it usually is in Florida. Lakes Lagonda and Chipco are near by. 



FLORIDA. 211 

The Central's line continues north from Hawthorne fourteen miles 
to its junction with the line to Cedar Keys at Waldo. 

The Florida Southern passes north from Ocala along the 
western shore of Orange Lake to Micanopy (a brisk little town 
having an historical connection with the Seminole War, and named 
after an Indian warrior of that time), and at Rochelle, six miles 
north of Micanopy (Junction) joins the Plant System's line from 
Gainesville to Palatka, spoken of above. 

Jacksonville to Cedar Keys. 

The Florida Central is one of the oldest roads in the State, and its 
earliest lines ran from Fernandina (p. 29) and Jacksonville (p. 133) 
to Cedar Keys, 127 miles southwest on the Gulf of Mexico. It is 
to be expected, therefore, that this region of the State will be 
found among the most thickly populated and productive. This has 
long been true, and since the discovery of phosphate earths and rock, 
underlying a large part of it, an increase of numbers and values has 
taken place. The eastern part of the journey is of no particular 
interest. The direct line from Fernandina to Cedar Keys crosses at 
Baldwitt, nineteen miles west of Jacksonville, that from Jacksonville 
to Tallahassee (p. 213), and an exchange of passengers takes place 
upon a platform in the midst of a swamp where a sharp little battle 
occurred during the Civil War, in which the Union men were 
gallantly routed. Continuing southwest toward Cedar Keys, through 
rolling pine woodlands, stops are made at Maxville (mineral springs), 
Lawtey (Burrin, |2), Stark (Commercial, $2.50) — where a short branch 
runs westward into Alachua County — Thurston, at the crossing of 
the Georgia Southern Railway, from Lake City to Palatka, and 
Waldo (Renault, $2), where the road diverges southward to Ocala 
and Tampa, and one can reach Lakes Alto and Santa Fe by steamer. 
At the head of Lake Santa Fe, a beautiful sheet of clear, fresh water, 
nine miles long and three and one-half miles wide, where fish abound 
in countless numbers, is Melrose (p. 142), whence a railroad runs 
(30 m.) to Green Cove Springs. The next important station beyond 
Waldo is Gainesville (pop., 3,000; Arlington, $3; Brown, $2), one of 
the principal towns and railway centers in the western part of the 
State. Here the main line of the Plant System crosses the Florida 
Central, and there is also a road' directly east to Palatka. 

This city is the county seat of Alachua County, which takes its 
name from the Indian word for " sink hole," referring to a well-like 



212 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

abyss in the ground of Payne's Prairie (now a large lake), into 
which flowed the surplus of Newnan's Lake, until the hole was 
choked by careless curiosity seekers. Here are the United States 
Land Office for Florida and the State Military Academy. The town 
is one of the oldest in the State, having arisen during the Seminole 
War, under the protection of Fort Clarke; and it was occupied for 
a short time by Massachusetts soldiers in 1864, just before the battle 
of Olustee. Its growth during the past few years has been phe- 
nomenal, and it has become a distributing point for the trade of 
a large and rich section of country. The city is situated on the edge 
of a vast tract of the richest hammock lands, at an elevation of 128 
feet above the level of the sea. It has long been noted as a place of 
unusual sanitary attractions, and is already a popular and pleasant 
place of resort for winter visitors. The streets are wide and shady, 
and the business portion of the place contains a number of sub- 
stantial and well-arranged buildings, hotels, and boarding-houses. 

The three little stations of Arredonda, Kanapaha, and Palmer, 
soon passed west of Gainesville, ship large quantities of early vege- 
tables and fruit to Northern markets. Archer (Goodwood, $2) is a 
phosphate town, reached by a branch of the Plant System from High 
Springs, fifty-one miles north, and having a local railroad south into the 
exceedingly rich phosphate districts along the boundary of Levy and 
Marion counties, which connects through to Blue Springs and Homo- 
sassa. Bronson (Bronson, $2) is the county seat of Levy. 

Cedar Keys (pop., 2,000; Bettellini, $2; Schlemmer, $2) is the 
terminus on the Gulf of Mexico, and stands on Way Key, one of the 
islands, four miles out, that inclose the commodious harbor. It 
dates from the completion of the railway here, in 1861, when wharves 
and warehouses were built and commerce opened. These facilities 
were at once availed of, by the Confederate authorities, for blockade 
running, which went on for only a short time. In January, 1862, the 
Union navy learned that seven vessels were loaded and waiting for 
a chance to get out. Down came the Federal vessels, took possession 
of the town and its trifling garrison, captured and burned the ships and 
their cargoes of cotton and turpentine , entirely destroyed the railway 
terminus, wharves, and rolling stock, and, by keeping an eye upon 
the place afterward, stopped all hope of blockade running there. 

At the close of the war the railway and wharves were rebuilt, and 
a small town gradually grew upon the key, which is the calling point 
of all the coasting steamers, including the Morgan Line, weekly, 
and of steamers to all landings on the Crystal and Suwannee rivers. 
The great quantity of red cedar near here has led to the establish- 
ment of pencil factories, and there is an oyster-canning house, but 



FLORIDA. 213 

the principal industry, apart from handling freight and phosphate, 
is in fish, turtles, and oysters, which are sent all over the interior, 
packed in ice. It has a supplying trade with ships, and with a 
large extent of coast. Cedar Keys itself has small attraction for the 
visitor, and less for the Northern resident, except the excellent 
fishing obtainable there, but it is a convenient place for starting 
upon a boating expedition up or down this almost untenanted and 
everywhere beautiful stretch of coast, from the Suwannee to Clear- 
water Harbor, of which it is the central haven and supplying point. 

The Suwannee Valley and West Florida. 

The Florida Central & Peninsular Rd. has a line across the 
northern tier of counties in Florida from Jacksonville to Tallahassee 
and Chattahoochee, on the borders of Alabama, continued by a line of 
the Louisville & Nashville Company to Pensacola, at the extreme 
western limit of the State. This connects with the New Florida 
Short Line (Route 14, p. 53), at Jacksonville, and with the lines 
from Fernandina, and from the south interior of the State, at Bald- 
win, and makes various connections at towns farther west. 

Leaving Jacksonville (Union station), the road pursues a course 
straight west through the long-leaf pine lands to Baldwin (p. 211), 
and thence, still due west, through lands producing lumber and naval 
stores, and vegetable-raising districts, to Lake City, sixty miles from 
Jacksonville. Macclenny (pop., 1,000; Macclenny House, $2) is near 
the St. Marys River, and has a business in cotton and in lumber 
floated down from Okefinokee Swamp. Thirteen miles east of Lake 
City is passed the little station, Ohistee, on Ocean Pond, which was 
the scene of a disastrous repulse of a Union army by the Confeder- 
ates in February, 1864. This was the most considerable battle that 
took place in Florida, outside of Pensacola, and has thus been sum- 
rtiarized by Lossing, though he does not describe the bad generalship 
which seems to have led the troops into a situation where their defeat 
was nearly certain : 

" Early in 1864 the Government was informed that the citizens of 
Florida, tired of the war, desired a reunion with the National Gov- 
ernment. The President commissioned his private Secretary (John 
Hay) a major, and sent him to Charleston to accompany a military 
expedition which General Gillmore was to send to F lorida, Hay to act 
in a civil capacity if required. The expedition was commanded by 
Gen. Truman Seymour, who left Hilton Head (February 5, 1864) in 
transports with 6,000 troops, and arrived at Jacksonville, Fla. , on 



214 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

the 7th. Driving the Confederates from there, the Nationals pur- 
sued them into the interior. General Finnegan was in command of 
a considerable Confederate force in Florida, and stoutly opposed this 
invasion. At Olustee Station, . . .in the heart of a cypress 
swamp, the Nationals encountered Finnegan, strongly posted. A 
sharp battle occurred (February 20th), when Seymour was repulsed 
and retreated to Jacksonville. The estimated loss to the Nationals in 
this expedition was about 2,000 men; the Confederate loss, 1,000 men 
and several guns. Seymour carried with him about 1,000 of the 
wounded, and left 250 on the field, besides many dead and dying. 
The expedition returned to Hilton Head. Unionism in Florida 
seemed to be a myth. The Nationals destroyed stores valued at 
$1,000,000. At about the same time Admiral Bailey destroyed the 
Confederate Salt Works on the coast of Florida, valued at I3, 000,000." 

Lake City (pop., 2,000; small hotels, I2) is an old town, founded, 
like many others, upon a military post, and its streets are embow- 
ered in aged magnolias and live-oaks. Two hundred feet above the 
sea, and having good drainage, the locality is healthy, and the 
whole county, of which this is the capital, is prosperous. Here is the 
State Agricultural College and a United States Agricultural Experi- 
ment Station. The town has an academy for boys, and another for 
girls, besides the customary schools and churches. It is the market- 
town and supplying point for a region producing long-staple cotton, 
for which there is here a large steam cotton-gin and a knitting mill ; 
and an excellent Kind of cigar-leaf tobacco, which is regarded as the 
most profitable crop of the locality. In addition to this, great quan- 
tities of early vegetables are shipped North, and (until the freeze of 
1895) many oranges. Lumber, chiefly yellow pine, is another 
important item (50,000,000 feet of lumber being sawed in this 
vicinity annually), and turpentine is a noteworthy local product. 
Building-stone is quarried in the neighborhood, and shipped far 
and wide, and there is an abundance of brick clay. This is the 
crossing-place of the Georgia Southern Rd., whose line (Route 23, 
p. 128) enters the State at Jennings, and passes through Jasper, the 
county seat of Hamilton, and White Sulphur Spring to this city, 
whence it continues seventy-three miles southeast, through Bradford 
and Putnam counties, to Palatka. Lake City is also the northern 
terminus of a branch of the Plant System, which connects with the 
main line twenty miles southward. 

White Sulphur Spring (Hotel, I2), mentioned above, is an old- 
time resort, twelve miles north of Lake City, on the Suwannee 
River, fashionable " befo' the wa'," but abandoned now, and grown 
lovely in its age. " Withdrawn timidly half a mile from the track, it 



FLORIDA. 215 

seems a veritable sleepy hollow. The long, low, columned hotel, in 
two stages of dignity, one about 1820, the other about i860, occupies the 
entire east side of the town. It is, in itself, a study for an artist. 
Two magnificent rows of live-oaks, fringed with gray moss and 
crossing each other at right angles, give abundance of shade. A 
number of old and interesting homes, with pretty flower gardens, 
peep out here and there from the shadows, and near the river 
one splendid-clump of sycamores lift their boughs one hundred feet 
mto the air." 

The railroad west from Lake City trends gradually northward. 
Live Oak (pop., 1,000; small hotels, $2) is a lively market town, 
with large dealings in lumber and cotton. Here the Plant System 
from Dupont, Ga. , to Gainesville and Southern Florida, crosses the 
Florida Central, and eight miles north of the town is the station 
Suwannee Springs, on the south bank of the Suwannee River. A 
very copious spring of warm sulphur water gushes out of the ground, 
about which there has been made an ornamental park, with a hotel 
(I3) and numerous cottages, bathing arrangements, etc. These 
waters have a wide reputation for their medicinal value, particularly 
m ailments of the kidneys, and are extensively sold in all parts of 
the South and East. 

The Suwannee River is crossed thirteen miles west of Live Oak, at 
Ellaville, where connection is made with the Suwannee River Rd., 
running down the river to Hudson on the Suwannee, where steamer 
connections are made for all the landings on the river. 

The Suwannee River has a world-wide reputation, for who does 
not know the song 

"Way down upon de S'wannee ribber," 

which was written many years ago by Stephen Collins Foster, under 
the title " The Old Folks at Home." Its pure melody caught the ear 
of the people, who heard it sung by Christy's Minstrels, and it has 
spread all over the world. This has given to the Suwannee a sen- 
timental estimation far beyond that of almost any other river in the 
United States; and truly it is a beautiful stream, but no more attrac- 
tive than many another, which, like it, flows full and sluggish be- 
tween heavily wooded banks of magnolia, oak, sycamore, and pal- 
metto trees, from whose branches wave the spectral pendants and 
festoons of the Tillandsia, and in whose shadow lurk birds of gay 
plumage and creatures of strange and fearsome proportions. The 
very name of the river, which has its source in Wilcox and Dooley 
counties, Georgia, and is formed by the junction at Ellaville, Florida, 
of the Little and Allapaha rivers, is a matter of doubt. It is said to 
be a corruption of the Spanish name San Juanita or Little San Juan; 
once applied to this as is the first river west of the St. Johns (San 
Juan). The present writer has not had an opportunity to verify this; 

16 



216 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

but the name appears to him to be a Creek Indian word containing a 
reference to the Shawnee Indians, who had towns not far to the 
westward of it, one of which the Creeks called Sawanolgi. The 
Suwannee is navigable for large steamers as far as the mouth of the 
Santa Fe, which drains Lake Santa Fe (p. 211), and for smaller boats 
for some distance above that point ; and there is a regular line of 
steamboats to and from Cedar Keys, a trip upon which is one of the 
most attractive pleasures of Florida travel, and offers great oppor- 
tunities to the sportsman. 

West from Ellaville the railway crosses through Madison 
County, the principal station being Madison, the county seat. This 
county produces more cotton (long staple) than any other in Florida, 
and is also an extensive producer of fruit, especially grapes and figs. 
To the southward lies Taylor County, along the Gulf of Mexico, 
which is largely a vast swamp, almost unexplored, and harboring 
bears, pumas, deer, and smaller game. Crossing Aucilla River, into 
Jefferson County, the train reaches Drifton, the terminus of a branch 
of the Savannah, Florida & Western Railway, which comes south 
from Thomasville, Ga. (p. 51), and forms the ordinary approach from 
the north and east to Tallahassee. Five miles north of Drifton on this 
railroad is Monizcello (pop.; 1,700; St. Elmo, $4), which is the county 
seat and a flourishing market town, steadily growing into an impor- 
tant place. Its wide streets are described as shaded by superb trees, 
and often bordered by gardens where roses bloom the year round, 
and old-fashioned Southern mansions which stand among oaks and 
magnolias. Three miles north is the big Lake Miccosukie, which is 
surrounded by a forest of remarkable size and variety, and whose 
outlet disappears into a great sink-hole a short distance south of its 
borders. Continuing west of Drifton, the road crosses the head- 
waters of the St. Marks River and arrives at Tallahassee, 165 miles 
west of Jacksonville. 

Tallahassee (pop., 3.500; The Leon, $3-5o; St. James, $2.50) was 
originally the territorial capital of Florida, and, when the territory 
was admitted into the Union (1845), was retained as the capital of the 
new State; the name is derived from a Seminole word meaning " old 
city." During the first Seminole War, in 1818, Gen. Andrew Jackson 
cleared away the rebellious Indians then occupying the locality and 
the town was soon built up by settlers from the nearer States. The 
subsequent wars with Indians and white people have disturbed it but 
little, and the trees and gardens have attained to so magnificent a 
growth that they are now the glory of the city. 



FLORIDA. 217 

In 1861 the Florida Ordinance of Secession was passed at Talla- 
hassee and many of its citizens enlisted, although those left behind 
were sufficient to repel, at the Natural Bridge (p. 218), in one of the 
severest battles of the State's record, an attempted attack of the Fed- 
erals, made mainly by colored troops, who approached by way of St. 
Marks. The United States troops occupied the city, only as a pre- 
cautionary measure, after hostilities ended. 

The city covers the top of a hill nearly 300 feet above the sea- 
level, which is surrounded by other hills, between which the eye can 
see far into the country. It thus secures, not only some charming 
views, but a most healthful climate, dry, yet tempered by the strong 
Gulf winds, and highly advantageous to those invalided by throat 
or lung troubles. The original Ordinance of Secession, and several 
interesting war relics, maps, torn battle-flags, and the like, can be 
seen in the old State House, which was erected in 1835, and, like 
many of the houses in the city, is a good example of colonial archi- 
tecture. Built of brick and stucco, with a stately portico, it stands in 
the midst of a grove of noble trees, on the brow of the hill, near the 
south end of Main Street. 

The soil about Tallahassee forms very good roads, and excursions 
are pleasantly made to Lake Bradford, three miles from the city, and 
to Lake Jackson, a large sheet of water which was so disturbed, by 
the same earthquake that upset Charleston in 1886, that it entirely 
disappeared through some subterranean outlet, taking several days 
to fill up again. It is well, apropos of this disappearace, to warn 
people against driving carelessly about this part of Florida, since the 
whole region is undermined by subterranean rivers, and often an 
apparently shallow puddle will disguise a bottomless sink-hole. 

Pi'incc Mu7-at, son of the King of Naples, and his Virginian wife, 
lived at their estate on a hill two miles west of the Tallahassee rail- 
way station. The graves of both are in the Episcopal cemetery, 
a few minutes' walk west of the Leon Hotel. At Lake Hall, six 
miles northeast on the Thomasville road, there is good fishing, and 
other lakes more distant furnish hunting as well as fishing grounds. 
Be Hair is an old suburb, a summer resort of Tallahassee society in 
former days, and is situated in the flat pine lands, on the St. Marks 
branch of the Florida Central & Peninsular Railroad. IVakiilla is 
another station on this branch, sixteen miles from Tallahassee, and 
is the stopping place for Wakulla Spring, which is also a favorite 
objective for long drives from Tallahassee. Here is a tremendous 
outpour of water, as clear as crystal for a depth of more than a hun- 



218 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

dred feet, supplying the Wakulla River, that joins the St. Marks 
River at the little town of St. Marks. 

St. Marks is the terminus of this branch, twenty-one miles from 
Tallahassee, and the point of departure for excursion steamers and 
boating-parties out on the Gulf and up the St. Marks River. A fort 
of considerable strength, San Marcos de Apalache, of which some 
ruins still remain, two miles south of the present town, was built by 
the Spaniards in 1718. In 1862 a redoubt was thrown up near the 
lighthouse, on the point at the debouchment of the St. Marks River, 
but was destroyed by a United States gunboat. The river itself was 
somewhat used as a refuge for blockade-runners during the Civil 
War, but the vigilance of the Federal gunboats along the west coast 
made such business extremely risky. The Confederates erected salt 
works on the river in 1863, from which the Confederacy was supplied, 
but they, too, were destroyed by boat-crews from the Federal gun- 
boat, " Tahoma," that had shelled the redoubt. 

The stream St. Marks is believed to rise in Lake Miccosukee; its 
course can be traced by a series of open stretches of water and sinks, 
for much of the time it is underground. It is fed by many mineral 
springs, its water is of crystal purity, and no snags are found in it, 
though there is a tropical richness of vegetation along the banks. 
There were once three towns on its shores that are now little more 
than landings ; or, rather, one town existed in three places. Sixty 
years ago this whole district was covered with plantations, and Port 
Leon stood near the site of the present lighthouse, and was a ship- 
ping town of size and importance. But a terrific hurricane wiped it 
out of existence, along with plantations and. planters. Those citizens 
who survived rebuilt their town at Magnolia, eight miles up the river, 
but as a ledge of rocks obstructed the passage to the landing, they 
gradually moved down and reinstalled the town at Newport, near a 
great mineral spring, which became a watering-place of note in that 
region; but unfortunately a railroad was completed from Jacksonville 
to Tallahassee, which took away its shipping trade. Newport still 
exists, but in a very feeble fashion, though the large white sulphur 
spring, the cause of its former vogue, is beginning to attract tourists 
again. It can be reached by an excursion steamer. Above Newport 
the St. Marks River takes to underground ways, sinking for half a 
mile beneath an arch in one place, and thus forming the Natural 
Bridge. 

The main line of the Florida Central & Peninsular Rd. passes 
westward from Tallahassee out of Leon County, which is a great 
grass and hay-producing section in which live-stock and dairy farm- 
ing prospers, into Gadsden County, whose capital is Qznncy, a mile 
north of the railroad station of that name. Northern capitalists have 



PLORIDA. 219 

revived the tobacco-growing industry here, and fine Havana wrap- 
pers are successfully raised on more than 15,000 acres, sustaining 
several cigar manufactories in Quincy. 

At the end of the line are the three stations Chattahoochee, River 
Junction, and Chattahoochee River, respectively 207, 208, 209 miles 
from Jacksonville. The first is a small village where, before the Civil 
War, was an arsenal of the United States Government. Before the 
State had seceded, this arsenal was seized by disunionists to whom the 
sergeant in charge had indignantly refused to surrender it — the 
first act of war in Florida; and afterward the building became a 
lunatic asylum. River Jiiiictioji is the point of connection with the 
Louisville & Nashville Rd. for Pensacola (p. 52), Mobile, and 
New Orleans. At Chattahoochee River there is the wharf where 
passengers can take steamers up and down the Apalachicola, Flint, 
and Chattahoochee rivers. Of these there are two lines, furnishing 
a boat for all points every two or three days. 



VI. 

ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST. 



Route 27.— Queen & Crescent Line. 

Chattanooga to New Orleans and Shreveport. 

This is the continuation of Route i8, and follows the line of the 
Alabama Great Southern Railway, which passes from Chattanooga 
(p. loo) around Moccasin Bend, under the point of Lookout Moun- 
tain, and up Lookout Creek, over ground fiercely contested during 
the campaigns of 1863-4. 

One very severe encounter of that time took place about 
Wau hate hie, six miles out on the road leading from Lookout Moun- 
tain to Kelly's Ferry. Grant, in command at Chattanooga, wishing 
to open a direct road for supplies, ordered Hooker, then at Bridge- 
port, to cross the Tennessee to Lookout Valley, and menace Bragg's 
left. He reached the place October 28, 1S63, and sent General 
Geary with a small force to encamp at Wauhatchie, being anxious 
to hold the desired road to Kelly's Ferry. At one o'clock the next 
morning, McLaw's division of Longstreet's corps, which was then 
occupying Lookout Mountain, and which had been observant of 
Hooker's movements, attacked Geary's camp on three sides, aided 
by the batteries on the mountain, and hoping to overcome and 
capture Hooker's entire command. But they were met by a steady, 
deadly fire, the Federals were soon reinforced by Hooker, who had 
heard the commotion, and the Confederates were beaten off with the 
loss of 250 men, killed and prisoners, and many small arms. The 
National loss was over 400 killed and wounded. This victory 
opened a safe road for the passage of Federal supplies from Bridge- 
port to Chattanooga. 

The Battle of Wauhatchie was the scene of the incident that 
inspired the poem — a parody of the " Charge of the Six Hundred": 

" Mules to the right of them — 

Mules to the left of them — 

Mules all behind them 
Pawed, neighed, and thundered. 

Breaking their own confines — 

Breaking through Longstreet's lines, 

Testing chivalric spines, 
Into the Georgia lines 
Stormed the two hundred." 
(220) 



ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST. 221 

This records the dash of 200 mules, which, frightened by the com- 
motion of the battle, stampeded into the Confederate lines, early in 
the fight, and caused a panic among the soldiers, who fancied that 
Hooker's cavalry was charging among them. 

The road is here crossing the extreme northwest corner of 
Georgia. This is the mountain-girt fastness in which, long years 
ago, the isolated population attempted to set up a^ little common- 
wealth of their own, to be called the State of Dade. But Georgia 
"called them down," and would do nothing more liberal than to 
organize the triangle into a county. Now vast quantities of coal 
and coke come from the mines in the rough Raccoon Range, on the 
west, where there is a mining center and coke-burning place called 
Cole City, reached by a rickety little railroad from Shell Mound. 
Alabama is entered just bej^ond Tj'entofi, the county seat of Dade, 
the low divide (1,027 ft.), separating the drainage of the Tennessee 
from that to the Gulf of Mexico (Coosa River), is passed at Valley 
Head, and the first stop by through trains is made at Fort Payne 
(51 m.) This town (De Kalb, $2; Sulphur Springs, special rates) 
was founded, in 1889, by Northern owners of mining and furnace 
property, who have built up here a flourishing manufacturing town, 
which is now the county seat of De Kalb, and has about 4,000 
population. It is an incorporated city, with water, sewerage, elec- 
tric lights, etc. Near by are beds of coal, of which great quantities 
are turned into coke, and vast deposits of brown iron ore, which is 
extensively mined and smelted on the spot. As good stone, clay, 
fire-clay, and great forests are near by, these resources have all 
contributed to increase and diversify the manufactures here, which 
now include iron furnaces, steel mills, rolling mills, hardware, tile, 
fire brick, and terra cotta works, potteries, lumber mills, etc. An 
east and west line connects the town with the Chattanooga Southern 
Railway, and with the mining districts west. It is a fertile and very 
beautiful valley (of Will's Creek), down which the train pursues a 
straight southwesterly course to Attalla (36 m.). Lookout Mountain 
is close upon the left, until it disappears at Keene's, while on the 
right, is the long parallel Sand or Raccoon Range. At Attalla 
(pop., 1,500; Attalla House, $2.50), an iron manufacturing town, the 
tracks are crossed by a branch of the Nashville, Chattanooga & St. 
Louis Rd. from Huntsville, through Guntersville (Wyeth City), on 
the Tennessee, to Gadsden and southward. Gadsden is only five 
miles east of Attalla. 



222 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN- STATES. 

Wyeth City is a new town merging into the old village of Gun- 
tersville. Coal, limestone, and iron abound in the immediate vicinity. 
"The conditions there are therefore such as caused the marvelous 
development of Birmingham and Anniston. The present manufac- 
tures at this new point are such as to utilize the abundant wood of 
the locality, and convert it into carved furniture, doors, sash and 
blinds, and woodenware. The capitalists interested in the new city 
are intent upon securing the establishment of iron-working and 
cotton and woolen factories there in the near future." The direct 
railway connections north and south, and the navigability of the 
Tennessee River, make the situation of the town very convenient for 
commercial purposes. 

Below Attalla the railroad runs through a well-settled, agricultural 
country, with many small stations, fifty-four miles to the manufactur- 
ing metropolis of the State. 

Birmingham (pop., with suburbs, 40,000; Florence, $2.50; Hotel 
Morris, European plan; Opera House, American and European plan; 
Metropolitan, special rates) is picturesquely situated among the 
wooded hills and ravines between the Cahawba and Black Warrior - 
rivers, and is an interesting, well built, modern city, gradually ac- 
quiring many beauties. Its electric cars run into pleasant hill-sub- 
urbs, where several parks and pleasure-gardens have been instituted; 
and excellent sport is to be had at no great distance. The score or 
more of railways and branches, reaching out from the city in all 
directions to coal and iron mines among the surrounding mountains, 
afford an endless variety of interesting excursions and sights; and 
the climate is healthful, the altitude of the city being over 600 feet, 
with suburban parts much higher above the level of the sea. 

Mining and Mafiufacttiring are the features of first interest at 
Birmingham, and these have been so broadly and admirably summed 
up by Julian Ralph, in a late article in Harper's Magazine (March, 
1895), that it will be well to quote his remarks: 

" Birmingham is said to have been a farm at the close of the 
Rebellion, andbusy Anniston was a group of timbered hills very much 
later than that. There is a truly western flavor to the history of a 
land company in one of these cities. It divided more than $5,500,000 
with its stockholders in a little more than five years, upon an invest- 
ment of $100,000. 

"The new city of Birmingham in 1880 had sixty establishments 
and twenty-seven industries, and in 1890 its establishments numbered 
417 and its industries forty-eight, while the capital invested had 
swelled from two millions to seven millions of dollars. Its leading 
workshops are carriage and wagon factories, foundries, and machine- 
shops, three iron and steel working plants, planing mills, and print- 



ALABAMA AND THE GULF CO A SIT. 228 

ing and publishing works. In what is known as the Birmingham 
district there are twenty-five iron furnaces, with a capacity for 2,600 
tons of pig-iron daily. All are within twenty miles of the town. 
Consolidations of large companies have recently strengthened this 
remarkable iron center, adding to the economy with which its prod- 
ucts are obtained, and fitting it to meet a dull market better than 
before. Experts have declared that several of the works at this place 
stand as models in judicious construction and economical results to 
the whole country, and to Europe also. Some are so favorably 
located near ore and coal that it has been proved that nowhere in this 
country, and scarcely anywhere in Europe, can iron be made as 
cheaply as they can make it." 

This industrial activity and success has attracted a great number 
of railways and given the city extraordinary competitive transporta- 
tion facilities, which has led to the establishment here of a large 
wholesale trading business. The city is a station on the through 
lines of the Queen & Crescent and Louisville & Nashville routes north 
and south, and on the Southern Railway east and west. It is a 
terminus of the Central Railroad of Georgia, of a branch of the 
Southern from the south, and of the Kansas City, Memphis & Birm- 
ingham, and the Birmingham, Sheffield & Tennessee River Railroad 
from the west. In addition there are various local lines and through 
connections by which Ijhe city may be quickly and comfortably 
reached from all parts of the south and west. 

South from Birmingham the present route follows the tracks of 
the Alabama Great Southern road through Bessejner (pop., 5,000; 
The Hadden, $2), a steel-making suburb of Birmingham (11 m.), 
and turns westward to Tuscaloosa, the county town of Tuscaloosa 
County; an old military frontier post that became the capital of 
the territory; a fine, old-fashioned town at the head of steamboat 
navigation on the Black Warrior River, and the seat of the State 
University. It has large dealings in cotton. The line then follows 
down the rich river valley to Akron Junction, where it is joined by a 
branch of the Southern Railway leading southeast to Greensboro, 
Marion, Selma, and Montgomery; crosses the Black Warrior and pro- 
ceeds to Eutaw (pop., 1,200; Alexina, $2.50), another cotton market. 
Thence it takes a straight course southwest, crossing the Tombigbee 
River at Miller, to Meridian, Miss. 

Meridian (pop., 10,624; Planter's, special rates; Southern, $3; 
Grand Avenue, $2) is a large industrial city having a steady growth 
due to the large area of cotton-growing country tributary to it, and 
its railway advantages. The Mobile & Ohio extends south 135 miles 



224 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

to Mobile (p. 231), and north to Hickman, Ky., and the Southern 
Railway's line passes through east and west from Selma (Route 26, 
p. i32)to Jackson and Vicksburg. Here the Alabama Great Southern 
terminates, and the Queen & Crescent trains pass to the tracks of 
the New Orleans & Northeastern Railroad which extend thence to 
New Orleans. 

This road from Meridian southwest passes through a thinly 
settled, but wonderfully beautiful part of Mississippi — a rolling 
country of trees, forests, and crystal streams, where deer and bear 
are still to be found, and where wild turkeys and such game are 
abundant. "When finally you reach Lake Poiichar train you are 
treated to a most extraordinary trip on the water, for you cross over 
the lake on the longest bridge in the world, it, with its approaches, 
being over sixteen miles in length. When you reach the middle of 
the bridge, and see the land dimly in the distance, you can but feel 
as if you were at sea, while the strong but pleasant lake breeze pours 
through the cars, and the red-sailed Italian luggers sail alongside 
the train." 

The station in New Orleans is on the Levee at the foot of Press 
Avenue, about two miles from Canal Street, which is reached by the 
Rampart & Dauphine and Barracks & Levee lines of street cars. 

This line runs daily a solid vestibuled train of the highest excel- 
lence through between Cincinnati and New Orleans, also a sleeping- 
car between New York and New Orleans, and a sleeper between 
Chattanooga and Shreveport, La. 

Route 28.— Louisville & Nashville Railroad to Mobile 
and New Orleans. 

The Louisville & Nashville Railroad Company operates exten- 
sive lines between the Ohio River and the Gulf of Mexico, and 
transports solid trains and through sleeping-cars between various 
terminal points. Its lines concentrate from the North at Nashville, 
with the exception of the " Jellico Route," already described as 
Route 17, p. 91. 

1. From St. Louis via Evansville, Ind., and Guthrie, Ky. This 
carries (i) a sleeping-car between St. Louis and Jacksonville, via 
Evansville, Nashville, Birmingham, Montgomery, Bainbridge, 
Thomasville, and Waycross; (2) a sleeping-car between St. Louis 
and Atlanta, via Evansville, Nashville, and Route 19. 

2. From Cincinnati and Louisville, carrying sleeping-cars (i) 
between Louisville and Nashville; (2) between Cincinnati and Louis- 
ville and Memphis, via Guthrie, Ky. ; (3) between Cincinnati and New 



ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST. 225 

Orleans; and (4) between Cincinnati and Jacksonville, via Mont- 
gomery and the Plant System. 

The Nashville, Paducah &^ Cairo and the Nashville 6n> 
Evansville Packet Coinpa7iies have several steamers leaving Nash- 
ville tri-weekly for Evansville, Cairo, and intermediate points. 

Only one point north of Nashville need claim attention, and 
that briefly, in this book — 

The Mammoth Cave. — All trains now connect at Glasgow Junc- 
tion, ninety miles south of Louisville, with trains on the Mammoth 
Cave Railroad, direct to the Cave Hotel (12 m.) A stop-over is 
allowed on all tickets over the L, & N. Rd. At the hotel 
guides and boats can be procured. Some 200 miles of cave have now 
been explored, but only a small portion, though characteristic and 
sufficiently wonderful, is seen by the ordinary visitor, who can 
choose between the shorter route ($2) and a longer one ($3). As the 
cave keeps a uniform temperature of about 55 degrees F., the season 
of the year is a matter of no consequence. Special low rates, both at 
the hotel and in cave-fees, can be obtained for large parties by 
addressing the hotel proprietor. Twelve hours gives time enough 
for a hasty trip underground. 

Nashville (pop., 85,000; Duncan, I4; Maxwell, $3; Nicholson, 
$3; Linck's, $2.50; Utopia, European plan) is the most populous 
city and capital of the State. It covers a hilly site on both sides of 
the Cumberland River, and has many attractive features. The 
locality was first settled in 1780, and as early as 1806 the town became 
an incorporated city, and the capital in 1843. It was abandoned in 
a panic by all the military and civil officials and as many of the 
people as could get away, when the fall of Fort Donelson (p. 87) 
exposed it to Grant's Union army, who marched in and took quiet 
possession. The city was at once policed, and life there continued 
much as usual, the city being held by the Federals as the great 
central depot of supplies until the close of the war. This possession 
was threatened, however, in 1864, by Hood's invasion of Ten- 
nessee to the very gates of the city, from which he was repelled at 

The Battle of Nashville. — This great struggle, which destroyed 
the Confederate power in the West, occurred as follows: When Gen. 
J. B. Hood was compelled to evacuate Atlanta, he moved north and 
tried to destroy Sherman's railroad communications with Chatta- 
nooga. He did much damage, but w^as soon driven away, and then 
turned into Xorthern Alabama, trying to lure Sherman out of Georgia 



226 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TES. 

in pursuit, but that commander declined and turned back to begin 
his " March to the Sea," as has been told imder Route 21 (p. 124), 
leaving Hood encamped along the Tennessee River, near Florence, 
Ala. This was early in November, 1864. 

At this time the Union army in Tennessee was commanded by Gen. 
George H. Thomas, who kept a part of his force at Pulaski, Tenn., to 
watch Hood and check his advance. This was finally increased to 
30,000 men, and put under command of General Schofield. On 
November 17th, Hood, who had about 45,000, began a northward 
advance in such a way as to pass around the Union force. Scho- 
field's orders were not to fight a battle if he could avoid it, but to 
retreat slowly to Nashville, retarding the enemy as much as he could. 
There was a slight skirmish at Columbia on the 21st, and on the 30th 
Schofield had arrived at Franklin. Hood followed closely and 
reached Franklin in time to make an attack next day. The fight was 
very desperate and sanguinary. The Confederate generals led their 
men in repeated charges, and many field-officers fell, and the fighting 
continued with great severity until long after the night closed in, 
when the Confederates drew off. The losses on both sides in this 
battle amounted to about 2,000 killed and nearly 5,000 wounded. 
Thomas made no effort to reinforce Schofield at Franklin, as military 
critics are disposed to think he should have done, and so make the 
decisive battle there instead of waiting until Hood came to Nashville, 
but ordered Schofield to continue his retreat to the city. Hood 
immediately followed and invested Nashville almost without inter- 
ference. Meanwhile Thomas had been making active preparations 
to hold the town, which was very strongly fortified. He had received 
reinforcements, and had armed and placed in the intrenchments 
10,000 detailed and citizen-employes of the quartermaster's depart- 
ment. 

This position of affairs gave great encouragement to the South 
and caused the keenest anxiety at Washington and throughout the 
North. General Grant, then in command of all the armies, and 
operating before Richmond, urged Thomas in the most emphatic 
manner to move against the enemy without delay; but it was two 
weeks before he felt himself ready. Grant writes in his " Memoirs " 
that Thomas had troops to annihilate Hood in the open field. ' ' To 
me, his delay was unaccountable — sitting there and permitting him- 
self to be invested, so that, in the end, to raise the siege, he would 
have to fight the enemy strongly posted behind fortifications. It is 
true the weather was very bad. The rain was falling and freezing 
as it fell, so that the ground was covered with a sheet of ice that 
made it very difficult to move. But I was afraid that the enemy 
would find means of moving, elude Thomas, and manage to get 
north of the Cumberland River." 

Grant became so impressed by the momentous danger that he 
made preparations to supersede Thomas by Logan, and then on the 
15th of December he himself started to take personal command in the 
West. The reasons and circumstances which induced Thomas to 



ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST. 227 

permit Hood's investment, and the alarming delay that ensued, ha-ve 
been told by one of Thomas' staff-officers in an article upon the bat- 
tle, with illustrations, published in The Cetitury for 1887, p. 597. 

At last, on the morning of December 15, 1864, Thomas attacked 
Hood's fortifications and relieved the anxiety of the country. The 
story can not be more succinctly told thaa in Grant's words: 

" The battle during the 15th was severe, but favorable to Union 
troops, and continued until night closed in upon the combat. The next 
day the battle was renewed. After a successful assault upon Hood's 
men in their intrenchments, the enemy fled in disorder, routed and 
broken, leaving their dead, their artillery, and small arms in great 
numbers, on the field, besides the wounded that were captured. Our 
cavalry had fought on foot as infantry, and had not their horses with 
them, so that they were not ready to join in the pursuit the moment 
the enemy retreated. They sent back, however, for their horses, 
and endeavored to get to Franklin, ahead of Hood's broken army, by 
the Granny White road, but too much time was consumed in getting 
started, . , . Our cavalry then went into bivouac and renewed 
the pursuit on the following morning. They were too late. The 
enemy already had possession of Franklin and was beyond them. 
Our troops continued the pursuit to within a few miles of Columbia, 
where they found the rebels had destroyed the railroad bridge as well 
as all other bridges over Duck River. . . , There was, conse- 
quently, a delay of some four days in building bridges out of the 
remains of the old railroad bridge. Of course Hood got such a start 
in this time that further pursuit was useless, although it was con- 
tinued for some distance." 

The remnants of Hood's army made their way eastward, joined 
the forces of Joe Johnston, and were a part of that army when it was 
surrendered to Sherman a few months later. 

Nashville is now one of the most flourishing of Southern cities. It 
has extensive manufactures of all sorts, especially of hard-wood 
wares, and flour mills of enormous capacity. It is regularly laid out, 
is well built in its central part, has good water and drainage, gas, 
electricity, and a large system of electric street-railways. These all 
center at the Public Square, which is adorned by the Court House, 
whose Corinthian porticoes on all sides make it a very striking build- 
ing. The Federal custom house and post office, a Gothic structure 
costing $1 ,000,000, is also conspicuous. The most important building 
in the city, however, is the State Capitol, which stands on the summit 
of Capitol Hill and is approached on four sides by flights of marble 
steps and ornamental terraces. It is built of a fine fossiliferous lime- 
stone, is imposing in style, and is surmounted by a tower 206 feet 
high. During the siege of the city it became a military citadel, the 
grounds were filled with troops and the hill and even the porticoes 
bristled with cannon. ■ Other State institutions here are the Peni- 



228 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TE S. 

tentiary and asylums for the blind and the insane. The educational 
institutions of Nashville are among its strongest claims to notice. 
Of these the leading one is Vanderbilt University, which has been 
munificently endowed by the Vanderbilt family, based upon an origi- 
nal gift of |i, 000,000 by the old commodore, and occupies twenty 
buildings on grounds seventy-six acres in extent. It offers a wide 
range of the higher studies and has from 700 to 800 students annually, 
making it the largest collegiate institution in the South. The Uni- 
versity of Nashville is another well established college, operating in 
connection with the Peabody Normal College. It has fine buildings 
and about 300 students, and its library and museum (in th® medical 
department) are well worth visiting. Fisk University is a well known 
and successful college for colored students, and there are several 
other advanced schools for the education of this race. In the Wat- 
kifis Institute are the Haward Library and the rooms and galleries 
of the Historical and the Art associations of the city. The National 
Cemetery, containing 16,533 bodies of Union soldiers who fell in the 
West, 4,701 of whom are unknown, occupies a beautiful situation four 
miles to the northward. There are many medicinal springs and 
popular mountain resorts in the neighborhood, especially to the 
north and east. 

The Cumberland River is open to navigation nearly all the year 
round, and has several lines of steamboats upon which pleasant jour- 
neys can be made. Railroads radiate from Nashville in all directions. 

(i) North to Evansville, Louisville, Cincinnati, and other points 
on the Ohio River — all in the Louisville & Nashville system. 

(2) West to the Mississippi River at Cairo, Hickman, and Memphis. 
Five miles in this direction is Gen. W. H. Jackson's famous stock 
farm Belle Meade. 

(3) East up the Cumberland Valley. In this direction are several 
places of note. Hermitage, the home and plantation of Andrew 
Jackson, President of the United States, 1829 to 1837, is distant 
twelve miles and is a fine example of the old-time southern rural 
manor house. The owner is buried within the grounds. 

(4) Southeast to Chattanooga. Route 19. 

(5) South by the Louisville & Nashville Railroad, as follows: 

The Louisville & Nashville Route, 

South from Nashville, passes through a hilly, cultivated, and very 
pleasant region, with stations at Franklin, nineteen miles, and 



ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST. 229 

Columbia, forty-seven miles. These are the two battle towns 
described above. At Columbia (pop., 6,000; Bethel, $2.50; Guest, $2; 
Metropolitan, special rates), on Duck River, a line diverges southwest 
to Lawrenceburgh and Florence (p. 99); and another southeast 
through Lewisburg, Fayetteville, and a region abounding in mineral 
springs to Huntsville and Decherd. The main line continues 
straight south through Pulaski, enters Alabama, just after crossing 
Elk River, and crosses the Tennessee fourteen miles beyond Athens, 
into Decatur (p. 99). The course from this point is as straight 
south as the foothills of the Cumberland Mountains will permit, 
traversing a rather sparsely cultivated, heavily forested, and hilly 
country. Fifty-two miles south of Decatur are the Blount Sprmgs, 
a well-known medicinal resort, where a strongly alkaline sulphur 
water is available for the cure of all the diseases to which it is 
suited. The property and hotel are owned by a company who have 
provided every facility for baths, etc. The hotel stands in a 
picturesquely hilly and forested country, 450 feet above the sea. 
Thirty-four miles south from Blount Springs brings the traveler to 
Birmingham (Route 27). The next point is Calera, thirty-three 
miles south; after which there is a run of sixty miles to the crossing 
of the Alabama River, three miles north of 

Montgomery. The capital of Alabama (pop., 25,000; Galatas and 
Fleming hotels, European plan; Exchange, $2.50; Windsor, I2.50 
Mabson's, $2) is near the head of practicable navigation on the 
Alabama, and owes its first rise to that fact. Steamboats actually 
ascend to Wetumpka — the site of the prehistoric Upper Creek town 
at the rapids of the Coosa, forty-two miles (by river), above Mont- 
gomery. The Alabama is formed by the confluence, ten miles above 
the city, of the Coosa and Tallapoosa rivers; some miles above their 
junction they are separated at bends, by only a narrow ridge of land, 
and there was strategically placed Fort Jackson, a frontier military 
post for protection against the Creeks, who had been beaten in 18 14 
by Jackson. Montgomery was founded in 181 7, and Alabama was 
admitted as a State in 18 19; but Tuscaloosa was its first capital, and 
the government was not removed to Montgomery until 1847. The 
State House, a fine old building now enlarged, amid a large park in 
the center of the city, from whose dome an excellent view is obtained, 
was erected in 1851. That part of Alabama early became a very rich 
cotton-grownng region, besides furnishing iron, lumber, and various 
other products; and Montgomery soon became the principal market- 



230 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

town of a wide territory, and the residence of its most wealthy and 
influential men whose fine old-fashioned homes remain to make this 
one of the best examples of a fine old Southern town. Here on 
February 4, 1861, the convention of the six States that then proposed 
to secede from the Union, assembled, and, in the Legislative Hall 
of the capitol, organized the provisional government of a new league 
which they hoped to organize into a separate commonwealth, to be 
styled " The Confederate States of America." This government was 
transferred to Richmond, Va., July 20, 1861. Its remote position and 
lack of strategic importance saved this city from the consequences of 
this act almost to the last days of the ineffectual government thus 
organized, for it was not until April, 1865, after the surrender of Lee 
and Johnston (p. 42), that Wilson's federal cavalrymen entered the 
town and destroyed its iron works and railways. Then, as now, 
Montgomery was a manufacturing as well as commercial city, having 
collieries (near by), rolling mills, railway shops, and varied factories. 
At present the cotton mills are most important; 150,000 bales of 
cotton are said to be handled at Montgomery annually, and the local 
spinning of this staple is very large. Besides the capitol, the Federal 
building, the city hall, court house, and new railroad station are 
notable buildings. 

The Alabama River pursues a very crooked course westward as 
far as Selma, where it turns southward, and, in the southwest corner 
of the State, unites with the Tombigbee River, draining the western 
edge of the State, to form the Mobile River, which empties into 
Mobile Bay. It is 330 miles by the river from Montgomery to 
Mobile — a voyage of picturesque interest — or more than twice the 
distance by rail. 

Montgomery is a railway center of importance, eight lines radiat- 
ing from its Union station. 

(i) The east and west line of the Western Railway of Alabama, 
continuing west to Selma (p. 131), Route 25. 

(2) The Savannah, Americus & Montgomery Railroad to Savan- 
nah (p. 21). 

(3) Central Rd. of Georgia southeast to Union Springs, Eufaula, 
and southern connections. 

(4) Alabama Midland Railway — a part of the Plant System , extend- 
ing southeast through Troy and Ozark to Bainbridge and Thomas- 
ville(p. 51); this way passes a sleeping-car over the Louisville & Nash- 
ville Route and Plant System between St. Louis and Jacksonville, 

(5) The present route north and south, as follows: 



ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST. 231 

From Montgomery southward the Louisville & Nashville Line 
makes its way through a wooded, agricultural region, gradually 
becoming the level lowlands of the coast region, and taking on the 
characteristics of these warm latitudes. The heads of numerous 
streams are crossed, all draining southeast into the Persimmon 
and Sepulga rivers. The principal stations are Greenville (pop., 
3,000), Evergreen (pop., 2,000; Magnolia, I2.50), and Brewton (pop., 
1,200). At Flomaton, on the Escambia, where a branch comes in 
from Pensacola (p. 52) forty-three miles directly south, the route 
turns sharply west, crosses the Escambia River, runs along the 
edge of Florida to the crossing of the Perdido, and then bends 
southward to Tensas, where it crosses successively the Apalachee 
and Mobile rivers, and turns down the right bank of the latter into 
the city of Mobile. The remarkable bridges and general engineer- 
ing difficulties of this last section of the line will attract the attention 
of men of practical knowledge in such matters. 

Mobile (pop., 55,000; Battle House, I3; Windsor, $2.50; South- 
ern, European plan) is the seaport and principal commercial city of 
Alabama, and is situated on the western bank of Mobile River, at 
the head of Mobile Bay, about thirty-five miles from the open gulf. 

"Like Savannah, Charleston, and the French quarter of New 
Orleans, Mobile ^till remains characteristically Southern. Her avenues 
are broad and well shaded, the dwellings large anji airy, and half 
hidden in exquisite gardens and sloping lawns. Even in the poorer 
streets, roses, magnolias, camellias, and jasmine fill the air with 
fragrance. The pretentious brick houses with Mansard roofs and 
colored glass, so common in Eastern cities, which the Northern 
and Jewish newcomers are beginning to erect, in some of the South- 
ern towns (quite unconscious, apparently, that they are not only 
ugly, but totally unstiited to a warm, damp climate), have not as yet 
vulgarized Mobile's old-time grace. She turns to the stranger a 
quiet, home-hke, friendly face, with that indefinable gracious air of 
good breeding in it. which only generations of ease and hospitality 
can give even to houses. No money or architect can impart it to 
blocks of magnificent mansions built for display." 

Mobile as a business town is of growing importance. Her net 
receipts of cotton, in 1894-5, were 240,220 bales, one-half of which 
was exported, 10,626 bales going to Mexico. She has powerfttl 
presses and gins, mills for making cotton-seed oil, and factories for 
cotton cloth. Lumber and naval stores are also an important 
article of commerce, while iron mills and foundries, railway and 
other machine shops, shipyards, carriage furniture, barrel and 
woodenware factories are among her industries. 

;9 



233 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TE S. 

Steamships run from Mobile to Liverpool, Mexico (Vera Cruz), and 
Cuba; the last named is the Plant System's weekly line to Port 
Tampa, Key West, and Havana. There are also boats that go far up 
the rivers and around the bay. Here comes in the Mobile & Ohio 
Railroad (Route 29), and the road from Selma, connecting with the 
Southern Railway (Route 26). 

The neighborhood of the city affords delightful excursions and the 
city contains a great deal to interest the observant traveler, as has 
been suggested above. Government Street is one of the finest urban 
avenues in the South. The Shell Road has long been famous. It is 
a shell-paved boulevard, running for several miles down the shore of 
the bay, bordered by old and far-spreading oaks and magnolias, 
thickly hung with the graybeard moss. Old plantation houses and 
suburban residences alternate with newer structures, and the whole 
length is instructive and delightful. Frascati and Belleview are 
pleasant places down this road, on the shore, reached by street cars. 
Spring Hill is a favorite suburb, six miles west, connected with the 
city by a steam railroad from St. Francis Street, and containing a 
Jesuit college (St. Joseph's), founded in 1832, and well equipped. 

The Bay affords splendid fishing in great variety, and excursions 
by sailing craft or steamboat are always to be included among possi- 
ble pleasures at Mobile. Daphne and Point Clear are villages on the 
eastern shore, where there are hotels. 

In History Mobile has borne a prominent and picturesque part, 
for the city is one of the oldest settlements within the United States. 
It was visited by the earliest Spaniards, but its permanent story 
begins with the arrival of Iberville, in 1699, who sailed along this 
coast with a well -equipped and scientific French expedition, in search 
of the mouth of the Mississippi, which LaSalle had recently descended 
almost to its outlet. Consult John Fiskes* ' ' Basin of the Mississippi." 

Iberville entered the bay, sounded it, learned that it was not the 
mouth of the river he was seeking, and left it behind; but it appears 
on his map fairly well drawn. Continuing west between the line of 
islands and the mainland, through the broad reaches of Mississippi 
Sound, he discovered the features of the coast, got acquainted with 
the Indians, and finally was led overland by them to the Great River. 
Returning, he left a garrison, under his brother, Bienville, on Biloxi 
Bay, and sailed away to France to deliver to his king the proofs of 
what he had found for the possession of his country. In 1701 the 
French left Biloxi and established themselves at the head of Mobile 
Bay, but had poor success, finally sharing in the temporary prosperity 
and subsequent ruin brought to all that region by John Law and his 



ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST. 333 

famous •• Mississippi Scheme." In 1763. Mobile and the neighboring 
shore-settlements were regarded as a part of Florida and ceded by- 
France to England, but this shore was seized by Spain in 1779, who 
held it until the outbreak of the war between the United States and 
England, in 1812 (see Pensacola, p. 52), when the United States, 
under our interpretation of the cession of Louisiana from France, 
seized Mobile and some other places, as strategic points. The Span- 
iards were expelled and a battery (Fort Bowyer) was built on Mobile 
Point. This was the extremity of the long sandspit extending west- 
ward from the mainland across the mouth of the bay. This is 
continued westward of the entrance to the bay (where the improved 
channel is now twenty- three feet deep), by Dauphin Island, beyond 
which are Petit Bois, Horn, and the other long, narrow islands that 
form the outside barrier of Mississippi Sound. After the close of this 
war, when the country of Alabama began to be settled and Mobile 
became a port of importance, the United States erected a new fort 
(Morgan) at Mobile Point, and another (Gaines) on the opposite 
extremity of Dauphin Island, commanding the channel. 

Alabam.a was among the most ardent adherents of the secession 
movement, whose first capital was on her soil (p. 231). The Mobile 
Bay ports were seized, greatly strengthened and fully garrisoned, 
and the city was thoroughly fortified. For a long time it and 
Wilmington were the most important seaports the Confederates had, 
for the blockade could not be thoroughly preserved. It had been a 
part of Grant's plan to move upon Mobile immediately after the fall 
of Vicksburg, but he was prevented. A year later he gave orders 
for an attack upon it by the.army at New Orleans, under Canby, but 
that officer was so slow in preparations that nothing came of it. 
Sherman was undecided when he left Atlanta whether he would not 
march to Mobile instead of Savannah, but chose the latter. Hence 
Mobile remained untouched until nearly the end of the war. The 
harbor, however, was captured much sooner. In August, 1864, 
Admiral Farragut appeared off the coast with a fleet, headed by his 
flagship, the "Hartford." Lashing his vessels into couples, and 
forming a column, he boldly sailed past the forts, exchanging a 
terrific cannonade, and entered the bay, where a Confederate flotilla 
awaited him. This was the battle in which Farragut stood in the 
rigging, where he was lashed by direction of the captain of the 
" Hartford," in order to supervise the movements. No vessel was 
sunk by the forts, but the monitor " Tecumseh" was destroyed by a 
torpedo. The greatest of the Confederate vessels was the ram 
" Tennessee," which rushed at the flagship, but missed her and was 
beaten off. At night she returned to the attack, and a terrific battle 
ensued, which resulted in disabling her and forcing her to surrender. 
Nearly all the Confederate squadron was destroyed, and next day the 
land forces and fleet together captured the forts. These forces were 
not sufficient to land and capture the city, but as its harbor had now 
been hermetically sealed, and as Sherman had by this time got 
between it and the Virginian armies, its usefulness was mainly gone 
and Its capture of secondary moment. It I'emained thus, an almost 



234 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TE S. 

isolated stronghold, until the spring of 1865. It was then "the best 
fortified place in the Confederacy " and garrisoned b}'- 15,000 veteran 
troops. A large force, aided by the navy, attacked it on the east 
and north, and severe battles were fought at Blakely and Spanish 
Fort. The outer walls were gradually gained, and preparations for 
a final bombardment and assault were made, but on April nth the city 
was evacuated by the garrison, who escaped up the rivers on steam- 
boats. The Union loss of vessels, by torpedoes, and of lives was great, 
but the Confederates lost more, and abandoned $2,000,000 worth of 
military stores. 

Westward from Mobile, the Louisville & Nashville Route is close 
along the coast to New Orleans, 140 miles distant. Its first course is 
southwest forty miles to Scranton, Miss, (pop., 1,500; No^^es, $2; 
Scranton, $2), the county seat of Jackson, at the mouth of Pascagoula 
River, which Iberville explored in 1699. The railroad then crosses 
this river to the narrow Spanish Point, and west of that crosses 
Pascagoula Bay, then proceeds westward to Ocean Springs on Biloxi 
Bay. This is a pleasure resort, where Northwestern people assemble 
in winter, and are replaced by New Orleans folk in summer. The 
Ocean Springs Hotel ($2) and several large boarding-houses supply 
the transient need, and there are many cottages. Four miles west of 
Ocean Springs, and on the western side of Biloxi Bay, which is crossed 
by a long bridge, is Biloxi, the principal of tlie Mississippi resorts on 
this coast. It has been lately described in a sympathetic and charm- 
ingly illustrated article by Julian Ralph in //(a:;-/^?''^- Magazine for 
May, 1895, where the reader is given to understand that the villages 
along this coast are ' ' bits of dreamland " where nobody has the power 
to think or do anything serious — a land of natural and perfect rest 
and recreation. The village, which has some 3,500 inhabitants and 
three or four hotels, of which the most prominent is the Montross 
($2.50), is one of the oldest of the gulf resorts. 

" It is made up of little cottages of pretty and uncommon designs 
that have sprung from French beginnings. Often the second stories 
project beyond the parlor floors so as to provide a lower porch; and 
here and 'there are seen prettily shaped openings in the upper 
stories so as to make additional galleries. When vines trail up the 
house fronts and frame these galleries the effect is very pretty. 
Vegetation is abundant, the trees are of great size, and flowers grow 
in luxuriance, though it is whispered that there is sufficient chill 
in the air of winter nights to make it prudent to pull the potted 
plants in doors in cold spells. The green gardens and chromatic 
cottages lie prettily beside white sand streets, where there are no 
sidewalks, but borders of grass instead. Natives point out the trees 
as chinaberries, willows, cypresses, magnolias, oranges, pecans. 



ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST. 235 

plums, and apples. The people love the castor-bean, because it 
has a tropical look, I suppose, and thrives so well down there. I 
have seen fifty-three orange trees in one garden, checkered with 
golden fruit and greenery, and have found the oranges as deli- 
cious as any I ever ate. The buds come upon the trees before the 
fruit is plucked. The people in the tiny streets and gardens are 
extremely democratic. They talk to all who pass their way, and 
if a stranger like myself refuses to make a free exchange of his 
business for theirs, they will give up theirs quite as freely, if he will 
stop and listen. 

" These are often Western folk, -for our Eastern people have not 
discovered this perpetual summer land, but have allowed men and 
women from the other end of the Mississippi Valley to steal this march 
upon them. Therefore we find a small section of the place spoken of 
as a Michigan settlement, and in addition there are many regular 
winter visitors from Wisconsin, Iowa, and Illinois. They discovered 
the Gulf Coast about seven years ago, and make it a habit to come 
either in November or after the holidays, and to stay until warm 
weather reaches the North. The greater number go to Pass 
Christian, a rather new place, prettily spread along the beach, and 
with a large, well-managed hotel maintained by Chicago people. 
Ocean Springs, Bay St. Louis, and Biloxi are the other resorts. 
Biloxi, the oldest, is the most quaintly typical, slightly Frenchified 
Southern town of them all. Bathing, fishing, driving, and cottage 
and hotel life are the diversions. 

"A great many of these visitors buy cottages and modernize 
them, renting them for a $ioo or a $150 when they go away in the 
summer, at which time the New Orleans folk come along." 

Jefferson Davis, President of the Southern Confederacy, was the 
most distinguished of Biloxi's citizens, living at his country place, 
Beaiivoir, near by. He resided there after his release from Fortress 
Monroe, in 1867, until his death in 1889. The place is a tract of about 
ten acres, looking out upon the gulf, surrounded by forest and 
devoted mainly to the cultivation of the Scuppernong grape. The 
house, which is large and low, was an excellent example of the old- 
fashioned aristocratic planter's residence in the old South, and was 
beautifully adorned within. It is not now occupied and the whole 
place is rapidly falling into ruins. 

West of Biloxi the railroad runs close along the edge of the gulf, 
or, to be more exact, of Mississippi Sound, whose waters are protected 
from the outer sea by a line of tropically beautiful islands, most of 
which belong to the United States as military reservations. The 
station for Beauvoir (5m.) is passed and Mississippi City is 
reached. This is the county seat of Harrison, and is a pleasure 
resort much like Biloxi. (Gulf View, $2; Cedar Cottage, special 



SSe G UiDE TO SO UtnEA S TERN S TA TES. 

rates.) Gulfport, Long Beach, and Pass Christian are small stations 
frequented by pleasure-seekers and fishermen. The latter is on the 
east side (Henderson's Point) of St. Louis Bay, across which the rail- 
road is carried on trestles to the town of Bay St. Louis (pop., 2,000; 
Clifton, $2.50; Crescent, $2; Bay St. Louis, $2), the capital of 
Hancock County, and a seaside resort. A few miles farther the 
mouth of Pearl River and the outlet of Lake Ponchartrain are 
crossed, and the road passes through the dense swamps and cane- 
brakes that form a watery wilderness, separating the open lakes 
Ponchartrain and Borgne, and enters New Orleans. The station is 
on the Levee at the foot of Canal Street, where street cars may be 
taken to all parts of the city, and the various ferries and steamer 
lines are close at hand. 



Route 29.— Mobile & Ohio Railroad. 

The Mobile & Ohio Railroad is a long-established route between 
St. Louis (Union depot) and Mobile, with close connections to 
Florida by steamer, and to New Orleans at Meridian, Miss. Through 
sleeping-cars are attached to all trains. Its south-bound trains take 
a straight course from East St. Louis to Cairo, cross into Kentucky, 
and pass down through the low-lying, corn-growing, western end of 
this State, and of Tennessee, with Columbus, Union City, Jackson at 
the crossing of the Illinois Central Rd., and Henderson as the prin- 
cipal stations. This was the territory of the early campaigns of 1862, 
and was a raiding ground until the end of the Civil War. The first 
station in Mississippi is Corinth, twice the scene of hard battling 
(p. 97); and all the stations onward to Tupelo, where the Kan- 
sas City, Memphis & Birmingham Rd. is crossed, can tell stories 
of assault and repulse. At one of them, Booneville, twenty miles 
south of Corinth, and the judicial seat of Prentiss County, Sheridan 
won almost his first distinction as an independent cavalry com- 
mander, by skillfully and boldly routing a Confederate force three 
times as large as his own (July i, 1862). Tupelo, the capital of Lee 
County, was a Confederate military center, in 1862. Again, while 
Grant was operating against Vicksburg, his cavalry under Grierson 
were active in this northern part of the State, largely to prevent 
reinforcements being sent to Johnston, in Grant's rear (at Jackson, 
Miss.); and, for the sake of general purposes, they tore up this and 
all other railroads and telegraphs near here; destroyed a great 



Luray Caverns 



THE 



MANSION 
INN 



WALTER CAMPBELL, I iiqaV \/A 

Proprietor. L-Ur(AY^ VA 



RATES, $ 2.00 PER DAY. 

10.00 PER WEEK. 



Open Four Seasons of the 7ear. 
Bus to all Trains, and 
Transfer to Caverns, daily. 



STEAM HEAT, 

ELECTRIC BELLS, 

HOT AND COLD BATHS. 



ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST. 237 

amount of public property, factories, foundries, and the like; broke 
Johnston's communications by passing clear around his army, and 
finally swept through Southern Mississippi and the towns along the 
Gulf Coast, and around into the Union lines in Baton Rouge. It 
was one of the boldest and most successful raids of the war on either 
side. 

At Muldon, a branch (9 m.) leads northeast to Aberdeen (pop., 
3,500; Hotel Gordon, $2.50; Commercial, $2), county seat of Monroe. 
A few miles farther is West Point (junction). Here the Illinois 
Central Railroad's branch from Aberdeen to Kosciusko crosses the 
Mobile & Ohio, passing through Starkvz'He, county seat of Oktibbeha, 
and locality of the State Agricultural College, fifteen miles southwest. 
Here also crosses the Southern Railway's through route from 
Atlanta to the Mississippi River, at Greenville. Fifteen miles 
southeast is Columbus (pop., 15,000; Gilmer, ^2; West, $2), the 
largest city in Mississippi, which has grown up as a cotton- 
trading and manufacturing town of importance, within a few years. 
Birmingham is 119 miles distant, directly east. Columbus and 
Starkville are connected with the main line of the Mobile & Ohio 
by branches from Artesia, a junction (restaurant) thirteen miles 
south of West Point. The most beautiful part of Mississippi suc- 
ceeds, as the train runs straight south through a hilly and well- 
cultivated region to Merzdiaji (p. 223), where connections are made 
for New Orleans direct (Route 27), and east and west. From 
Meridian the road descends the Chickasawhay Valley, through Quit- 
man and Waynesboro as far as the northern border of Greene 
County, when it swerves eastward into Alabama, and heads straight 
for Mobile. In the northern part of Washington County, Alabama, 
reached from Bucatunna Station by daily stages, are the Healing 
Springs (Hotel, I2), which have a widely local reputation for their 
curative properties in all diseases of the digestive organs. The 
sanitarium is in the midst of elevated pine woods, and there are 
several springs whose water is not only drunk at the place, but 
shipped in kegs to customers elsewhere. Another station, on 
this line, is worthy of note — Cztrofielle, thirty-two miles north of 
Mobile, where the Hygeia Hotel (I2.50) offers a sanitarium and 
pleasure resort in the pine woods, which is much appreciated by 
the people of that region. Distance, St. Louis to Mobile, 644 miles, 
to New Orleans, via this route, 705 miles. (For Mobile see page 231.) 



S38 G HIDE TO SO UTHEA S TERN S TA TES. 

Route 30. - Illinois Central Railroad, Chicago and 
St. Louis to ]N^ew Orleans. 

The lines of the Illinois Central Railroad from Chicago, the North- 
west, and St. Louis, concentrate into one at Cairo, which proceeds 
south through Western Kentucky and Tennessee and Central Missis- 
sippi. Fulton, Ky., is the place of change for Memphis over the 
Chesapeake, Ohio & Southwestern Rd. At Afartm, Tenn., the next 
stop, change for the Nashville, Chattanooga & St. Louis Ry. to 
Nashville and southward by Route 19. At Milan, the Louisville & 
Nashville is crossed; and at Jackson, Tenn., historic ground is 
entered, for this was the scene of severe cavalry raiding during the 
Civil War, and became the hea'dquarters and base of operations of 
the Union Army under Halleck and Grant which paused here so long 
and fruitlessly in 1862. Jackson is now an enterprising town of over 
10,000 people (Depot, special rates; Armour, special rates; New 
Arlington, $2.50; Pickwick, $2; Robinson, $2), where the Mobile 
& Ohio Railroad intersects north and south with the Tennessee 
Midland Railway west to Memphis and east to Lexington and 
Perryville on the Tennessee River. It is the market town of a large 
and fertile region, and does considerable manufacturing. Here is 
the West Tennessee College and a large, girls' academy. At Medon, 
eleven miles south of Jackson, a sharp engagement between the 
Union bridge-guard and guerrillas occurred on September i, 1862, 
and the same day another engagement, a few miles west, also resulted 
in the discomfiture of these irregular cavalrymen, who were the 
curse of that region, and in unusual loss to them. Bolivar, on the 
Hatchie River and the county seat of Hardeman (pop., 1,200; Acton, 
$2; Bolivar, $2), was the scene, just before August 30th, of an attack 
by a strong Confederate force which was driven away with severe 
loss; all these fights were incidents in a Confederate movement on 
Jackson thus frustrated. Eighteen miles below Bolivar is Grand 
Junction, the crossing of the Memphis & Charleston Rd. (Route 20) 
where fighting occurred, and General Sherman and his staff once 
came very near being captured, as also did Grant, not far away, a few 
months earlier. Nothing could have been bolder, more rapid and 
courageous than the behavior of the Southern cavalry, regular and 
irregular, in that part of the country during the whole of the Civil 
War. That was Forrest's especial field of operations; and had he not 
stained his reputation with the massacre of Fort Pillow, he would 



ALABAMA AND THE GULF COAST. 2B9 

have been regarded as one of the greatest, as he was one of the most 
dashing and skillful, of the Confederate leaders. Twenty-five miles 
below Grand Junction the line reaches Holly Springs, Miss, (pop., 
2,500; Illinois Central Depot House, I3; Waverly, $2.50; Holly 
Springs, $2), at the crossing of the Kansas City, Memphis & Bir- 
mingham Railroad from Memphis to Birmingham, Ala. 

This town was occupied by the Confederate General Price, in the 
summer of 1862, with an army that caused Grant much uneasiness; 
and it was from here that Price moved in September to join with 
Van Dorn in the attack upon luka Springs and Corinth (p. 97), which 
proved so great a failure for him. Holly Springs remained as the 
Confederate headquarters, however, under command of Pemberton, 
until, early in November, Grant was sufficiently reinforced to assume 
the offensive. By the middle of the month he had taken possession 
of the town without much opposition, Pemberton having retreated 
to fortifications on the south side of the Tallahatchie near Abbeville, 
a railway station eighteen miles below. Here he was flanked and 
again retreated down the road and was followed by the Union men 
as far as Oxford. This town (pop. , i ,800; M'Kee, I2 ; Hotel Anderson, 
%'!) is the capital of Lafayette County and contains the University of 
Mississippi, one of the most flourishing colleges in the South and 
especially notable for its astronomical work. It occupies a hilltop 
450 feet above sea level. 

These movements were a part of Grant's intended campaign 
against Vicksburg, co-operative with a force under Sherman 
and Porter, which were descending the Mississippi River to attack 
that stronghold, and if possible open the river to the sea. Mean- 
while the Confederate General Van Dorn, made a dash at Grant's 
line of communications (this railroad was then called the Mississippi 
Central), and was able to destroy it in places, and to capture wholly 
the garrison, and destroy an immense quantity of stores gathered at 
Holly Springs. " The capture," Grant records, "was a disgraceful 
one to the officer commanding, but not to the troops under him." 
Grant then began to live off the country, swept the whole neighbor- 
hood clean of food and forage, sent cavalry to drive Van Dorn 
away and restore the railway. He was, however, compelled by 
orders from Washington to diminish his forces, until they were too 
few for his purpose; he also learned that Pemberton had taken the 
bulk, of his force to Vicksburg, which Sherman was unable to reach 
by river owing partly to this fact, and partly to the tremendous 
difficulties met with in the swamps north of that city^, and that 
consequently he would better abandon this advanced position, which 
he did in January, 1863, while the river expedition returned to 
Memphis. Grant tore up all the railroad from Oxford north to Holly 



240 G UIDE TO SO U THE A S TERN S TA TE S. 

Springs or beyond. There were no more serious operations in this 
part of the State, excepting Grierson's raid (p. 236), until the latter 
part of 1864; for Grant's advance upon Vicksburg, which immedi- 
ately ensued, was made by way of the Mississippi, to landings 
above and below that city, where he joined his forces in a cordon 
about it and entered upon a siege which ended in its surrender on 
July 4th. 

The Illinois Central Line below Oxford trends slightly westward, 
through a hilly, fertile, and beautiful region, past Coffeeville to 
Grenada, on the high banks of the Yalabusha River. Grenada 
(pop., 25,000, Chamberlin, $2; Paso House, $2) is an important market 
town at the intersection of the main line with another line from 
Memphis (100 m. long), which comes straight south through Her- 
nando, Senatobia, Sardis, etc., carrying sleeping-cars between 
Kansas City and New Orleans, via Memphis and Grenada. The 
next station of note southward is Winona, where the Southern 
Ry. (p. 132) crosses, below which the road soon enters the valley of 
the Big Black, and descends that river to Durant, where a branch 
leads west to the Yazoo Valley, at Tchula. Just below Durant the 
branch from Aberdeen, in the eastern part of the State (p. 237), 
comes in via Starkville, Chester, and Kosciusko. The Big Black is 
Grossed and left behind at Way's Bluff, and the road turns south- 
ward through Canton to the capital of the State. 

Jackson (pop., 7,000; Edwards, $3; Lawrence, $2.50; Spengler, 
I2.50) w^as the abode of the aristocracy of this planter's common- 
wealth before the Civil War, and one of the most enthusiastic 
supporters of the secession idea. It never dreamed that it would 
suffer as it was compelled to. When Grant landed his armies 
above and below Vicksburg, and had nearly driven Pemberton's 
army to take refuge behind their entrenchments, he found himself 
compelled to deal with a new enemy. Joseph E. Johnston had 
brought a large Confederate army to the relief of the city, and was 
at Jackson ready to attack Grant in the rear. Facing both ways, 
the Union commander made haste to begin the contest. He won 
the preliminary battles west of the city, and pushing on (May 13, 
1863), fought a severe engagement in the outskirts of the city, 
ending in the route of the Confederates. The Union troops then 
entered the city, destroyed factories of clothing and arms, took pos- 
session of abandoned stores, and then left it to return to the attack 
upon Vicksburg. That city was invested, and in a few weeks 
reduced to helplessness and surrender. Grant then took his army 



ALABAMA AND THE GULF GO A ST. 241 

north, but left Sherman with a large force to pursue Johnston, who 
still menaced him, having taken possession of Jackson and fortified 
it a second time. Cannonading, assaults, and sorties went on, with 
frightful loss of life, until July 17th (1863), when the Confederates 
withdrew across Pearl River. Says Lossing: 

" Sherman did not pursue far, his object being to drive Johnston 
awa}^ and make Vicksburg secure. For this purpose he broke up 
the railways for many miles, and destroyed everything in Jackson 
that might be useful to the Confederates, and the soldiers shame- 
fully sacked and plundered the city. ... It was one of the most 
shameful exhibitions of barbarism of which the Union soldiers were 
occasionally guilty, and soiled with an indelible stain the character 
of the National army." 

Before the war, Jackson was one of the most beautiful of Southern 
cities. It has not had time to recover yet, but has some fine streets 
and residences. The Governor s Mansion is a stately home, and 
the pride of the town. The State House is dilapidated. Within 
recent years there has begun here the manufacture of cotton goods 
on a large scale,. the Wesson factory, in particular, being one of the 
foremost in the whole country. 

From Jackson South this line takes a straight southerly course, 
soon leaving the banks of Pearl River for the firmer ridgelands that 
part the rivulets flowing into the Pearl from those coursing v/est- 
ward into the tributaries of the Mississippi. Hazlehurst, Brook- 
haven, and Magnolia are the only stations of any importance. 
Louisiana is entered at Osyka, and Tangipahoa County is traversed 
to Lake Ponchartrain. The road then skirts its southern shores and 
enters New Orleans ' ' over one of the worst prairies treniblatites 
that ever defied an engineer," and passes through the dreariest 
swamp possible, along the track of the old Bonnet Cave crevasse, to 
the station at the corner of Clio and Magnolia streets, about a mile 
and three-quarters from the center of the city, on Canal Street. 

The distance from Chicago to New Orleans by this line, is 912 
miles; from St. Louis, 69S miles; from Memphis, 394 miles. 

Koute 31.— Yazoo Route. 

This is the route of the Yazoo & Mississippi Valley Rd. from 
Memphis to New Orleans, along the eastern bank of the Mississippi 
River. It runs sleeping-cars between Memphis and New Orleans, 
and Vicksburg and New Orleans. Its branches diverge so as to 



242 GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN STATES. 

obtain the business of all the immense cotton -producing region 
between the Yazoo and Mississippi rivers, and furnish railway 
communications to every important town and river landing. At 
Huntington it connects by ferry with the Arkansas system of 
railroads, converging at Arkansas City, and at Greenville with 
the Southern Railway west to Columbus, Birmingham, and 
Atlanta. The various branches converge at Rolling Fork, in 
Sharkey County, into a single line southward to Vicksburg, and 
there connect with the through line east, via Jackson, Meridian, 
Montgomery, etc. South of Vicksburg the road passes over the 
hard fought fields (1863) along the Big Black River and about Port 
Gibson, crosses at Harriston, a line from Jackson and Natchez 
(28 m. southwest), and then proceeds straight south inland to 
Baton Rouge, the capital of Louisiana. Between here and New 
Orleans are vast sugar plantations, and the most typical scenery of 
the lower river country, this being an old, rich, and densely-populated 
plantation-region, having few settlements large enough to be called 
towns. The station in New Orleans is at the corner of Poydras and 
Magnolia streets. The distance from Memphis to New Orleans is 
455 miles. 

Route 32.— Kansas City and Memphis to Florida. 

This is the sleeping-car route from Kansas City to Florida (Jack- 
sonville and Tampa), via Memphis, Birmingham, Montgomery, and 
the Plant System, which has been elsewhere described in detail as 
its parts came under notice. 



INDEX. 



I'AGE 

A DAIRSVILLE 117 

-^^ Aiken 47 

Alabama River, The 230 

Albany, Fla 51 

Altamonte Springs 188 

Amelia Island 28, 29, 30 

Americus 21 

Anniston 129 

Appomattox 78 

Archer 212 

Ashley Hill... 10 _ 

Ashville 62 

Astor z 147 

Atlanta 119-121 

Atlanta Campaign, Sherman's.. 115-1 19 
Augusta 47» 48 



175. 



BARTOW 
Basic City 

Battery Park Hotel 

Bay Biscayne 

Bay St. Louis.. 

Beaufort, N. C 

Beaufort, S. C 

Beauvoir, Jefferson Davis' Estate 

Belair, Fla 

Berea 

Berry ville , 

Big Levees, The 

Big Shanty 

Biloxi 234 

Biltmore 

Birmingham 222 

Bloody Marsh . . 

Blount .Springs 

Blowing Rock Springs 

Blue Springs 

Bolivar 

Booneville 

Bowden Lithia Springs 

Bristol 

Brunsw^ick 

Buena Vista 

Buffalo Lithia Springs 

Buncombe County, N. C. 

Burr, Aaron 

Butler's Island 



192 

74 

63 

184 

236 

38 

50 

235 

150 

91 

71 

75 

117 

235 

63 

223 

25 

229 

61 

149 

238 

236 

126 

80 

23 

76 

58 

62 

26 

26 



pALOOSAHATCHEE 

^ Camden.. 

Canaveral, Cape 

Cannon's Point 26 



RIVER.. 194 
46 



Carnegie, Andrew 28 

Cartersville u^ 

Cascade (Pylant) Springs 94 

Castle Pinckney 10 

Catawba River 60 

Catoosa Springs "''" n^ 

Cedar Keys, Fla 211, 212, 213 

Chamberlain's Hotel 32 

Charleston 10-14 

Charleston Harbor .8-10 

Charlotte 66 

Charlotte Harbor 193, 194 

Charlottesville 56 

Chattahoochee River.. 219 

Chattanooga 100- 103 

Chattanooga, Campaign of 1863.106-110 

Chesapeake & Ohio R. R 32 

Chickamauga Park no, m, 112 

Chrisfield 37 

Citronelle 237 

City Gate, St. Augustine 160 

City Point, Fla 178 

City Point, Va 35 

Civil War in the West, Sketch of .86-91 

Clay Spring 188 

Clearwater Harbor 202 

Clyde Steamships, The 7 

Columbia 54 

Columbus 237 

Coquina Quarries, The _ 162 

Corinth, Miss. 97, 98 

Couper Place 26 

Cowpens ..67, 68, 6q 

Crab-Tree Falls 75 

Crescent City, Fla.. 146 

Cripple Creek 79. 

Cross Keys 73 

Culpeper Court House 56 

Cumberland Church 77 

Cumberland Gap 80 

Cumberland Island 27 

Cumberland River, The... 228 

Currituck Sound 38 

a TRADE'S MONUMENT" .... 157 

-^^ " Dade, State of " 221 

Dahlonega 70 

Dalton 114-116 

Danville, Ky 93 

Danville, Va 58 

Darien 23 

Daytona 174 



(243) 



344 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Decatur 99 

De Land 147, 148 

De Soto, Hernandez ... 196 

De Soto County 193 

Dismal Swamp 77 

Drake, Francis 157, 168 

Dungeness 27, 28 

Dunmore, Lord 34 

Dunnellon 210 

Durham 42 

EAST Coast of Florida 152 
" Eastern Shore," Va. 37 

Eastman 127, 128 

Eau Gallic 179, 180 

Econlockhatchie River 187 

Elizabethto wn 81 

Enterprise 150 

Eustis 207 

Everglades, The... 185, 186, 192, 195, 206 



-pARMVILLE 

-L Fayette ville 

Fernandina 

Florence, Ala. 

Florence, S. C 

Florida, Atlantic Coast of 172, 

Florida, South 185- 

Florida Keys, The 199, 

Fort Brooke 

Fort Clinch 

Fort Fisher 

Fort Johnston 

Fort Lafayette - . . 

Fort Marion 157- 

Fort Meade 

Fort Monroe 

Fort Moultrie . I 

Fort Myers 

Fort Payne 

Fort Pierce - 

Fort Sumter 

Frederica 25, 

Front Royal ... 



72 



p AINESVILLE, Ga 70 

^ Gainesville, Fla 211, 212 

Glen Alpine Springs 61 

Goldsboro 44 

Grand Junction 238 

Green Cove Springs 142 

Greene, Gen. Nathaniel 19, 27, 68 

Greensboro 58 

Greenville 82 

" Greenway Court " 71 

Grenada 240 

Grottoes (Weyer's Caves)... 73, 74 

Grove City 195 



HAGERSTOWN 
Halifax River 

Hampton 

Hampton Roads... 

Harper's Ferry 

Healing Springs... 



70 
174 
32 
33 
71 
237 



PAGE 
Hendersonville 64 

Hermitage, The, Jackson's Home. 228 

Hickory 60 

Hillsboro River 177 

Hillsborough Bay 196, 198 

Holly Springs 239 

Homosassa 210 

Hot Springs, N. C 65, 66 

Huntsville 99 

Hutchinson's Island 182 

Hygeia Hotel, The 32 

TNDIANHEAD 36 

J- Indian River 177, 178 

Indian River Inlet 180 

Indian Springs 127 

Interlachen 210 



216 
241 
238 
-13Q 
9 
35 
26 
92 



TACKSON, ANDREW 170 

J Jackson, Miss 240 

Jackson, Tenn. 

Jacksonville , 133 

James Island 

Jamestown, Site of 

Jekyll Island 

Jellico 

Jonesboro, Ga. 

Jonesboro, Tenn 

Jupiter Inlet and River 178 



T^EMBLE,FANNY 26 

J^ Kennesaw 114, 118 

Key West 199,, 200 

Kingston 85 

Kissimmee 190, 191 

Knoxville 83, 84 

T AKE APOPKA 188 

^ Lake Butler 202 

Lake City. 214 

Lake District, The, of Florida.. 206, 207 

Lake George, Fla 147 

Lake Helen 149 

Lakeland 192 

Lake Maitland 189 

Lake Miccosukie 216 

Lake Monroe 150 

Lake Okeechobee 190, 194 

Lake Santa Fe 211 

Lake Weir 208 

Lake Worth 182, 183 

"• Land of the Sky," Western N.C..59, 62 
Lee, Gen. C. H. (Light Horse 

Harry) 28 

Lee, Gen. R. E., Statue of... 20 

Leesburg 207 

Lee's (Gen. R. E.) Mausoleum 75 

Lemon Bay 195 

Lenoir 61 

Lexington, Ky 92 

l^exington, Va 74, 75 

Liberty 78 

Live Oak 215 

Lookout Inn 105 

Lookout Mountain 103, 104, 108-110 



INDEX. 



245 



PAGE 

Loudon - - - 85 

Luray and its Caverns 72, 73 

Lynchburg 57 

MCGREGOR (the filibuster)* 29 
McPherson Barracks 121 

Macon 122, 123 

Madison County, Fla _ 216 

Magnolia Gardens 10 

Magnolia Springs 141 

Mammoth Cave, The 225 

Manassas 55 

Manatee River - 198 

Marietta 114 

Massanutten Mountain 72 

Matanzas Inlet. 167 

Mayport 16 

Medon _ 238 

"Mecklenburg Declaration," The. 67 

Melbourne 180 

Mellonville, Fla 150 

Memphis 96 

Menendez de Aviles, Pedro. 162, 166, 167 

Meridian . 223, 224, 237 

Merritt. 178 

Miami, Fla 184 

Miami River 185 

Middleton Place 15 

Milledgeville 49 

Minorcan Immigration, The 176 

Missionary Ridge no, m 

Mississippi City 235 

Mobile 231-234 

Monteagle ...» 95 

Montgomery -229, 230 

Monticello, Fla.. 216 

Monticello, Va 56 

Morganton.. 61 

Morris Island 8 

Morristown 82 

Mosquito Inlet 175 

Mount Airy .59, 69 

Mount Mitchell •... 59, 61 

Mount Pleasant 10 

Mount Vernon 36 

Murfreesboro, Battle of. 94 

Murphy 65 

Muscle Shoals 99 

NAPLES 195 
Narrows, The, Fla 180 

Nashville — ... 225 

Nashville, Battle of 225-228 

Natural Bridge, Fla 218 

Natural Bridge, The 76, 77 

New Berne.. 38 

New Orleans. 224 

Newport , 21J 

Newport News 32 

New Smyrna 174, 175 

Norfolk 33 

Norfolk Navy Yard 34 



AK HILL : 177 

Ocala 208, 209 



O 



PAGE 

Ocean Springs 234 

Ocean View ( Norfolk) 33 

Ocklawaha River 145 

Ocmulgee River 127 

Oglethorpe, Governor .18, 25-27, 48, 157 

Old Point Comfort 32 

Olustee 213, 214 

Orangeburg 47 

Orange Lake 210 

Orange Park 141 

Orlando 189, 190 

Ormond 173, 174 

Oxford 239, 240 

PABLO BEACH 139 

-L Paint Rock 66 

Palatka - - - 143, 144 

Palm Beach 183 

Palmetto Monument 54 

Paolo 187 

Peace River.. 193 

Peaksof Otter.... 78 

Pensacola 52, 53 

Petersburg 43, 44 

Phosphates of Florida 208, 209 

Piedmont Chautauqua, The 126 

Piedmont Springs. 61 

Pineapple Region, The 181, 194 

" Pine Barrens " of North Carolina 41 . 

Pine Forest Inn 14 

Pinellas Peninsula 201, 202 

Plaza, The, St. Augustine. 154, 155 

Point Lookout 105 

Ponce 175 

Ponce de Leon Hotel 163, 164 

Ponce de Leon, Juan 165 

Port Orange 174 

Port Republic 73 

Port Royal 50 

Portsmouth 34 

Port Tampa 198 

Pulaski 79 

Pulaski, Count 18, 20 

Punta Gorda 193 

Punta Rassa 194 

QUINCY 218, 219 

RALEIGH, N. C. 40, 41 
Raleigh, Sir Walter 39 

Resaca 114 

Ribault, Jean 162-167 

Richmond 43 

Roan Mountain "'Cloudland").8o, 81, 82 

Roanoke 78 

Roanoke Island 39 

Rockcastle Springs 92 

Rockledge 178, 179 

Rollins College 189 

Rome 126 

OT. ANASTASIA ISLAND. .161, 162 

^ St. Augustine 153-171 

St. James City 194 



20 



246 



INDEX. 



139-151 
... 218 



- 41 

- 201 
.. 24 

•- 79 

59' 60 



186, 187 
198, 199 

-_l8-2I 



PAGE 

St. JohnsRiver - 

St. Mark's 

St. Mark's River 

St. Mary's College 

St. Petersburg, Fla 

St. Simon's Mills 

Salem _ 

Salisbury. 

Saltville 

Sandy Hook 

Sanf ord 1 50 

Sarasota Bay 

Savannah 

Savannah River 17, 18 

Sea Islands, History and Antiqui- 
ties of 24, 25 

Selma.. 131, 132 

Seminole War, The 203-206 

Sergeant Jasper, Monument to 20 

Sewanee 95 

Sharon Alum Springs 80 

Shaw University 41 

Sheffield 99 

Shenandoah River 72 

Shenandoah Valley, The 70, 71, 72 

"Sheridan's Ride " 72 

Sherman, W. T., Lieut 181 

Sherman's March to the Sea 124, 125 

Sherman's (Gen.; Operations in 

North Carolina -42, 43 

Shiloh, Battle of_... 97 

Silver Spring Run 145, 146 

Southern Pines (village) 41 

South Jacksonville.- 152 

Spartanburg 69 

Sport Along Shore South of 

Charleston 28 

Starkville 237 

Staunton 74 

Steamship Lines: 

Bay Line 35 

Brunswick & Florida Steamboat 

Co. 26 

Cromwell Line 30 

Indian River Line 177 

Mallor y 22 

Mallory Line 201 

Merchants' & Miners' Lines 30 

Mobile Lines.. 232 

Morgan Line 201 

Norfolk & Washington Line 36 

Ocean Steamship Co 17 

Old Dominion Line ---31, 35 

Virginia Navigation Co 40 

York River Line 58 

Strohecker Barium Springs 60 

Suffolk 77 



PAGE 

Sullivan's Island 8 

Suminerville 14 

Summerville Heights 48 

Suwannee River 215, 216 

q^ALLADEGA 131 

-•- Tallahassee 216, 217 

Tallapoosa Springs 129 

Tallulah Falls 69 

Tampa 196-198 

Tampa Bay 196 

Tarpon Springs 202 

TatQ|Springs 82 



SfSXK 



Tavares 207 

Taylor County, Fla 216 

Thomasville 51, 52 

Titusville 177 

Toccoa Falls 69 

Tomoka River 174 

"Truck" Garden District of North 

Carolina 39 

Tryon 64 

Tupelo 236 

Turtle Mound 177 

Tuscaloosa. 223 

Tuscumbia 98 

UNIVERSITY of Tennessee.... 83 
University of Virgmia 56, 57 



^ VIRGINIA BEACH.... 
V Volusia County, Fla. 



WAKULLA SPRING 217 
Warm Springs 127 

Warwick Hotel, The 33 

Washington and Lee College "75 

W auhatchie 220, 221 

Waycross 51 

Waynesboro 74 

Waynesville 65 

Wekiva Blue Spring 209 

Wesleyan Female College 123 

West Jupiter 182 

Westpoint, Va. 35 

White Sulphur Spring, Fla 214, 215 

White Sulphur Springs, W. Va 74 

Whitney, Eli 28 

Wilmington 45 

Winston ._ 59 

Winter Park 189 

Wyeth City 222 

Wytheville 79 

YAZOO Region 241, 242 
Yeaman's Hall 15 

Yorktown 35 



^ 



The Swannanoa 



ASHEVILLE, N. C, 




A strictly good, up-to-date hotel, at moderate rates. 
Constructed of brick, and built with a view to solid com- 
fort. The verandas and sun-parlors afford magnificent 
views of the surrounding mountain ranges. 



LOCATION is central, on the main street. 
Electric Cars pass the door 



RATES, $2.00, $2.50, and $3.00 per day. 
For weekly rates, address 



R. R. RAWLS, 

Owner and Manager. 




EVERETT HOUSE 

Fourth avenue and 
Seventeenth Street, 

ST Pa?."""" NEW YORK. 



An established hotel under new manasrement. 
Thoroughly renovated, perfect sanitation 
And all modern imprOYements. 



Visitors to New York will find "The Everett" in the 
very heart of the popular shopping district, conve- 
nient to places of amusement, and readily accessible 
from all parts of the city. 

EUROPEAN PLAN. 
WM. M. BATES. B. L. M. BATES. 



s 



EASON 1895-96. 



-^}C3{H- 



OPENED NOVEMBER 28, 1895. 



ps;3 




l_ 






# V.' ■^';-^- 






The Equal 

if not the 

Superior 

of any 

Hotel in 

Jacksonville. 



Location unsurpassed, being on the highest 
ground in Jacksonville, opposite the beautiful 
St. James Park. 



Arrangements for comfort of guests, complete, 
including electric bells, electric lights, steam 
heat in halls and public rooms, bath rooms en 
S7izle, elevator, over 700 feet of veranda _/<??' 
promenade, etc. 



J. R. CAMPBELL, 

PROPRIETOR. 



THE HOTEL 
PLACID^ 

Jacksonville, Fla. 



A NEW 
^ FIRST-CLASS HOTEL 

OPENED IN 1894 



In the center of the City, on Main Street, 
one block from Bay Street 



NEAR TO CHURCHES, POST OFFICE, BOATS, 

? 

PUBLIC OFFICES, ETC., WITH ELECTRIC 

CARS PASSING THE MAIN ENTRANCE 



Open Throughout the Year 



RATES, $2.50 per Day and Upward. 

Special Rates to Families by the Week. 



N. L. WARD, 

Proprietor, 



JACKSONVILLE'S ONLY FIREPROOF HOTEL 
HOTEL GENEVA. 



M fit ft 
Iflffiti 



CORFORS/rn AMD CEt>AI\ 5T5- 

COnPLETED IN I8SS5. /lObERN 
IMPROVEMENT?. BAT/i;? ETCO/i 
EVER/ FL00f\.CA5 ^ELECTRIC 
_ ^^ LICHT^.PA^JEMCER ELEVATOR 

ARTISTICALLY &ELEGANTLY FURNISHED 

HOTEL GENEVAis an elegant new building, constructed of iron, marble, and brick, 
and is practically fire-proof. It has all modern improvements; elevator, baths, etc., on each 
floor; electric lights and gas; electric bells (with return calls). It is centrally located, yet 
out of the noise. Only one block from the electric car lines, connecting with all parts of 
the city; two blocks from the new government building. It is furnished superbly— superior 
to any hotel in Jacksonville. All the mattresses are genuine hair on double springs, and a 
night's sleep in Hotel Geneva is a luxury appreciated by it s patrons. The heating arrange- 
ment is excellent, giving a uniform dry heat in all corridors and halls. Plumbing perfect. 
Its cuisine is all that can be desired. The Sharp Family, who have leased it for several years, 
are practical hotel people, personally superintending every department, and they invariably 
please. The Geneva porter and bus meet all trains. 

Hotel Rates:— Per day, from $-<!.50 to $4.00; weekly rates given on application. 

FRANK SHARP, Manager. 



CORDNADQ.SURr'BATHING THE YEAR ROUNO 




OPF. /sewjmyrha-fi-a 

ZQIlES DP BEACH FOR A PLAY-GffeUND I ! 

THE HEALTHIEST SPOT IN FLORIDA. 

CORONADO bas a temperature that enables its visitors to enjoy surf bathing as well 
In mid- winter as in summer. The surf -fishing can not be beaten. This village by the sea. with 
its thirty pretty cottages, all facing the ocean, is within easy reach of the Hillsboro River, 
•where the best of fishing and sailing may be had. The drives and walks through the ham- 
mock from the hotel to the river are among the most picturesque in Florida. The hotel has 
a livery and postoffice in connection. The charge by the hotel surrey is 75c. for a round-trip 
from the depot at New Smyrna — three miles away. 

The fact that nearly every guest at the hotel last winter stayed longer than first (in- 
tended, was very gratifying to the Sharp Family, as it shows their efforts to please were suc- 
cessful. There is an absence of ostentation at the Coronado. The house is comfortable 
and artistic, and the Musioales are talked of far and near. The success of the house, under 
its present management, has been phenomenal. Rates are moderate. For particulars, address 

THE CORONADO, at Coronado, or THE GENEVA, Jacksonville, Fla. 



The Hotel Arno 



LOCATED IN THE FASHIONABLE WEST END 
NEAR EXECUTIVE MANSION 



Sixteent h and I Streets, 
Washington, D. C. 




You can secure a suite of rooms, parlor, double bedroom, and pri- 
vate bath, front of l^tel, with meals for two jjersons, at $4.00 per day 
each, at THE ARNO, or front rooms from $2.50 to $3.50 per day, 
with meals. Table first-class. Call and examine for you.rself . This 
is a great reduction of our rates. 

Respectfully, 



JOHN J. RAE, 

MANAGER. 



HOTEL ARNO, 

Washington, D. C. 



CROMWELL S TEAMSHIP ^0, 



Only Passenger Line Between 
NEW YORK AND NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA, Direct. 



The Steamers of this Line leave 

NEW YORK FOR NEW ORLEANS 

from Pier 9, North River, every Saturday at 3.00 p. m., 

and from 

NEW ORLEANS FOR NEW YORK 

from foot Toulouse Street every Wednesday at 8.00 a. m. 

Unsurpassed • p assenger • y\ ccon]niodations. 

Freight taken for points in 
LOUISIANA, TEXAS, COLORADO, 

NEW and OLD MEXICO, 

ARIZONA, CALIFORNIA;- 
And points on the MISSISSIPPI and RED RIVERS. 



For Freight or Passage, apply to 

E. S. ALLEN, GENERAL AGENT, 

on TO ALFRED MOULTON &, CO., Pier 9, North River. 

313 Carondelet Street, NEW YORK 
NEW ORLEANS, LA. 




St. Charles Hotel 



WITH ALL THE 
LATEST IMPROVEMENTS 



Charleston, S. C, 



G. T. ALFORD, 

PROPRIETOR. 




LATE IMPORTANT BOOKS 



MEMOIRS or AN ARTIST, an Autobiography. 

By CHARLES GOUNOD. 

A work of extreme charm and irtterest. 

CLOTH, $1.5 



YOUNG GREER OF KENTUCKY. - 

By ELEANOR TALBOT KINKEAD. 

A story of modern Kentucky life. 



CLOTH, $1.2 



STRENGTH, a Treatise on the Development and Use of I^ascle. 

By C. A. SAMPSON. 

A simple and effective course of athletic exercises, specially suited 
for home use, by the champion " strong man " of the world, 

CLOTH, $1.0 

THE BIG BOW MYSTERY. 

By L ZANGWILL. 

A story of mystery in this popular author's best vein, with an 
intensely amusing special introduction, written by him for this, 
the American, edition. 

CLOTH, 75 CENT 

A MAN OF MARK. 

By ANTHONY HOPE. 

CLOTH. 75 CENT! 



Rand, McNally & Co., Publishers, 

CHICAGO AND NEW YORI 



Western 

Maryland 

Railroad 



From the V%/ f^GLTf^t^fl From the 

South, via WW wOlrWl II North and 

flagerstown, Md. j^ m ^ ^ E^^^' via 

From the ^^ O ^m f I O i^ ri Baltimore, 

i¥est,via i^lCll VlCtllU Md. 
Cherry Run, 
W. Va. 



THE PICTURESQUE PEN-MAR ROUTE 

Connections 

I 

VIA HAGERSTOWN FROM NORFOLK & 
WESTERN RAILROAD TO 

^ Baltimore ^ 



and FROM BALTIMORE TO 
NEW YORK, PHILADELPHIA, and BOSTON 

Enchanting Mountain ^.^ Inspiring Altitudes, 
Scenery En Route, • Historic Localities. 

THE FAI>10US SUI^I^ER RESORTS 

BLUE MOUNTAIN HOUSE, 

BUENA VISTA SPRING HOTEL, and 

MONTEREY SPRINGS HOTEL 

are located directly on the main line of the 
WESTERN MARYLAND RAILROAD. 



SHORT AND 
DIRECT LINE TO 



Gettysburg Battlefield 

Write for our descriptive publications, '■'■JaiintsC' *' Gettysburg in War a^id 
Peace^'" '■' Sites for Homes," a.n6. Summer Boarding Pamphlet. {Mentioti this 
Guide.) Address 

B. H. GRISWOLD, 

GENERAL PASSENGER AGENT. 

BALTIMORE, MD. 



ROYAL 

BLUE 

LINE 



BETWEEN 



New York 
Philadelphia 
Baltimore «"" 
Washington 



VIA 



Baltimore Sl Ohio r. r. 

Fastest, Finest, and Safest 
Trains in the World 



The trains are vestibuled from end to end 
and protected by Pullman's improved 



Anti-Telescoping Device, 

All the cars in all the trains are 



HEATED BY STEA^ and 
LIGHTED BY PINTSCH GAS. 



THROUGH Sleeping Cars 

NEW YORK TO NEW ORLEANS, 
rrrr CHATTANOOGA, MEMPHIS, 

AND BIRMINGHAM 

Complete Dining Car Service.^; 

DIRECT CONNECTION TO ALL POINTS SOUTH 
VIA WASHINGTON. 



R. B. CAMPBELL, Gen'l Manager. CHAS. 0. SCULL, Gen'l Pass'r Agt. 




OPPOSITETTHE TBEASURVl 
ifiliEiB-IACKAERiSM/TH E ,WH I TLElkiO US E. 



The Hotel par excellence of the National Capital. 



CABLE. ELECTRIC, AND HORSE CARS PASS THE DOORS 
TO ALL PARTS OF THE CITY. 



The most centrally located 
of any hotel in the city. 



AMERICAN PLAN 

$3 per Day and upwards 



STAPLES & De Witt, 

PROPRIETORS. 



JAMES L. NORRIS. 

Counselor in Patent Causes 

Solicitor of American and 
Foreign Patents 

PATENTS FOR INVENTIONS 



IN ACTIVE PRACTICE 
TWENTY-FIVE YEARS 

Corner F and Fifth Streets, 
Washington, D. C. 




NORRIS- NEW OFFICE BUILDING, 



ERECTED IN 1880. 



ESTABLISHED 1869. 



FULL INFORMATION as to cost and requirements in securing 
letters patent on inventions, caveats, trade-marks, etc., SENT 
FREE in pamphlet form on request, said pamphlet also naming, as 
references, some of my clients in every State, 

Letters Patent procured in the United States and foreign 
countries; trade-mark, label, caveat, and copyright protection secured. 
Searches made and opinions given as to the validity and infringe- 
ment of Letters Patent. 

SPECIAL REFERENCES. 

National Bank of Washington, Washington, D. C. 

National Bank of the Republic, Washington, D. C. 
Central National Bank, Washington, D. C. 

Riggs & Co., Bankers, Washington, D. C. 

DanM B. Clarke, Pres. Franklin Ins. Co., 
Washington, D. C. 



Clyde Steamship Co 



BETWEEN 

™™^ NEW YORK 

AND 

^ WILMINGTON, 
GEORGETOWN, 
CHARLESTON. 



PHILADELPHIA 

AND 

NEW YORK, 

NORFOLK, 

RICHMOND, 

ALEXANDRIA, 

WASHINGTON, jHHIlim^^ JACKSONVILLE. 

SANFORD AND INTERMEDIATE POINTS, HAYTI AND SANTO DOMINGO. 




"NEW YORK, GftftRLESTON ftND FLORlDft LINE>§," 

For CHARLESTON, S. C, the South, and Southwest. 

For JACKSONVILLE, Fla., and all Florida Points. 

Appointed sailing days from Pier 29, East River, N. Y., 
MONDAYS, WEDNESDAYS, AND FKIDAY8 AT 8.00 P. M. 

THE ONLY LINE BETWEEN 

New York and Jacksonville, Fla. 

Without change. 

UNSURPASSED PASSENGER ACCOMMODATIONS AND CUISINE, 
The Fleet is composed of the following elegant steamers: 

COMANCHE (new), ALGONQUIN, IROqUOIS, SEMINOLE, CHEROKEE, YEMASSEE. 

Through Tickets, Rates, and Bills of Lading for all points South and Southwest, via 
Charleston, and all Florida points, via Jacksonville. 

"CLYDE'S ST. JOHN'S RIVER LINE." 

(De Bary Ijine ) 

JACKSONVILLE, PALATKA, ENTERPRISE, AND SANFORD, FLA., 

And Intermediate Ijandings, 
Steamers: CITY OF JACKSONVILLE, FRED'K DE BARY, EVERGLADE, WELAKA. 

Sailing from Jacksonville dally, except Saturday, at 3.30 p.m., making close connection 
with all railroads at PALATKA, ASTOE, and SANFORD. 

Through Tickets and Bills of Lading at Lowest Rates to all interior points in Florida. 

Write the " Clyde Line" for one of their 70-page pamphlets, " Facts about Florida." It 
is replete with valuable Information for the Tourist, Merchant, or Invalid. 

For further information apply to 

M. H. CliYDE, A. T. M. A. J. COIiE, G. P. A. THEO. Q. EGER, T. M. 

WWI. p. CLYDE & CO., General Agents, 

6 Bowlinjf Green, New York. 12 South Delaware Ave., Philadelphia. 



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